Ruby Jubilee Grapes: Characteristics and Description of the Variety, Planting and Care

The quality of the future harvest depends directly on the correct grape variety. Rubinovy ​​Yubiley is a low-maintenance variety that produces abundant fruit. Large, sweet berries, strong clusters, and a strong vine—these are the characteristics gardeners cite in their reviews.

Characteristics and description of the variety

The brightly colored berries of the Ruby Jubilee grape attract the attention of any passerby. They ripen by the end of August, as the fruiting period lasts 120-130 days. The fruits are round and heavy, with a single berry easily weighing up to 20 g. The skin is a combination of red and pink with yellow highlights. The thin skin is barely perceptible to the taste. The berry pulp is sweet, with a honey-like aftertaste. The sugar content is 15-17 g, and the acid content is 6-7 g/l. Due to their thin yet durable skin, the berries withstand transportation well, so they are grown for commercial consumption. Ruby Jubilee grapes are eaten fresh, but the berries are also suitable for making homemade wines and liqueurs. Housewives use the grape leaves for making dolma – they are durable and beautiful.

The bush is medium in height, rarely exceeding 5 m in length. The vine is tied to a support or trellis from planting. Pruning is necessary once or twice a year. The best yield is observed when the bush has no more than 30 buds. 6-8 buds are pruned at a time. The vines produce clusters of grapes weighing approximately 700-800 g. Ripening is good, with the berries ripening simultaneously. Mature shoots turn brown with dark green foliage. Flowering occurs quickly in the summer. The flowers are hermaphrodites, so pollinators are not needed for fruiting.

The Ruby Jubilee variety is widespread on the Crimean Peninsula, in the Rostov Region, and in the Krasnodar Krai. It is less commonly grown in the Moscow Region and the Leningrad Region due to its low frost resistance. The shoots can withstand temperatures down to -20°C (-4°F), but overwinter only if covered. Rainy, cloudy weather affects the quality of the berries and the yield, so the Ruby Jubilee is grown primarily in the south of the country.

The variety is considered resistant to many grape diseasesRuby Jubilee is weakly affected by mildew and oidium, and is resistant to rot and other bacteria. Preventative treatment is necessary, carried out twice a year: in spring and fall. Copper sulfate, Bordeaux mixture, or any fungicidal agents are used for treatment.

The Ruby Jubilee has a number of positive qualities:

• large, beautiful berries of unusual color;
• stable harvest;
• strong immune qualities;
• powerful shoots and abundant fruiting;
• undemanding to planting soil.

One drawback to growing this variety is its attraction to wasps. To protect it, consider providing a special cover for the grapes or purchasing insect traps. Birds sometimes attack the berries, but they can be easily repelled with fine mesh.

How to plant

A plot for grapes is best located on the south or southwest side. Wind protection should be considered; a fence on the north side, for example, can be used. Grapes should not be grown near trees, as shade is detrimental to them. The groundwater level should be at least 1.5 meters. Soil for the grapes is laid in the fall or spring. Dig planting holes 70-80 cm deep and approximately the same diameter. First, fill the hole with a bucket of any drainage material, then ½ kg of superphosphate and a bucket of compost.

For planting a seedling Planting begins in the spring, in early or mid-April. For 24 hours, the seedling is soaked in a solution that stimulates rhizome development and growth. The growth stimulant should consist of succinic acid, sodium humate, and rooting agent. This nutrient mixture will strengthen the roots, allowing them to quickly adapt to the new location. The seedling roots are placed in a hole filled with fertile soil and dug in, leaving the root collar exposed. For the first two weeks of growth, the seedlings are given some shade.

How to care

During the first year of cultivation, the seedling is watered infrequently (once a month), the soil is loosened, and fungicidal treatments are applied to control diseases and pests. The first watering is done immediately after planting the seedling in its permanent location. After watering, the soil is loosened, and any weeds that appear are pulled out. When the first leaves begin to actively grow, the trunk is cleared of the soil layer. In June, a hole is made around the plant to allow the surface roots to acclimate to the surrounding temperature. If the roots are not hardened off, the plant will develop slowly and sluggishly. The hole is filled in only in mid-August, when the temperature drops noticeably.

Vines can be trained from the first year of cultivation. The strongest and most vigorous shoot is left, and the rest are cut off. Subsequent pruning is carried out in the fall, after harvest, and in the spring. Old, dried branches and weak shoots are removed first. Pruning requires pruning shears or a sharp knife; breaking off branches is undesirable, as this can damage the vine.

How to cover for the winter

Ruby Jubilee requires shelter almost always. The exception is southern regions with warm winters. Getting ready for winter Planting begins in October. The vines are pruned of leaves and removed from their supports. A trench is dug near the site where the grapes are grown. Peat is placed in the trench, and the shoots are placed on top. The shoots are then covered with soil. A layer of cellophane or roofing felt is placed on the bed. When snow covers the ground, it is piled on top of the cover. In the spring, the snowdrift is removed, otherwise the melting snow will wash away the soil.

Reviews

Pavel from Krasnodar Krai speaks:

"The Ruby Jubilee caught my eye with its beautiful berries. I've been growing it in my garden for four years now. Fruiting occurs every year and is consistent. The berries are always sweet and large, not prone to shrinking. Last year, I started using fertilizer. I fed the grapes before and after flowering with a potassium supplement (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water). Fruiting began two weeks earlier than usual."

Anna from the Ivanovo region says:

"I was worried the seedlings wouldn't take root in the soil due to their low frost resistance. Some plants did die, but most survived. I planted the grapes in April, mid-month, but spring was late, and the nights were cold. The remaining plants have bloomed, and I hope to harvest soon."