Calathea: Home Care and Why Are Leaves Drying Out?

The Calathea genus comprises approximately 130 plant species, native to South and Central America. The flower's name literally translates as "basket." This stems from the fact that several centuries ago, baskets were woven from calathea leaves. Today, the plant has become widespread thanks to the ornamental nature of its foliage, which captivates with its attractive patterns.

Calathea requires very high care and is known for its fussiness and finicky nature, so growing a beautiful, healthy plant at home isn't easy. Beginners are advised against growing this plant, as only an experienced gardener can handle this task.

Characteristics of the variety and species diversity of calathea

Most plant species develop shallow roots, from which a short trunk emerges, as clearly visible in the photo. The internodes are so close together that it appears as if the rosette of leaves is forming directly in the soil.

Large, oval-shaped leaves are borne on fairly long petioles. Their length can reach 40 cm. The height of the bush varies between 70 and 90 cm. The flowers are inconspicuous, but some species, such as Saffron and Warszewiczii, have decorative bracts of pink, white, orange, or cream.

The following varieties are grown as a home crop:

1. Calathea bachemii is considered a relatively low-maintenance species. Its distinctive feature is the absence of stems. The long leaves (approximately 40 cm) are lanceolate. The leathery foliage is silvery-green with a rich green pattern running along the midrib.

   

2. Calathea makoja can reach a height of 50 cm. The broadly oval foliage grows no more than 20 cm in length. The leaves are whitish with light green veins and dark green stripes.

   

3. Calathea var. The Calathea var. has a dense rosette of elongated leaves edged with a dark green border. The center of the foliage is pale green, almost white. Light green veins run along the entire length of the leaf.

   

4. Calathea veitchii is one of the most beautiful species in this genus. This large plant produces leaves in shades of green with a beautiful and unusual white-green pattern. The undersides of the leaves have a reddish tint.

   

5. The crocus-flowered calathea stands out from its relatives with its beautiful blooms. In full sunlight, this variety produces orange or bright yellow flowers in midwinter. The foliage is dark green, with the undersides having a dark, almost olive hue.

   

Difficulties in caring for calathea at home

The beauty of this bush's leaves is captivating, but don't buy it unless you can devote a lot of attention to it and create optimal conditions. The capricious calathea requires ideal growing conditions, so it's important to familiarize yourself with its preferences.

Soil for planting

The correct selection of soil mixture determines the further development and health of the flower. The pot should be filled with nutritious, loose, and slightly acidic soil. Alkaline soils are detrimental to the flower, so it's best to purchase a ready-made soil mixture for arrowroot. You can make your own soil mixture using the following ingredients:

• humus – 1 part;
• leaf soil – 1 part;
• peat – 1 part;
• river sand (calcined) – 0.5 parts.

Lighting

In the wild, the flower thrives under tree canopies, which provide protection from the scorching sun. When grown indoors, the plant should be shaded from direct sunlight. Partial shade or a room with filtered light are ideal growing conditions.

However, insufficient light causes the leaves to change color; they become pale and lose their decorative appeal. Excessive sunlight often causes yellowing of the foliage. The pot should be placed on a west, east, or southeast exposure. For optimal growth, provide the plant with 14 hours of daylight, often using phytolamps.

Air temperature and humidity

The temperature of the room where the plant lives should be the same, without sudden changes.

If the flowerpot is placed on a windowsill in winter, it is advisable to place a thick piece of fabric underneath it to protect the root system from overcooling.

The flower prefers high humidity, around 70%. Maintaining such a microclimate indoors is very difficult, so the plant is often grown in a terrarium or florarium. If the pot is kept on a windowsill, regularly mist the area around the flower and only lightly mist the foliage.

Gardeners recommend wiping the foliage frequently with a damp cloth, as water droplets can cause dark spots. For varieties with velvety leaves, provide another moisture source: take a small tray, fill it with expanded clay or pebbles, and fill it with water. Place the pot on stones, ensuring its bottom doesn't touch the water.

