How to care for strawberries in spring

Strawberry

Strawberries are one of the most beloved berries by both children and adults. They are grown in almost every garden, and with proper care, even a small plot can yield a harvest sufficient for both food and winter storage.

After fruiting, the bushes need to be provided with a comfortable winter and reliable protection from frost, but in the spring, gardeners face more pressing challenges. This article will help you learn about spring strawberry care, when necessary treatments can be carried out, and when it's best to leave the berries alone, how to protect plantings from pests and diseases, and much more.

Do strawberries need care when planted in open ground?

Strawberries are primarily grown outdoors. Greenhouses for berry production are rarely built, mostly for industrial-scale production. Today, there are varieties suitable for indoor use, but growing strawberries in flowerpots on windowsills is more of an exotic pastime than a viable option.

Strawberries are generally an easy-to-grow plant. They can grow in a variety of soil types and don't require constant attention, but they do require some care, especially in the spring. The key steps for successful cultivation are:

irrigation (stimulates vegetation processes);
loosening (ensures oxygen supply to the roots, prevents moisture stagnation);
top dressing (increases yield and quality of fruits);
mulching (protects from drying out and frost);
transplantation (helps extend the fruiting period).

Important! Different strawberry varieties should be planted in separate beds. This will make caring for the berries easier and prevent cross-pollination during flowering.

Features of strawberry care in spring

As the snow melts, the strawberries awaken. It's impossible to postpone all the necessary procedures. Everything planned must be carried out on time, because after winter, the seedlings need support and nutrition, and the future harvest depends on how well these procedures are carried out.

But don't rely solely on snowmelt. In some regions, it can take a long time. In this case, you can sprinkle the beds with wood ash. This will speed up the melting and help young seedlings break free from the snow.

This is important! Sometimes, to melt snow, people sprinkle it with salt. This shouldn't be done in garden beds, as it can damage the soil.

When there is no more snow on the beds, you need to

clear away dry leaves, mulch and other plant debris;
inspect the bushes and remove dry leaves, frozen shoots and unnecessary tendrils;
pull out the weeds;
loosen the soil;
carry out top dressing.

You should also carefully inspect the strawberries to identify any roots that may have become exposed after the winter. If this happens, sprinkle them with a mixture of sand, peat, and garden soil (in equal parts).

In the Moscow region and the Volga region, strawberry harvesting begins in late March. In the Urals and Siberia, harvesting is delayed by 2-3 weeks. After clearing debris, plastic covers can be installed over the beds to protect the young seedlings and allow for an early harvest 1.5-2 weeks.

Removing the cover after winter

If your strawberries were covered, don't rush to remove it. Covering them creates a greenhouse effect, and the young shoots may not withstand the sudden temperature change and die. However, don't overexpose them. Otherwise, you risk the plants growing too quickly, and excessive moisture can also cause mold and rot.

Depending on the region, the covering can be removed in mid-April or early May. This procedure should be done gradually. Initially, the agrofibre or film is removed for just half an hour during warm weather, then the time is gradually increased, always covering the plants at night.

If straw, fallen leaves, or other mulch was used as cover, it should be carefully spread around the bushes, and then, after some time, when the strawberries have adapted to natural conditions, it should be completely removed.

This is important! Any remaining mulch must be removed very carefully. Any leftover mulch from last year can cause fungal and infectious diseases.

Watering, loosening, mulching

Loosening the soil in strawberry beds is one of the most important principles of care. The first time, loosening the soil is done as soon as it's slightly dry. This will retain moisture near the roots and improve oxygen access.

This first loosening is the most important. Melting causes the soil to become excessively compacted. Don't miss this time; if you perform the procedure promptly, you can increase your yield by 10-15% with this simple method.

The soil between rows can be loosened to a depth of 10 cm. Be more careful near bushes, otherwise the root system, which is located almost on the surface, may be damaged.

Advice! Finish loosening the soil around the bushes by adding more soil. A small mound should form around each bush.

Watering is also important for the harvest. It should be done as needed, monitoring the soil. If it crumbles in your hands, it's time to harvest, but if it sticks together, it's time to wait.

Before flowering begins, you can water the bushes directly from a hose or watering can; as soon as flowers and ovaries appear, you should only water the soil.

Anyone growing strawberries should be aware of the so-called critical periods during which watering is essential. The first is before flowering, the second after harvest. During these periods, at least a bucket of water should be poured under each bush, but gradually, so that the moisture is absorbed evenly.

Another essential strawberry care technique is mulching. Mulch prevents weeds from growing, retains soil moisture, and prevents the berries from coming into contact with the soil, rotting, and becoming soiled. Mulching also loosens the soil and adds nutrients. Mulched beds also look neater and more attractive.

