How to breed rabbits at home?

By choosing rabbit breeding as a supplementary income, you can obtain delicious, dietary meat and a good financial return. Raising rabbits requires neither large financial nor time investments. The end product obtained from raising rabbits can be meat (4-5 kilograms per carcass) and skins. Selling young animals and manure can also provide additional income.

Where to buy animals

Purchasing rabbits is easy. Currently, there are several places where you can buy baby rabbits:

• at the market;
• from farmers;
• on a specialized breeding farm.

Purchasing animals from the market is the most economical option for starting a rabbit farm. The downsides include the low likelihood of purebred animals, as well as the almost complete lack of vaccinations.

Purchasing a breeding animal from a farm is a preferable option. Farmers typically provide their animals with all the necessary vaccinations, but maintaining the genetic purity of a breed on a small farm is quite difficult, so it's preferable to purchase such animals only for fattening rather than for breeding.

The best option is to purchase rabbits from specialized breeding farms. The animal comes with a vaccination record and a breed certificate.

Types of breeds

Based on the type of product obtained, all breeds can be divided into three large groups:

• meat direction;
• breeds bred for fur;
• down breeds.

In addition to the above, there are universal meat-and-fur breeds of animals. Rabbits grow to a medium size and have medium-quality pelts.

Meat breeds

Rabbits are distinguished by their high fertility and rapid weight gain in young individuals. Meat rabbit breeds include:

1. Californian.
2. Butterfly.
3. Soviet Chinchilla.

Breeds for fur production

Fur-bearing rabbits are bred for their pelts. They are distinguished by their durable, thick fur. Breeds include:

1. White giant.
2. Viennese Blue Rabbit.
3. Russian ermine.

Down breeds

Downy rabbit breeds are kept for their down. Breeds include:

1. White downy rabbit.
2. Angora rabbit.
3. Arctic fox downy rabbit.

Choosing a pet

Breeding stock should be purchased after determining what products the farm will produce. For meat production, fast-growing animals are purchased; for high-quality pelts, rabbits with dense, beautiful fur are purchased; and when breeding a down farm, the quality of the animals' down is considered.

Signs of healthy specimens:

• a healthy rabbit is very active, moves actively, and eats food well;
• the ears are clean;
• the fur on the face is dry and smooth, on the back it is even and shiny;
• The front teeth are well developed and do not interfere with eating. A sick animal is usually lethargic, apathetic, eats poorly and reluctantly, has a ruffled coat, and may have parasites in its ears.

When purchasing an animal, you need to find out at what age which vaccinations were given and, if necessary, get the missing ones.

Signs of underdevelopment in animals:

• Abnormal spinal development. This condition occurs when babies are kept in very low-ceilinged, overcrowded conditions;
• curvature of the limbs. This condition occurs as a result of birth injuries during kindling or as a result of mutations from inbreeding;
• Underweight. There can be many reasons for underweight: previous illnesses, a constant lack of water in the drinking bowls, an improperly selected fattening diet, cramped cages, or insufficient milk supply from the mother rabbit;
• Genetic abnormalities. As a result of inbreeding, animals exhibit traits not typical of the breed: changes in body proportions, ears, and limbs, inconsistencies in coat density, and significant weight loss;
• Abnormalities in the color, thickness, and quality of the fur. Animals are born with a coat color that does not correspond to the breed standard. This condition occurs as a result of improper breeding practices or inbreeding.

Keeping rabbits

Currently, there are two main options for keeping animals: cage and pit.

Cage housing of rabbits

In this housing option, animals are housed in cages. Adult rabbits and does with litters are housed in individual cages, while young animals being fattened are kept in a large communal cage.

Pros:

• careful monitoring of the condition of animals, the ability to immediately respond to diseases;
• the possibility of breeding work, 100% protection from unauthorized mating of animals;
• individual cellular resettlement prevents mass death of animals from viral epidemics;
• cage placement allows for partial automation of animal maintenance and care

Disadvantages:

• Buying ready-made cages is quite expensive, and making them yourself takes a lot of time;
• Breeding rabbits requires a lot of attention from the livestock breeder;
• A lot of space is needed to accommodate the cells.

Cell requirements

The cages are constructed on a wooden frame made of 40 x 40 mm beams. To protect the animals from drafts, the back and sides are lined with 20-25 mm thick boards.

The cage floor is made of slats or mesh. Slatted floors are gentle on rabbits' paws, but they are difficult to remove manure from. Mesh floors help keep the cage clean, but prolonged exposure to them can cause the animals' paws to become crooked. In a two-story cage, a fecal collection tray is placed under the floor of the upper level.

