Caring for peppers in a greenhouse and in open ground

Peppers, a heat-loving crop, require proper care to achieve high yields. However, in most regions of Russia, due to the harsh climate, this crop is grown in greenhouses and under cover.

Open ground is a privilege of the southern regions, where you can choose your sweet pepper varieties without restrictions. For the central part of the country, and especially for regions such as the Urals, Northwest, and Siberia, it's recommended to choose early-ripening varieties that are weather-resistant. However, during favorable seasons, gardeners in these regions also reap handsome pepper harvests from open beds, provided they practice proper agricultural practices.

Peppers in open ground or greenhouse – description

Peppers are a long-growing crop, so they're grown from seedlings before deciding on a permanent location. They can be grown directly in garden beds, choosing a sunny, wind-protected spot, or under awnings covered with plastic or non-woven fabric. Everything depends on climate conditions, variety, and care. We'll cover the specifics of care in both open ground and greenhouses.

Care instructions after planting in the ground

Having decided to grow peppers in open-air beds, a suitable location is determined in advance and the area is prepared.

Selecting a location and preparing the soil

The beds should be located in a sunny area, with only partial shade allowed. The soil should be fertile, loose, moisture-retentive, and permeable. Peppers prefer neutral or slightly acidic soils, but beds with acidic soil are not suitable.

To neutralize acidity in overly acidic soils, add wood ash and slaked lime. Moss (preferably from peat bogs) can help alter the acidity of alkaline soils.

The beds are dug over in the fall, and rotted manure is added at the same time (approximately 5-6 kg per square meter). Phosphorus and potassium supplements are recommended for addition during spring digging.

Crop rotation is essential, returning peppers to the same location no sooner than after 4 years. They should not be grown after crops such as:

• potato;
• eggplants;
• tomatoes.

These are all crops related to peppers, part of the vast nightshade family. They share the same diseases, so there's a high risk that peppers could pick up an infection from the vegetables that grew in the same bed before them. However, they should be grown after pumpkins, legumes, all types of cabbage, and cucumbers.

Transplanting

Peppers are planted in the ground only when stable warm weather sets in. The soil should warm to 14ºC…16ºC (at a depth of 10 cm), and in many regions, this doesn't happen until early June. Planting can also be done in the last week of May, depending on the weather and climate.

Gardeners in the Northwest and Siberia typically play it safe, and while they plant peppers in greenhouses a little earlier, there's no need to rush into open beds. A few days won't be critical, but at least your seedlings will be protected from potential cold snaps.

To ensure successful adaptation, peppers begin hardening off approximately 10-14 days before the move. They are acclimated to the outdoor temperature and sunlight. Initially, the peppers are exposed to the air for approximately 15-30 minutes, gradually increasing their time outdoors to several hours.

When planting, it's best to use the transshipment method, removing the peppers from their containers (cups, boxes) along with the root ball. If the seedlings were grown in peat pots or homemade paper cups, they should be planted directly into the holes. The seedlings should be approximately 55-60 days old.

Dig holes in the bed, maintaining the planting distance and pattern. It is recommended to grow peppers according to the variety and plant height:

• for low-growing plants, you can leave up to 20 cm between plants;
• medium-sized peppers grow at a distance of up to 30-35 cm from each other;
• Tall varieties and hybrids will need to be left at 40 to 60 cm.

Typically, low-growing pepper varieties are grown in raised beds, but it's important to ensure proper support is installed in advance. The holes are watered with warm, settled water, allowing the soil to absorb the moisture slightly. The plants are then planted in the holes, ensuring that the root collar is level with the soil. It's not recommended to plant the peppers too deep; it's best to plant them at the same level they were growing in their pots.

The soil around the stem is carefully compacted; this can be done immediately, or after two days, the soil surface can be mulched with hay, rotted compost, bark, or chopped straw.

Protection from cold and heat

It's best to choose a cloudy day for planting to avoid the sun's rays during the first few hours. If this isn't possible, schedule the work for the evening. After planting, the peppers should be lightly shaded, and the best option is to use non-woven fabric.

This material will provide comfortable conditions for planted seedlings, protect them from the hot sun, and, if necessary, from cold snaps. Many gardeners install arches on the beds and then cover them with agril, lutrasil, or spunbond.

Peppers aren't watered for about a week, and only after 6-7 days can the soil be irrigated. However, everything depends on the weather and the condition of the plants themselves; these recommendations are general, and each situation requires a personalized approach.

Watering

To ensure juicy and tasty peppers, proper watering is essential. This is especially important for garden plants, as rainfall is unscheduled, requiring careful monitoring of plant health and soil moisture.

