Hydrangea care in autumn and preparation for winter

Gardeners value hydrangea for its low maintenance and stunning appearance. The shrub can be grown in unusual soils where other crops struggle to produce high-quality blooms. Each season of the garden requires its own schedule. autumn care and preparation for winter are essential. These measures restore the plant's strength after flowering and prepare it for the cold weather.

Fertilizing

You can understand what to do with hydrangeas in the fall by studying the plant's needs and the characteristics of its life cycle. The shrub overwinters outdoors, so it needs to get stronger before frost. flowering period When shoots and shoots begin to grow vigorously, the plant loses a lot of energy. This can be restored by applying fertilizer. The first autumn feeding is done in September, and the second soon after pruning.

The exact timing of these activities depends on the region's climate. Gardeners are advised to focus on the beginning of leaf fall. It's important to pay attention to the composition of the fertilizer. It shouldn't contain nitrogen, otherwise the plant will prolong its growing season, and young shoots won't have time to mature before winter and will freeze. It's important that the fertilizer contains potassium, phosphorus, and magnesium. These minerals will help strengthen the root system and promote lignification of shoots.

In September, add 5 liters of a nutrient solution made from 2 tablespoons of superphosphate, 2 tablespoons of potassium sulfate, and 10 liters of water to each hydrangea bush. The nutrient solution is added to moist soil. You can also use a specialized autumn fertilizer for hydrangeas. For those who prefer organics, can use:

• mullein infusion;
• humus:
• humus.

The second feeding is recommended two weeks after pruning. The hydrangea needs time to recover. This time, it's best to use a phosphorus-potassium fertilizer, applied as a solution or granules. In dry weather, it's better to use liquid fertilizer. Granules are used during rainy weather.

Before covering the hydrangea bush, you can spread compost or humus under it. The fertilizer will decompose slowly and warm the roots, and in the spring, along with the melted snow, it will penetrate the soil and nourish the plant, ensuring vigorous growth.

Rules for autumn pruning

Not everyone believes that hydrangeas need to be pruned for the winter. Some gardeners believe the bush can shape itself, while others prefer to prune in the spring. However, experts insist on the need for fall pruning. The bush is cleared of diseased, weak, and damaged branches, and healthy shoots are shortened. This is necessary because not everyone has time to get to their garden early in the spring, before the hydrangea has awakened from its dormancy.

An important point is that pruning is no longer possible once the sap begins to flow. It's best to set aside time for pruning in late autumn, and then remove frost-damaged branches in the spring. Three types of hydrangea are most commonly grown in Russia: paniculate, large-leaved, and arborescent. Each has its own pruning rules. taking into account the characteristics of the plant:

1. Hydrangea paniculata Hydrangea is a large shrub up to 2.5 m tall with a lush, spherical crown. The pyramidal inflorescences change color during flowering from greenish to white, pink, or purple. This species does not require drastic pruning. Hydrangea is pruned moderately, shaping the crown, thinning the bush, and rejuvenating it. It is not recommended to touch skeletal branches. If several shoots appear at one growth point, leave the strongest one and remove the others. Weak and damaged branches should also be removed. If the bush requires rejuvenation, this is done gradually, spreading the process over 2-3 seasons. Old shoots are cut out one by one, leaving stumps 10-15 cm high.
2. Hydrangea macrophylla This hydrangea is more suitable for growing in southern climates. It surpasses other species in terms of ornamental appeal. This hydrangea has very large inflorescences and striking foliage. Winter preparation for the large-leaved hydrangea is more thorough, given its low frost resistance. When pruning, remember that flowers bloom on last year's shoots. If these branches are significantly shortened, the bush will not bloom the following season. Shoots older than four years are cut at the base. Autumn pruning of this hydrangea variety is done to clean and rejuvenate the bush. New growth is allowed to overwinter, as this is where flower buds are formed. If young shoots are damaged by frost in the winter, they can be pruned in the spring.
3. Tree hydrangea Pruning is done in the same way as paniculata. For sanitary purposes, remove diseased, broken, and dry shoots, and trim off the flower heads. Branches growing inward and shoots that did not bloom this year should also be removed. These branches will not produce flowers next season anyway; they will only contribute to the bush becoming denser and sap its strength. Strong skeletal branches are shortened by 2-3 buds. This species requires pruning more than others due to its rapid growth rate.

