Catharanthus - care and cultivation at home

Flowers

Catharanthus is a herbaceous plant belonging to the Apocynaceae family. It is also known by the names Madagascar Vinca, Lonera, Old Maid, and Cayenne Jasmine. In its native tropics, the flower grows as an evergreen perennial shrub reaching one and a half meters in height. In our climate, it can only be grown in flowerbeds as an annual. As a houseplant, Catharanthus can live for several years, but the height of the bush will not exceed 40 cm.

Caring for the catharanthus at home is straightforward. Provided all growing recommendations are followed, gardeners are unlikely to encounter any significant difficulties.

Characteristics of Catharanthus and species diversity

Catharanthus has a taproot system. In a mature plant, the root reaches 40 cm, with numerous thread-like branches. The leaves are oval-shaped, with a smooth surface and a leathery texture. The blades are dark green. The central vein is highlighted by a thin light-green stripe. Leaf size varies by variety: they range from 2.5 to 8 cm in length and 3 to 5 cm in width. The leaves grow oppositely, attached to the stem by short petioles. The shoots are heavily branched and covered with smooth green or pink bark.

The buds form in the leaf axils of the apical shoots. The inflorescences are racemose. The flower consists of five fused wedge-shaped petals, a narrow tube, and short stamens.

In nature, there are eight species of Catharanthus. In horticulture, only hybrids adapted to our conditions are used. They can be roughly divided into two groups:

ampelous species;
shrubs.

Rules for caring for catharanthus at home

The Catharanthus is a flower with a pronounced dormancy period. This must be taken into account when growing it. After flowering, the plant needs several weeks to recover. During this period of rest, it is advisable to move it to cooler conditions, provide partial shade, and temporarily stop feeding. The Catharanthus will signal its emergence from dormancy by sprouting new shoots.

Lighting

The plant prefers plenty of bright, filtered light. Flowers grown in the shade develop much more slowly and often fail to bloom. Strong sunlight can also damage the catharanthus, scorching it with its rays.

Note!

The optimal placement for the plant is on east- and west-facing windowsills. On a north-facing window, additional light will be needed. On a south-facing window, the catharanthus will need to be shaded from the scorching sun.

In summer, indoor plants can be moved outdoors. Catharanthus benefits from morning and evening sun. The pot should be located in a location protected from midday sun, drafts, and precipitation.

Temperature and humidity

The flower doesn't tolerate cold. This is why catharanthus grown in the garden dies with the onset of autumn. Indoor plants thrive in temperatures between 20 and 25°C. In winter, it's best to lower the temperature. The temperature transition should be gradual; a sudden change will stress the plant.

The flower's native land is the tropics, so it requires high humidity. There are several recommendations for achieving high humidity levels:

Daily spraying.
Shower in the warm season.
Wiping the leaves with a damp sponge.
A tray with wet expanded clay under the pot.
Directing the air humidifier towards the plant.
A container with water for evaporation in close proximity to the pot.
Placing a flower next to the aquarium.

Important!

Avoid over-watering. High moisture levels encourage the development of fungal diseases.

Watering and fertilizing

The soil in which the flower grows should not dry out. Therefore, the plant should be watered frequently but moderately. Overwatering the substrate promotes root rot. If catharanthus is grown in the garden, cover it with plastic during rainy seasons.

It is permissible to use tap water, provided that it is first purified from salts by filtration.

Catharanthus requires fertilization. Apply fertilizer according to the following schedule:

from the beginning of the growing season until the period of bud formation - every 2 weeks with organic fertilizers;
budding and flowering period – 3 times a month with mineral fertilizers with a high concentration of phosphorus and potassium.

After flowering, stop feeding for several weeks. As soon as the plant produces new shoots, resume applying organic fertilizers. During active growth, apply liquid nitrogen-containing fertilizers to the catharanthus leaves.

Remember!

Overfeeding the plant is unacceptable. Excessive fertilizer damages the root system, causing burns.

