Livia grapes: characteristics and description, planting and care

The Livia hybrid table grape is suitable for both private and commercial cultivation. Gardeners primarily note the pleasant sweet flavor and rich Muscat aroma of the berries, but this is far from the only advantage of Livia.

This hybrid is relatively new, but already has a lot of fans. Read on for a detailed description of the variety, photos, and growing tips.

History of origin

The breeder, an amateur winegrower from Ukraine, developed Livia in 1999 by hybridizing the Flamingo and Arcadia varieties. In the first few years after its introduction, the variety began winning honorary diplomas and awards at exhibitions and competitions.

Further work to refine and study the hybrid's properties was conducted in collaboration with the Magarach Institute of Viticulture and Winemaking. This work lasted for approximately 10 years, during which time the variety was sampled by gardeners in Ukraine, Russia, and Moldova. In 2010, Livia was submitted to the State Registration Service, and a year later, the hybrid was added to the Register of Varieties of Ukraine.

Description of the Livia grape

The ripening period is extremely early, with the harvest occurring 100–115 days after bud break. The hybrid is suitable for growing in warm and moderately cold climates; in cities with unstable and snowless winters, it requires good shelter.

Characteristics of the bush, bunches and berries

The bush is tall and vigorous, with fleshy stems and vines, and grows very quickly. Young shoots are light green and glabrous, while the bark of annual branches is light brown. The leaves are large, with the first leaflet being almost entire; the remaining leaves have a typical, five-lobed, moderately dissected shape.

The clusters are medium-dense, branched, large, elongated, reaching 25 cm or more in length, weighing from 500 grams to a kilogram. The clusters can be of any shape—standard, cylindrical-conical, or completely arbitrary. Small berries are rare in clusters; their average weight is usually 11–13 grams. The berries are oval, ovoid, and sometimes slightly flattened, pink with a slight brown tint.

The skin is soft, almost imperceptible, and there are only a few free seeds (no more than 3). The flesh is medium-dense, juicy, and sweet. A liter of Livia grape juice contains no more than 10 grams of acid and approximately 19% sugar. The flavor, aroma, and shape of the berries are preserved for 30 days after harvest.

Yield, use and storage

The hybrid begins bearing fruit in the third year after planting. Its primary use is for table grapes, although some gardeners also make wine from it. Livia is suitable for making juices and compotes for the winter, as well as fruit and berry assorted platters. This variety tolerates transportation well, but has a short shelf life (no more than a month in a cool basement or refrigerator). This doesn't prevent large agricultural companies from growing it on an industrial scale for processing and selling the freshly harvested crop.

The yield is consistently high, but it's difficult to pinpoint specific figures, as much depends on the age of the vine, its branching pattern, and the local climate. When the branches are evenly loaded, the berries ripen simultaneously; overloaded vines yield 20-30% less (a single bunch can contain berries of varying shades of green and pink).

Advantages and disadvantages

Any seller of grape seedlings gives only positive reviews of their products, of course, because the main thing is to sell. Meanwhile, gardeners who have tried various varieties share detailed, reliable information based on their experiences. After reviewing comments from various forums, we highlight the following advantages of Livia:

• attractive, marketable appearance, good taste and aroma of fruits;
• easy to grow;
• transportability;
• easy propagation;
• self-pollinating hybrid;
• high yields year after year.

The most significant disadvantages, according to gardeners:

• tendency to uneven ripening due to overload of the brushes;
• short shelf life (no more than 40 days);
• relatively low frost resistance;
• weak immunity to oidium and mildew.

All problems are solvable; with proper care, there will be no downsides, except for poor frost tolerance. The bush is tall, meaning covering the vineyard may be challenging; below, we'll tell you how to overcome these challenges. There are very few varieties and hybrids of this plant that are completely disease-resistant; any variety requires timely treatment.

Features of planting and growing grapes in Libya

A vine with its own roots will grow taller, and the grapes will have a richer flavor. A grafted plant will begin fruiting earlier, yielding a higher yield than one grown from a seedling. In some cases, frost resistance is increased.

When choosing and purchasing a seedling, inspect the root system; it should be well-branched and strong. A sign of quality will be light-brown roots, undamaged and not overdried. When cut, the root pith will be light coffee-colored or white, while the shoot will be green.

When and how to plant

One-year-old seedlings are planted from the second half of April to mid-May, and vegetative bushes are planted from the end of May. In autumn, planting is carried out from October until the first frost, after which the bush is carefully covered. Two days before the planned planting date, seedling preparation begins:

• large and small, absorbing roots are shortened to 15 cm;
• The first day, the root is placed in plain water, and on the second day, growth stimulants are added to fresh water. You can use Heteroauxin (2.5 grams per 5 liters of water).

Choose a warm, sunny site for the grapes. Dig a hole measuring 80x80x80 cm. Fill the bottom with a nutrient-rich soil mixture: mix 7 buckets of compost with 2-3 buckets of soil, compact the layer, and sprinkle it with a mixture of 3 liters of wood ash and superphosphate with potassium fertilizer (300 grams each). Add garden soil, leaving a hole no deeper than 50 cm.

