What to do to get a good harvest of eggplants in a greenhouse

In central and northwestern Russia, harvesting a harvest of eggplants requires considerable effort. Knowing the specifics of this crop's cultivation techniques will help you avoid mistakes when caring for eggplants in a greenhouse, and even in the northern regions, you can delight yourself and your family with a home-grown harvest.

Maintaining temperature conditions

Temperature readings should always be monitored. If the mercury drops, cover the plants in the greenhouse with additional non-woven material. For eggplants, the critical temperature is below 15ºC, as colder temperatures cause plant stunting and growth retardation. Leaves droop, change from a bright, saturated color to a pale one, and then fall off.

Overheating is dangerous when temperatures rise above 29ºC (83ºF). Extreme heat and stuffiness in a greenhouse cause leaf curling, drying out, and fruit drop. During hot weather, eggplants in shelters should be protected from direct sunlight with shade netting or thin covering material. Ventilation is essential, but doors should only be opened on one side to prevent drafts.

How to water eggplants

Eggplants love moisture, but avoid overwatering. When growing nightshade crops, you need to find a balance, taking into account weather conditions, soil conditions, and plant life.

The plant's root system is weak, and moisture delivery to the leaves, flowers, and fruit is slow. Insufficient watering can cause the plant to lose fruit immediately. Moisture levels are easier to control in light soils; in heavy soils, to avoid overwatering, add a small amount of peat and gently loosen the soil after each watering.

Signs of improper watering:

• the plants are suddenly shedding their leaves - the eggplants were watered with cold water;
• drying and curling of leaves, shedding of flowers, wilting of plant tops – lack of moisture in the soil;
• yellowing of leaf blades, dropping of ovaries - excess moisture in the soil, poor soil aeration.

After planting, water eggplants every 2-3 days, thoroughly soaking the soil. The recommended amount is 2-3 liters per plant. Subsequent waterings should be given every 6-7 days, using water that has been settled and warmed to 20ºC…23ºC. In hot weather, water 2-3 times a week; on cloudy days, one watering is sufficient. There should be no interruptions in watering before and during flowering, otherwise the ovaries of these plants will develop poorly, producing small and deformed fruits.

Water into holes and furrows, preventing soil erosion around the roots. The plant prefers moist soil, and this is most easily achieved with mulch. A layer of mown and wilted grass, straw, or sawdust up to 10 cm thick is carefully placed around the plants. Mulching prevents the soil from forming a hard crust, helps retain moisture, and simplifies eggplant care.

When using drip irrigation systems in greenhouses for watering, it is necessary to build an additional tank to heat the water in the sun so that it reaches the plants warm.

Fertilizers for eggplants

Delicious and beautiful purple fruits will only grow with proper fertilization. The typical amount of fertilization per summer is 4-5 times, but if the soil has been sufficiently fertilized (compost, rotted manure, humus, ash), three fertilizations per summer are needed.

The following organic materials are suitable:

• mullein;
• bird droppings;
• peat;
• ash.

All fertilizers must be diluted with water and applied strictly according to the norm.

The following mineral compositions are used for eggplants:

• ammonium nitrate;
• superphosphate;
• potassium sulfate;
• complex fertilizers (nitrophoska);
• ready-made compositions Agricola, Kemira, Ideal.

Good results on this crop were shown by:

• fertilizer Rastvorin;
• Kristalon universal;
• drug Stimul;
• special complex Plantafol (suitable for mixing with fungicides).

Eggplant seedlings are fed twice, by preparing an ash infusion or by watering the seedlings with ready-made fertilizers.

Before flowering

After planting in a greenhouse, fertilizing is carried out no earlier than 14-16 days later.

Options:

• complex fertilizer (Kemira, Rastvorin) – according to the instructions;
• mullein diluted in water (1:10) 2 liters per plant;
• In a bucket of warm water, dissolve a teaspoon of ammonium nitrate, two teaspoons of potassium sulfate, and three tablespoons of superphosphate.

During the flowering period

When the eggplants bloom, prepare other fertilizers:

• green "cocktail" (fill a barrel 2/3 full with chopped grass, add warm water, seal tightly and leave for 8-10 days).
• Dissolve ammonium nitrate (1.5 tablespoons) and a tablespoon of potassium sulfate in a bucket and water the eggplants with a liter per bush;
• three glasses of nitrophoska per bucket of water, dilute, water one liter per bush.

During the fruiting period

When the first fruits appear, the “blue ones” are fed with complex fertilizers (amofoska, nitrophoska), diluted according to the instructions, and poured 1-1.5 liters under the plant.

It's helpful to dust the soil around the plants with wood ash. This not only improves the nutrition of the vegetables but also protects them from infections and pests.

In poor soils, fertilize plants once a week, but do not exceed the recommended amount, and monitor the eggplants' condition. Deficiencies of certain nutrients can be detected by the eggplants' appearance.

What to do if you have a nitrogen deficiency

Older eggplant leaves turn yellow, progressing from the tips to the center of the leaf blade. Younger leaves become smaller and turn whitish, pale green, or yellow.

Help: water the plants with a urea solution, diluting 150 grams of fertilizer in 10 liters of water.

With phosphorus deficiency

Large eggplant leaves turn yellow, dark purple spots appear on the surface, and then turn black (necrosis). The leaves fall off.

Help: dilute 150 grams of superphosphate in a bucket of warm water (10 liters).

