What is a poinsettia and how to grow a Christmas star flower at home?

The poinsettia, or Christmas star, is a rare and rather capricious houseplant. Its name derives from the timing of its flowering: brightly colored flower heads emerge from the dense foliage in January, during the winter. The plant's appearance at this time will leave no one indifferent. Flower stalks do not always form, but only with proper care at home. Before purchasing the plant, it's important to clarify the growing conditions and ensure that the conditions in your space can accommodate your needs.

Description of poinsettia

Poinsettia is a beautiful flowering plant belonging to the genus Euphorbia, family Euphorbiaceae. Other names for the flower include Star of Bethlehem, Poinsettia splendid, Euphorbia pulcherrima, and Christmas Star. Some of these names are popular, derived from the peculiarities of the plant's growing cycle. The plant blooms in the lead-up to Christmas.

In the wild, it is common in mountainous areas of southern Mexico and Guatemala. The Christmas star thrives in the humid tropics of South America. It doesn't require bright light; in fact, it can suffer severely from it, causing leaf burn. Only a few varieties are native to the wild: red, yellow, and white poinsettias. The remaining varieties have been developed by breeders and are intended for indoor cultivation.

According to the description, the Christmas star is a perennial, highly ornamental plant. In nature, it is a full-grown shrub, reaching 1.5-3 meters in height. The leaves are dark green, wedge-shaped, pointed at the edges, lobed, glabrous or pubescent. The flowers are small, yellow, and inconspicuous. The bracts, resembling a translucent sheet of paper, are valuable. The beauty of the plant is revealed in December-February.

Basic recommendations for growing

With proper care, this plant will delight its owner with lush blooms from late autumn to early March. When growing, keep in mind that the plant quickly stretches, growing 30-40 cm per growing season. Therefore, to keep the poinsettia looking its best, it needs regular rejuvenation. Care is moderately difficult, but gardeners should familiarize themselves with the recommended maintenance standards.

Temperature

The poinsettia is particularly sensitive to this parameter: it does not tolerate cold or heat. During the period of active growth and flowering, temperatures should reach 20-21°C. During dormancy, the temperature should be artificially reduced to 14-16°C. The Christmas star is sensitive to drafts and should be kept away from cold window glass and open vents. Over-chilling immediately causes leaf blades to fall off, and the plant's stems become bare.

Air humidity and watering

Water the plant moderately, allowing the soil to dry out, otherwise the root system will rot. During the active growing season, moisten the top layer of soil after it dries to a depth of 1.5-3 cm. Intervals between waterings should be 2-4 days, depending on the room temperature. It's best to use settled, warm water for watering.

On hot summer days and in winter, after the central heating system is turned on, the plant requires misting. This tropical plant doesn't respond well to dry air, and the tips of its leaves may dry out.

Spraying the plant without damaging it during flowering is difficult because water should not come into contact with the leaves. A special humidifier is much more convenient. If you don't have one, some simple methods will do: simply place the pot on a tray with moistened expanded clay or cover the heating elements with a damp towel. You can also place a container of water next to the poinsettia.

Lighting

The plant requires good light, otherwise it will not bloom. The light should be diffused; scorching sun rays are harmful to the flower. It's best to place the pot on a west- or east-facing windowsill. In the south, additional shade is necessary. The plant grows successfully under artificial light sources turned on 12-16 hours a day.

Top dressing

Caring for a Christmas star at home requires periodic additions of micronutrients to the soil. This is because the substrate used for planting gradually depletes, not providing enough nutrients for proper development. During the plant's active growth period, liquid mineral fertilizers should be applied at intervals of 10-14 days. Kristalon, which can be applied with every watering, has proven effective. Cactus fertilizers are also acceptable. No additional feeding is required during the dormant period.

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Transfer

To grow the plant, choose a pot a few centimeters larger in diameter than the previous one. After repotting, leave 2-2.5 cm of soil on each side; this space is then filled with soil. Using a pot that is too large, deep, or wide will cause water stagnation. Overwatering can result in the death of the plant.

To grow this plant, you need slightly acidic, nutritious soil. It's best to use a special homemade mixture made from the following ingredients:

• turf soil – 3 parts;
• leaf mixture – 2 parts;
• peat – 1 part;
• sand – 1 part.

