How to Propagate Grapevines by Cutting: Precise Timing, 5 Methods, and Tips

The most popular method of propagating grapes is by growing cuttings (saplings). The task is actually simple, requires minimal effort, and even a beginner can handle it, especially with our step-by-step instructions.

Advantages

Have you ever had a neighbor grow an incredibly delicious, productive grapevine that you'd love to plant, but neither you nor the owner know the name? What do you do when you know the name, but you can't find it in your local nursery, and you're afraid to order it from catalogs? There's nothing easier than asking a friend to share a vine; it won't harm the plant in any way, and you'll save time and money!

Harvesting vine cuttings is done in the fall, right during scheduled pruning, so there's no need to throw anything away. You can grow several cuttings at once; if one proves weak, there are several more to replace it. Browse forums where winegrowers exchange cuttings or send them by mail; the prices are negligible compared to nursery cuttings.

Why is this necessary at all?

Grapes are propagated by seeds, cuttings, and layering. The first method is time-consuming and doesn't guarantee good results. Not all varieties retain their varietal characteristics when grown from seed. Burying young shoots from the bush for rooting is only possible in regions with early springs and warm summers.

Grapes can be propagated by cuttings in areas with cool climates where there is a risk of late frosts and short summers.

The grapevine reaches full maturity in the fall (during leaf fall), then the growing season ends, and the vine goes dormant for two to two and a half months. After this, the vineyard prepares for spring awakening. The prepared cuttings take root and begin growing (budding) as early as February, meaning their growing season begins much earlier.

Early germination of cuttings gives a boost to the development of grapes, and the plant forms very quickly.

By the time we plant them in open ground, our branches will be fully grown and fully prepared seedlings. By autumn, they will have time to strengthen, adapt to the new conditions, and gain strength before winter, which will ensure the grapes begin fruiting earlier.

Timing (when to start)

• Southern regions - from the end of January to mid-February.
• Moscow region and other regions of the Central Belt - from the third ten days of February until mid-March.
• North-West (including Leningrad region): during March.
• The Urals, Siberia and the Far East – from mid-March to early April.

Preparation and storage of cuttings

By late autumn, when it's time to take cuttings, the shoots have matured and absorbed all the nutrients needed for the best results. The vines are taken from the upper part of the crown of a strong, healthy bush that produces a good harvest. Sharp garden tools are prepared for the job; they must be cleaned and disinfected. A good specimen looks like this:

• the bark is greenish-brown without spots, rot and cracks, the cut is light green;
• the stem is straight without any clearly defined nodes, about 8 mm thick with 4–8 buds;
• The optimal length is from 20 to 35 centimeters.

Before sending to storing a twig Separate the stems into separate varieties to avoid confusion later. Tie several stems together with rope or a rubber band. The variety name can be written directly on the stems with a marker or felt-tip pen (to avoid damaging the bark), but it's better to mark them on scraps of paper and attach tags to each bundle. Storage methods:

• outdoors in the ground (in deep holes) is a good method, however, germination takes place in February, and the soil during this period is not particularly amenable to digging;
• In a basement or on a loggia (15–19 degrees Celsius) – bundles are placed in containers with moistened sand or sawdust. The vines can be stored whole, and cuttings can be made before germination. Before storing, the branches are generously sprayed with 2% ferrous sulfate and thoroughly dried.
• In the refrigerator (0–6°C) – wrap the bunches in a damp cloth and place them in a paper or plastic bag with small holes. Once a week, flip the bags, check the moisture content, and discard any moldy stems.

To prevent cuttings from drying out during storage, experienced gardeners recommend using the paraffin method. Paraffin from a regular candle is melted in a metal bowl on the stove, and a small amount of garden pitch is added for flexibility. Cool the mixture to 75 degrees Celsius (165 degrees Fahrenheit) and the tips of the cuttings are dipped into it, preferably including the top bud.