If there's regular rainfall, watering may be unnecessary. Peppers are typically watered every 5-6 days; after fruiting, more frequent watering is possible, but only when the soil dries out. For those whose work schedules only allow them to visit their plot on weekends, mulching is recommended. This will protect the plants from drought, maintain normal soil moisture levels, and eliminate weeds. A mulch layer of 6 to 10 cm is applied, and additional mulch (hay, sawdust, or peat) is added as the thickness decreases.

Water only with warm, settled water. During frequent rainfall, loosen the soil to prevent moisture stagnation.

Weeding and loosening

If you don't mulch, the soil around your peppers should be carefully loosened. Since most of the root system is located in the topsoil, loosen the soil very carefully, being careful not to disturb the plant's roots.

After watering, a crust forms on the soil, which slows down air penetration, negatively impacting plant roots. Regular, gentle loosening breaks up the crust, provides oxygen to the soil, and promotes better root development, which in turn promotes the plant's growth.

Some gardeners hill up their pepper plants during the budding and mass flowering period. Hilling not only removes the crust but also gets rid of pesky weeds. In open ground (especially after rain), weeds grow very quickly and, without weeding, can choke out the peppers. Therefore, it's important to regularly loosen and weed the soil, or, even better, use mulch.

Top dressing

With well-fertilized soil in the beds, peppers will have sufficient nutrition at first. However, it is still recommended to fertilize them several times thereafter. Typically, plants are fertilized 3-4 times per season using organic matter, wood ash, complex fertilizers, or ready-made formulas.

The first feeding should be done no earlier than 12-14 days after planting in a permanent location. You can use mullein diluted in water or bird droppings (1:10 or 1:20).

During the flowering period, superphosphate and potassium humate are suitable. If using superphosphate, it is recommended to crush it first. For the third feeding (14 days after the second), infuse the ash; you can also feed the peppers with a superphosphate infusion. The proportions are: approximately two cups of ash per bucket, and two tablespoons of superphosphate is sufficient.

An excellent "lunch" for peppers is an herbal infusion, most often using nettles. Chop the herbs, place them halfway in a container, fill to the top with warm water, and seal. Let it steep for about 3-4 days, then dilute the infusion with water (a liter per bucket) and water the peppers. This infusion is also suitable for eggplants and tomatoes. Ash can be added to the mixture.

By observing the plants, you can determine which nutrients are lacking in the peppers' nutrition. If nitrogen is insufficient, peppers grow poorly, and the leaves are small, light green, and have a matte gray tint.

A potassium deficiency can cause pepper leaves to dry out and curl, while a phosphorus deficiency can cause purple spots on the undersides of the leaves. If these changes occur, promptly apply a suitable fertilizer.

In addition to being a fertilizer, wood ash is also used to repel pests and prevent various diseases. In open ground, peppers are harmed by aphids and spider mites, and slugs attack in the evening. Garlic infusion for spraying, ash infusions and dusting, mustard powder, and a mixture of ash and tobacco dust scattered between rows are simple yet effective methods of pest prevention and control.

Caring for peppers in a greenhouse

In short, cool summers, it's difficult to provide peppers with favorable conditions outdoors. Without warmth, it's difficult to hope for a good harvest of this capricious and highly heat-loving crop. Greenhouses are a lifesaver, with gardeners even in regions like Siberia and the Northwest achieving excellent results.

Growing sweet peppers in greenhouses is little different from caring for plants in the open ground. The basic techniques are the same, but the following should be taken into account:

1. Regular watering (in a greenhouse, providing plants with moisture falls entirely on the gardener);
2. Ventilating the shelters. In greenhouses, temperatures can become very high on hot days, and humidity can be equally high. Peppers grow poorly in such conditions, so it's necessary to open vents, doors, and windows to carefully ventilate the plants.
3. It's essential to replace the topsoil in greenhouses every season, and disinfect the soil and all shelter supports. Over the course of many years, greenhouses accumulate harmful microorganisms, which can be detrimental to plants. Therefore, treating greenhouses with special disinfectants is mandatory for everyone.
4. A greenhouse is a convenient place to grow tall peppers, using trellises as supports. Wire or twine can be stretched across the frames, and as the peppers grow, they will support themselves. If you don't want to use trellises, make stakes and tie the pepper stems to them with wide cotton ribbon.

5. If you're harvesting your own pepper seeds at the end of summer, plant hot and sweet varieties in separate greenhouses.

6. When growing tall peppers in greenhouses, shaping the plants is essential. This involves pinching them, trimming excess side shoots, lower leaves, and the central (crown) bud.
7. The undulating nature of the harvest also dictates the specifics of pepper harvesting. It's best to harvest the first fruits in greenhouses at the technical maturity stage. This allows subsequent fruits to develop and grow, and overall increases yield. The second wave of fruits can be left to ripen on the plant.

