Building a pond at your dacha with your own hands

A pond is the jewel of any garden. It beautifies the recreation area, pleases the eye, and brings tranquility. You can hire a landscape designer to build one, or you can build it yourself. Let's figure out together the best way to build a pond yourself.

Classification of artificial reservoirs

Based on size and purpose, all ponds can be divided into four types:

• Miniature ponds. These ponds serve as decorative elements in landscape design and are easily made from readily available materials: bathtubs, basins, and tires.
• A decorative pond. Typically, this is a beautiful body of water decorated with aquatic plants. A recreation area is built around it on the property;
• A pond. It serves both decorative and utilitarian purposes and is used for raising and breeding fish on the property. The pond's depth is 1.5-2 meters;
• A pool. Used for swimming. The size and shape of the pool depend only on the gardener's imagination and budget.

Choosing a location for a pond

Before construction begins, it's necessary to select a location for the pond. When choosing a site for the future pond, consider the following:

1. The pond should fit organically into the surrounding landscape.
2. The pond should be located away from the crowns of tall trees, because powerful tree roots can damage the bottom of the pond, and leaves that fall into the water pollute the water.
3. Ideally, the pond should be located in a location where it will receive light partial shade for most of the day. Direct sunlight not only evaporates water but also promotes algae growth and water deterioration.
4. There should be sufficient space around the pond's perimeter for a path. A lack of a path will complicate pond maintenance.
5. A pond is best located on a flat part of the plot. If it's located on a hill, it will be difficult to see. A pond located in a low-lying area may collect rainwater and meltwater, bringing pesticides and fertilizers from the field.

Determining the shape and size of the pond

The shape is chosen arbitrarily based on the tastes and preferences of the garden owners. The classic shape of a decorative pond is oval or circular, while a geometric shape is ideal for a tiled pond.

Pond sizes can vary widely, from a small basin buried in the ground to a large pond covering dozens of square meters. It all depends on the owner's desires and budget.

The depth of a pond depends on its purpose. For a decorative pond, 80-100 centimeters is sufficient, while a wintering pit for a stocked pond should be 150-170 centimeters deep. The pond bottom is often designed as wide, horizontal terraced steps. This allows for the cultivation of plants at varying depths.

Options for constructing a pond from various materials

Before digging a pond pit, it's important to decide on the material and technology used to construct the pond. This will determine the size and depth of the pit, as well as the need for a sand cushion.

Concrete pond

A pond with concrete walls is the most complex, but also the most durable design. Craftsmen have developed two versions of ponds with concrete walls.

In the first option, a small pond is created by burying a concrete ring in the ground. Next, the bottom of the ring is either filled with concrete and then waterproofed, or the bottom is simply lined with polyethylene film.

In the second option, formwork is placed on a sand bed, a reinforcement cage is tied in place, and a layer of concrete is poured. Before filling the reservoir with water, the concrete basin is coated with a waterproofing solution.

Pond from a plastic container

A wide variety of pond molds are available, with capacities ranging from 135 to 30,000 liters and depths ranging from 30 to 300 centimeters. These molds are made of polyethylene, polypropylene, or fiberglass. They are available in black, blue, green, gray, and burgundy. Plastic ponds come in a wide variety of shapes, including round, rectangular, irregular, and oval-shaped ponds. A pond made from a plastic container can last 30 years or more.

To install a pond from a plastic mold, dig a pit to fit the container, add a sand cushion, carefully place the mold in the pit, and level the top. The gap between the soil and the mold is filled with dry sand. Fill the pond 1/3 full with water, wait a few days for the container to compact the soil beneath, and only then fill it to the top with water.

Pond made of PVC film

A pond made from regular garden liner is the most cost-effective solution. It can be built in just a couple of days. A liner base allows for the creation of a pond of virtually any size and shape. The liner is used in its maximum thickness, and geotextile, reinforced film, or an old banner are used as a base under the main liner.

To create a PVC pond, dig a pit, carefully remove all protruding roots and rocks, add a sand cushion, then lay out several layers of the liner and slowly fill it with water. The water gradually fills the pond, compacting the soil and stretching the liner. When decorating such a pond, cover the entire surface of the liner with sand, soil, or rocks, thereby protecting the base from fading in ultraviolet rays. With this care, the PVC liner will last up to 10 years.