The cage's front is made of mesh. A triangular feeder for grass or hay is hung on it. Drinking bowls and feeders for porridge or mixed feed are hung on the front mesh or placed inside the cage.

The cages are installed on stands at a height of 70-100 centimeters above ground level.

Pit housing of rabbits

To house rabbits in a pit, find a spot on the property where groundwater doesn't reach the surface and dig a hole. The standard dimensions are 2 by 2 meters, with a depth of 1.5 meters. The walls of the pit are reinforced with slate sheets to prevent fallout, and the top is covered with a canopy to protect from precipitation and predators. Once placed in the pit, the rabbits begin digging burrows in all directions, into which they will move. For easy capture, the opening of the burrow into the pit is closed with a remotely operated flap.

Animals aged 3-5 months are placed into the prepared pit.

Pros:

• the cost of constructing a pit is very low;
• a standard sized pit can comfortably accommodate up to 200 rabbits;
• female rabbits do not require special attention and assistance during birth, because the pits are as close as possible to the natural habitat of these animals;
• Feeding the entire herd at the same time saves time and effort required for animal care;
• Animals in burrows are warmer in winter frosts and cooler in summer cold. A more even temperature regime has a positive effect on the health of the animals;
• Rabbits can lick and chew the soil, getting useful minerals into their diet;
• Pit-based animal husbandry allows for a much smaller area of ​​land to be occupied for a farm;
• there are no rats in the pits that can injure small rabbits;
• rabbits reproduce without the intervention of their owners;
• Any lactating does can feed the little rabbits with milk.

Disadvantages:

• Rabbits mate uncontrollably. This leads to inbreeding and, gradually, to the degeneration of the breed;
• it is impossible to engage in breeding work;
• great difficulty in catching a particular animal in a pit;
• Rabbits in pits often fight. This leads to damage to their fur, so only meat or meat-and-fur breeds are suitable for pit housing;
• When rabbits of downy breeds are kept in a pit, their fur gets dirty;
• It is quite difficult to monitor the condition of animals in a pit, so in case of illness it is almost impossible to quarantine a sick rabbit;
• It's impossible to provide separate feeding for pregnant females or fattening young. All the pit's inhabitants are fed the same diet.

Feeding rabbits

For normal gastrointestinal function, rabbits' diets require a high fiber content. Therefore, the main components of their feed are grass, tree branches, fruits, and vegetables. Cereals, legumes, and wild grasses are used as greens. In the fall, carrot, beet, and cabbage tops can be fed from the garden until frost sets in. In winter, the animals are fed hay, brooms, vegetables, and silage.

During the cold season, carrots, beets, pumpkin, cabbage, rutabagas, turnips, and rutabaga are added to the rabbits' diet. Before feeding, the vegetables are washed, any rotten parts removed, and cut into portions.

To ensure optimal fattening, in addition to their main diet (grass, hay, or vegetables), rabbits are fed cereal or legume grains, loose or pelleted feed, bran, and oilcake. Concentrated feeds have a high energy value, so their dosage is increased during periods of intensive fattening or pregnancy.

Some pet food can be replaced with food scraps. Bread crusts, vegetable peelings, and leftovers from entrees can be used for feeding.

Specific feeding rations depend on the physiological state of the animals and the season:

• young rabbits are given 30-50 g of concentrates, 300-500 g of grass and 150-200 g of succulent feed;
• Adult animals are given 70-100 g of concentrates, 500-1200 g of grass, 150-300 g of succulent feed.

Mating rabbits

Before mating, the female is examined and her condition assessed. There is no point in allowing sick, weak, or poorly fed animals to mate, as they are unable to bear healthy offspring. To ensure successful mating, males aged 4-5 months and females aged 7-8 months are allowed to mate.

Mating occurs during the does' estrus period. It lasts on average 3-4 days, followed by a week-long break in summer and 10 days in winter. During estrus, the female's genital folds enlarge and turn pink, the doe becomes agitated, and eats poorly. Rabbits are capable of mating and producing offspring at any time of year. Typically, one male is kept for every 5-10 does. One male rabbit can impregnate two females in a single day.

For mating, the female is placed in the male's cage. While she explores and gets used to the surroundings, the mating process occurs. The end of the mating process is indicated by the male falling onto his side with a soft purr. A test mating is performed a few days later. If the female rabbit does not allow the male to approach her, she is pregnant.

Pregnancy

The pregnant doe is transferred to a larger cage and provided with additional care and attention. Throughout pregnancy, the doe is fed a varied and tasty diet. To support the development of the future kits, oilcake, meat and bone meal, and fish meal are added to the diet. In winter, vegetables or silage are essential, as well as vitamins A and D.

