Propagation of grapes in summer and autumn by various methods

Common methods of propagating grapes using cuttings and layering allow you to do the work at home without additional costs. By following the rules, it's easy to grow dessert and wine grape varieties. It's best to carry out the procedure when there's no drought and the air temperature doesn't fluctuate much during the day. Therefore, early summer and autumn.

The difference between propagating grapes by layering in summer and autumn

During the summer, the vine has a greater chance of rooting from layering. This method involves maintaining optimal soil moisture and providing additional nutrients. Thanks to the stable soil temperature, the buds quickly root.

In the autumn, it is better to use layering with perennial vines. In the autumn, it is better to carry out planting seedlings.

How to propagate grapes using cuttings

Propagation of grapesPropagation by cuttings or scions can be done in summer or fall. This is because the soil is moist during this period and the vines are strong and woody.

The cutting is a pruned vine with at least four buds for rooting. The vine should be free of tendrils and leaves. The lower part of the vine should be cut at an angle. Afterward, place it in a solution of ferrous sulfate, thereby disinfecting it from a number of infections.

Features of autumn preparation of cuttings

It's best to take cuttings before the first frost. This will ensure good planting material with optimal nutritional content. Vines can be stored in the refrigerator or cellar. Alternatively, the branches can be buried in the ground.

Tips for storing cuttings:

1. Small ligaments worth keeping in thick plastic bags or plastic bottles divided into halves.
2. Make a note on the packaging about the grape variety.
3. Keep planting material in a well-ventilated area.
4. Water 1-2 times every 48 hours.
5. Monitor the temperature to ensure it is not too hot and the buds do not form prematurely.

Propagation of grapes by green cuttings in summer

The procedure should be carried out in early June. The planting material should be prepared in the evening. Small sections of the vine should be broken off by hand. Place the resulting branches in water and cover with a damp cloth.

In the morning, cut the cuttings, leaving the tops intact. Make the cuts so that each section has two buds and two leaves. Leave 1.5 cm above the top bud of the vine. Trim the top leaf in half and remove the bottom leaf.

Planting cuttings Place the cuttings in a one-third heteroauxin solution. Store for 8-10 hours at a temperature of 18-22°C (64-72°F) in diffused light. Plant the cuttings in a deep container containing 10% fertile soil and 5 cm of sand.

Place the cuttings in moistened soil to a depth of 2-3 cm, spacing them 10 cm apart. Then cover everything with plastic or opaque glass. It's important to monitor the soil moisture. Therefore, it's recommended to mist the seedlings with a spray bottle 4-5 times a day or water the soil once a day.

You can harden off the cuttings in the 3rd or 4th week by opening the container slightly for 10-15 hours in the evening. The cuttings, complete with roots, should be planted in open ground. If the roots are sufficiently developed, the vine will grow 40-50 cm by autumn.

Methods for rooting grape cuttings

Before planting, cut the cutting with a knife. If a clear teardrop emerges from the cut, the sprout is healthy. If the liquid is cloudy or not clear at all, the planting material is unsuitable for use.

Rooting in sawdust

Sawdust from any type of wood is suitable for rooting. Place the sawdust in a container filled with 2-3 buckets of water and add boiling water. Soak until the water cools completely. Rinse the sawdust and remove any large shavings and tree bark. Then drain off all the liquid.

Next, fill plastic bags with sawdust. The thickness of the sawdust should correspond to the seedling's height, with the bag diameter being 10-12 cm. Cut the prepared cutting at an angle below the bud at the bottom and at the top, 4-5 cm above the bud, to form a ring.

Place the pruned planting material in a bag with sawdust so that the wood pulp covers the entire length of the vine. Store everything as follows:

• Place planks on the bottom of a large saucepan;
• Place bags of sawdust vertically on them;
• water the seedlings once a day with clean water;
• Once a week, fertilize with a solution containing fertilizers;
• Excess water should be removed from the container using a tube or syringe.

Rooting in soil

Good cuttings should be soaked in clean, warm water for two days. Then, add a root growth stimulating solution. Once small roots appear on the seedlings, they should be replanted.

