Even in the harsh conditions of the Siberian and Altai regions, amateur winegrowers grow juicy and sweet grapes. One frost-resistant variety is the "Pamyati Dombkovskaya" variety. Even in the short northern summer, it manages to grow and produce a good harvest.
Features of the variety
"Pamyati Dombkovskaya" was bred in 1993 by renowned breeder Fyodor Shatilov. Initially, it had the technical name ChBZ (black seedless winter-hardy), but later received its current name.
The hybrid descends from the selectively bred varieties "Zarya Severa" and "Kishmish Unique." From these varieties, the grapes inherited frost resistance and the distinctive flavor of their seedless berries. A distinctive feature of the variety is its rapid growth.
During the short summer, a large bush grows and the delicious, juicy berries ripen. Like the "Unique Kishmish," the grapes are seedless. These grapes are considered early-ripening. The bunches ripen within a short 90 days from the start of the growing season. The harvest is ready by mid-August to early September. During particularly hot summers, the berries ripen earlier.
They don't necessarily need to be picked immediately upon ripening. Many winegrowers leave the bunches on the vines until late autumn to allow the berries to fully absorb the sun. A mature harvest acquires greater sweetness.
With proper planting, seedlings grow and develop quickly. The plant begins to bear fruit as early as its second year. By the fifth year, substantial harvests can be achieved. With proper care, a single bush can yield an average of 150 kg of berries.
The variety is frost-hardy. With light cover, it can withstand temperatures down to -28°C. In colder winters, it requires more careful cover. The vines grow well despite adverse weather conditions. The grapes produce well in northern latitudes on difficult farming soils.
"Pamyati Dombkovskaya" is classified as a table grape variety. However, winegrowers claim it has a versatile purpose. The fruit is delicious fresh. It can be used to make jams and compotes; it can be served with meat dishes. It can also be dried to make raisins. Ripe berries make a good homemade wine.
Description of the culture
The grapevines are well-developed and robust. During the warm season, the vines can grow up to five meters. The bark is light brown and smooth. The leaves are green, serrated, three-fingered, and have prominent veins. They have long petioles and are pubescent on the underside. The pubescence is light, reminiscent of a spider web.
The flowers are bisexual and delicate. The plant requires no additional pollination. The fruits are large, round, and bluish-black. The surface is covered with a thin layer of whitish wax. The berries have a sweet and sour taste. In particularly sunny and warm summers, the sucrose content can reach 20%.
The fruit's skin is thick and weather-resistant. It holds up well when exposed to moisture, without cracking. The flesh is lilac-colored, firm, and crisp. It is completely seedless, though occasionally soft spots may be present.
The clusters are beautiful, cone-shaped, and moderately loose. If three clusters were left during pruning, each cluster weighs approximately 400-700 g. If there is only one cluster per bush, it can weigh up to one kilogram in a fruitful summer.
Advantages and disadvantages of the variety
According to amateur winegrowers, "Pamyat Dombkovskaya" has virtually no flaws. The cultivar possesses:
- endurance;
- frost resistance;
- early maturity;
- versatility of application;
- fertility;
- resistance to diseases.
The only drawback of this variety is its poor tolerance to humid weather. The plant loses its immunity and is easily susceptible to fungal diseases. It has weak resistance to mildew, gray mold, and powdery mildew.
Features of agricultural technology of the variety
For successful cultivation of grapes, it is necessary to carry out the following agricultural measures.
Landing
Since the 'Pamyati Dombkovskaya' grape variety is a sun-loving cultivar, it should be planted on a south-facing side. The best option is to plant it on the southeast or southwest side of the house. This way, the plant receives more heat.
Grapes prefer black soil or loamy soil. If the soil is poor, add organic matter before planting, such as rotted manure or compost. If the soil is acidic, it should be neutralized by adding lime.
When planting, pay attention to the groundwater level. If it's close to the topsoil, it's recommended to install a drainage system or plant the tree in a higher elevation.
Before planting, seedlings should be prepared. First, they are sorted, discarding rotten and weak specimens. The selected branches are trimmed at the edges so that the cut is green. Then they are soaked in water to strengthen the root system.
When marking out the holes, it's important to consider the distances. The distance between plantings should be at least one and a half meters, and between rows, three meters. The distance to the wall of a house or shed should be at least 40 cm. The distance to a fence should be about one meter.
The holes should be dug to a depth of one meter. Broken brick or crushed stone is placed at the bottom and compacted. Next, a layer of black soil mixed with sand and compost is added. The prepared holes should be left to rest for 14 to 30 days. Only then should the seedlings be planted.
Pegs are installed in the center of the holes, and wire is tied to them. These serve as supports for the future bushes. The seedlings are placed near them and covered with soil. Organic matter is added during planting; the seedlings are then watered generously. They are carefully covered with dry grass and onion skins.
