Jupiter Grapes: Characteristics and Description of the Variety

Grape

Jupiter grape variety

The Jupiter grape was bred in Arkansas, USA, in 1998 and introduced to Russia a few years later. There is no precise information about the parent varieties. After brief trials in various regions of our country, Jupiter took a top spot among the best seedless grape varieties.

The variety is actively grown in summer cottages and on an industrial scale.

Characteristics of Jupiter grapes

The berries ripen very early, taking 105–110 days from bud break to harvest. In warmer regions, harvesting occurs in early August, and in cooler regions, until mid-September. The hybrid begins bearing fruit at three years of age. It is highly winter-hardy, withstanding frosts down to -27°C (80°F) without damage, but only with good snow cover. Jupiter is resistant to wasp attacks and has moderate resistance to diseases (powdery mildew, downy mildew, and gray mold).

Description of the bush and berries

Bushes growing on their own roots are medium-sized, producing little growth in a single season. When Jupiter grows on rootstock, the bush develops faster and is taller. The vines are reddish-brown or light brown, with large, dark green, trilobed, and slightly dissected leaves. Up to six inflorescences form on a single shoot, the flowers are bisexual, and the variety bears fruit without pollinators.

Attention!
According to winegrowers, the best results are achieved by grafting Jupiter onto C04 rootstocks and Berlandieri-Riparia hybrids. However, it is not possible to fully preserve all the varietal characteristics of Jupiter; clusters may become larger but very loose, and the berries will partially lose their unique flavor.

The clusters are winged, cone-shaped, moderately dense, and small, averaging 200 to 300 grams, with individual clusters weighing up to 500 grams. The berries are approximately 5–7 grams in weight, ovoid-oblong with a pointed tip, red when ripe, and blue-red with a dense matte bloom when fully ripe.

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The pulp is juicy and fleshy, reminiscent of marmalade in consistency, and the skin is thin and firm. There are no seeds, though small rudiments are sometimes found. The flavor is very good, a distinctive "Isabel" or duchesse-muscat flavor, with a light, unobtrusive aroma. Jupiter grape juice contains up to 21% sugars and very little acid (4–6 grams).

Yield indicators, use

The yield is high, depending on the pruning method. In commercial vineyards, 200–250 centners of grapes are harvested annually per hectare. The berries retain their attractive appearance for a long time and do not crack during transportation or on the vines (due to overwatering or overripeness). They are versatile in their uses: various processing applications, winemaking, drying, and freezing.

Advantages and disadvantages

Among the disadvantages, Jupiter's relatively low resistance to fungi and the light weight of its clusters are particularly notable. However, the bush easily tolerates up to 45 buds, the clusters ripen fully, and thinning is not required, so the hybrid's yield always remains high. Let's move on to the positive qualities:

  • absence of seeds;
  • high yield;
  • good taste and presentation of berries;
  • versatility in use;
  • good ripening of shoots;
  • the berries stay in the bunches for a long time, fall off only when overripe, do not crack during transportation and in high humidity;
  • frost resistance;
  • early entry into the fruiting stage;
  • early maturing hybrid;
  • vines that have been slightly or moderately damaged by frost have the ability to recover in a short time;
  • the harvested crop is well stored in a cool place for up to 3 months;
  • easy to grow.

Another important advantage is that Jupiter cuttings root very quickly, making propagation this way easy even for a beginner. However, the branch should only be taken from a mature, fruiting bush (over 4 or even 5 years old).

Features of cultivation

Jupiter grapes should be planted in a sunny, warm location away from strong winds and cold drafts. Ideally, they should be planted on the south or southwest side of houses or other buildings. Avoid planting this variety in areas with high groundwater levels. Own-rooted vines can be grown along fences, while grafted plants should be supported by arched structures.

Attention!
The bush only needs to be covered during the first year or in regions with frosty, snowless winters. The seedling can be easily covered with a large container and filled with leaves, sand, or soil. The branches of tall bushes are bent to the ground, covered with plastic (using arches), and the edges of the plastic sheeting are pressed down with stones.

Rooted cuttings can be planted from spring, after the last frosts have passed, until the first autumn frosts (under cover). Grafting the cuttings to the rootstock is done when the grapevine is dormant. When planting multiple cuttings, space them 3 meters apart.

Watering, fertilizing and pruning

If the planting hole is properly prepared (including the addition of fertilizer), fertilizing will only be necessary after the bush enters the fruiting stage. The first application is done in the spring, the second immediately after flowering, and the third before wintering. Organic (liquid) and mineral fertilizers are suitable; all fertilizers should be used in moderation. In the spring, it is advisable to add wood ash to the soil under a shallow tillage (500 grams per square meter).

In the absence of natural precipitation, water during flowering, and when the berries reach pea size, apply at least 3 buckets of water per bush. Additional watering is necessary during prolonged dry periods. After each watering or rain, loosen the soil around the tree trunks. It's best not to leave the soil bare to prevent moisture from evaporating quickly. Apply a layer of mulch (up to 3 cm) around the trunks. Well-rotted sawdust, humus, or moss can be used.

It's best to form the bush into a double-armed horizontal cordon, leaving no more than 45 shoots. The main pruning is done in the fall after the leaves have fallen. Each young vine is shortened by at least 7 or 9 buds. In the spring, before the buds swell, remove all branches that haven't survived the winter. If desired, you can rejuvenate the bush by trimming excess or overly long vines, and remove those that grow inward and create a dense crown.

Preventive treatments

Regardless of growing conditions, Jupiter grapes require protection from fungi and various pests. Preventative spraying should be carried out four times a year:

  • before bud break;
  • 2 weeks before flowering begins;
  • immediately after flowering;
  • after leaf fall.

For the first three treatments, winegrowers most often use 3% Bordeaux mixture or Thanos (according to the instructions). In the fall, it's better to use ferrous sulfate. Before winter, all plant debris is removed from the vineyard plot.

Attention!
To prevent pathogenic fungi from developing resistance to various products, alternate them at your discretion, choose new options, and consult with sellers.

Jupiter belongs to raisinsHowever, it produces berries that are unusually large for such varieties. Another significant advantage of the hybrid is its ease of cultivation. Scientists John Clark and James Moore have created a truly excellent, noteworthy grape variety that is quickly gaining popularity among gardeners in Russia, Ukraine, Moldova, Belarus, and other countries.

Reviews

Martha

My vineyard is located in the Krasnodar region. I've been growing Jupiter grapes for eight years now, covering them only the first year. The vines began bearing fruit the following season, and I harvested 6 kilograms of berries from five vines. Now the yields are much higher. Ripening is uneven, with pink, red, and blue berries on a single cluster. After harvesting, the cluster ripens further. I don't treat for pests, only diseases. I use various products, usually using whatever I have on hand.

Kirill

I tried Jupiter grapes from a friend and really liked the flavor—unusual and distinctive. I grafted them onto an old vineyard; the vines were tall, with the largest bunches weighing up to 800 grams, but the flavor wasn't quite right. Four years ago, I planted a Jupiter cutting, and there it was—the same flavor and aroma, but the bunches were small and loose. The grafted vine consistently yielded high yields, and the own-rooted vines were also impressive, producing 4–5 bunches in the first year. I don't cover them for the winter; I treat them twice—immediately after bud break and before wintering—and haven't had any diseases.

Jupiter grape variety
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