Tips for caring for cucumbers in open ground for a large harvest

Gardeners successfully grow cucumbers not only in greenhouses but also in outdoor beds. By providing the plants with proper care and comfortable growing conditions, you can expect an excellent harvest of cucumbers.

Regular watering, timely fertilization, and the use of covering materials in inclement weather—knowing the nuances of this crop's agricultural technology will allow you to harvest cucumbers from the beds by the bucketful.

Choosing a location

The crop has strict requirements for soil fertility and thrives best on chernozem, light loam, and sandy loam soil.

The beds are placed in a sunny, well-heated area where there is no stagnant moisture and groundwater is not close.

The climatic features of the region are taken into account:

• in the middle zone and North-West regions, suitable places are areas on southern slopes, protected from winds and precipitation;
• In the south, flat areas are suitable, light shade is acceptable, but protection from drying winds is also important.

Cucumbers grow best after legumes, onions and leeks, garlic, celery, potatoes, and tomatoes. Crop rotation is essential; cucumbers don't like to grow in the same bed every year.

Warm beds

Heat-loving plants grown outdoors require warmth, adequate nutrition, and moisture. An effective way to grow these plants is to create heated beds, which are recommended to be done in the fall.

A trench up to 40 cm deep and 80-100 cm wide is dug in the center of the bed. Layers of manure and plant residues from the beds (plant tops, weeds) are placed in the trench, sprinkled with a small amount of lime. The entire trench is then covered with soil.

In the spring, as soon as the snow melts and the weather warms up, the remains laid in the trench will begin to rot. The rotting process releases much-needed heat for cucumbers, as well as large amounts of carbon dioxide, essential for photosynthesis.

The bed is dug up, covered with black film to warm it up, and then cucumber seedlings are planted.

Cucumber seedlings are planted in warm beds, and seeds are sown (in southern regions).

Secrets of proper watering

Cucumbers thrive on moisture; for normal growth of cucumbers and green foliage, constant soil moisture is essential. However, excess moisture is depressing, slowing the formation of new shoots and fruits, and reducing the amount of oxygen in the soil.

Regardless of the variety, cucumbers require regular, timely watering. For plants in open beds, rainwater is a good choice, as it contains more nutrients and oxygen than well or tap water.

The watering schedule varies, as many factors are taken into account:

• weather conditions;
• vegetation period;
• condition of plants;
• soil type and condition.

Typically, cucumbers are watered 3 to 5-6 times a week during the summer, while also fertilizing the plants. In hot weather, water daily; on rainy days, the plants receive sufficient moisture from precipitation.

Watering according to growing season:

• during the growth of green mass, water once every 4-5 days, 3-4 liters under each bush;
• during flowering – 4-6 liters as the soil dries out;
• during the fruiting period – 8-10 liters per bush.

For watering, it's advisable to create small grooves near the plants. This will protect the soil from erosion and the plant roots from being exposed.

Cucumbers are watered with warm, settled water at a temperature of 22ºC to 24ºC. Water from a well, spring, or pond must be settled in barrels or tanks, heated, and only then used for irrigation.

During periods of prolonged rainfall, monitor the condition of the plants and the soil moisture level, preventing stem and leaf rot. If necessary, create small drainage channels to allow water to drain more quickly from the beds. Drip irrigation systems are effective, delivering moisture evenly to the plant roots and preventing overwatering.

Strengthening the root system

Cucumbers have a superficial root system, located at a maximum depth of 25-30 cm. The majority of the roots are located in the upper soil layer, at a depth of about 5-6 cm.

The roots are poorly developed, accounting for only 1.5-2% of the plant's total weight. To ensure abundant fruiting, the cucumber plant requires not only adequate nutrition but also strong roots.

There are two techniques used:

• hilling, when soil is carefully added to the stem;
• sprinkling the pressed cucumber stem with soil.

This stimulates the formation of additional roots, strengthens the plant's root system, and reduces the risk of root rot.

After watering, loosen the soil, but do so very carefully to avoid touching or damaging the roots. When loosening, carefully push the vines aside, without turning them over, and then return them to their original location.

An alternative to loosening the soil is mulching, which involves covering the soil with sawdust, hay, straw, rotted manure, or peat. Mulch retains moisture, prevents crust formation, and inhibits weed growth.

Humus used as mulch additionally saturates the soil with nitrogen and improves soil aeration.

Fertilizing: Basic Rules for Growing Cucumbers

A cucumber harvest is impossible without providing the crop with adequate nutrition. Even if the beds were previously fertilized with organic or mineral fertilizers, the plants must be fed during the growing season.

The total number of fertilizing applications should be at least 3-4 times, alternating root feedings with foliar sprays. Foliar feeding is effective in cold weather, when roots have a difficult time absorbing nutrients, and the plant will receive all the necessary elements more quickly through the leaves.

