Charlie Grapes: Characteristics and Description of the Variety, Planting and Care

Grapes, previously considered a southern crop, have begun to be successfully grown in colder climates. One variety suitable for the central zone is the Charlie (Anthracite) grape. This hybrid is resistant to fungal infections, weather fluctuations, and, importantly, easy to cultivate. This variety is popular among grape growers not only for these qualities but also for its flavor.

Features of the variety

The hybrid was developed from the well-known domestic varieties Nadezhda AZOS and Victoria. The first seedling trials took place in the southern regions of Belarus, and the variety subsequently proved successful in the Black Sea region and some areas of central Russia. It was added to the State Register of the Russian Federation in 2015 as the Anthracite variety. This hybrid form currently has two names, but "Charlie" is better known.

Characteristics of the bush

A distinctive feature of Charlie is the ability of the vine to fully ripen by the beginning of autumn, and for regions where summers are short, this fact is important - mature vines will survive the winter well.

A single vine can produce up to seven ovaries, but this number may not fully ripen, so it's recommended to leave no more than two clusters. The vine is strong and can handle more, but ripening will be significantly delayed, and in cool weather, the berries will not have time to fully ripen.

The leaves are light green and slightly pubescent. Pollination does not require the presence of other plants in the area—the flowers are bisexual.

This variety is mid-season, with a growing season of 105-115 days. The fruits reach their maximum sugar content (18-22%) over a longer period of time; the berries' rich color does not yet indicate full ripeness.

Already in the second year, several clusters weighing about 1 kg can ripen on the bush, and the yield of an adult bush is 15-20 kg.

In cold winters, the vine can withstand temperatures of -24°C to -25°C and can recover from spring frosts or exposure to adverse factors such as hail or heavy rain. In regions prone to severe frosts, it's advisable to cover the plantings for the winter to ensure their survival in extremely low temperatures.

Like other varieties, Charlie is susceptible to fungal and other infections, but what is characteristic of it is that timely prevention can completely eliminate infection.

Characteristics of fruits

Each grape variety has distinctive berry characteristics, which are fundamental when choosing planting and growing materials. Charlie grapes are characterized by the following characteristics:

• the brush has an irregular shape, most often irregularly conical;
• ovoid berries (5-9g) are loosely arranged in a bunch – medium looseness;
• bunch length 35-40 cm, weight – 700-900 g;
• the color of the dense skin is dark blue;
• dense pulp with 2-3 seeds is very juicy;
• taste characteristics are rated at 8.4 points out of 10 possible, acidity is 7-4 g/l;
• when transported over long distances, the fruits are well preserved;
• taste qualities are not lost during long-term storage;
• Use: table variety, suitable for making wines and canning.

Advantages and disadvantages

Among the mid-season varieties, Charlie has a number of advantages that make it stand out:

• stable yield rate;
• the bunches ripen evenly;
• excellent transportability;
• presentation;
• Can be grown in small and large areas;
• good immunity to diseases and pests;
• the berries are almost the same size, there are no peas;
• high resistance to frost, spring temperature changes and high humidity;
• various applications (storage, canning, juice and wine making).

Experts do not find any significant drawbacks, except for the presence of a nightshade taste in unripe fruits.

Site and soil requirements

A correctly selected site is the key to good bush growth and, ultimately, high yields.

Light plays a crucial role in fruit set and ripening, so the plot should be sunny and away from drafts. The best option is a site near a fence or building facing south. On sloping plots, choose a southern or southwest-facing slope with a south-north orientation.

If it is not possible to plant grapes near a building, you can specially build a fence (east-west direction), 1.8-2 m high - this will create conditions for good lighting and protect from the winds.

It is also worth considering the following fact: after previous plantings of grapes in this place, vines can be planted only after 3 years.

The variety has no particular soil preferences, but it's important to avoid stagnant water in the area—the groundwater level should be no higher than 1.5 meters. Higher groundwater levels can result in insufficient oxygen for the roots.

It is not advisable to plant crops nearby that require more moisture than grapes.

Selection and preparation of planting material

A good, strong seedling creates the foundation for the growth of a strong and vigorous vine. It's best to purchase it with a closed root system (in a container) from garden centers or nurseries that provide information about the variety and growing conditions.

When examining a seedling bush, you need to pay attention to the height of the shoots (50-60 cm) and the presence of 2-3 elastic roots.

