Insulating trees for winter: timing, materials, and regional specifics

Preparing trees for winter is essential not only in risky farming regions, but also in central Russia, even further south. Light frosts, especially before the first snowfall, can damage the root system of even mature trees, and saplings and young plantings are also at risk.

Insulating cultivated trees for the winter is an important measure for protecting garden crops. It will ensure a bountiful harvest even after severe frosts.

Which materials are better?

To provide shelter from the cold, you can use both natural materials that you can gather yourself and special synthetic fabrics and linens. The former are affordable, while the latter are durable and effective. In temperate climates, covering the soil and roots with sawdust, spruce branches, and withered leaves is common.

To achieve good thermal insulation, they must be laid in several layers. However, in the spring, these materials will begin to release beneficial elements into the soil and will not impede active air exchange. Under such a cover, the soil will not become damp, and the risk of fungus and mold growth is minimal. However, these materials will not protect against severe cold; without additional reinforcement, they will quickly be blown away by the wind, especially in open areas.

Insulating young trees with agrofibre is a more common and reliable method of protecting them. Non-woven fabrics are highly permeable to moisture, preventing a greenhouse effect. At the same time, numerous small pores prevent air from quickly seeping through the layers, making this type of cover impervious to even strong winds.

Agrofibre can be used for several seasons. Inexpensive options can be damaged by rodents and pests, and they will also wear out over time. Dense rubber-coated products should be avoided, as they will inevitably trap moisture.

Among insulation materials, such as matting and felt stand out. They offer the best thermal insulation properties, but are the least durable. Just one layer is enough to protect the roots and even the trunk from severe frost. Using such covers correctly is not difficult, and they are not too expensive. However, after just one season, you will have to buy more insulation.

Peculiarities of the regions

No matter how reliable the thermal insulation, if the roots or trunk are already damaged by cold and the soil has frozen, the tree may die. Therefore, choosing the right time for treatment is crucial. This depends on the climate in the region.

In the southern part of the country, it's sufficient to mulch the soil and protect the trunk from pests in a timely manner. This can be done until the end of November. Only those seedlings that were planted late will require additional protection. Protecting sensitive varieties and tropical plants, which require several years of acclimation, is essential.

In the Moscow region, the central part of the country, and the Volga region, all planting preparation measures must be completed by early November. By mid-November, nighttime temperatures drop below freezing, but snowfall is extremely rare during this period. If the winter forecast isn't too dire, simple, improvised means should be used. The treatment is carried out in several stages:

• pruning;
• mulching;
• barrel insulation;
• covering the roots with sawdust or spruce branches;
• snowfall.

In the Volga region, due to strong winds and high humidity, it is recommended to use agrofibre, matting, or felt for additional protection, but this is not necessary if there is enough snow to provide reliable cover.

In northern regions, the entire tree, including large branches, must be insulated before the end of October. The first layer of root cover must be reinforced with heavy spruce branches or thin boards. Additionally, snow is raked into the root circle. The trunk is heavily insulated, using several layers.

Gardeners should be aware that covering the tree too early can be harmful to the plant, especially in warmer regions. Therefore, it's important to adhere to standard timing. For example, the time to cover an apple tree should be determined based on average daily temperatures. Preparation begins when the combined daytime and nighttime temperatures approach a stable 10 degrees Celsius.

Plants can survive cold temperatures down to freezing, but by then they need to be fully insulated. For example, in the Moscow region, this period is from late October to mid-November; in the Urals, from early October to early November; in Krasnodar, from the second half of November to early December; and in the Far East, from early October to mid-October.

Insulation of mature plantings

Mature, large trees require protection if the forecast is unfavorable and they have suffered from diseases this year. A small amount of cover is always advisable, as this will ensure the harvest is not lost even under the most unfavorable conditions in the following season. While winter frosts are difficult to damage mature plants, the first frosts without snow and late spring subzero temperatures are even more dangerous.

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Preparation

Preparing mature fruit trees for winter should begin with pre-treatment. First, harvest the entire crop, disposing of any rotted or damaged fruit. Fallen leaves should be raked up. They can become a source of soil contamination and new shoots in the spring. Pests should also be addressed. Effective preventative measures include:

• copper sulfate solution;
• lime concentrate;
• with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

If the insulation material is being used more than once, it should be dried after storage and treated with the same solution to prevent infestation. To prevent rodents from penetrating the shelter and roots, you can use something as simple as coffee grounds. The pungent odor repels even harmful slugs, snails, and larger animals.

All of them come to gardens in winter in search of food. Whitewashing with a special compound or lime will also make it difficult for rodents to access the tasty bark. Small insects, such as ants, are enemies of wood, and they won't be able to penetrate cracks and harm the plant. Furthermore, this measure will prevent the rough bark of mature trees from cracking due to temperature fluctuations.

Insulation of the tree trunk circle

Mature garden trees require protection around the trunk. Developed roots can be damaged by frost, so mulching is essential. Pre-treat the soil with a weak fungicide solution. A distinction is made between permanent and dynamic mulch. Permanent mulch also serves a decorative function, but in colder regions, dynamic mulch is recommended first, which is suitable for:

• peat;
• sawdust;
• compost;
• manure;
• humus;
• hay.

