
For many years, gardeners in our country have traditionally grown only fruit and vegetable crops from seeds at home, preferring to plant potatoes as tubers. Gradually, high-quality varieties degenerate, resulting in the consumption of far more planting material than is harvested.
According to experts, growing potatoes from seed not only helps avoid being scammed by unscrupulous producers of elite varieties, but also helps reduce the cost of updating your own variety base.
These include:
Advantages:
- the price of seeds of high-quality varieties is much cheaper than the tubers themselves;
- less space is required for storing planting material, which allows for the creation of optimal conditions for storage;
- the seeds do not contain late blight spores and are genetically much more resistant to climatic problems, since they are often obtained in the very area where the harvest is planned;
- The results of seasonal work in the field or garden are guaranteed to be higher than when planting tubers.
Flaws:
- Potato seedlings have a much more fragile root system than other garden crops;
- tender seedlings easily perish due to temperature changes or irregular watering;
- you will have to treat potato seedlings with preparations against black leg;
- The seedlings are very demanding of loose soil, and experts recommend growing them on moistened fine sawdust up to 3 cm in height for better root aeration.
At the same time, potato sprouts are very fragile, so transplanting them to their permanent “place of residence” will have to be done very carefully and delicately.
Growing potatoes from organic seeds
To ensure a good harvest, experts recommend growing potatoes in the same location for no more than 6-7 years. This is due not so much to soil fatigue but to the accumulation of pathogenic microflora in the tubers themselves, even those suitable for planting from previous harvests. There are two methods for growing potatoes from seeds at home: direct seedlings and seedlings.
Seedless
Suitable for southern regions, potato seeds should be purchased from a reputable specialist store. You'll also need to carefully consider the plot where the future harvest will take place—potatoes dislike shaded areas and are demanding in terms of light and day length, especially during the growing season. Without sufficient sunlight, the tubers will be too small, and the plants will grow very tall, robbing the soil of all its nutrients.
The following crops are considered the best predecessors of the “second bread”:
- peas;
- corn;
- beet;
- vegetables that are not related to nightshade crops.
After harvesting these crops, you should dig up the surface of the garden to a depth of half a spade, level the surface and sow green manure:
- reps;
- peas;
- mustard;
- barley, etc.
The seedlings can be planted in the soil 5-8 weeks after the work has been carried out.
If sowing green manure is not possible, when preparing the soil for growing potatoes from seed without transplanting, add humus, manure, or other organic matter at a rate of 0.5–1.0 bucket per 1 square meter. If such fertilizers are not available, add a complex fertilizer such as ammonium phosphate or nitroammophos to the soil at a depth of 15 cm in the spring. No more than 50 g per 1 square meter is required. The choice depends on the climate conditions specific to the potato-growing region.
Preparing seeds for sowing
Purchased seeds should be warmed in a humid environment at 40 degrees Celsius for no longer than 15 minutes. If the seeds have not been treated with micronutrients at a breeding center or were grown at home, you can soak them in a solution according to the instructions on the packaging.
Next, dry them at room temperature and place them on a damp cloth. Cover them with a piece of the same damp cloth and place the container with the potato seeds near a heat source. After 3-5 days, signs of germination will appear—the seedlings are ready for planting.
Sowing potato seeds in open ground
Sprouted potato seeds should be planted in the garden no earlier than May. The soil temperature at a depth of 15 cm should reach 14 degrees Celsius. Place 3-4 seeds per hole, moistened beforehand, up to 5 cm deep, and cover with half a centimeter of soil removed from the seeds.
As soon as the seedlings develop two true leaves, carefully water the bed and thin the plants out. Leave at least 25 cm of space between the future plants. Any excess cuttings can be planted separately in the same holes or furrows.
Seedling method of growing potatoes from seeds
If climatic conditions prevent sowing seedlings in open ground, the desired variety can be propagated in the same way as other vegetable crops. Please note the specifics of preparing seed potatoes, as the delicate seedlings will require more careful care.
Preparing the soil mixture for sowing seeds
To grow root vegetables from seeds at home, you need to prepare the soil yourself or buy a suitable mixture from the store, taking into account its air permeability and moisture capacity.
You will need:
- 2 parts of ordinary soil;
- 6 parts turf or 4 parts surface peat;
- 1 part fine river sand.
Mix everything thoroughly in a large container, disinfect with specialized chemicals—phytosporin or trichodermin are suitable—and mix with nitroammophoska at a rate of 15 g per 10 kg of potting soil. This mixture is ideal for plants susceptible to root rot and blackleg. Place the mixture in special containers at least 10 cm high with small holes in the bottom to allow excess moisture to drain.
Preparing seeds for sowing
Treat the seeds with any biostimulant to improve rooting and germinate on damp cloth in a warm place for about 5 days. Keep the top layer of the cover moist throughout this time.
Sowing and caring for seedlings
Potato seedlings should be planted at least 1.5 cm deep in pre-moistened soil and mulched with a layer of dry sand or soil. Loose soil remains essential for successfully growing potatoes from seed indoors. Therefore, water the seeds only with a spray bottle before germination to avoid clogging the soil and creating conditions conducive to rot.
Potato seedlings thrive with regular feeding with mineral complexes designed to support root development. This feeding should be repeated every 25 days. If necessary, seedlings can be carefully pricked out and planted in disposable cups.