The gestation period lasts 28-35 days. The duration depends on the breed of rabbit (small, decorative breeds give birth sooner), the number of kittens (the more fetuses, the faster the birth), and the age of the female.

A few days before the kindling, disinfected mother cells are placed in standard cages, and soft bedding is placed in the nesting compartment of specialized mother cells.

Immediately after kindling, the nest is inspected and any dead kits are removed. Eight to nine kits are left with the mother to nurse, while the rest are transferred to a cage with other does.

For the first two weeks, the baby rabbits feed exclusively on their mother's milk, then they begin to try what is in their mother's feeding trough.

The rabbits are separated from their mother at the age of 30-40 days.

Rabbit diseases

All rabbit diseases are divided into infectious and those caused by improper management or feeding. Infectious diseases occur when animals are infected with viruses; an entire herd can become infected at once. They are very difficult to treat and often result in death. Diseases caused by improper nutrition or management affect individual animals. Treatment is futile until the underlying cause is addressed. Any animal illness should be treated by a veterinarian.

Diseases caused by improper maintenance include:

• diseases of the gastrointestinal tract;
• bruises, wounds, fractures;
• frostbite;
• sunstroke and heatstroke;
• colds.

Infectious diseases include:

• myxomatosis;
• rhinitis;
• infectious stomatitis.

Disease prevention, vaccinations

Rabbits are very susceptible to infectious diseases. That's why the best option for purchasing young animals is from specialized breeding farms. Upon purchase, a veterinarian will issue a certificate certifying the absence of infectious diseases.

After purchase, the rabbits are placed in a separate, isolated cage and kept in quarantine for three weeks; if signs of illness appear, they are shown to a veterinarian.

As practice shows, infectious diseases are easier to prevent than to cure. Therefore, it's essential to maintain cleanliness and order on the rabbit farm. Manure from the cages must be removed daily, and the cages must be disinfected twice a year with a 5% creolin solution or a 2% formalin solution. Before moving an animal to a new location, as well as before kindling, the cage must be treated with a disinfectant solution or burned with a blowtorch.

Throughout the year (especially in winter), we fight rodents that carry diseases. Rats steal food from feeders and can attack and kill young rabbits.

It is necessary to examine animals daily, paying attention to appetite, mobility, condition of the coat, nose, eyes, and genitals.

Sick rabbits become inactive and lethargic, their fur becomes dull and ruffled, their noses begin to run mucus, and their eyes water. They may also experience diarrhea, seizures, and abdominal distension. The rabbits are isolated and, if necessary, examined by a veterinarian. All equipment and cages are disinfected.

Vaccinations

Most infectious diseases affecting rabbits are incurable and are almost always fatal. Viruses are instantly transmitted to other rabbits, and a farm can be emptied within days. Vaccinations reliably protect rabbits from most infectious diseases. All animals are required to be vaccinated against myxomatosis and viral hemorrhagic disease (VHD). For each of these, either separate vaccinations are given, or a combination vaccine is used.

Vaccinations against VGBK are given:

• the first time when the baby is 6 weeks old and reaches 500 grams in weight;
• the second time, three months after the first;
• To maintain immunity, the following vaccinations are carried out every six months.

Vaccinations against myxomatosis are given:

• The first vaccination is given in the spring, when the babies are 4 weeks old;
• the second vaccination is carried out 4 weeks after the first;
• then vaccinations are carried out every six months in early spring and early autumn.

Male rabbits are vaccinated against pasteurellosis and paratyphoid fever within 24 hours of purchase. This is usually done with a combination vaccine, as two separate vaccinations with different vaccines require a two-week interval. Rabbits are vaccinated against rabies and listeriosis according to the epidemiological situation in the farm's area.

There are cases when the vaccine does not work:

• animals are infected with helminths;
• the rabbits are already infected with the disease they are vaccinated against;
• the vaccine has expired;
• the vaccine is spoiled due to violation of storage rules;
• There were delays in revaccination.

It is not allowed to vaccinate weakened or recently ill animals, as well as pregnant or lactating rabbits.

Slaughter

Rabbits are slaughtered according to the breeding plan. Meat breeds are slaughtered as needed, while fur-bearing rabbits are usually slaughtered in November after the molt has completed.

