Cucumber variety Herman f1: description and characteristics, reviews

Cucumbers

Herman F1 is a hybrid cucumber developed by Dutch breeders by crossing several varieties. It was added to the Russian State Register in 2001. The plant is easy to maintain and can grow successfully in greenhouses, hotbeds, and open ground. Based on its characteristics and description, it doesn't require pollination, making it easier to care for. Despite its long history, Herman continues to be a favorite among both experienced farmers and amateur gardeners. Photos of home-grown crops and positive reviews confirm this.

General characteristics

German F1 is an early-ripening variety. The plant is medium-sized. Its stems are rough and creeping. When grown on a trellis, they can reach up to 5 m in length. The leaves are medium-sized, five-lobed, matte, and dark green. Their edges are jagged and serrated. The flowers are deep yellow and exclusively female. The cucumber itself is 10-12 cm long, 3 cm in diameter, and weighs approximately 90 g. If left unharvested for a long time, the cucumber can reach 15 cm in length.

The cucumber is cylindrical, moderately tuberculate, and has medium ribbing. Its color can range from light green to dark green, depending on the amount of light in the area where it grows. Normally, it should be bright green. The spines on the cucumbers are light-colored. The flavor is pleasant, with a characteristically sweet aftertaste. Bitterness is unlikely, even if underwatered. The flesh is light green and medium firm. The cucumber has a long shelf life without yellowing. It can be transported over long distances without risk of spoilage.

Growing

Cucumbers can be grown by sowing or from seedlings. Keep in mind that seedlings do not tolerate transplanting well, which can lead to the death of some young plants. Seeds can be sown in a greenhouse in late April or early May. It is best to plant seedlings mid-May. However, these timings are approximate and may change depending on climate and weather conditions. In any case, the soil temperature should not fall below 15°C.

It's recommended to prepare seedlings 4 weeks before the planned transplanting. It's best to plant seeds in special containers or peat pellets. During the growing season, provide the seedlings with regular watering and good lighting. Before planting, harden them off for a week. To do this, place the seedlings in the containers outside. This will allow the plants to acclimate to the environment and reduce their risk of illness. However, avoid placing them in direct sunlight or drafts. Prepare the planting beds in advance. Dig the soil thoroughly and, if necessary, add humus or complex mineral fertilizer. Transplant the seedlings into the holes.

Similarly, you can sow seeds directly into the soil. They should be placed at a depth of 15-20 mm, spaced at least 25 cm apart. It's impossible to say exactly how quickly they will germinate. Experts say this timeframe depends on the quality of the soil. In fertile soil, the first shoots can appear as early as a week after planting. In dry soil, they stop growing, and in excessively wet soil, they rot.

Seeds collected from the harvest are not suitable for planting. They must be purchased from the store each time. Store-bought seeds are coated with a special coating that contains substances essential for plant growth and development. This is why they usually have a bright color, unusual for seeds. No manipulation is required before planting.

Attention!

White or beige color of purchased seeds indicates that they are counterfeit.

Further care and harvesting

It is recommended to water the plant every 2-3 days. This is best done either immediately after sunrise or shortly before sunset. The watering schedule can be adjusted depending on the weather. It is important to avoid overwatering or overdrying. Both extremes can lead not only to reduced yields but also to plant death. Watering should be done most frequently during periods of heat and drought, as well as during periods of active fruit formation and growth.

When growing cucumbers, you can use nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium fertilizers. The first application should be before flowering. Nitrogen is used during this period. It is necessary for rapid stem and leaf growth. The second application is made when fruit is actively forming. Phosphorus and potassium are used during this period. These nutrients are essential for fruit formation and growth. Fertilizer is not necessary after the first harvest.

Forming cucumber bushes isn't difficult. It's important to remove runners promptly, as they drain nutrients. To ensure strong plants, it's recommended to remove all shoots and ovaries from the axils of the first four leaves. In the next two axils, leave one ovary and pinch off the rest. In the axils of leaves 7-10, remove all shoots and leave two ovaries. This completes the formation. Pinching the tops of the bush and applying fertilizer will increase yield by at least 30%.

Disease resistance, advantages and disadvantages

German F1, like most hybrids, is more disease-resistant than standard cultivars. It's resistant to powdery mildew, cladosporiosis, and cucumber mosaic, but is vulnerable to fungal diseases. Problems arise after watering with cold water or due to unfavorable weather, when the difference between day and night temperatures is too great.

A characteristic symptom of active fungal growth is the appearance of large, rust-colored spots on the leaves. The disease often occurs during the seedling stage. In this case, brown spots appear on the root collar. If treatment is not started promptly, young plants will die within a few days. A solution of arceride or Bordeaux mixture can help eliminate the disease. In the former case, the plant should be treated once, while in the latter case, it should be treated periodically throughout the growing season. If the root collar is affected by the fungus, it should be covered with soil. This is necessary to encourage new roots to form.

Reviews

Alexandra, 38 years old

I've been growing German F1 for five years now and am completely satisfied. It has a pleasant, slightly sweet flavor. The cucumbers are small, and their seeds are also small. They're perfect for pickling. Two years ago, I bought a drip irrigation system, which has further increased the already high yield. There are so many vegetables on the bushes that I can't keep up with harvesting. There's no empty space inside, and there's no bitterness.

David, 32 years old

I've been growing German F1 cucumbers for seven years now, and they've always been a joy. I've tried planting them from seeds and from seedlings, and they've always worked. The plants are strong and grow quickly. I've noticed that the plant thrives on organic matter, so I add manure and peat moss to the soil every year. This results in a bountiful and delicious harvest, even though the soil at my garden plot is heavy and poor.

Herman F1 is an excellent choice for any gardener, regardless of their experience with plants. Reviews from farmers who have tried this variety prove that its advantages outweigh any drawbacks. Timely planting and proper care will allow you to prepare a wealth of preserves for the winter and provide the whole family with delicious, healthy vegetables.

Comments to the article: 1

Mara

Not great. Far away. And there's something questionable about the pickling.
Much worse than Biotekhnika's Restina. These produce fruit even during frosts. And they don't fall over. And in this cold summer, Restina is all we're using.
Gentlemen, try Restina, it’s a truly amazing cucumber.

Answer