1. The first feeding is a week after planting the seedlings. Feed the cucumbers with a diluted mullein (1:10) or urea (one tablespoon of fertilizer per bucket is sufficient). The recommended dose per plant is 0.5 liters.
2. After 8-10 days – the next feeding: dilute urea (10-15 grams), potassium sulfate (15 grams), superphosphate (50 grams) in ten liters of water.
3. It is recommended to feed cucumbers with the same mixture during the flowering period.
4. During the initial fruiting period and further, as the cucumbers are harvested, fertilizing is carried out once every 10 days, using potassium and nitrogen fertilizers.
5. For spraying during the flowering period, use a urea solution: add 15 grams of fertilizer to 10 liters of water. Apply to cucumbers early in the morning or late in the evening to prevent leaf burn.
6. During the flowering and fruiting periods, cucumbers benefit from a "green" fertilizer. Fill a container or barrel two-thirds full with nettles, dandelion, and comfrey, fill to the top with water, and seal tightly. Let the mixture steep for a week, stirring every other day. Then dilute the mixture with water (1:10) and water the cucumbers at the roots. This fertilizer promotes new shoot growth, fruit set, and rapid cucumber development.

The appearance of cucumbers can be used to determine which nutrients the plant lacks or, on the contrary, whether there is an excess.

Nitrogen deficiency

Plant growth slows, leaves lose their vibrancy. Shoots become thinner, green leaves become shorter, and leaf blades become smaller.

They add mullein and urea.

Potassium deficiency

The main symptom is the appearance of yellow spots on the leaves, while the veins remain green. Magnesium deficiency affects plant growth and delays the development of cucumbers.

Wood ash and potassium magnesium are added to cucumbers.

Potassium deficiency

A wide yellow border forms on old leaf blades, young leaves become smaller, and the green leaves acquire a bitter taste.

Add wood ash and potassium sulfate, and treat the bushes on the leaves with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Phosphorus deficiency

A deficiency of this essential element in plants isn't immediately noticeable. Cucumber growth gradually slows, leaf blades become dark green and dense, and watery spots appear on the surface.

Add superphosphate (approximately 40 grams per 1 m2) and any other potassium-phosphorus fertilizers (nitrophoska).

To prevent cucumber starvation and a deficiency of essential macro- and micronutrients, it is recommended to feed seedlings and young plants with special combination formulations. These include:

• Agricola No. 5 (for zucchini, cucumbers and squash;
• Ideal;
• Master.

In unfavorable weather conditions, watering cucumbers at the roots with humates gives a good effect:

• During prolonged rains, sodium humate is useful;
• In hot, dry weather, potassium humate is used.

Humic preparations increase plant resistance to stress, do not accumulate in the soil, and are harmless to humans.

Formation of cucumbers

Traditionally, it was believed that shoot shaping (pinching) was only done on cucumbers grown in greenhouses. However, to increase the number of cucumber ovaries, pinching is also done on cucumbers grown in the garden.

Lateral shoots take nutrients from developing fruits, and the plant wastes a lot of energy, so it is recommended to pinch off cucumber vines in the garden bed.

When forming, the following is taken into account:

• characteristics of cucumber varieties and hybrids;
• ripening periods.

Early ripening cucumbers do not require pinching, but for mid-season and late-ripening varieties, pinching is mandatory.

For varietal cucumbers in the beds:

• pinch the main stem above the 5-6 leaf;
• pinch off lateral shoots that have reached 20-25 cm.

In hybrids:

• along the entire length of the stem up to 50-60 cm in height, all inflorescences, ovaries, and rudimentary shoots are removed;
• on a stem from 60 to 100 cm, only one leaf and ovary are left;
• higher up, up to 150-160 cm, two leaves and two ovaries are left.

Pruning is essential because it increases the yield of cucumbers, improves flavor, and reduces the risk of disease. Without pinching, the stems that grow along the surface of the bed become intertwined, making cucumber care difficult.

Gartering cucumbers in open beds

The issue of shaping cucumbers is related to the topic of tying the bushes in the garden bed. Some gardeners grow cucumbers spread out, while others believe that even in a garden bed, as in a greenhouse, trellises are required.

Indeed, tying cucumbers to a trellis has its advantages:

• there is no dampness;
• vertically tied bushes are evenly illuminated by the sun;
• ventilation of plants is improved;
• the risk of rot and bacterial disease is reduced;
• green cucumbers ripen faster;

the fruiting period of the crop increases.

A garden bed with trellises looks neat and beautiful, and the yield from such plantings is higher.

What to do if cucumbers are not pollinated

The problem arises with bee-pollinated varieties when there are few bees in the field, and the ovaries are left unpollinated. As a result, the overall yield decreases.

Artificial pollination, using a regular brush, can help remedy the situation. During flowering, the bushes produce both female flowers (with a small, undeveloped fruit at the base) and male flowers. For pollination to occur, pollen from the stamens of the male flowers must fall onto the pistil of the female flowers, which is transferred using a brush.