How to prepare and germinate cuttings

To accurately calculate the start date for preparing rooting material, use the same timeframe as when the grapes are planted in their permanent location. Planting occurs after the last frost has passed. Rooting typically takes 20 days, so storing over winter and germinating in spring is the best option. Some varieties take about 6 weeks to root. How to prepare the material:

• from the first half of February, the cuttings are taken out of storage, and all spoiled and dried specimens are thrown out;
• The cut branches are dipped whole into melted water and left for 48 hours. The liquid is refreshed once a day;
• The next step is disinfection. The cuttings are placed in a three-percent copper sulfate solution for a few seconds;
• Soak the ends in Kornevin for one day (prepare the solution according to the instructions). You can mix one part aloe juice with two parts water;
• No more than three buds are left on each branch. The top cut (even) is made approximately one and a half centimeters above the node, and the bottom cut is made diagonally under the node (toward the bud).

Warmth and moisture are all cuttings need for successful germination. Typically, the buds open first, followed by root growth. We prefer the opposite, so we need to create a warmer environment around the tips of the shoots. Experienced gardeners have a variety of germination methods, but the most popular remain rooting and soaking in water.

Germination in water

During the process, carefully monitor the water temperature; don't let it get above 26 degrees Celsius, as this can cause rot. The windowsill may be cold, and the shoots will germinate slowly under these conditions. Place a sheet of foam under the container. It's best to have a central heating radiator near the windowsill; if not, you can use an electric heater. Here's how and what to do step by step:

• the lower bud is cut off, then the cuttings are placed in glasses or jars;
• pour in about three centimeters of water, then add more to the previous level;
• the container with cuttings is placed on a warm, well-lit windowsill; if there is not enough natural light, lamps are installed;
• Replace the old water with fresh water every three days. If the water becomes cloudy faster, refresh it daily.

The bottom of the container can be lined with a three-centimeter layer of cotton wool and covered with gauze to prevent the cuttings from rooting directly into the cotton wool. The layered "cushion" is generously moistened so that the water doesn't cover the cotton wool, but the material remains damp. Buds will emerge in 9-15 days, and roots will emerge in another 5-7 days. Once they reach 3 mm, they can be grown as seedlings.

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In the substrate

In other words, kilchevation (a process known as kilchevanie) involves increasing the temperature at the tips of the cuttings, which promotes rapid root formation. Experienced winegrowers construct sophisticated electrical devices, but a beginner might find it easier to make a kilchevator from a plastic bottle. The device is very simple and requires no special skills:

• the neck of a plastic bottle is cut off;
• several drainage holes are made at the bottom and a two-centimeter layer of drainage material is laid;
• a mixture of soil, sand and rotted sawdust scalded with boiling water (1:1:1) is poured into the bottle;
• the cutting is placed in the ground at a slight angle so that the eye remaining on the surface looks straight up;
• a kind of greenhouse is built over the stem (a plastic bag or a plastic cup), and it is placed in a place where the temperature does not fall below 20 degrees and does not rise above 26;
• the soil should always be kept moderately moist, watering should be done carefully, it is better to add water to the stand;
• As soon as a shoot appears, the cup is removed, first for 15–20 minutes and the time is gradually increased.

In cups or pots

Containers can be made of plastic or thick cardboard; clay or ceramic containers are best avoided. Cardboard is preferable, as rooted cuttings won't need to be removed from the containers when planting; the cardboard will decompose in the soil over time. There are two methods: the first is no different from growing in bottles (with potting soil), while the second is more complex:

• several small holes are made in the bottom and a small layer of a mixture of soil and humus is poured in;
• another smaller container is placed on the layer and filled with sand;
• The cutting is placed in sand, watered, and covered with a transparent bag or plastic cup. The sand is periodically moistened.