Hardening off seedlings
To ensure potato seedlings tolerate transplanting outdoors better, place the containers in a cooler room for several hours 10 to 12 days before planting. Gradually increase the time spent in the cold until the plants are accustomed to the constant coolness by the time they are transplanted. Start with 2 hours.
Transplanting potatoes into open ground
If proper agricultural practices are followed when growing potatoes from seed, seedlings will have several true leaves by the 45th day. Once the threat of spring frost has passed—depending on the growing region and its typical climate—these plants are ready for planting in greenhouses or open ground.
The planting pattern depends on the final goal. If you want to grow large potatoes from seed in the first year, plant the seedlings 40 cm apart. If you plan to harvest seed tubers for planting the following year, plant the seedlings 25 cm apart. The depth of the holes should be sufficient to accommodate the seedlings up to the first true leaves. On average, this is about 10 cm.
If desired, you can add half a cup of well-rotted compost mixed with a few tablespoons of wood ash to the prepared holes. Mix everything into the soil in each hole. Add water. Once the excess moisture has drained, lay each seedling on its side—they are too fragile to plant vertically. Cover with soil and cover with lutrasil or spunbond to prevent freezing or overheating.
Top dressing
The best way to properly distribute mineral fertilizers is to consult with local agronomists. If this isn't possible, here's a standard schedule for applying mineral and organic fertilizers at various stages of seed-grown potato development:
Experts recommend using the new Kemira complex fertilizer for a second time. This mineral complex has a prolonged action, promoting the flow of nutrients from the above-ground portion of the potato to the tubers, improving their development. This treatment should be applied to mid-season and late potato varieties during the budding stage.
You can prepare your own nutrient mixture by excluding nitrogen. To do this, take equal parts potassium sulfate and phosphorus and dilute with water. One bucket of this solution is enough for 15-20 potato plants. Wood ash diluted with water is also suitable, but it's best to consult with local experts for details on using this type of fertilizer during the growing season – the quantity and quality of fertilizer directly depends on the soil type and climate conditions in different potato growing regions.
Protection from diseases and pests
Young potato shoots should be treated with all available pesticides against surface enemies, such as the Colorado potato beetle, aphids, and potato moths. Many types of chemicals are available for this purpose. Choose those that don't accumulate in plants and tubers.
To combat soil insects, biological preparations can be mixed with fertilizers when fertilizing.
Potato varieties for seed propagation
To ensure your efforts in growing potato seedlings are not wasted, you should choose the right planting material, taking into account the characteristics of each variety and your own preferences.
Early varieties:
- 'Assol' is a Russian variety with elongated, light-yellow tubers. It is resistant to climate change and produces high yields in all soil types.
- 'Farmer' grows well in northern regions, maintaining the qualities of elite planting material for five years. It prefers moist soil.
- "Triumph" is not particularly demanding in terms of growing conditions. It's an excellent table variety with high yields and excellent taste.
- 'Iperatritsa' is a luxurious row-cultivating variety, disease-resistant, and easy to cultivate. A special feature of this variety is that it requires watering and fertilizing during the budding period.
- "Velina" does not react to climate changes in the cultivation area, but produces an excellent harvest only with good humidity and fertilization.
- 'Milena' thrives in challenging climates and sandy soils. Regular watering is required.
Medium-sized potato varieties for growing from seeds at home:
- 'Ilona' prefers sandy loam soils and good fertilizer. Watering is only necessary when there's no rain.
- 'Ballada' is a favorite among gardeners due to its low maintenance and simple cultivation techniques. It is disease and climate resistant.
- "Krasa" loves warmth and "Nitrophoska", a high-yielding variety that does not require special care and is undemanding to soil quality and watering.
- "Revenge" is distinguished by very large potatoes, resistance to diseases and weather conditions.
- "Hybrid F1 Lada" – high yield and excellent endurance, a new, effective variety with a distinct red hue.
Late varieties:
- "Deva" is an excellent option for growing potatoes from seeds in one season; it produces a good harvest and uniform shoots.
When to collect potato seeds
All varieties, except late ones, produce clusters of berries instead of flowers on the tops. They should be picked in July, selecting the largest ones and placing them on a dry mat in a warm room. Once the berries have softened, carefully tear the outer skin and rinse the seeds in water. Then dry them on a cloth and store them in small bags, labeling each one to avoid mixing up the varieties.
Reviews
Petr Fedorovich, Rostov region:
"I planted 'Ilona' from seed two years ago. It was a bit of a hassle, of course, with the seedlings—lugging boxes to windows and radiators. I took them to the dacha and planted them. The first year, I got small potatoes, but we didn't try them—it was a shame. The following year, I used them for my main planting. It's an excellent variety, especially since I have time—I'm retired. But I kept the water in a large barrel—I was afraid to overwater the seedlings during cold start. We got a magnificent harvest from several hundred square meters, enough for me and the kids to last a whole year—up to half a bucket under each plant. And it's delicious."
Yanina Ivanovna:
"A few years ago, we switched to early potato varieties – the climate had changed, and summers had become hotter. We liked the 'Assol' variety – all the tubers were perfectly matched – even and neat. And they require minimal care."
Vitaly:
"My first successful attempt at growing commercial potatoes was the 'Ballada' variety—the seed and fertilizer costs paid for themselves within the first season. They store well in a regular cellar."

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Alexander
Plant them, it's an interesting thing, it's a pity there are so few varieties of seeds to choose from, I would like to try growing German "Adretta" and also Dutch varieties, and our potatoes are very good