Trimming
To ensure good growth and fruiting, the plant needs to be pruned. The first pruning is done at the end of August. This is necessary to allow the plant to prepare for winter and gain sufficient strength. Shorten the vine by 20–40 cm, and prune off the upper shoots.
The second pruning is done in October, when the leaves have completely fallen. The most viable shoots are selected, and the rest are pruned. The fruiting shoot is shortened to two buds. The reserve shoot is pruned to 7-14 buds.
After pruning, treat the vine with a copper sulfate solution. In the spring, after wintering, break off any dead branches. It's best not to prune completely in the spring, as sap will begin to ooze from the cuts, causing the vine to dry out.
Pinching and thinning out
As the bush grows, empty side shoots form. These do not produce clusters. However, as they grow further, they draw nutrients from the fruiting vine. Therefore, side shoots must be removed completely in the spring.
Side-sonning is performed in spring, summer, and fall. The entire plant is inspected at the same time. Weak and damaged shoots are removed.
In addition, it's necessary to thin out the green shoots on the vines. The leaves around the clusters are completely removed to allow more sun for the ripening fruit. If the foliage isn't thinned, the grapes are prone to pea-shaped growth.
The quality of the berries also suffers. Ripening in the shade, they lose their sweetness. The taste becomes sour with a slight bitterness.
Watering and fertilizing
In early spring and before fruiting, apply root dressings with organic and mineral fertilizers. Before and after flowering, apply foliar feedings with nitrogen-containing fertilizers.
When fruit sets, foliar feeding with boron and zinc is recommended. The final feeding should be done in the fall, just before harvest. More frequent feeding is not recommended, as the plant begins to rapidly develop foliage.
Watering the plant infrequently is recommended. The first watering should be done in early spring. Watering should be resumed during the flowering period, in June. Grapes should be watered no more than once a week. It is advisable to use clean, sun-warmed water. Once the grapes begin to color, watering should be stopped.
Spraying against diseases and pests
'Pamyat Dombkovskaya' has weak immunity to gray mold, mildew, and powdery mildew. The plant is especially weakened in wet, rainy weather. Therefore, spraying should be done as a preventative measure throughout the season.
This procedure is carried out using tank mixes: several substances are combined in a single container. This method not only eliminates fungal spores but also kills harmful insects. These mixtures also make a good foliar fertilizer for the crop.
Spraying is done after sunset to prevent sun rays from scorching wet leaves. When preparing mixtures, pay attention to their compatibility. Novice winegrowers will have to work hard to master this method.
A one-time irrigation with mixtures will not help prevent diseases. Spraying with mixtures should be carried out according to the following schedule:
- In early spring after pruning the bushes.
- Before flowering.
- When the ovary appears.
- Before covering the grape vine.
Preparing for winter
In southern regions, the "Pamyati Dombkovskaya" variety is not covered. The vines are harvested, bent, and laid on the ground. In the harsh northern winter, the grapes require careful covering.
Spruce branches are laid on the ground, and a bent grapevine is placed on top. More spruce branches are placed on top of this. The ends are left exposed until the first frost. The top is covered with non-woven material to protect the vine from moisture.
When the temperature outside drops to -5°C, the shelter is covered with soil. In some areas, snow cover serves as this material. If there is a lot of snow, it retains heat well. The vines thrive in this type of overwintering.
Reviews from amateur winegrowers
Inessa, 38 years old
I've had the "In Memory of Dombkovskaya" variety growing in my garden for six years now. The bushes began bearing fruit in the second year after planting. I didn't cover the plants this winter. I thought they'd freeze, but they've proven resilient. However, the yield this summer was low. I really like the grapes. The only drawback is their susceptibility to mildew. I have to treat them several times a season.
Vladimir, 47 years old
The grapes on my plot ripen in the second half of August. The bunches are large – each weighing a kilogram. I love the flavor of the berries and the fact that they're seedless. Most of the harvest goes into wine.
Nikita, 51 years old
The bushes are 10 years old. They grow quickly over the summer. The vines are strong. I hardly cultivate them, and the plants don't get sick. People say the berries are sour, but that's not true. Mine ripen very sweet. The only drawback is that they're a bit small. The clusters are too dense.
Arseniy, 13 years old
A very good variety. Vigorous and fruitful. The berries ripen sweet and sour, despite the short, cold summer. I prune them long and harvest in September. Although the plant is considered a relatively sheltered one, I provide reliable cover. Our winters are harsh, sometimes reaching -40 degrees Celsius. I don't plan on giving up grapes. This variety is the best of those grown in our region.
The "Pamyat Dombkovskaya" grape variety is very popular among amateur winegrowers in northern Russia. It thrives in the cold, unfavorable climate and produces fruit. It is grown for its pleasantly sweet and sour berries, which make delicious preserves and a delicious wine.
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