Amaryllis: home care, growing, and why it doesn't bloom?

Flowers

Amaryllis is an ornamental flowering plant native to South Africa that has been popular among Russian florists and gardeners for many years. Even a novice gardener can grow amaryllis, as the flower thrives indoors and is easy to care for, requiring little time or effort.

The Amaryllis genus is monotypic, represented by only one species. However, the flower is often confused with members of the Hippeastrum genus, mistakenly classifying them as varieties of amaryllis. Despite their superficial similarity, however, they cannot be classified in the same genus. The dense flowers of amaryllis exude a pleasant, subtle fragrance, unlike the hollow buds of Hippeastrum.

Characteristics of amaryllis and species diversity

Amaryllis is a monotypic genus of perennial bulbous plants belonging to the Amaryllidaceae family. The only representative of the genus is Amaryllis belladonna, or beautiful. The underground portion of the plant consists of a pear-shaped bulb consisting of numerous scales. The diameter of the bulb can range from 6 to 12 cm. Fibrous roots are located at the base of the bulb.

The flower's dense, narrow leaf blades are arranged in two rows, growing directly from the bulb. The deep green leaves can reach half a meter in length, while their width rarely reaches even 2.5 cm. A smooth, bare-stemmed flower stalk grows from the center of the bulb. As can be seen in the photo, a single flower stalk can bear between two and eleven funnel-shaped buds, each consisting of six elongated petals.

The flowers can reach 12 cm in diameter. In the wild, amaryllis can be found with white or pink flowers, which exude a pleasant, subtle fragrance. However, thanks to the diligent work of breeders, several varieties with a wide range of colors have been developed from the Amaryllis magnifica.

The most popular varieties of amaryllis include:

  1. Durban. This variety is distinguished by large red inflorescences with whitish streaks at the base.

    Durban
    Durban
  2. Parker. The Parker amaryllis' petals are bright pink, but a yellow throat is visible at their base.

    Parker
    Parker
  3. Double Nymph. This variety stands out for its double flowers, colored a soft pink.

    Terry nymph
    Terry nymph
  4. Snow Queen. A large-flowered variety with white flowers covered with a light glossy sheen.

    The Snow Queen
    The Snow Queen
  5. Red Lion is one of the most popular amaryllis varieties. During flowering, rich red buds appear on leathery stems.

    Red Lion
    Red Lion

There are many varieties of amaryllis, differing not only in flower color but also in shape. Breeders strive to develop as many interesting varieties with large, variegated blooms as possible.

Caring for amaryllis at home: secrets and difficulties

Caring for amaryllis is not difficult; following basic agricultural guidelines will allow any home gardener to grow a healthy flowering plant.

Lighting

Amaryllis is a sun-loving ornamental plant that requires good lighting. However, avoid exposing the above-ground portion of the flower to direct sunlight, as this can cause burns.

Advice!
It is recommended to periodically rotate the plant around its axis to avoid uneven growth of the leaf blades.

The flower has a pronounced dormant period, which lasts from December to April, during which time only the underground portion of the plant remains. The bulb does not require light, so it is recommended to move the plant to a dark location during its dormant period.

Temperature and humidity

An average room temperature of 18-25°C is optimal for the flower. After the flowers appear, the plant can be moved to a room where the temperature does not rise above 20°C. This will prolong the flowering period. Average humidity levels are ideal for growing amaryllis.

Watering
Avoid placing the plant near heating devices that dry out the air in the room.

Spraying the foliage is also not recommended; periodically wiping it with a damp, soft cloth is sufficient. In extreme heat, a tray filled with damp expanded clay can be placed nearby. After the foliage has shed, it is recommended to place the bulb pot in a cool, dry room with a temperature of 10-12°C.

Watering and fertilizing

During the active growing season, the plant requires regular, even watering. The soil should always remain slightly moist. It is recommended to use soft, room-temperature water. It is best to water through the tray, as excessive moisture on the bulb can cause it to rot.