The length of the liner is calculated using the formula: the length of the pond plus two pond depths plus 60 centimeters. The width of the liner is equal to the width of the pond plus two pond depths plus 60 centimeters.

Pond made of butyl rubber film

Butyl rubber film is much more expensive than standard garden film, but it also has a service life of up to 40 years. It is sold in rolls ranging from 3 to 15 meters wide and 0.5 to 2 mm thick. Giscolene film is certified for use in contact with food-grade water.

The butyl rubber film does not change its texture when exposed to sunlight and does not crack in frost. When the pond freezes, the film can stretch up to four times its original size, then return to its original form when temperatures rise above freezing.

The technology for constructing reservoirs from butyl rubber film is similar to the technology for constructing reservoirs from PVC film.

Pond from an old bathtub

An old bathtub is a good option for creating a micro-pond. Both acrylic and metal bathtubs are suitable for this type of pond. The bathtub pond can be built flush with the ground or slightly recessed.

To make such a pond, dig a pit slightly larger than the bathtub, and fill the bottom with crushed stone and a sand cushion. Plugs are inserted into the bathtub's drain holes, then the bathtub is carefully lowered into the pit. The space between the pit and the bathtub is filled with fine sand. The interior of the bathtub can be painted dark or simply lined with dark plastic.

Pond made from a tire

A tire pond is a fairly budget-friendly solution. The tire's diameter and width are completely unimportant—either an Oka tire or a BelAZ tire would make a perfect garden decoration. The key is to create a beautiful mini-pond.

To make a pond from a tire, do the following:

• the sidewall of the tire is cut off with a jigsaw;
• dig a hole slightly larger than the container;
• a sand cushion is poured onto the bottom of the pit;
• carefully lower the tire into the hole and fill the edges with loose sand;
• Place the film into the container, carefully straightening it out, and fill the pond with water;
• the edges of the film are fixed with earth or stones;
• Ornamental vegetation is planted around the perimeter of the reservoir.

A pond from a basin

A basin pond is a great solution for a small garden. It takes minimal time to set up, is inexpensive, and can be moved to a new location in just a couple of hours. Any basin, whether intact or leaky, plastic or metal, can be used as the base for such a pond.

To make a pond from a basin, dig a hole, bury the basin in it, and, if necessary, line the bottom of the basin with a small piece of construction plastic. The pond is filled with water and filled with artificial or live plants, and the edges of the basin are decorated with stones.

Preparation of equipment and consumables

The selection of equipment for creating and decorating a pond depends on its size, the choice of materials for the basin, the design options for the banks, and the presence of a fountain. A small pond may require:

• Marking tools. These include a tape measure, pegs, and string for outlining the area where the pit is to be dug;
• A tool for digging a pit. The type of tool depends on the size of the pond. A pit for a micropond from a basin can be dug with a garden shovel, while for a fish pond with a capacity of ten cubic meters, it's easier to use an excavator. For a medium-sized pond, a set of a bayonet and shovel will be a versatile tool.
• Equipment for moving soil. The excavated soil must be removed immediately from the construction site. Sand should also be added under medium- and large-volume bowls. For small volumes of soil, garden buckets are sufficient, but for medium volumes, a garden cart is preferable.
• level or (for large bodies of water) hydrolevel;
• A concrete mixer is required during the process of shaping the banks, as well as for making the reservoir bowl itself;
• a knife, scissors, and a rigid ruler are necessary for working with film;
• wrenches and plumbing tools are necessary for installing waterfalls and fountains;
• Screwdrivers, pliers, and side cutters are necessary for electrical work when installing pond lighting.

Materials for creating a pond bowl can be divided into three main groups:

• Rigid materials. Using a rigid structure (a basin, bathtub, tire, plastic container) as the base for a pond is the easiest and fastest way to create a pond;
• Flexible materials. Flexible materials include polyethylene and butyl rubber films. These materials are inexpensive and have a moderate lifespan. By lining the bottom with flexible film, you can create a pond of any shape, size, and depth.
• Concrete or man-made materials. A concrete bowl is the most durable, but also the most labor-intensive to make. Concrete can be purchased from a specialized company or made at home. To make concrete yourself, purchase cement, sand, and fine crushed stone; plywood or boards are needed to create the formwork; rebar and tying wire or ties are needed for the frame.