You can use film, newspapers, dry grass and freshly cut weeds, leaf humus, pine needles, etc. The mulch should be spread in a layer of 4-6 cm.

Mulching is carried out after fertilizing.

Top dressing

Don't rush into feeding your strawberries. Initially, the bushes will have more than enough meltwater; let them absorb as much as possible. Once the leaves have grown well, you can begin fertilizing.

Organic matter is added during garden bed preparation, incorporating it directly into the soil. At 5-8 kg per square meter, this amount will last for approximately 5 years.

In spring, fertilize strawberries with nitrogen (ammonium nitrate, 35 g per square meter) during the first tillage and potassium (potassium sulfate, 30 g per square meter) just before flowering. This will last until fall.

Fertilization can be done dry, by scattering the fertilizer between the rows, or liquid, by dissolving the specified amount in 10 sheets of water and thoroughly watering the soil.

If your strawberries need additional nutrition, you can dissolve 1 part chicken manure in 10 parts water and let it steep for 5-7 days. Then, water each plant with 100 ml.

Trimming

The first leaf pruning is done during an early spring inspection of the bushes. Remove all wilted, frozen, and old leaves at the root. Leave only fresh, green leaves; don't skimp, otherwise you may not get a harvest at all.

The second time, the leaves should be trimmed after fruiting. If the plantings are very large, a complete mow down to the roots is necessary, but indoors, it's best to take a little time and trim only the old, dying leaves. Any leaves showing signs of decay or disease should also be removed, while the new, young ones should be left in place.

This is important! Strawberry pruning should begin with young bushes, gradually moving towards older ones, otherwise there is a risk of spreading spider mites.

After the procedure, it is necessary to fertilize and water thoroughly.

Treatment against diseases and pests

The best cure is prevention, so let's look at these measures first.

For spring spraying of strawberries use:

Zircon. This natural preparation greatly enhances plant immunity;
Fitosporin. Protects against gray mold;
Phytocide. Prevents fungal growth;
Actellic. Eliminates insect pests.

These are broad-spectrum products, and there's also a specially developed product called "Strawberry Rescuer." This product is effective:

stimulates growth and development;
protects against ticks and other pests;
prevents the development of late blight and other strawberry diseases;
creates an environment that is harmful to pest larvae and eggs.

Despite all its advantages, the product is absolutely safe for people, animals and any agricultural crops.

You can also use folk remedies. Even regular potassium permanganate is excellent for protecting strawberries from fungi and pests.

Replanting old bushes

It's generally accepted that strawberry plants should only be replanted in the fall, but spring is also permissible. It's especially advisable to replant old bushes if some didn't survive the winter well and some died. Young rosettes can then be planted in their place, but you need to act quickly, otherwise these plantings may also die.

Transplanting should begin when the young shoots don't yet have leaves. Divide the bush in half, leaving one half in place and transplanting the other into a prepared hole. Then, fertilize with peat moss, and water after two or three days (only if needed).

In a month it will be clear whether the sprout has taken root or not.

How to revive a frozen crop

Not all strawberry plants survive the winter, but don't worry. If a plant dies, it was weakened or diseased. It wouldn't have yielded a good harvest anyway. But if only part of it froze, you need to take immediate steps to revive it.

To do this, dig up the entire bush. Divide it (cut it with a sharp knife) into sections (each should have 2-3 leaves), removing any affected leaves. Then, soak the roots in potassium permanganate for half an hour. Water the prepared hole, mix it with peat moss and compost, and plant the strawberry seedling up to the root ball.

Please note! Avoid planting strawberries too deeply. This increases the risk of root rot.

Care mistakes

Strawberry beds can be ruined not only by diseases and pests, but also by the gardeners themselves. The most common mistakes are:

over-fertilization;
damage to the growth point during pruning of old leaves;
deepening into the soil;
too deep loosening near the bush, which leads to injury to the roots.

Experienced gardeners say that it is better to under-give strawberries attention than to give them too much.

Adviсe

Both beginners and those who have been growing strawberries for years and consider themselves professionals will benefit from the following tips:

Use drip irrigation for strawberries, this will help achieve an optimal level of soil moisture;
When choosing a location for a bed, consider crop rotation principles. Strawberries prefer soil after onions and garlic, beets and carrots, celery, and any greens.
add peat and sand to the soil to make the bed light and airy;
Do not fertilize with manure or other organic matter in the spring; it is better to carry out this procedure in the fall.

Also, make a plan for caring for your strawberries, follow all the steps, and they will definitely thank you with a generous harvest.