I apply manure and prepared compost in a layer no thicker than 6 centimeters. Otherwise, they may rot. All other materials can be applied in layers up to 10 centimeters thick. Seedlings are treated in a similar manner.

Permanent mulch is a soil covering made from durable materials with good thermal insulation properties. For example, gravel of varying grain sizes, coarse sand, or natural crushed stone. While dynamic mulch can be covered with spruce branches or agrofibre, permanent mulch does not require further reinforcement. The only exception is in northern regions, where multiple layers are needed to protect against severe frosts.

Insulation of the trunk and branches

Mature plants only need complete insulation in northern regions. If temperatures don't drop below -30 degrees Celsius, a mature trunk with thick, rough bark will handle the load on its own. This wooden insulation is sufficient.

However, if the plant was infected, weakened, or recently transplanted, it makes sense to still cover the trunk additionally, but then remove all materials a little earlier to ensure timely awakening in the spring.

Since constructing a protective frame around the trunk is no longer feasible due to the plant's size, flexible materials and fabrics must be used. For example, synthetic or natural pipe insulation is a good choice. It will protect against the cold, rodents, and even wild hares.

Such materials are used in pipeline installations because they are durable and can be used in the garden for up to ten years. If the material is sold in large rolls, instead of cutting it into strips, you can wrap it entirely around the trunk. Secure it on the outside with twine or regular tape. Large branches can be treated in the same way.

Covering young trees

Young plants must be protected from frost, as their roots are not yet very strong and the trunk has not yet developed a thick layer of perennial bark. This annual treatment will allow you to harvest your first crop several years earlier.

This is especially necessary when planting heat-loving trees that are not native to the region. Gardeners often encounter young trees that "rest" and fail to bloom. This is often due to hypothermia. Reliable cover will allow the crown to develop more quickly, along with a mass of fruit-bearing branches.

A good option is to use thick tights for insulation. Ideally, these should be made of natural fibers. This type of protection can generally be left on the trunk and branches for the first few years. Synthetics are poorly breathable and moisture-wicking, so it's best to avoid them. Insulated models are best. The technique for wrapping and securing them is simple, and you can learn how to do it by watching one of the many videos.

The first stage of treatment is insulating the area around the trunk and mulching it. Then, the entire tree is wrapped in a layer of the chosen material or tights. If there are thin and flexible branches, they can be pressed against the trunk. Everything is secured and tied with twine or tape. If necessary, additional spruce branches are added, slightly overlapping the trunk itself. Then, when snow falls, a thick layer is added. In the spring, this will provide an additional source of moisture for the warming soil.

Insulation of seedlings

Rooting seedlings in winter is not recommended unless they are frost-hardy varieties. Otherwise, it's best to postpone the procedure until spring. If the young tree is already buried and has strengthened somewhat, it is covered using the same method as any other young tree, but with multiple layers, even in warm climates.

How to bury properly

In the garden, you can create a proper shelter for unplanted seedlings. Placing them in a special trench is called "pitching." Choose a location that won't collect water in the spring, away from bushes, manure piles, and buildings. Dig a trench 40-60 centimeters deep. It's best to dig it from west to east. The north-facing slope should be gentle, while the south-facing slope should be at a 50-60 degree angle.

The seedlings are pre-inspected and soaked in water with an antiseptic solution. Twelve hours is enough to saturate them with moisture and kill all pests. They are placed in the trench with the roots facing north and the crowns facing south. The optimal distance between the trunks is 30 centimeters. The seedlings should be gradually covered with soil.

First, fill the spaces between and under the trunks, lightly moisten them, then fill the north side near the roots, water again, and then completely cover the trench. Once the trench is completely covered, lightly compact it without applying excessive force. Cover the topsoil with a mixture of peat and sawdust, then cover with agrofibre.

The branches themselves can be additionally protected with spruce branches or straw.

Shelter for coniferous species

Young spruce trees are sensitive not only to frost but also to snow loads. Therefore, covering the garden should begin with tying the branches. They are gently pressed against the trunk and tied with twine without tension. The area around the trunk is mulched and covered, and the trunk itself is covered with the chosen material.

If possible, you can build a triangular frame around the seedling, filling the inside with bags of straw. This is a reliable protecting the youngest trees from rodents and from severe frosts.

Acceptable cover conifers and polyethylene, as well as various perennial films. In this case, it's essential to build a frame around the trunk. Such materials should not be attached directly to the branches, as this will inevitably lead to swelling and, eventually, rot of the needles.

Covering fruit seedlings

If the seedlings have already been planted, burying them in a trench is not an option. Increased protection from cold and pests is necessary. The trunk and branches should be tightly wrapped with several layers of synthetic agrofibre. A layer of felt can be placed between the fabric and the bark. Covering the entire height and all small branches is essential, otherwise they will not survive the winter. The area around the trunk should be covered with spruce branches or straw; mulching alone is not enough.

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It's a good idea to wrap a young fruit tree sapling in a thick layer of insulation to protect it from wind and cold air. This can be either plastic film or roofing felt. This layer of insulation should be removed when the first thaw sets in.