Preparing planting material at home

The procedure for preparing planting material consists of several stages.

Stage 1:

• in the fall, on a strong and developed vine, 8-10 mm thick and with 10 cm internodes, remove leaves and side shoots;
• cut cuttings from it 50-60 cm long with 3-4 eyes;
• soak the cuttings in a pink solution of potassium permanganate, dry and place in water for 24 hours;
• wrap the cuttings in film and put them in a cool place with a temperature of 0°- +2°C.

Stage 2 (late February - early March):

• place the cuttings in water for 48 hours;
• make cuts with a sharp instrument 2 cm above the upper eye and 3-5 mm below the lower eye - this technique promotes rapid germination;
• after this, cut off the lower bud and dip the upper one into melted paraffin (60°-70°C) and immediately into cold water (this method protects against bacteria);
• On the bark, without touching the wood, make 4 cuts 3 cm long.

Stage 3 (cutting before the roots sprout delays the opening of the buds):

• at the bottom, tie the cutting with a damp cloth and wrap it in film;
• place the seedling on the windowsill with the top part towards the glass and the bottom part above the radiator;
• Roots will appear after 2 weeks.

How to plant seedlings

Holes should be dug in advance every 2 m, keeping the row spacing at 2.5-3 m.

Add a 10-15 cm layer of drainage material to a wide, deep hole (70 x 80 cm), then top it with a nutrient mixture (1 kg each of ash and double superphosphate, plus 16-20 kg of humus and soil). Cover the mixture with 3-4 buckets of soil and water.

After the water has been absorbed, make a small mound of soil, place the seedling on it (the cut end should be 50 cm below the soil level), cover it with soil and compact it lightly.

Caring for plantings

Watering begins in April, around mid-month, and continues until November. Watering can be done at the roots and in shallow (20 cm) grooves around the stem. The recommended watering rate per bush throughout the growing season is 10-15 liters.

Fertilization

Rapid vine growth and a large number of ovaries require regular fertilizing:

1. Early April and the period of ovary formation: cow manure (10 kg) + bird droppings (5 kg) + water (40 l). Let sit for a week and add another 10 l of water. The norm is 10 l per plant.
2. After flowering – ammonium nitrate (10 g per 1 m²).
3. Early fruit ripening: superphosphate (30 g) + nitrophoska (20 g) + ash (50 g) + water (10 l). The rate is 5 l per bush.
4. After harvesting, scatter dry cow manure (5-7 kg) near the bush.

Garter

In the second year of growth, tie the vine to a trellis to support it until sap begins to flow. As it grows, shape it to ensure adequate light exposure for the clusters. Secure the shoots at an angle (45°).

Trimming

The pruning procedure significantly increases the yield due to the formation of larger brushes, and it is carried out 3 times a year:

• after winter, when the temperature is at least 5°C and sap flow has not begun, cut off dry and frozen shoots;
• In summer, remove side shoots for better air circulation;
• In mid-autumn, before frost, shorten the shoots by 6-9 buds - 30-35 buds should remain on the bush.

Shelter for the winter

It's recommended to cover the vines for the winter when daytime and nighttime temperatures drop below freezing, otherwise the shoots may rot under the cover. Remove the vines from their supports and lay them on the ground, covered with spruce branches. This covering is sufficient until snow cover sets in. Then, when snow falls, regularly sprinkle more snow on the branches. Be sure to place rodent poison around the vines.

Reviews

Sergey Ivanovich, Izhevsk

My dacha plot is small, so I decided to allocate a spot for grapes near the gazebo. It turned out very practical—it's beautiful and doesn't take up much space. I've been growing the Charlie variety for four years now. By fall, all the bunches—I usually leave three or four at a time—are ripe. After harvesting, I store the berries in a cool place until they start to spoil. Until then, we use them for juice, eat them plain, and make homemade wine from the leftovers. The flavor is distinctive at first, but it fades, but I come from a village and loved nightshade as a child, so I like the taste.

Zoya Petrovna, Omsk

"I grow Charlie exclusively for wine. The yield is always good, but I don't like the taste of the berries fresh. A blend of several varieties with Charlie, however, produces good winemaking material, and the wine is wonderful. I always ration the grapes, as in our climate, a large number of bunches simply won't ripen, and there's no point in overloading the bush."