Propagation of chrysanthemums in autumn: cuttings method

Cuttings are one of the most effective methods for propagating garden chrysanthemums. The main advantage of this method is that it allows you to obtain planting material even from rare, large, spherical flowers taken from a bouquet. Varietal traits are preserved 100% of the time, which can't be said for seed-based plants. Learn how to properly propagate garden or bouquet chrysanthemums from cuttings at home, and how to select and propagate flowers.

Reproduction methods

All varieties of this flower are propagated in several ways: by seeds, division, layering, and cuttings. All methods are fairly simple, and with a few simple tips, even those who have never grown this flower can handle them. Hobby gardeners, for specific reasons, prefer vegetative propagation of chrysanthemums. To understand why, let's examine each method.

Propagation by seeds

If you want grow chrysanthemums If you're growing seeds from self-collected seeds, be prepared for the plant to likely not exhibit the varietal characteristics of the parent plant. Seeds purchased from a reputable company will produce varietal-like offspring, but some seeds may fail to germinate. Avoid buying seeds from open containers at spontaneous markets. How to sow seeds outdoors:

• carry out a shallow digging of the area allocated for chrysanthemums;
• Dig small holes (up to 5 cm deep) at a distance of 30 cm from each other;
• water each hole with warm water and place 3-5 seeds in it;
• Cover the seeds with soil and create a small greenhouse over the crops. You can insert a few stakes around the perimeter and stretch clear plastic over them.
• as soon as the first shoots appear, remove the cover;
• periodically loosen the soil and remove weeds;
• 10 days after the seeds have sprouted, apply the first fertilizer; gardeners use universal fertilizers such as Rainbow;
• When the seedlings grow to 8–9 cm, leave 1 or 2 of the strongest shoots in each hole, transplant the rest to another location or share the planting material with neighbors.

It's advisable to propagate only small-flowered and annual chrysanthemum varieties by seed. When sown outdoors in early spring, the bushes won't bloom until mid-autumn. To ensure buds open in the summer, planting from seedlings is recommended. This procedure is carried out from mid-February to early March. How to germinate chrysanthemum seeds at home:

• Place a drainage layer on the bottom of a wide, shallow container and fill the container with a special soil mixture for chrysanthemums;
• Spread the seeds on the soil surface in any order, but don't overdo it with the number of seeds. If the varieties are annual, lightly cover them with soil, and if they are perennial, lightly press them into the soil;
• Spray the crops with warm water from a spray bottle and cover the container with plastic or glass. Periodically remove the cover for ventilation;
• The first shoots will appear in about 10 days. Move the containers to the brightest windowsill and gradually begin hardening off the seedlings. Open the window for an hour at first, gradually increasing the time.
• Thin the seedlings when they have 3 or 4 leaves. Water them thoroughly before planting them in open ground.

Water regularly but moderately throughout all stages of seedling development. Avoid waterlogging or drying out the soil; use only warm, settled water. The room temperature for seedlings should be around 22–26°C (72–80°F) before hardening off. Fertilizing with Zircon will speed up the rooting process after transplanting. When using the fertilizer, lower the room temperature to 15–19°C (59–66°F). Transplant the seedlings to their permanent location after the last spring frost.

Propagation by dividing the bush

Chrysanthemums that have been growing in the same spot for more than three years are recommended to be replanted. Carefully dig up the entire bush, being careful not to damage the roots. Cut off old woody shoots with a sharp pruning knife or secateurs, and separate young branches from the mother plant along with their roots. If the stems have long branches, it's best to carefully trim them off. Plant each section 30–35 cm apart. This procedure is performed in late spring or the second half of August.

Propagation by layering

This method is suitable for both indoor and winter-hardy garden varieties of chrysanthemum. Dig a small, oblong hole near the mother plant; the width and depth should correspond to the size of the bush. Carefully bend the flower stems down and secure them with stakes or staples to the bottom of the hole. Cover with a layer of soil (about 25 cm), and leave the bush like this for the winter.

In spring, after the plant awakens, new, rooted shoots will emerge from the buds. Once the last frosts have passed, dig up the mother plant and separate each stem, root and all, to replant. Don't discard any shoots with weak root systems; replant them like the others. With proper care, they will quickly catch up with the stronger shoots.

Propagation by cuttings

The rarest and most valuable varieties are best propagated by cuttings. The Korean variety of this flower may have difficulty establishing itself in a new location when propagated by division. Cuttings of this variety root well, retain their species characteristics, and adapt quickly after planting. Flowers grown from green, non-woody cuttings are resistant to low temperatures and diseases, and are distinguished by their lush crowns and abundant blooms.

