Streptocarpus are becoming increasingly popular in our country, and many gardeners prefer them. However, when growing streptocarpus, care must be taken with caution. Ignoring certain characteristics of these indoor plants can quickly lead to their death, as they are often susceptible to various diseases and pests.
Characteristics of streptocarpus and names of species
Streptocarpus is a rosette-type plant. It has a shortened, spreading stem and wrinkled, slightly pubescent leaves reaching 30 cm in length and 8 cm in width. The coloring can be solid green or variegated. Six to ten tall (up to 25 cm) and sturdy flower stalks form in the axils of each leaf. The diameter of the funnel-shaped tubular corolla varies by variety and ranges from 2 to 9 cm. The number of flowers varies, and the coloring is varied.
You can appreciate the richness of species (about 130-140) from the photos with the names of some of them:
The main pride of the snow-white Steptocarpus is its lush flowering.
Streptocarpus wendlandii has just one leaf, a rich emerald hue, growing almost a meter. It flowers and bears fruit in the second year, then dies.
Streptocarpus johansii is capable of covering itself with 3 dozen bluish-purple flowers.
Streptocarpus rexii (royal) is the progenitor of subsequent hybrid forms. Its flowers resemble drooping tubes with five curved petals.
Streptocarpus kirkii is a prostrate, stem-type member of the genus. It bushes profusely, grows no more than 15 cm tall, and produces light purple flowers.
Streptocarpus primulafolia is a rosette species. A stem up to 25 cm tall can bear only up to four flowers. The petals have various patterns, streaks, and spots.
The drooping stems of the rock streptocarpus grow up to 50 cm. The downward-hanging bluish flowers resemble those of the Saintpaulia.
Streptocarpus is a stem-forming plant, like Kirka, creeping, but reaches 50-60 cm in height. The flowers are small, light blue.
Streptocarpus holstii has flexible and fleshy shoots reaching 50 cm. The leaf blades are wrinkled and pubescent, and the small (about 3 cm) flowers are purple in color with a white corolla tube.
You may be interested in:Features of caring for streptocarpus at home
It's entirely possible to create comfortable conditions for this plant at home. You just need to consider the proper agricultural practices.
Lighting
Streptocarpus prefer plenty of filtered light. In summer, they thrive near windows facing west and east, as well as north, and in winter, south.
Temperature and humidity
Although the plant is native to the tropics and subtropics, it does not tolerate heat well. Placement close to heating devices is undesirable, and temperatures above 30°C weaken the plant's protective properties and encourage disease. A comfortable temperature range is 15-25°C (optimally 24°C). As the temperature rises, so should the air humidity. In winter, it is recommended to provide cool conditions (standard varieties thrive at 15-18°C, while hybrid varieties thrive at 18-20°C). Streptocarpus tolerate daily temperature fluctuations from 5 to 25°C. Drafts and a little coolness will not harm them.
Streptocarpus prefer humidity levels of 55-75%. It's recommended to mist the surrounding area rather than the plant itself. Flower pots can be placed in a tray filled with moistened expanded clay, moss, or river pebbles. Evaporation from nearby containers will provide additional humidity.
Watering and fertilizing
Watering should be regular but moderate. The water should be soft, settled, and ideally 2-3 degrees warmer than the room temperature. Overwatering leads to root rot. Excessive drying out is also harmful. However, short-term dry periods will help prevent rot.
Streptocarpus requires regular fertilization. An exception is made during the winter dormant period (if the plant is kept in cool conditions and with low light), when fertilization is not necessary.
Complex fertilizers for flowering plants are recommended. They should be applied during watering. Water-soluble fertilizers such as Master and Kemira-Lux, as well as liquid Etisso, have proven effective. Overfeeding can be harmful, so the recommended dosage should be halved. The interval between fertilizing is 10-12 days.
Propagation and transplantation of streptocarpus at home
Streptocarpus can be propagated by seeds, division of the mother bush and cuttings.
Growing from seeds
The best time for sowing is early spring. In winter, seedlings require additional artificial light.