To enrich the soil with minerals and increase its nutritional value, use compost. Vermiculite or perlite is added to improve air permeability and regulate moisture drainage. Repotting a plant purchased in a store while still in bloom should be done after flowering has finished. Only disturb the plant immediately after purchase if you suspect damage to the root system.

The soil of a mature houseplant is changed in early spring. Old soil should be removed, taking care not to damage the root system. During repotting, the entire underground portion is inspected. Any rot is trimmed away with a sterile instrument, and the cut surfaces are sprinkled with crushed charcoal. The plant is transplanted into fresh soil, being careful not to compact it. If the soil settles after watering, you can top it up to the edge of the pot. To speed up recovery, immediately after watering, the poinsettia is sprayed with growth stimulants and adaptogens. For the first week, it can be kept in a greenhouse made of a plastic bag.

Trimming

Formative pruning is an annual procedure when growing Christmas star plants indoors. If neglected, the plant will become elongated and less attractive by the following season. Pruning should be done immediately after flowering. The branches should not exceed 15 cm in length after pruning. It's important to remember that the plant blooms only on young shoots.

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Care during the dormant period

Unlike many houseplants, poinsettias enter a dormant period in early spring, when nature awakens from its winter slumber. Immediately after flowering, the leaves and bracts begin to yellow: this signals that it's time to move this beautiful spurge to a cooler location. Fertilizing is stopped, watering is minimized, and the soil should dry out completely.

The dormant period lasts three months. The plant emerges from dormancy at the end of May. The Christmas star is returned to its permanent location and care continues as described. After its strength has recovered, the plant should begin to grow, which is why it requires nutrition. Fertilizing should be done no earlier than a month after emergence.

How to induce flowering

Getting the beautiful milkweed to bloom is challenging, but entirely possible if you provide it with the right conditions: light, temperature, and humidity. If buds still aren't forming, you can try the following tips:

• carry out radical pruning, leaving only 3-4 strong shoots;
• in August, the plant's daylight hours are reduced to 10 hours;
• watering is moderate, fertilizing is done at a dose of 0.5–0.25.

The plant should bloom in about 2-3 months, but indoors it won't be as lush as a store-bought plant. This is because greenhouse-like conditions cannot be maintained in a house or apartment. Gradually, the poinsettia will recover and adapt to its new environment.

How to Propagate a Christmas Star

Poinsettias can be propagated using apical and intermediate cuttings 10-15 cm long. The former method will accelerate rooting. Propagation material can be obtained through annual pruning. Before rooting, leave 2-3 full-length leaves on the stem.

It's best to grow the root system in soil. Rooting in water is rarely used, as the cuttings rot quickly. Before planting, soak the cutting in water for 1-2 hours to remove the sap. After this, dip the stem in Kornevin and insert it into the soil 2-3 cm deep. The cutting should begin to grow in about a month.

Problems in growing

When growing Christmas star plants at home, gardeners often encounter certain problems. Most often, this is due to failure to follow the prescribed care protocol. If conditions are adjusted accordingly, the plant's condition quickly returns to normal. Common problems include:

1. Leaf blades are falling off. This occurs at low temperatures. If the petiole turns yellow beforehand, waterlogging is possible.
2. The leaves are wilting and curling. The root system needs to be checked. Root rot due to overwatering is possible.
3. The leaf turns yellow and curls. The plant is kept at elevated temperatures and insufficient humidity.
4. Buds and flower stalks are falling off. The air is dry; the humidity needs to be increased.
5. The leaf dries out and wrinkles. This is the result of poisoning by combustion products and gases. The problem occurs if the pot is kept in the kitchen.

The risk of pest attack is minimal. This is because the milky sap is poisonous. However, individual insects can cause damage to the plant. The leaves should be regularly inspected for whiteflies, mealybugs, and spider mites. If signs of their activity are detected, treat them with systemic insecticides. The plant itself should be placed away from other crops until the problem is completely eliminated.

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With proper care, the Christmas star will surely delight you with lush, vibrant blooms during the gloomy winter months. If the plant refuses to form buds, it means some standards are not being met, and care should be adjusted. The plant's lifespan is 3-5 years, so it needs to be regularly rejuvenated by rooting the cuttings left over from annual pruning.