Gardeners divide seasonal cuttings into two types: early and late. The former are prepared in the fall and germinated in the winter (January to late February). These cuttings take root within 30 days. The latter are taken in April or May and root within 7 or 14 days. Experts recommend starting cuttings in late fall or early winter (in warmer regions), when the first frosts have set in. Specifics of autumn cuttings chrysanthemums:

• varieties with small flowers take root earlier than large-flowered ones;
• thick, fleshy shoots do not take root well;
• flowers of the same variety will bloom at the same time when rooting early and late cuttings;
• The period of cuttings has a significant impact only on the habit of the bush; taller shoots grow from early cuttings.

Some gardeners take flower cuttings in the first half of autumn, when the bushes are just beginning to bloom. This method is recommended only as an experiment, as not all flower varieties and hybrids are ready for propagation by this time. Bushes grown from cuttings can bloom as early as spring or fall, or in rare cases, the following year after planting outdoors, depending on the variety and growing conditions.

When and how to propagate cuttings

One method of propagation involves preparing a mother plant in advance, from which planting material can be obtained in the spring. Large-budded varieties produce 8 to 15 cuttings, while small-flowered chrysanthemum bushes produce 20 or 30. The second option involves repeatedly pruning non-woody stems from late spring to early fall.

Preparation and storage of the mother plant

In late fall (before the onset of sustained frost), cut back all stems from the selected mother plant, leaving stumps about 5 cm long. Ten to 15 days after pruning, dig up the plant and place it, along with the root ball, in a suitable container. Fill the exposed roots and any voids with soil or sand. Move the container to a cool, dark place.

If you move the mother plant to a greenhouse or other warm area, the first stems will appear in just a couple of weeks. If you want to keep the mother plant until spring, move it to a basement or cellar. In a city apartment, any dark place where the temperature doesn't rise above 7°C (45°F) will do. If the temperature isn't maintained, the buds will sprout prematurely.

If the chrysanthemum bush is stored in a damp basement, frequent watering is not necessary. Moderate watering is only permissible if the soil becomes too dry; overwatering will cause root rot. To begin propagating by cuttings in March, the mother plant is moved to a warm location in mid-February and watered generously. Young shoots will emerge within 5-10 days. How to take and root cuttings:

• When the shoots reach 8–10 cm, trim them back so that stumps with two pairs of leaves remain on the mother plant. This will provide a foundation for new stems to emerge.
• It is better to leave small cuttings on the bush, they are prone to rotting, choose the strongest specimens;
• The 2 lower leaves are cut off from the cut stems (the buds are left);
• cuttings are planted one by one, in pairs or in groups of 3 in separate containers with moistened soil to a depth of 1.5 to 1.8 cm;
• If a wide container is chosen for planting, the cuttings are placed at a distance of 5 cm from each other.

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If desired, the tips of the cuttings can be dipped in Kornevin, but the experience of those who have been propagating chrysanthemums for a long time shows that they root well without any additional stimulation. When propagating cuttings in the fall, do not cut the cuttings from the mother plant, but carefully separate them along with the roots. This procedure will ensure 100% survival of the cuttings.

To prevent the cuttings from drying out, create greenhouse-like conditions. Cover small pots with clear plastic cups, and cover larger containers with plastic wrap, ensuring the leaves and stems don't touch the covering material. Rooting can take 2 to 3 weeks, with buds appearing within 3 to 4 days after planting.

Cuttings of flowering chrysanthemums

This procedure can be performed throughout the growing season; the process is very similar to propagating roses, hydrangeas, and other garden flowers. The simplest option is to cut any branch and bury it in the garden, but such experiments don't always end successfully. We offer step-by-step instructions for propagating chrysanthemums by cuttings of flowering shoots in the fall:

• cut the stems into cuttings 11–16 cm long, leaving those that were closer to the root;
• cut off the 2 bottom leaves;
• Place the resulting stems in a jar or glass made of transparent glass, pour in settled water (fill the container no more than 3 cm);
• add a small amount of a preparation that stimulates root formation to the water - Kornevin, Ribav E, Heteroaxin, Kornerost or any other;
• Place the cuttings on the windowsill, slightly shade them from direct sunlight.

The cuttings will root in 30–40 days, and new shoots will begin to emerge. Leaving them in water is undesirable, as some of the planting material may die before spring, and only a few stems will develop strong roots. It's best to transplant the cuttings into separate containers with soil. Using shoots that are too thin or an opaque container will significantly prolong the rooting process.