Important!
Immediately after the leaves have fallen, the amount of watering should be reduced to a minimum, since in a cold room, moisture evaporates from the pot slowly.

In spring and summer, the plant requires additional nutrients. Liquid fertilizer for bulbous plants is recommended for feeding. Apply the product every 10-14 days.

Pruning and pinching

Many gardeners mistakenly believe that flower stalks should be cut back immediately after the flowers die. In fact, pruning should only be done after the flower stalk turns from green to yellow and loses its density.

This late pruning allows the bulb to absorb all the nutrients contained in the plant's leaf blades and flower stalk. By pruning the stalk just as the first bud is opening, you can stimulate the appearance of a new one. The cut stalk can be placed in a container of water, where it will delight you with its blooms for 2 to 3 weeks.

Preparing for winter

Flowering exhausts the plant and takes a significant amount of energy, which is subsequently restored during the dormant period. The lack of a normal dormant period hinders plant growth and negatively impacts the quality of its flowering. A depleted bulb is the main reason for the lack of flower stalks.

To prepare the plant for winter, reduce the frequency and amount of watering after flowering. Avoid fertilizing the plant during this time. Once the flower stalk and leaves have completely faded, trim them off, leaving only the bulb in the pot. The container with the bulb should be placed in a cool, dry place. While dormant, the bulb does not require light.

Diseases and pests

Improper care reduces the flower's protective function and leads to the appearance of various diseases and pest attacks:

  1. Overwatering and excessively humid indoor air can lead to fusarium wilt. This disease causes the bulb to rot, which is manifested by wilting and yellowing of the leaves. Removing the rotted areas and treating with antifungal agents will help the plant overcome the disease. After treatment, the plant should be repotted in new soil.

    Fusarium
    Fusarium
  2. The appearance of brown streaks on the leaves indicates that the plant is affected by anthracnose. Treatment involves treating the plant with antifungal agents and repotting it in fresh soil.
  3. The plant is also susceptible to attack by various harmful insects, namely onion mites, scale insects, and mealybugs. Scale insects and mealybugs can be controlled by treating the soil with insecticides, while acaricides are required to control mites.

Caring for the plant during and after flowering

Under optimal conditions, amaryllis begins blooming within 2-3 months of planting, and a healthy bulb can maintain blooms for up to 3 weeks. A flowering plant requires more careful care, as the emergence of a flower stalk and the maintenance of blooms require a significant amount of energy:

  1. The flower requires regular, abundant watering and good light; otherwise, its buds will become pale and wilt quickly. However, avoid allowing the blooms to come into contact with moisture, so it's best to water through the tray.

    Top dressing
    Regular fertilization every 14 days will also have a beneficial effect on the duration of flowering and will prevent the bulb from becoming depleted.
  2. It's recommended to keep blooming amaryllis at a temperature of 18 to 20°C. This temperature range will prolong flowering. However, it's important to keep in mind that as the temperature drops, the amount of light the flower receives will also decrease.
  3. Bulbs can produce several shoots at once, and gardeners recommend cutting off one of them immediately after the first bud opens. This prevents the bulb from becoming exhausted.

    Arrows
    Moreover, the cut inflorescence will bloom even if it is placed in a container with water.
  4. After flowering, it's recommended to minimize watering and stop fertilizing. Don't trim the flower stalk immediately, otherwise the bulb won't have time to absorb all the nutrients it needs to survive the winter. The end of flowering indicates that the amaryllis needs to recover.
  5. Moving the bulb to a dark, cool room where the temperature does not drop below 10°C will allow it to regain its strength for the next flowering.

Why doesn't the amaryllis bloom, but only produces leaves?

Quite often, gardeners encounter the problem of their amaryllis failing to bloom, even though it appears healthy and is growing normally, only producing leaves. The main reason for the plant's failure to form flower stalks is improper care and unsuitable growing conditions.

