Of all bulbous plants, daffodils are the most undemanding. They grow in the same location for several seasons. Experienced gardeners recommend digging up daffodils after the growing season and storing them until planting in the fall of 2020. This method preserves beautiful blooms and prevents bulb rot due to adverse weather conditions and damage from garden pests. After a few weeks, they are replanted.
The need to dig up daffodils
Daffodils are the most undemanding of all bulbous plants. Even novice gardeners can grow them. The underground part of the plant accumulates nutrients, which are then used for flowering the following season. Large bulbs produce the most vibrant and expressive buds. During the first year, they gain mass. Then, over the course of two years, offspring form. After another year, these develop into full-fledged bulbs capable of producing a flower stalk.
Until the offspring are separated, they share a common root system with the mother plant and share nutrients. Failure to repot slows the development of young bulbs. They produce twisted stems and small buds, and hybrid daffodils lose their parental characteristics.
Timely digging provides the following benefits:
- full accumulation of nutrients in the mother bulb;
- preservation of parental characteristics;
- more beautiful and abundant flowering;
- the possibility of culling damaged and diseased bulbs;
- the possibility of soil renewal and fertilization;
- protection from pests and infections;
- the possibility of transplanting to a new location and freeing up the flowerbed for other plants.
In regions with cold winters, where temperatures drop below -18°C, daffodils need to be dug up. after flowering is completeOtherwise, they will die in the frozen soil. Under such conditions, the bulb does not produce nutrients and does not form buds.
Digging times
Daffodils are harvested after flowering has finished. The exact timing is determined by the condition of the plant. If the bulbs are fully ripe, the leaves will turn yellow. Their tips will dry out. If the bulbs are too densely packed in the soil, the stems will begin to fall apart.
Depending on the climate of the region, daffodils are dug up:
- in the southern part of Russia in the last ten days of June;
- in the Central Belt and in the Moscow region until mid-July;
- in the Urals, Siberia and other regions with a cool climate in the first ten days of August.
Many gardeners plan their gardening according to the phases of the moon. It is believed that days when the moon is waning are favorable for digging up bulbs. Planting material stores especially well if it is harvested when the moon is passing through the zodiac constellations of Sagittarius, Aquarius, Taurus, Gemini, and Leo.
| Month | Favorable days | Unfavorable days |
| June | 6, 9-11, 17-20 | 1-5, 7, 8, 12-16, 21-30 |
| July | 7, 8, 14-18 | 1-6, 9-13, 19-31 |
| August | 4, 10-14, 17, 18 | 1-3, 5-9, 15, 16, 19-31 |
Preparation for storage
The bulbs are dug up with extreme care, being careful not to damage them. A shovel is not used for this task, as this tool can cut the planting material. Daffodils are dug up with a small garden fork, lifting them along with the root ball. Then, the outer leaves are trimmed off and any remaining soil is lightly brushed off. Any remaining roots on the bulbs are also left in place.
To prepare daffodil bulbs for further storage indoors, allow them to rest for several days. To do this, place the bulbs in a box or on a tray in a dry, well-ventilated area. To prevent the bulbs from rotting, avoid exposing them to damp conditions. Daffodils can be left outside, but if rain is expected, bring them indoors.
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Once the shells have dried slightly and are firmly attached, the bulblets are separated. This process usually begins after a week of drying. At the same time, the remaining roots are trimmed off and any soil adhering to the planting material is removed.
Sorting and storage
Dried planting material is sorted before being stored at home. First, all specimens with obvious mechanical damage are removed: those gnawed by mole crickets or wireworms, or those with rot or mold spots.
The remaining bulbs are divided into several groups by size. The planting pattern, including the distance from other plants and the depth of placement, depends on the bulb size. Seven to 10 days after digging, the daffodils are immersed in water at 45°C. This treatment prevents onion fly infestation.
To preserve the planting material until autumn, it is placed in wooden boxes with slatted bottoms and sides. The bulbs are laid out in a single layer and stored in a dry place. They are turned regularly to prevent rot. At the same time, the bulbs are inspected. If any damage, spots, or holes are found on the surface, they are removed. Any bulbs that have lost their firmness are treated in the same way. Immediately after storage, the room temperature is maintained at 24°C. After three weeks, the temperature is gradually reduced to 20°C.
Planting in the ground in autumn
After a short rest, the daffodil bulbs are replanted. The best time for this is late August or early October. At this time, the soil has not yet cooled. The plants have time to take root and establish themselves in the soil before the autumn cold snap sets in. The most accurate planting time is determined by the regional climate:
- in Siberia and in the northern regions of Central Russia in the last days of August;
- in the Leningrad region and the Urals until September 10;
- in the Central Belt in September;
- in the Moscow region in early October;
- in the southern part of Russia and in the Rostov region in October;
- in Crimea and Krasnodar Krai in the first ten days of November.
Choose a well-lit spot for planting, sheltered from the north wind. A site under trees is suitable. In the spring, after the snow melts and before the leaves emerge, it receives good sun exposure. Dig the chosen spot thoroughly, adding humus at the same time. Before planting, inspect the daffodils again for damage. Plant the bulbs three times their diameter deep, with a spacing of 10 to 20 cm between adjacent holes.
Once planting is complete, the flowerbed is covered with a thick layer of dry leaves, mown grass, or dry compost. This plant material protects the plantings from freezing in the winter.
Helpful tips
After the flowering period, the remaining foliage of the daffodils is left alone. Their condition and color determine the maturity of the bulb and the exact time to dig it up. Don't delay digging up the planting material. If the foliage turns completely yellow, the bulbs are much more difficult to find in the ground. If the plant is in danger of dying, repotting is carried out at any time of year. Infected plants can be replanted even during flowering.
Bulbs should be stored in a cool place. Temperatures above 20°C stimulate root development. Avoid placing bulbs in plastic bags. The lack of air causes the core to rot. Furthermore, daffodil bulbs emit a gas. In the confined space of a bag, this gas can harm all the bulbs inside.
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The quality of daffodils' blooms the following year largely depends on the timely digging of the bulbs after flowering and proper storage. There's no point in digging them out of the ground every year. Therefore, the need for digging is determined by the appearance of the bush and the condition of the flowerbed. If everything is done correctly, the following year, with the arrival of spring, the daffodils will begin to grow vigorously and bloom profusely.