Watering

Water the calathea so that the substrate remains constantly moist. Even a slight drought can cause the plant to die.

For watering, use only warm water that contains a small amount of lime and salts. Meltwater or rainwater is best. When watering with tap water, let it settle for at least three days beforehand. It's recommended to soak a small amount of peat moss wrapped in cheesecloth in the settled water overnight. This helps acidify the water.

Top dressing

During active growth, apply liquid fertilizers designed for ornamental foliage varieties. Fertilizing should be done no more than twice a month, as the capricious calathea is very sensitive to excess nutrients.

Transfer

Young plants are repotted annually after winter, while mature plants should be disturbed no more than once every three years. First, select a suitable pot that is wide but not too deep. The soil should be slightly acidic.

After removing the flower from the old pot, add a thick layer of high-quality drainage material to the new container, followed by a layer of fresh, moistened soil. Then, using the transshipment method, transfer the plant to the new pot. This should be done very carefully to avoid damaging the sensitive roots. The resulting voids are filled with new soil and compacted lightly.

Methods of flower propagation

Calathea is difficult to propagate, but with dedication and proper care, you can grow a new plant. There are three propagation methods: division, cuttings, and seeds.

Cuttings

It's best to propagate the flower using cuttings in the spring. Take a cutting about 15 cm long from a mature plant. The planting material should have several leaves and growing points. You can also cut off a leaf and plant it, like the cutting, in a separate container with moist soil and cover with transparent film or a plastic bottle.

Dividing the bush

This is the most common propagation method, performed during repotting. The plant is removed from the pot and the rhizome is cut with a sharp, sterile knife to create several fully grown specimens with leaves and roots.

The optimal temperature is 22-24°C. Water and mist regularly, and keep the pot in partial shade. Fertilize once every three weeks.

Seeds

Seed propagation is the most difficult, as the planting material has a short shelf life and poor germination. Seeds are sown in a soil mixture of sand and leaf mold. They are lightly buried in the soil and covered with plastic wrap.

The container is transferred to a warm room with a temperature of at least 22°C. Seedlings can be expected within one month after planting.

Why are my calathea leaves drying out?

Drying foliage most often indicates improper care. The following factors can cause dry leaves:

• change of location of the flowerpot;
• incorrect watering regime;
• too large capacity for the root system;
• exposure to scorching sun rays;
• hypothermia due to a draft;
• low level of ambient humidity.

If the tips of the plant begin to dry out, the humidity in the room is too low. Curled leaf blades indicate too much light. Darkening leaves indicate insufficient watering, while blackening stems indicate overwatering.

Diseases and their treatment

Calathea is very difficult for beginners to grow, as it's sensitive to improper growing conditions. Overwatering can trigger root rot. In this case, repot the plant, trim off any damaged roots, treat it with a fungicide, and learn how to optimally water it.

The appearance of brown spots indicates sunburn, so it's worth relocating the plant pot or providing it with shade. If the upper leaves are turning yellow, there's too much fertilizer in the soil, the room temperature is too low, or the plant is being watered improperly.

Pests and control methods

Spider mites, thrips, and scale insects thrive in low humidity, so they attack plants that thrive in such conditions. Affected plants begin to turn yellow and drop their leaves. These insects are most often found on the underside of leaves. If thin white webs, a sticky coating, or whitish spots appear on the above-ground parts of the leaves, immediate action is necessary:

1. Spider mites are destroyed by applying insecticide in several stages.
2. You can get rid of scale insects and thrips by using a soap solution and treating the plant.

After each treatment, the above-ground part is washed with warm water.

Frequently asked questions about growing

Calathea is known for its capricious nature, but its beauty simply captivates flower lovers. It requires a lot of attention and is demanding in terms of growing conditions, but its decorative leaves with intricate patterns are a wonderful reward for the effort.