The process of transplanting thuja to a new location in the fall

Thuja is an evergreen conifer. Today, it can be seen in both group and individual plantings in garden plots and parks. The plant is relatively easy to maintain and frost-resistant. Furthermore, it can be replanted in the fall, and in some cases, this procedure is even necessary.

Plant characteristics

Thuja is a perennial tree in the cypress family, reaching 10–30 m in height and having a narrow crown. The plant's leaves are scale-like and arranged in pairs. Small oval-shaped cones are located at the ends of the branches.

There are two types of wood:

• low-growing;
• tall.

Thuja can withstand severe frosts and droughts, and it's relatively easy to care for. The plant tolerates pruning and repotting well and can grow in virtually any soil. It looks very beautiful. This is probably why thujas have become popular in ornamental plantings and indoor cultivation.

Features of transplantation

Thujas are replanted for several reasons, the main one being: moving a young plant from a temporary to a permanent locationOften, seedlings are planted in a temporary location close to each other, and when they reach five years of age, they are transplanted to new permanent locations.

Another reason is moving a tree from its natural habitat or another site to a new location. Furthermore, forced replanting is sometimes necessary if the original location is unsuitable for the thuja's growth and development.

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Time and place

You can transplant the tree in the fall or spring (March, April). Gardeners disagree on whether it's better to transplant thujas in the spring or fall, as each season has its own advantages and disadvantages. Transplanting thujas in the fall carries the risk of early frost, while transplanting in the spring can be fraught with hot weather. When deciding whether to transplant thujas in the spring or fall, consider the region's climate. In northern regions, it's best to transplant in the spring, while in southern regions, it's better to transplant in the fall.

When to transplant a thuja in the fall depends on natural conditions and the weather forecast. In northern and western latitudes, this is best done in the first half of September; in southern latitudes, the procedure can be postponed until the second half of September. In any case, it's important to ensure the transplanted tree has time to strengthen and establish roots before winter sets in. When choosing a location for a thuja There are several determining factors to consider:

1. Lighting. The site should be open. In shade or partial shade, the tree may lose its decorative qualities. It's also best to avoid direct sunlight during the hottest part of the day, as this can lead to dehydration and yellowing of the foliage.
2. Thujas don't like drafts, so consider this when choosing a site. It's also best to shelter the tree from northern winds.

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Carrying out the procedure

Before planting a thuja in a new location, two preparatory steps must be completed: dig up the tree from the old site and prepare a planting hole.

The hole should be prepared 15-20 days before replanting. Its size is determined by the volume of the plant's root system. A diameter of approximately 0.7-1 m and a similar depth are usually sufficient. If the site has dense, heavy soil, it is advisable to place a drainage layer at the bottom of the hole. Additionally, add some of the prepared mixture to the hole. This mixture consists of regular garden soil, potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, a small amount of peat, river sand, humus, and crushed wood ash.

To dig up a tree from its old location, it's recommended to first dig a perimeter around it at a distance of 0.5-0.6 m from the trunk. For this procedure, you'll need a shovel with a sharp cutting edge.

If an adult tree is being prepared for transplantation, then The bayonet work should be completed within 10-12 monthsThis will give the plant time to develop new root shoots in the designated area, and even a large thuja can be removed along with the root ball. It's best to use a garden fork to lift the plant, and a wheelbarrow or cart can be used for transport. If moving it over a long distance, it's recommended to wrap the roots and root ball in cloth and tie them with rope. This will prevent damage and disintegration during transport.

Once the plant and hole are ready, the thuja should be carefully placed in the hole, being careful not to disturb the natural position of the roots. Then, fill the hole to the brim with soil, compacting it. Next, water the transplanted plant generously. The required amount of water can be determined visually; watering should be stopped when the soil no longer absorbs moisture. You can also mist the tree with a spray bottle.

Care and preparation for winter

During the first two years after repotting, thuja requires more careful care. It needs regular watering, especially on hot days. Until the roots become established, the tree should be watered at least twice a week. Rainwater is best for this purpose. If rainwater is unavailable, ordinary, settled tap water will do. In addition to watering, to prevent the soil from drying out and cracking, experts recommend loosening and mulching the area around the tree trunk with coconut coir or sawdust.

If the weather after replanting is hot and clear, arborvitaes (especially young ones) should be shaded from the south for 2-3 days. During the first two weeks, it is recommended to add root growth stimulating fertilizers when watering. Fertilizing should begin the following spring. Nitrogen fertilizers should be applied in March, and potassium fertilizers in June and July.

The main pruning of the plant should be done in the spring. All damaged and dead branches should be removed. Decorative pruning of overly long shoots can be done throughout the year. The most important step is preparing the transplanted thuja for winter. This work will consist of the following:

1. Tie the crown of the tree with a rope.
2. Cover the crown with fabric. Burlap is ideal for this purpose. Synthetic materials are not recommended, as they do not retain heat sufficiently. Polyethylene film is also unsuitable, as it not only provides no insulation but also restricts the plant's oxygen supply.
3. The material must be secured at the top with a rope. It should not be tied too tightly, as it should not completely block the air flow.
4. The tree trunk circle should be insulated with fallen leaves or spruce branches.

In spring, it's recommended to remove the cover gradually—first, expose the tree to hardening for 1–1.5 hours, then gradually increase the time. This method will not only acclimate the plant to fresh air and wind but also protect it from sudden changes in light, as spring's rays can scorch the needles.