You'll need small containers with holes in the bottom. Place drainage and a substrate made of sand and peat (or peat, vermiculite, and perlite). Spread the small seeds evenly over the surface. Then, without covering them, spray them with a pink solution of potassium permanganate, cover with a transparent, perforated material, and place them in a warm (20-23°C) and well-lit area. Ventilate the mini greenhouse periodically, and moisten the substrate with a spray bottle if necessary.
Seedlings can be expected within two weeks. It's best to remove the cover only after 10 days. But first, you should temporarily open and close the lid or film to allow the young plants to acclimate to the indoor climate.
Strong seedlings with beautiful leaves can be planted in separate shallow pots up to 7 cm in diameter with drainage and store-bought soil for flowering houseplants or a homemade soil mixture (breathable leaf mold, peat, perlite, moss, and vermiculite).
Flowering of plants grown from seeds can be observed after 10-12 months.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_JiBCLtezY
By dividing the bush
Increasing the number of flowering specimens is quite easy this way. The overgrown bush should be watered, removed from the pot, the existing flower stalks removed, and divided with a sharp tool or by hand. Each section should have several leaves and a thickened rhizome. The cuts should be dried and treated with crushed charcoal.
After half an hour, the cuttings can be transplanted (up to the root collar) into individual 7-cm diameter pots with a light, porous, and slightly moist substrate and drainage. They should remain in a well-lit greenhouse for a month to a month and a half. Flowering usually occurs within 2-3 months.
You may be interested in:Cuttings
The leaf blade should be cut from the bush and the petiole trimmed. After this area has dried, the leaf petiole should be planted vertically in loose soil and covered with a transparent material. The plant will need a bright, warm spot to grow. The mini greenhouse should be periodically ventilated and condensation removed. Once the plant has established itself, it should be "transferred" to a permanent pot.
Propagation by cuttings from leaf blades is permitted. Use a razor blade to cut the leaf into 50 mm-wide strips perpendicular to the midrib. The upper and lower parts of the leaf are discarded; the remaining parts should be planted at a 45-degree angle in soil furrows, base down, with at least 30 mm between each. Cover the container with the cuttings with a transparent cover and place them in a humid location with a temperature of 20-25°C and long daylight hours. Watering through the tray and daily ventilation are necessary. Shoots will appear in 6-8 weeks.
Transfer
Repotting is recommended in late winter or early spring. Young plants need it annually, while mature plants need it every 3-4 years. Fill a shallow pot with a loose soil mixture and transfer the streptocarpus plant along with its root ball. Next, fill the empty spaces with soil and compact it lightly.
Diseases and pests of streptocarpus
The main cause of streptocarpus diseases is overwatering. This causes gray mold, root rot, and, if the bush is dense, powdery mildew.
Powdery mildew thrives at low temperatures (below 15°C), poor air circulation, and high humidity (60-80%). A snow-white, powdery coating appears on the leaves. Affected areas should be removed immediately. The top layer of soil should also be replaced and the entire area treated with antifungal agents.
Gray mold appears on plants as brown spots with grayish, fluffy mycelium. High nitrogen concentrations in plant tissue can contribute to the development of this rot. Damaged parts should be removed, growing conditions restored, and everything treated with fungicides.
If leaves lose turgor and develop brown spots, and petioles darken, root rot is caused by excess moisture and poor soil. Ensure optimal care and treat the plant with biological products once or twice at 10-day intervals.
Although diseases cause more trouble for owners of these flowers than pests, thrips and scale insects can still be a challenge. To control thrips, you need to:
- During the flowering period, remove all buds and flowers;
- Treat the above-ground part of the plant and the soil surface with an insecticide 3 times at intervals of 1 time per week.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BKvGg-9vrOw
To eliminate scale insects, you need to:
- Use a soft toothbrush or something similar with a soap solution to clean the leaves;
- treat everything with Aktara solution (the procedure can be repeated after 10 days).
You may be interested in:Frequently asked questions about growing
Steptocarpus care isn't particularly difficult, but care must be taken, especially with moderation in watering. If you provide the plant with good diffused light, fertilizer during the growing season, and optimal temperature and humidity, it will delight you with its blooms for a very long time. Moreover, it's easy to propagate plants at home using any method you prefer.
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