Five mistakes when covering trees for the winter

Trees

Covering a tree for the winter protects the trunk and root system. This agricultural measure protects the seedling from severe frosts, wind, excess moisture, and sunburn. Don't rush the covering process, as trees only fear prolonged frosts. When preparing a plant for winter, certain rules must be followed; otherwise, it may not emerge vigorously in the spring.

Common mistakes

The most favorable period covering trees for the winter – November, when their growth stops and frost sets in. For a successful winter, seedlings benefit from hardening off. However, they should be earthed up earlier, before the soil freezes. All plants planted in the fall of the current year require mulching around the trunk. Once they are established, such protection is no longer necessary. When covering trees, novice gardeners can make mistakes that can lead to disease and even death.

Advice!

In the garden, it is advisable to plant crops that are suitable for the local climate.

Covering trees unnecessarily

Plants adapted to the local climate tolerate winter well, as long as it isn't "abnormal"—either too cold or too warm. Young trees planted this year must be covered. Mature plants are better able to withstand winter hardships. Southern varieties and container-planted trees also require cover. Conifers only need winter insulation for the first three years after planting.

Canadian spruce, thuja, and juniper are best planted in a location protected from the wind, as they are very sensitive to cold. The following species are not winter-hardy:

black elderberry;
Japanese maple;
Lawsen's cypress;
hazelnut;
common holly;
Griffith pine;
Canadian spruce;
thuja plicata;
bird cherry finely serrated;
Japanese pagoda tree.

Lack of preparatory measures

By winter, the shoots should become woody and the buds should be fully formed. The tree accumulates cryoprotectants—substances that protect against the damaging effects of freezing. To increase resistance to winter cold, seedlings are fed with a complex fertilizer in the fall. Nitrogen should not be added. Phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are especially beneficial for seedlings, as they improve stress tolerance.

Using unsuitable covering material

Don't wrap trees in plastic film. It doesn't allow air to pass through. While non-woven fabric can be very warm, accumulated condensation can encourage fungal diseases. Don't insulate trees with spruce branches alone. They only trap snow but don't protect the plant from severe frost. Furthermore, the needles fall off quickly. Spruce branches have their own disadvantages:

Fallen needles rot, increasing the acidity of the soil.
Branches from a diseased tree can cause infection to spread throughout the garden.
Coniferous branches are difficult to find, especially in steppe regions.

It's recommended to cover trees with agrofibre or lutrasil (spunbond). The latter is too thin, so the plants are wrapped in several layers. This special material retains heat well but allows air to pass through. A thick layer of leaves or spruce branches can be spread over a sturdy surface. After use, the covering fabric can be conveniently stored in bags. It can be simply rolled up and tied with string.

Leaves for covering seedlings should be collected only when dry. They are placed in bags and stored in a shed, not in a basement where humidity is high. Birch, walnut, oak, and maple leaves are more suitable as insulators, as they take a long time to decompose. Leaves collected under apple or pear trees will be completely gone by mid-February, meaning they will have no insulating effect.

Untimely construction and removal of shelter

There's no need to worry as long as the outside temperature remains above zero and the nighttime thermometer doesn't drop below -3°C. A seedling covered too early risks damping off from excess moisture and heat. If you wait too long, the tree will freeze. Covering should begin when nighttime temperatures drop to -2 to -3°C. Wait until the leaves have completely fallen. In changeable weather, it's best to create a light cover that can be removed when the weather warms up. Once the temperature drops completely, cover the tree completely.

Important!

Coniferous plants are covered no earlier than mid-winter.

Tree covers are removed in the spring, when temperatures reach 0 to +5°C and the snow begins to melt. Plants are usually uncovered in the second half of March. First, remove the spruce branches or leaf layer, and 2-4 days later, remove the burlap or agricultural material. Protective covers are removed from young spruce or pine trees at the first thaw. Otherwise, the needles will dry out and fall off. Wet snow is beneficial for them.

Violation of rules for covering seedlings

Spreading branches are carefully secured to the trunk with rope before applying the cover. Varieties with brittle stems should not be tied. For these, cube- or pyramid-shaped frames are constructed and covered with covering material. The edges are overlapped and secured with tape. Plants prone to damping off, such as rhododendrons or persimmons, require an "air shelter." For these, a U-shaped structure is constructed. The frame is made of slats, pipes, or boxes. Insulation is placed on top of it.