Frequency of watering in a greenhouse

For plants in a greenhouse, it is necessary to provide comfortable growing conditions:

• sufficient amount of moisture;
• warm;
• lighting;
• nutrition.

Peppers can receive ample rainfall in garden beds, but in a greenhouse, water 1-2 times every 7 days. It's recommended to maintain a regular watering schedule, increasing the amount during flowering. However, it's important to avoid overwatering the soil, as indoor conditions immediately increase humidity.

After watering, ventilate the greenhouse and loosen the soil the following day. Again, as in open ground, mulching the soil is recommended for higher yields. If possible, a drip irrigation system can be installed in the greenhouse.

Peppers are watered very carefully, being careful not to splash water on the leaves or buds. The water temperature should be around 22ºC, and regardless of where the water comes from—a well, a pond, or rainwater—it should be settled. Excessive soil moisture leads to pepper diseases, which always means unnecessary hassle, the use of various pesticides, and possible crop losses. Adherence to the watering schedule and all agricultural practices will prevent problems.

Using fertilizers for peppers in a greenhouse when growing in a greenhouse

Another important condition for producing a harvest in a greenhouse is fertilizing peppers. Properly managed nutrition, ensuring peppers receive all the necessary nutrients, ensures normal plant development and boosts immunity. Greenhouse peppers are fed 3-5 times per season, depending on soil fertility and the condition of the plants. Tall, productive hybrids require more nutrition, so prepare mullein (bird manure can be used) and complex fertilizers in advance.

As in open ground, the first feeding should be done with organic matter no earlier than two weeks after planting the peppers. Urea (made into an aqueous solution, 4-5 grams per bucket of water) and dry nitrophoska are also acceptable.

The second feeding should include phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, along with an ash solution. This should be done during fruiting, carefully observing the dosage of all components. It's advisable to combine fertilization and watering to ensure better nutrient absorption by the peppers.

Foliar feeding of peppers on the leaves also gives a good effect, so many gardeners use:

1. urea solution (one teaspoon per bucket of water will be enough);
2. superphosphate (processed with a mixture of two teaspoons per bucket of water);
3. boric acid (take a bucket of water and dissolve one teaspoon of the product in it).

Foliar feeding is especially convenient if plants require additional micronutrients. When applied to the roots, they are absorbed more slowly and poorly, but foliar application produces faster results. If peppers are growing normally, blooming, and producing a harvest, spraying may be unnecessary. These recommendations are intended to help you organize proper care and address any issues that arise.

Following all the necessary techniques, maintaining optimal temperature conditions, and understanding certain characteristics of the crop will allow you to grow peppers even in risky farming regions. Incidentally, the experience of many gardeners only confirms this.

Reviews

Irina, Nefteyugansk

There's a lot of talk about how impossible it is to grow peppers outdoors in our area. But due to limited space in the greenhouse (I grow eggplants and tomatoes there), I always plant peppers in the garden. But I always cover them with lutrasil, and it's fine; some even ripen right on the vine.

I start the seedlings in small cups, then transplant them (without transplanting) into larger cups. I keep the beds warm and plant the peppers only in June. If it's not particularly warm, I also use plastic wrap on hoops. I have two harvests every year, but I only plant early varieties. I select varieties that are good for both lecho and stuffing.

Ksenia, Pskov

This is my second year growing peppers in a specially built greenhouse. Before, I'd have them growing anywhere, wherever there was a free space. But finally, my husband got around to building a greenhouse for peppers, so we made one. This is my second year growing 40 plants. I had a California Miracle, two Dutch hybrids. Miracles are very productive and large. I learned that you need to remove the first bud, so I'll do that this year. I fed them manure and added ash. I haven't tried growing peppers outdoors here; summers can be too unpredictable. Tomatoes (baby ones) grow tall in the greenhouse, and I plant the shorter ones in the garden.

Sergey, Ulyanovsk region

Sweet peppers are one of my favorite vegetables. I've gained experience growing them both in garden beds and in a greenhouse over many years. The harvests are always good, but to achieve this, you need to know a few secrets.

If your peppers aren't producing buds for a long time, it's likely because there's too much nitrogen in the soil. You should immediately spray them with superphosphate; you can also use Zavyaz or Bud. It's also important to monitor the temperature in the greenhouse. In hot weather, it can get above 30 degrees Celsius, so the peppers will bloom, but won't produce buds. You need to ventilate the greenhouse and spray with the same products (Zavyaz or Bud).