To slaughter the animals, they are lifted by the hind legs and struck sharply on the head behind the ears with a stick. The hind legs are placed in special clamps, and the eyeballs are removed to allow blood to drain better. A circular skin incision is made around the hocks of the hind legs, then the incisions are made along the inside of the hind legs, meeting at the anus. The tail vertebrae are removed, the skin is removed from the hind legs, and pulled down toward the head like a stocking. Fat and membranes are immediately separated from the skin. The front legs are cut off at the wrist joint. The skin is cut at the base of the ear cartilages, around the mouth and eyes, and finally pulled off.

Then, the skins are cleaned of any remaining fat, meat, and membranes, stretched over a special triangular drying frame, and dried indoors at a temperature of 25-35 degrees Celsius and a humidity of 30-50%. If the temperature and humidity conditions are not met, the skins can become brittle and heavily saturated with fat. The dried skins are removed from the drying frame and stored in a place inaccessible to moths and pets.

The skins intended for their own purposes are sprinkled with salt, rolled into a roll and put away for storage in the refrigerator.

After skinning, the carcass is gutted and dressed. This involves removing the internal organs, cutting off the head at the first cervical vertebra, the front legs at the carpal joint, and the hind legs at the hock. The carcass is washed in cold water, then packaged and placed in the refrigerator (if the carcass is sold chilled) or in a chest freezer.

Breeding decorative rabbits

Dwarf rabbits are popular pets. They are very intelligent, clean, and easy to train. Many breeds have been developed, including:

1. Dutch Dwarf Rabbit.
2. Angora Dwarf Rabbit.
3. Dwarf fox rabbit.
4. Angora lion.
5. Lion's head.
6. Lop-eared rabbit ram.
7. Dwarf hare.

To keep a rabbit in an apartment, install a cage measuring 80 x 80 cm. Feeding decorative rabbits is no different from feeding regular rabbits.

Mistakes of inexperienced farmers

Breeding rabbits is a complex process. These animals are very demanding in terms of living conditions, feed quality, and hygiene. Inexperienced rabbit breeders make the following mistakes:

1. A beginning farmer often downloads a fancy business plan from the internet and figures that if he buys 3, 5, or 7 does, each will produce 10 babies in the first couple of months. Immediately after the birth, he'll mate them, and within six months, he'll have a large profit from selling the young animals' meat and 100, 200, or 300 babies. While achieving this kind of profit is certainly possible, in practice, it usually turns out that one does won't let a male approach her, a second fails to give birth, and a third only produces four babies. Therefore, when starting a rabbit farm, you should be prepared for setbacks, illnesses, and a lot of work.
2. It's not uncommon for a beginning farmer to purchase animals of an uncommon breed at considerable expense, obtain marketable products (pelts, young animals), and then discover that these products are completely unpopular in the local area, and the proceeds don't compensate for the investment. Therefore, before deciding to start a rabbit breeding business, it's important to first decide where and at what price the products will be sold, evaluate the profitability, and only then decide to purchase animals of the desired breed.
3. Beginning livestock breeders pay little attention to breeding and rarely track the litter history of their does. This leads to inbreeding and the degeneration of the breed.
4. Rabbits fear dampness, drafts, and frost. Trying to save on housing for the animals results in overcrowding, injuries, and outbreaks of colds.
5. Livestock farmers often forget about vaccinating their animals or are reluctant to spend money on it. The consequences of such savings are usually disastrous: the slightest infection can lead to the death of the entire herd.

Costs and profits

Calculating the farm's profitability is easy. To get started with this business, you can purchase a dozen rabbits in mid-spring – eight females and two males. One- to two-month-old rabbits cost 300-400 rubles per animal, for a total purchase price of 3,000-4,000 rubles. After six to eight months, each rabbit will yield 3 kilograms of meat, priced at 300-350 rubles per kilo. In addition to meat, each animal can also be sold for its pelt, which sells for 20-30 rubles.

Feed costs during the spring and summer are minimal; a large amount of grass and a small amount of compound feed are added to the feeder. Over six months, the cost of the concentrates fed will be 500-600 rubles.

Therefore, with an investment of 4,000 rubles over six months of rearing, a livestock farmer will receive 30 kilograms of meat and ten hides, or, in monetary terms, a revenue of 9,200 rubles. The farm will also produce several bags of manure as a by-product.

For a dozen rabbits fattened for meat, 4-5 cages are quite enough, the cost of production of which is quite low.

As the farm develops further, males are used to inseminate female rabbits, thereby producing 60-80 small rabbits, from which 180-240 kilograms of meat can be obtained in six months.

A rabbit farm is a fairly profitable business. If you provide the animals with proper living conditions, timely vaccinations, and a plentiful and varied diet, a rabbit farm will consistently generate a high income.