Winter preparation deadlines by region

The most important activities in preparing hydrangea for winter pruning and covering can be consideredThey occur one after another: once the bush is pruned, it is covered. This should be done before the onset of sustained frost, taking into account the weather conditions in the growing region.

In central Russia, special attention will need to be paid to the large-leaved hydrangea. Arborescent and paniculate hydrangeas can be covered Less thoroughly, making an exception for young plants. Preparing hydrangeas for winter at the dacha begins with fertilizing in September. At the end of October, the hydrangeas are hilled up, and the young bushes are also covered aboveground.

Only zoned varieties are suitable for growing in Siberia varieties, but they also require pre-winter preparation. Starting in August, stop using nitrogen fertilizers, and stop watering at the beginning of September. For panicle hydrangea Winter care involves securing fragile branches to a wooden support to prevent them from being damaged by heavy snowfalls.

In the Urals, hydrangea after flowering should be fed In August. The second feeding is done a month later. Fertilizing will promote accelerated lignification of shoots and root growth. After 12-14 days, stop watering the shrub, and continue pruning. The weather in this region is unpredictable. Frosts can arrive in early or late October. In any case, by the end of this month, it's important to fully prepare and cover the heat-loving hydrangea to prevent it from freezing in the winter.

Construction of a shelter

When constructing a shelter, consider the hydrangea variety, the size of the bush, and its age. For a mature bush, hilling up is sufficient, with snow providing additional insulation. For young plants, it's best to cover the shoots. Specific sheltering measures are specific to each plant species. will be as follows:

1. Panicle hydrangeas develop their most viable buds in the mid-section of the shoots, so frost damage to the branch tips won't cause much harm. When constructing a shelter, consider the weather conditions in the region. Frost isn't the only factor that can have a negative impact. Strong, damp winds can cause even more damage. In southern and temperate regions, high hilling with a mixture of dry soil and peat is sufficient for panicle hydrangeas. Siberia and the Urals The branches are bent into the ground and secured with spruce branches, burlap, or agrofibre. Large bushes are wrapped vertically with several layers of non-woven covering material.
2. For heat-loving large-leaved hydrangeas, covering should be done in advance, before freezing temperatures arrive. Before covering the plant, remove the leaves, leaving only the very top to protect the terminal buds. After this, divide the bush in half, bending each section to the ground and installing metal arches over the branches. Next, mulch the hydrangea with peat or pine needles. Cover the arches with two layers of lutrasil, securing them near the ground. Avoid using plastic film for covering, as it does not allow air to pass through. Uncover the bush in the spring only after all danger of frost has passed.
3. Hydrangea arborescens is a strong and undemanding plant that requires minimal recovery time in the spring. Its winter hardiness increases with age, but it's best to cover it for prevention. Hilling up the roots is essential. The aboveground portion is insulated vertically, after tying the shoots to a stake. Spruce branches are laid around the plant. In northern regions, the aboveground portion is additionally covered with two or three layers of spunbond or lutrasil. This material can be secured to the plant with rope. For large and older bushes, a frame shelter is constructed, filling the inside with dry leaves. In this case, the upper part of the structure must be protected from moisture penetration.

Proper covering will allow hydrangeas to survive the winter successfully, remaining strong and healthy. Insufficient insulation will not kill the bush, but it will not produce abundant blooms. Frost usually affects the tips of the shoots, where flower buds are formed. In the spring, the covering should not be removed abruptly; initially, it should only be lifted slightly during the thaw. It is recommended to remove the covering completely when the snow begins to melt rapidly.