To do this, you'll need a container with a mixture of sand, humus, and soil in equal proportions. Insert the cuttings into the moistened soil and cover each with a plastic cup. This simulates greenhouse conditions.

Rooting in water

Cuttings prepared in the fall should be removed from storage in the second half of March. Renew the lower cut and soak the vines in warm water for 24 hours. Fill a clean jar with boiled or purified water to a depth of 3-4 cm.

Place the cuttings in water, changing the water daily. To prevent the branch from rotting, rinse it under running water and carefully remove any debris. Once the cutting edge swells and becomes slightly lighter, you can increase the water level to 7-8 cm.

Add a few tablets of activated charcoal to the water. Add more liquid as the vines consume it. Once the roots reach 3 cm in length, they should be planted in soil. Otherwise, the roots will die due to oxygen deficiency.

How to layer grapes

Layering is a simple method of grape propagation. This involves rooting a shoot without separating it from the parent plant. There are several layering options, each suitable for different grape varieties:

1. The underground method (green layering) involves using a young shoot from the current year. This method is suitable for expanding bushes. It should be done in the fall after the leaves have fallen. The vine should be placed in a small hole without cutting it off from the mother plant. Three to four buds should be left on the branch, buried in the soil.
2. Perennial layering is done underground. This method is only suitable for mature, long-standing branches with several young vines that have grown this season. The branch should be placed in a trench and covered with loose soil. Several layers should be brought to the surface. Trim the shoots so that each has 3-4 buds; remove the remaining shoots. Once the seedlings have grown 20 cm, add another layer of soil on top. Water the soil regularly to maintain adequate moisture. In the fall, separate the seedlings from the mother plant and divide them into sections.
3. Hilling the head of a bush (a spring method) involves using the mother bush as a source of nutrients for future seedlings. The root system of the main plant is depleted. This method is suitable for varieties with small bushes. Layering should be done in early spring. The separated vines are pruned to a distance of 1-2 buds. After the seedlings reach 20-25 cm, they should be covered with loose soil. The soil should be kept moist to allow the roots to form. In the fall, the sprouted layers are cut back to 15 cm from the ground.
4. Short green shoots should be prepared from the beginning of summer using the underground method.
5. Air layering is suitable if there's sufficient space near the bush. The selected vine should be pulled along a wire stretched between slats, or simply along the ground. Upon contact with the soil, the branches will take root and establish themselves in their new location. This process also feeds the fruit and branches from the parent root system.
6. Kataviak, daldarama, and lugenda are performed in late autumn to rejuvenate or restore the bush. Pruning the bush impairs its healing, as the vines are already wounded. The kataviak method is best for restoring the bush.
7. Propagation by woody layering requires only one woody vine, otherwise the method is the same as with perennial vines.
8. The Chinese method is used for one-year-old vines in early spring. The young vine is pruned, leaving 8-10 buds. It is placed in a shallow trench, with any buds protruding to the surface being removed. After 15 cm of growth, the vine should be covered with additional soil. When 40 cm of growth has been reached, the soil is fertilized with organic matter. The layering is separated in late fall and divided into seedlings.

Planting seedlings in open ground

It's best to plant cuttings in the ground in the fall, when the first leaves have appeared on the vines. The procedure involves several stages:

1. On the land plot, dig a hole 40-60 cm deep.
2. Place fertilizer in the hole and fill with water.
3. Make two holes in the bottom of the hole at a distance of 20 cm.
4. Place one seedling in each hole so that the bud is directed towards the row.
5. Fill the hole with loose soil, closing the cuttings, compacting the soil a little.

Reviews from winegrowers

Maria, 59 years old, Arkhangelsk

I use cuttings. I prepare the cuttings in the summer and immediately place them in the soil. About 50% of the branches root and become suitable for planting. I use drip irrigation in my garden, so the soil moisture was maintained at an optimal level.

Oleg Petrovich, 47 years old, Rostov-on-Don

I propagate grapes by cuttings, but for renewing vines, I prefer layering, which doesn't damage the parent vine. This method guarantees the production of seedlings.

You can propagate grapes at home without any special skills. By following simple rules, you can renew your vines or increase their number using cuttings and layering.