Cover the transplanted cuttings with plastic cups or plastic bags, moistening the soil periodically. Remove the greenhouse once the stems have fully rooted and begun to grow. Once the outside temperature reaches above 5°C (41°F), you can begin hardening off the seedlings. Place them on the balcony or open a window for 15 minutes at a time, gradually increasing the time.

Propagation of bouquet chrysanthemums

Flower cuttings are usually taken in October-November, but is it possible to propagate at any other time of year if you've been given a bouquet of gorgeous chrysanthemums of a rare, incredibly beautiful variety? It's possible, as cuttings from bouquet flowers not only root well but also replicate the varietal characteristics. Of course, you can search for your favorite variety in catalogs or order seeds or seedlings. The search will take time and money, but why bother if you already have the planting material on hand?

How to choose a flower and what to do with it

If your bouquet includes stems with small shoots, use them first. Cuttings from these shoots root faster and grow well. If you don't have these flowers, use any, but prepare as many cuttings as possible to increase your chances of getting planting material. It's not necessary to cut fresh stems; in fact, it's better to wait until the flowers begin to wilt. Avoid cuttings with obvious signs of disease, as they risk not rooting and can spread to your houseplants.

All inflorescences, as well as the base of the cutting (about 4 cm), should be cut off. Remove all leaves and side branches from the remaining stem. Don't cut directly at the stem, leaving small stubs. Place the cutting in settled or boiled water, add a small amount of rooting stimulator and an activated charcoal tablet; this will kill the microorganisms that cause various putrefactive processes.

Roots will appear in about 3-4 weeks. If they haven't appeared and the cutting has begun to rot, trim the lower part of the stem down to healthy tissue, rinse the cup thoroughly, change the water, and add more activated charcoal. As soon as roots appear, the chrysanthemum should be repotted immediately into a pot with soil. Don't worry if the stem begins to dry out; this is not a sign of spoilage.

Preparing containers and soil

For newly rooted cuttings, choose small pots; they don't have to be deep, but they should be wide. In such a container, the chrysanthemum root will gradually expand into the new space, preventing excess moisture from accumulating in untouched areas of the soil, which minimizes the risk of rot or pests. Transplant the plant to a larger pot once it has grown well.

Chrysanthemums prefer loose, nutritious soil; poor, compacted, or heavy soil is unsuitable. If you can't find special chrysanthemum soil, prepare your own. Mix a store-bought all-purpose potting soil for indoor, garden, and vegetable crops with perlite, sand, and coconut fiber. Adjust the amounts of ingredients to your liking, achieving a light and loose mixture.

Planting and caring for rooted chrysanthemum

Plant the cuttings very carefully to avoid damaging the roots. Fill the prepared container halfway with soil, moisten it slightly, place the branch in the center, and gradually fill it with soil. Lightly compact the soil and water again with a small amount of water. It's best to leave the chrysanthemum alone for the first few days; cover the cutting with a jar or plastic wrap and moisten the soil periodically.

After a month, the seedlings can be fed with nitrogen fertilizer (a tablespoon of dry fertilizer per 10 liters of water); this will stimulate growth. The young plant should be placed on the brightest windowsill; in the spring, it should be shaded from direct sunlight. When the cutting takes root and begins to grow vigorously, pinch the top slightly; the plant will send out side shoots. Prune again after two months. Initially, chrysanthemums need light even in winter; after planting outdoors, the flower will adapt and begin to enter a dormant period.

Reviews

Christina

I've never used rooting stimulants for cuttings; roots grow back naturally, even in the most demanding chrysanthemum varieties. I use settled or melted water, sometimes rainwater. I've taken cuttings from old, degenerating bushes; the offspring replicate the varietal characteristics, so even a lost flower can be saved this way. Friends from northern regions (where winters are usually snowless and chrysanthemums freeze) save their flowers by preparing a mother plant and then taking cuttings.

Daria

When I was propagating a ball chrysanthemum, after rooting and replanting it in a container, buds formed on the cuttings, about a month before planting them in their permanent location. I pondered for a long time what to do with them next, and ultimately moved some of the bushes to the greenhouse, leaving the rest indoors and cutting off the blooms. The ones in the apartment became lush and large, while the flowering ones were noticeably weaker, but after being planted outdoors, they quickly caught up with the other bushes.

Propagating chrysanthemums from cuttings in the fall isn't difficult; even a novice gardener can handle this method. Carefully study our recommendations and get started. By properly organizing a flowerbed with different chrysanthemum varieties, you can create a haven of lush blooms from spring until late fall, before the ground is set for a serious frost. Who could deny themselves such a pleasure?