The bush is placed on a small mound in the center of the hole, the roots are spread out, and the soil is filled in (a hole about 25 cm deep should remain). The root collar is left above the soil surface. Experienced winegrowers advise pruning the seedling to 4-5 buds. It is advisable to install the support immediately; the structure should be sturdy and sufficiently high.

Watering and fertilizing

At least 2-3 buckets of water are poured directly under the bush; when the soil dries out, water again. The next two waterings are carried out 14 days apart (with the same amount of water), then the area around the trunk is mulched and the soil is moistened as needed. After each watering or rain, the soil is loosened to a depth of 5 to 10 cm. A double watering—before and immediately after flowering—is considered optimal for a mature Libya bush; additional treatments may be necessary during prolonged drought.

Every spring and fall, add mulch (at least 3 cm thick) using rotted sawdust or compost. Fertilizing is not necessary until fruiting begins; after that, fertilize the bush every fall with a moderate amount of organic matter and a potassium-phosphorus mixture.

Pruning and preparation for winter

When initially forming a bush, up to four branches are left and each fall, these are shortened by 2-6 buds. However, short pruning is only permissible in regions with mild winters. In moderate or cold climates, the bush is pruned so that the branches can be lowered to the ground and covered with soil, straw, a sack, or plastic film.

Immediately after planting, the bush needs to be provided with a secure shelter. Cover the seedling with a large container, then fill the shelter with soil so that it covers at least 5 cm of the surface. Place a beacon on the mound to prevent damage to the seedling during spring soil removal.

Livia grape clusters are primarily concentrated on the lower branches of the vine, but the leaves do not need to be plucked during ripening, as is recommended for other varieties. When rationing the harvest, both entire clusters and excess branches are removed.

Diseases and pests

Livia grapes require reliable protection from certain diseases; pests other than wasps and wild birds are not a problem. Disease prevention should be carried out in four stages: at the beginning and immediately after flowering, when the berries reach pea size, and after the entire harvest.

Disease	Preventive treatments	Medicinal spraying
Oidium	Spring: Colloidal sulfur (30–40 grams per 10 liters of water). Nitrafen, DNOC, Topaz, Quadris, and Strobi are also suitable. Midsummer – Thiovit, Jet or Vivando. Autumn – Skor or Topaz.	Before ripening, use colloidal sulfur (100 grams per bucket of water). Apply 2 or 3 sprays, 20 days apart. If rain falls within 5-8 days after application, repeat the procedure. Products such as Acrobat, Skor, Vitaros, Topaz, and CM can be used. During the ripening period, use short-term preparations or dissolve 2 tablespoons of dry mustard in a bucket of water, add 40 grams of soap and treat the bushes about 3-5 times at weekly intervals.
Mildew	Spring – Ridomil Gold, Quadris and Strobi. Midsummer – Ditan M45, Delan. Autumn – Pergado-M, Acrobat.	Before berries begin to ripen, you can combat mildew with copper-containing products such as Abiga-Peak, Bordeaux mixture, Copper sulfate, Oxychom, Quadris, Polichom, and others. Read the instructions and strictly follow the recommended dosages. During berry ripening, use organic fungicides; Alirin and Gamair (a mixture) show the best results. Use two tablets per liter of water, or four tablets in severe cases. You can also spray the undersides of the leaves with a solution of 5 grams of potassium permanganate per bucket of water, and dust the leaves with wood ash. Repeat treatments with biological products and folk remedies until the end of the harvest, at intervals of 10-15 days.

To provide maximum protection against fungi, keep the grapes from becoming too dense and well-ventilated. Birds can be repelled with various noisy devices, and wasps can be lured into traps filled with sugary water or by placing protective gauze bags over the bunches.

It's no wonder Livia is considered one of the best hybrid varieties bred for amateurs. It has an attractive appearance, excellent flavor, produces high yields, is easy to grow, and is relatively hardy. Beginner gardeners, especially those from warmer regions of Russia, can confidently purchase this variety; it's easy to grow.

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Reviews

Maxim. I planted my first Livia bush eight years ago, and I've achieved high yields since the fifth year. The variety has no drawbacks, except for uneven ripening of the berries: by the time the last ones turn pink, the first ones are overripe and cracked. It's a shame to thin the clusters, but it's essential. To prevent diseases, a week before flowering, I spray with a mixture of Arcerid (40 grams) and Tilt (6-7 grams) per 10 liters of water. When the berries are pea-sized, I use a mixture of Ridomil MC (25 grams) and Tilt in the same concentration. My dacha is in the south, so I don't wrap the bushes for the winter.

Ellina. I live in the Irkutsk region, and gardeners say the climate in my region isn't suitable for Livia. I took a chance, planted it, and realized it was just the talk of lazy gardeners! This hybrid variety requires proper care and reliable shelter. I have two bushes, as I have to trim off a significant portion of the buds before covering them, but the harvest is always bountiful; we have enough for ourselves and share with the neighbors. After the first frost, I tuck the pruned branches into a bag (leaving a small opening for air) and cover it with soil.