It is important to become familiar with common mistakes that lead to lack of flowering and ways to correct them:

Cause Solution
Poor lighting Move the plant to a brighter location. East or west-facing windowsills are excellent choices.
Lack of nutrients in the soil Don't forget to fertilize the soil with liquid fertilizers for ornamental bulbous plants.
Dense soil that prevents normal root growth Transplant the bulb into a looser soil substrate.
Low room temperature, which inhibits crop growth Keep the flower in a room where the air temperature does not drop below 20 °C.
A small pot, the entire space of which is filled with bulbous babies. Plant the young bulbs in separate containers.
The onion was not given any rest. Let the bulb rest by placing it in a cool, dark place.
The bulb is too deep in the soil Replant the bulb, following all planting rules.
The plant is affected by diseases or pests Regularly inspect the crop for diseases and pests.

However, poor plant care isn't necessarily the cause of a lack of blooms. If an amaryllis produced two or more flower stalks last season and delighted with its long blooms, it may need a bit of a break. This is because the plant simply hasn't had time to fully recover from its previous abundant blooms. It's also worth remembering that young amaryllis plants are unable to bloom; their bulbs simply lack the strength to produce flowers. Only mature specimens, over three years old, bloom.

Growing and replanting amaryllis at home

Amaryllis reproduces in several ways: by seeds and bulbous shoots:

  1. Growing amaryllis from seed is a rather lengthy and labor-intensive process, and a plant grown from seed will only bloom after five years. To obtain seeds, the plant must be pollinated manually using a regular brush. The seeds are located in a capsule and collected only after it has dried. Fresh seeds are sown in a nutritious, loose substrate, and the container with the seedlings is placed in a warm, well-lit area.

    Amaryllis seeds
    Amaryllis seeds
  2. Propagation using offshoots is a quick and reliable way to obtain a new flower. Offshoots appear only from a healthy and mature mother plant. Immediately after separation, the offshoots are planted in small containers filled with a sand-perlite growing mixture. Once established, the bulbs are transplanted into permanent soil. With proper care, a plant grown from offshoots will be capable of flowering in just 2-3 years.

The plant doesn't require frequent repotting. It's sufficient to repot the plant into a new container once every 2-4 years. However, it's best to partially replace the soil annually. It's recommended to repot 3-4 weeks after flowering has finished.

The transplant is performed in the following sequence:

  1. A 2-3 cm drainage layer is placed at the bottom of a pre-prepared pot. Expanded clay, crushed stone, small pebbles, or broken pottery can be used as drainage.
  2. A soil mixture consisting of turf, leaf soil, peat, humus and sand, taken in equal quantities, is poured over the drainage.

    Soil for planting
    Soil for planting
  3. The flower is carefully removed from the old container and inspected for damage and disease. If necessary, damaged areas of the bulb are removed, and the cut areas are treated with antifungal agents.
  4. The planting material is immersed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for a quarter of an hour and dried.
  5. The bulb is immersed 2/3 into the ground with the blunt end down.

    Planting a bulb
    Planting a bulb
  6. The soil around the flower is carefully compacted.
  7. The plant is watered with soft water at room temperature.

It is recommended to use a deep pot as a new container, the diameter of which is 3-4 cm larger than the bulb.

Frequently asked questions about growing

Almost all the leaves are covered in brown spots. What are these symptoms?
The appearance of brown spots on the leaf surface is a symptom of an attack and the action of a false scale insect.
Do I need to dig up the bulb in the fall?
The bulb overwinters well in a pot, so there is no need to dig it up.
Are the bulbs and the plant itself poisonous?
All parts of the flower contain toxic substances that, if ingested, can cause diarrhea, vomiting, and kidney dysfunction. For this reason, it is recommended to wear gloves when handling amaryllis.
We accidentally overwatered our amaryllis and it started to wilt. How can we save it?
Exposing the bulb to large amounts of water directly often causes it to rot. Removing the rotted parts of the bulb, treating it with antifungal agents, and replanting it in new soil will help revive the plant.

Amaryllis is a flowering ornamental plant that even an inexperienced gardener can easily grow if they follow basic rules: regular, gentle watering without overwatering and good lighting without direct sunlight.

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