The second method has its advantages. Its secret is that the layer of humus not only nourishes the cutting but also protects it from the cold. The decomposition of organic matter is accompanied by a rise in temperature, and the fertilizer helps maintain the warmth necessary for root growth. To maintain the optimal temperature, the cups are wrapped in several layers of plastic (preferably dark).

Puzenko's method (in peat tablets)

If desired, cuttings can be grown anywhere, for example, on a kitchen shelf or a cabinet (Puzenko's method). Wrap the tips of the prepared cuttings in a damp cloth, place the wrapped portion in a plastic bag, and tie it. Leave the tops exposed, and turn them toward the light when placing them on a cabinet. After 15-20 days, when the roots have grown, transplant the cuttings into the soil.

The strongest roots are obtained by planting cuttings in peat tablets. The substrate doesn't require frequent watering, and buds don't open, focusing on root development. The tablets are filled with water according to the instructions, the stems are planted in them, and wrapped in plastic wrap. The peat-covered branches are placed on a cabinet with the tips facing a window or lamp. Rooting takes about 20 days, after which the cuttings, along with the "pot" (without the plastic wrap), are transplanted into the soil.

Rooting in a hole or in the ground

This method is only suitable for southern regions; frost-resistant varieties should be selected. In the spring, before the grapevines begin to grow, cut a vine slightly longer than half a meter. Form it into a ring (with several twists), tie it with wire, and plant it in a deep hole. Fill the hole with soil until no more than two buds remain on top. By late fall, the branch will be well rooted and will produce its first berries the following season.

Plant cuttings Rootless plants can be transplanted into open ground in early summer. Choose a sunny, elevated location, loosen the soil, and add humus and fine-grained vermiculite. Short plants should be planted at a right angle, while long plants (over 30 centimeters) should be planted at a slight slope. The top layer of soil should always be slightly moist, but avoid waterlogging. Survival rates with this method are low, so plant several cuttings at once.

Growing plants at home after rooting

Cuttings that have already developed roots are immediately transplanted into containers with soil, where they will grow until spring planting. The containers should hold between 500 ml and a liter, or slightly more. Holes should be made in the bottom and a drainage layer should be added. The soil mixture can be made from turf, sand, and a mixture of sawdust, shredded dry leaves, and organic matter (1:2:1). Some winegrowers use regular garden soil.

When planting, be careful not to damage the roots. After transplanting, water the cuttings generously, and pinch the tips of the shoots slightly. Place the seedling containers on windowsills and water them periodically. As soon as the weather warms up, begin hardening them off. If the house is warm, mist them once a week; if it's cold, mist them every 15-20 days. Plastic bottles can be used as containers. Learn how to transplant properly in the video.

How to tell if cuttings are ready to be planted in the ground

When sprouting in water or using the Puzenko method, it's immediately clear whether the seedlings have rooted. If the roots have grown to 2 or 3 mm, the seedling will definitely survive further cultivation. If the roots are not visible when rooting in soil or a substrate, gently tug the cutting; if resistance is felt, the roots have developed. Usually, after rooting, the buds open and fairly large leaves appear. Planting in open ground should take place when the weather is consistently warm (at least 19 degrees Celsius).

Reviews

Anatoly

We don't grow anything in store-bought soil and don't recommend it to anyone else. Make your own seedling mixes. While rooting, avoid moving cuttings from one location to another and avoid drafts indoors. Hardening off grapes before planting is essential; a sudden change in environment can kill the seedling. I cut the cuttings in the fall, store them on a glassed-in balcony, and prepare for germination and the germination process itself at the end of January.

Margarita

I borrowed a grapevine from my neighbors and kept it in the refrigerator. When it came time to root, I prepared the cuttings but didn't soak them in growth stimulant, so the roots never emerged. The following year, when preparing the cuttings, I soaked them in a nutrient solution (1/4 teaspoon of honey per liter of water) for 24 hours. Three weeks after planting them in peat pellets, roots appeared. This spring, I planted two of the vines in the garden, and now I'm planning to cover them for the winter.