Design of an artificial pond

Even the smallest pond in a garden is an important functional element of landscape design. A pond will always add moisture to the air and change the microclimate of the area.

A miniature fountain or waterfall can liven up a pond. For pool-style ponds, the best solution is a classic fountain with a bronze, stone, or ceramic lining. For forest-themed ponds, waterfalls hidden in a rock formation will look beautiful.

As soon as a pond appears on a property, the area around it becomes a favorite corner of the garden. To achieve this, a seating area is created on the lawn nearby, complete with a table and chairs, sun loungers, a gazebo, and a barbecue.

To illuminate the recreation area in the evening, lighting is installed around the pond. There are many lighting options: lanterns mounted on poles, spotlights, floating colored lamps—it all depends on the designer's imagination.

In the pond, aquatic plants are planted either directly in the fill or in pots set on the bottom. In shallow water, broadleaf cattail, water hyacinth, and calla lily are planted. At depths of 80 centimeters or more, water lilies, water hyacinth, calamus, and yellow water lilies can be planted. Ponds edged with a wide wooden or stone frame are decorated with pots containing flowering plants.

When selecting plants for a waterfront area, consider their height and growth patterns. Low-growing plants such as saxifrage, marsh marigold, sedum, reeds, ferns, and dwarf irises are a beautiful choice near the shore. Medium-sized plants such as dwarf conifers, arborvitaes, Japanese maples, and columnar junipers are planted a little further away.

Fish swimming in the pond will be a true decoration. Both ornamental and common fish can be kept in the pond.

Ornamental fish are brightly colored and very heat-loving. For the winter, it's best to transfer them to a warm home aquarium. Ornamental pond fish include trout, goldfish, koi carp, minnows, and trout.

Common commercial fish overwinter well in artificial ponds 1.5-2 meters deep, feeding well and quickly. Garden ponds are home to carp, crucian carp, tench, and bleak.

Maintenance of an artificial pond

Natural bodies of water are large, allowing biological balance to be established and the water to purify itself without human intervention. Small ponds in garden plots require constant care and attention.

All pond maintenance work clearly varies depending on the season.

Spring work:

• Cleaning the pond of any remaining autumn debris that accumulates and begins to rot on the bottom. To do this, the pond's inhabitants are moved to a separate container, the water is pumped out, and the bottom and walls of the pond are cleaned with a brush. After cleaning the walls, the dirty water is scooped out;
• After the water has settled and warmed up, inspect the pond's vegetation. Plants that haven't survived the winter well are removed and replaced with new ones. Old plants are fertilized and replanted in larger pots.

Summer jobs:

• In summer, a small pond experiences intense evaporation, so it's important to monitor the water level daily and top up as needed. It's best to let the pond water settle beforehand;
• High temperatures and high humidity are ideal conditions for the development and reproduction of all kinds of pests. Insects typically prefer the trunks and leaves of coastal plants. The simplest and most environmentally friendly method of pest control is to wash them off with a powerful jet of water from a hose. Insects that fall into the water become food for fish, and the leaves, washed with a jet of water, are freed from dust.
• Throughout the summer season, it's important to regularly remove debris falling into the pond. For a small pond, remove debris with a net; for medium-sized ponds, use a skimmer.

 Autumn works:

• The main autumn task is protecting the pond from falling leaves. To do this, the pond is regularly cleaned, and the plants on the bank are trimmed or covered with fine-mesh netting;
• The pond plants are moved to a frost-free basement, and the fish are provided with high-calorie food to help them survive the winter.

Winter work:

• Just before the first frost, shallow ponds are completely drained. If the pond is not drained, a board is placed in the center of the pond. The freezing water will compress the soft wood without damaging the pond walls.
• Fish need a constant supply of oxygen. This is achieved by periodically drilling holes in the ice or placing a hot pan of water on the ice.

Conclusion

A Japanese proverb says, "Water is the soul of the garden." A pond in a garden is a living organism that requires constant care and attention, but at the same time, it literally breathes life into the surrounding landscape. Even the smallest pond makes a garden special, and you won't be able to imagine your garden without it.