Diseases and pests

Catharanthus can be affected by fungal and bacterial infections and become prey to harmful insects. The following diseases and pests commonly attack the flowers:

Definition	Symptoms	Treatment methods
Rust	Reddish-brown spots appear between the leaf veins. Over time, these spots develop into brown, cushion-shaped growths.	Removal of affected parts of the plant followed by repeated treatment with fungicides. The flower must be replanted into fresh soil, and the pot and all used tools must be disinfected.
Root rot	Blackening and covering of the root area of the stem with putrefactive mucus.
Gray rot	Wet brown spots on leaves and stems that eventually become covered with a grey, fluffy coating.
Late blight	Small brown spots appear on the leaves. Later, the spots turn purple and begin to grow. Then they turn black and rot. The affected parts of the flower become deformed.
Fusarium	The stem bases become thinner and dry out. The leaves lose their tone, and yellowish spots appear on them. A pinkish moldy coating appears on the roots. A black ring can be seen on the cut surface of the affected shoot.
Bacterial rot	Water-soaked areas with clearly defined borders appear on leaves. Initially, the areas are yellow, but over time they darken, acquiring a brown tint. The disease spreads rapidly, infecting neighboring crops.	Incurable. The plant and the soil it grew in must be destroyed, and the pot and tools used must be disinfected.
Scale insect	Dark waxy spots on the back of the leaf.	Spraying with an insecticide solution.
Whitefly	Small whitish insects resembling moths are visible on the leaves of the plant.
Aphid	A large number of small insects on the surface of the stem, less often on the leaves.
Mealybug	A small whitish worm that wraps itself around a leaf, curling it into a tube.
Spider mite	Fine web threads on the back of leaves and petioles.

Most cases of catharanthus disease are associated with improper care of the plant.

Growing and replanting catharanthus at home

Growing this flower indoors is not difficult. Furthermore, the plant is easily propagated by seeds, cuttings, and division.

Reproduction

The flower can be grown from seed. The procedure involves the following steps:

Before planting, the seeds are soaked for half an hour in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
They are then planted in moist, fertile soil at a distance of 3-5 cm from each other. The seeds are covered with a thin layer of soil.
The crops are kept in conditions of high humidity and high temperature under film.

When seedlings emerge, the film is removed. As soon as the first leaves appear, the plants are transplanted into individual pots.

Shoots remaining after spring pruning can be used for propagation by cuttings. They root easily in water or peat-sandy soil. Cuttings should be kept in bright light, high temperature, and high humidity.

Reproduction — Rooted cuttings are cared for in the same way as adult catharanthus.

When replanting, you can divide an overgrown bush into several sections. This is done with a sharp knife. Treat the cut areas with an antiseptic. The separated sections are planted as mature plants. They require no additional care.

Transfer

Indoor catharanthus are repotted every spring, but some species grow so rapidly that they need to be repotted twice a year.

The flower transplantation process is as follows:

a drainage layer of expanded clay is placed on the bottom of the pot;
a small layer of fresh substrate is poured onto it;
the flower is placed into the pot together with a lump of earth;
the voids in the pot are filled with fresh substrate;
The top layer of soil is lightly pressed down and well moistened.

Transfer — It is permissible to place several plants in one pot at once.

This creates the impression of a fuller bush. The flower grows well in a geranium soil mix.

Frequently Asked Questions

How to distinguish between a catharanthus and a pink periwinkle?

The flower differs from the pink periwinkle in its more compact size. Furthermore, the catharanthus has a wider color palette.

What medicinal properties does the plant have?

The plant is used in traditional and folk medicine. It is an ingredient in medications against leukemia. Folklore also uses the flower to treat trophic ulcers, certain gum and oral diseases, respiratory ailments, hypertension, and diabetes.

Is it true that the plant is poisonous?

Like all other members of the Apocynaceae family, Catharanthus are poisonous. All parts of the plant are toxic. They contain up to 60 toxic alkaloids, which can cause varying degrees of allergic reactions and burns.

How to prune a plant correctly?

Pruning is done every spring. Shoots that have stretched over the winter are shortened by a third. All dried parts of the plant are removed. If the flower is grown as a hanging plant, it is shaped into a ball. To increase the density of the crown, the tips of the shoots are pinched.

Catharanthus are extremely easy-to-grow and beautiful flowers. They can be grown both in garden plots and indoors in hanging baskets or on a windowsill.