With a deficiency of potassium, magnesium

Young leaves develop a yellow border. Potassium deficiency causes small holes to form in the leaf blades.

Help: feed the plants with magnesium sulfate, add wood ash (add the ash in the form of an infusion or dust the soil around the bushes).

Forming eggplants

Pinching out side shoots from eggplants is essential for achieving good results. Removing excess shoots helps create a smooth, beautiful crown, ensures all buds receive good light, and ensures the fruit grows strong, healthy, and defect-free.

The bushes are formed in greenhouses, monitoring the condition of the plants and preventing them from becoming too dense.

Low-growing varieties don't require side shoots; only remove yellowed leaves and shoots. Care is taken to ensure the bushes don't grow too wide and interfere with neighboring plants.

Tall bushes are formed in several ways:

• in one stem (suitable for greenhouses and small-area hotbeds);
• in two stems;
• in three stems (if there is free space in the shelter).

Formation into one stem

Only one stem is left, removing all side shoots and excess ovaries. Seven to eight ovaries are left on the bush. Formation begins 18 to 20 days after planting the eggplants in their permanent location.

Formation in two stems

For medium-sized and tall plants, leave two stems, carefully removing all other stems. The stems are pinched at a height of 35-40 cm. Subsequently, any side shoots that appear on the two stems are removed.

Formation in three stems

After the first fork, two strong trunks are left on the central shoot. All other shoots are cut back. After two weeks, side shoots will grow on the remaining trunks. The strongest one is selected and left, while the others are pinched.

The procedures are carried out in the morning, removing leaves and side shoots, monitoring the light levels of the eggplant ovaries and fruits. Insufficient light causes the ovaries to fall off, and the yield decreases.

Lower leaves are gradually removed, as they draw nutrients from the roots, impede proper plant ventilation, and promote rot. No more than two leaf blades are left at the base of the stem.

Gartering eggplants

Eggplants grow quickly indoors, so the vigorous plants require support. Trellis are suitable for supporting low-growing varieties, while taller plants require trellises or stakes.

The garter is placed under each branch of the bush's shoots so that the fragile stems do not break under the weight of the fruit.

Pollination of eggplants

Eggplant flowers are large, with beautiful petals. Their color ranges from light lilac to deep purple. Each axil contains two to three florets with bright yellow-orange stamens.

The plant is pollinated by insects; to ensure better formation of ovaries, it is recommended to lightly shake the bushes during the flowering period to scatter the pollen.

Protection from diseases

Various infections can arise due to poor agricultural practices and unfavorable weather conditions. Gardeners must be able to quickly identify diseases and apply appropriate treatment.

Late blight

A dangerous infection that causes dark brown spots to appear on plant leaves. Gradually, traces of sporulation appear on the undersides of the leaf blades, and the resulting fruit rots.

Treatment

Plants are treated with Anthracnol and Ridomil Gold. The soil is watered with a solution of Fitosporin-M.

Mosaic

Eggplant leaf blades become covered with a fine, light-green pattern, reminiscent of a mosaic. A yellowish mesh forms on the surface of the fruit.

Treatment

Severely affected plants are carefully dug up and burned. Diseased bushes and the surrounding soil are treated with Farmayod-3. The proportions are as follows: for soil treatment, use 10 ml of the solution per bucket of water; for spraying bushes, use 3 ml per bucket of water.

Alternaria

Brown spots with a yellowish border appear on eggplant leaves. Later, a velvety coating (spores) develops. The leaves dry out and die.

Treatment

The soil in the garden bed is treated with Trichodermin. Eggplant bushes are sprayed with Thanos, Quadris, and Ridomil Gold (according to the instructions).

Verticillium wilt

With this infection, the leaves and shoots of eggplants gradually turn yellow, then the entire plant dries out and dies.

Treatment

In the early stages, treatment with Previkur is effective. It is recommended to water the soil with a solution containing Trichodermin.

Stolbur

The green leaves of the eggplants begin to take on a reddish tint, and the stem thickens. The plant's beautiful flowers turn green, sterilization occurs, and ovaries fail to form.

Treatment

There is no effective treatment. At the first sign of disease, the bushes are dug up and burned.

Protecting eggplants from pests

Pest control is a significant challenge for gardeners. Taking timely measures will quickly rid your garden of these unwanted pests and preserve your harvest.

Spider mite

Numerous yellow spots appear on the undersides of leaf blades. A fine webbing is visible around the leaves and shoots. The plant's growth slows and dries out.

Control measures

Treatment of bushes with Fufanon.

Aphid

Eggplant leaves curl, revealing colonies of insects on the undersides. Yellow spots and sticky honeydew appear. The presence of aphids is also indicated by a large number of ants feeding on the pest's sugary secretions.

Control measures

Treatment of eggplants with Fitoverm.

Greenhouse whitefly

The leaves turn yellow, developing a cloudy, whitish coating. They then curl and dry out. Egg clutches are visible on the underside of the leaf blades.

Control measures

Plants are sprayed with Verticillin BT.

Folk recipes

To prevent and repel pests, use compositions prepared according to folk recipes:

• infusions of chamomile, wormwood, walnut leaves;
• spraying with ash infusion (take 1.5-2 cups of ash per bucket of water, leave for 24 hours);
• infusion of dandelion leaves, crushed garlic, onion head.

By following proper agricultural practices and caring, systematic care, you're sure to grow beautiful, healthy eggplants in your garden.