If the process is successful, the fruit at the base of the flower will develop, turning into a full-fledged cucumber. For plants grown on trellises, a simpler option is to gently shake the vines to release the pollen.

Protection from diseases

To prevent infections from appearing in the garden, it is necessary to follow agricultural practices:

• do not exceed the dose of fertilizers;
• control soil moisture;
• water the cucumbers with warm water;
• plant seedlings taking into account the distances between bushes.

The main diseases of cucumbers in garden beds:

• anthracnose;
• root rot;
• powdery mildew.

Cool weather, prolonged rains, dense plant growth, and a large number of weeds contribute to the development of diseases.

Anthracnose

The main cause of infection is high humidity. Plant stems turn yellow and dry out, and yellow spots appear on the leaf blades. Formed cucumbers turn yellow, and rotting pinkish spots appear on the skin.

Help with such an infection must be provided promptly, for which the bushes are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture (1%).

Powdery mildew

Causes: high humidity, heavy dew, cool temperatures (below 18ºC…20ºC). Small whitish spots appear on the surface of the plant's leaf blades, gradually covering the entire leaf. The plant dries up and dies.

Heavily affected bushes are removed from the bed, the rest are sprayed with special compounds:

• mullein infusion (1:10);
• Bordeaux mixture (1%);
• Topaz, Jet preparations (use according to instructions);
• whey diluted in water (1:10).

Root rot

Causes: use of infected seeds, presence of disease pathogens in the soil in the garden bed, temperature fluctuations.

Cucumber leaves wilt during the day, regaining their elasticity in the evening. The lower part of the stem turns brown, then rots, turning into dust. The roots die, followed by the complete death of the entire plant.

For treatment, use Fitosporin-M and Effecton, and add Baktofit and copper-containing Hom to the soil.

Protecting cucumbers in the garden from pests

From midsummer, aphids appear in cucumber beds, feeding on the plant's sap. As a result, the leaves curl and dry out, and the ovaries fall off.

Control measures:

1. Spray the bushes with an infusion of onion peels and garlic with the addition of laundry soap. Add 100-150 grams of peels or 40-50 grams of crushed garlic cloves to a bucket of warm water. Let it steep for several hours, add shavings or liquid soap, stir, leave for 24 hours, and then apply to the leaves and stems.
2. Wood ash infusion treatment. Add a liter of ash to ten liters of water, let it steep, and then add shavings of laundry soap and spray the cucumbers.
3. Tobacco dust infusion. You'll need 200 grams of tobacco, a bucket of warm water, and some soap shavings. Mix all ingredients, let it steep for 5-6 hours, and then apply to the plants.

Treating cucumber plants with Actellic helps prevent spider mites. Folk remedies include infusions of celandine, dandelion, and horse sorrel. Place the herbs (approximately 300-400 grams) in a bucket, add warm water, let them steep, and then apply them to the cucumber beds.

Harvesting

The long-awaited moment for gardeners is harvesting, but even here certain rules must be followed.

1. During peak fruiting, cucumbers are harvested every day or every other day. This increases the number of new ovaries, and the cucumbers don't overgrow or become overripe.
2. All fruits are removed, including damaged ones.
3. The best time to pick cucumbers is early morning. They are juicier at this time, as the pulp contains more water.
4. When harvesting, carefully reposition the vines, taking care not to break the shoots. Remove any damaged, yellow, or dried stems.
5. The cucumbers on the bushes on the trellises ripen faster, so they are picked every day.

Helpful tips for increasing cucumber yields

Gardeners have accumulated many "secrets" for increasing the number of cucumbers in their beds, and they do not limit themselves to just shaping the bushes or fertilizing.

We offer a number of useful tips:

1. You can increase yield by "scaring" cucumbers. At the beginning of flowering, temporarily stop watering the plants, creating a stressful situation for them. In response, the plants begin to actively form ovaries and cucumbers.
2. Planting different varieties and hybrids in beds improves pollination processes and, as a result, increases the yield.
3. To attract bees to the plot for better pollination of cucumbers, they place bowls with sweet syrup and plant honey plants next to the cucumbers.
4. Treatment of cucumbers during the flowering period with stimulants Zircon, Zavyaz, Epin.
5. Planting celery, cabbage, and peas next to cucumber beds is recommended. These crops have a beneficial effect on cucumber growth, ultimately resulting in a high yield.
6. Water the cucumbers with water mixed with apple cider vinegar. For a 200-liter barrel, add 1.5-2 cups of the mixture, mix, and water the cucumbers.

Proper care and attention are the key to harvesting cucumbers from your garden. By following proper agricultural practices and protecting your plants from infections and pests, you're sure to get delicious cucumbers and see that harvesting buckets of cucumbers isn't a fantasy.