
The Zilga hybrid is a versatile grape variety. Its large, sweet berries are suitable for making wine, juices, and various preserves. Zilga has also gained widespread recognition for its biological characteristics: it is frost-resistant, virtually disease-resistant, and ripens very early.
Residents of northern regions prefer to grow it, as it does not require shelter for the winter and is quite easy to care for.
History of origin
Zilga was born in 1964, thanks to Latvian breeder P. Sukatnieks. By that time, he had already developed nearly a hundred vibrant, successful grape varieties. However, the winemaker continued his curious experiments, striving to create a grape adapted to the harsh climate of Northern Europe that would satisfy all the needs of society. Zilga was created from the Russian varieties "Smuglyanka" and "Yubileiny Novgorod," and the Latvian "Dvietes." This grape variety can withstand temperatures down to -30°C (-82°F) and overwinters well without cover, even during snowless periods. This new grape variety has gained widespread recognition in Lithuania, Latvia, Belarus, and other countries with variable climates.
Zilga's characteristics place it among the industrial grape varieties. This means it produces the best wine. This characteristic is shared only by mid-late and late southern varieties, while Zilga is an early-ripening hybrid.
General description
The Zilga hybrid is early maturing, meaning the harvest ripens in 120-130 days. The grafted bush is medium-sized, self-rooted, and reaches a height of two meters or more. The shoots have good growth vigor. The annual shoots mature before the onset of cold weather. The foliage is large, three-lobed, and dark green (the undersides are slightly bleached). It is dense and rough.
Zilga grapes are self-pollinating. The flowers have organs of both sexes. After flowering, small, round, blue berries develop in their place, covered with a bluish, matte bloom. The skin is thick and firm. The pulp is gelatinous, slimy, with a few large seeds. The flavor is rated at 3.2 points, with a hint of Isabella. The fruit weighs 6-7 grams. The fruits contain approximately 20% sugar, and their acidity does not exceed 5 g/l.
The variety's name indicates the color of the berries. "Zilga" means "bluish" in Russian.
The berries are borne in loose clusters of 30-35 berries, with 2-3 berries per shoot. They are conical or cylindrical in shape. The clusters are voluminous and heavy. A medium-sized cluster weighs 350-450 grams.
The grapes produce a good yield—up to 12 kilograms of berries per bush. The fruit ripens in late August. Another advantage is that the berries remain on the bush for a long time. They can hang on their long stalks for a long time, drying in the sun. The longer they remain on the vine, the sweeter they will be.
Diseases and pests
A distinctive feature of this variety is its resistance to infectious diseases. Careful care will protect it from fungal and viral infestations, as well as aphids and spider mites. During rainy seasons, fungal diseases such as mildew, gray mold, and oidium sometimes develop. These diseases manifest as a powdery gray coating caused by fungal spores. Affected berries shrivel, dry out, and fall off. Affected shoots develop poorly, ripen late, and therefore become less winter-hardy.
To protect vineyards from disease, multiple fungicide treatments are carried out. Depending on the pathogen, products such as Quadris, Folpan, Strobi, Topaz, Kuprozan, Shavit, Polihom, Acrobat, and others are used.
Features of cultivation
When planning a vineyard, consider the biological characteristics of Zilga. It thrives in sunny areas with sandy or sandy loam soil with a slightly acidic pH (pH 5-5.7). Therefore, if the soil is too acidic, liming the area is a good idea. Grapes can also grow in the shade, but insufficient light will significantly affect the quality of the fruit. Avoid planting grapes near house walls or tall trees, as their roots will oppress the vines.
It's best to position the grape vine on the south side of the property, 4-5 meters from the house wall. This will ensure maximum light and protection from cold winds.
High-quality seedlings should have a well-developed root system, smooth, clean shoots, and numerous buds. Before planting, the roots are soaked in water or a growth stimulant. For better adhesion to the soil, the roots are also dipped in a clay-manure slurry.
Before planting, dig the plot and add superphosphate, wood ash, and humus. Dig a deep hole measuring 50 x 70 centimeters for each seedling. Place a bucket of humus at the bottom of the hole and mix it thoroughly with the soil. The seedlings are planted so that the bases of the one-year-old shoots are 3-5 centimeters above the edge of the hole. As they are filled, compact the soil layers and water with warm water. If using cuttings, plant two in each hole. Care for cuttings is essential, as they have a difficult time rooting. Since Zilga is a vigorous, robust plant, the seedlings should be spaced apart. The distance between holes should be between one and one and a half meters. After planting, water the grapes again and mulch the soil to retain moisture as long as possible.
The most delicious wine is obtained if Zilgu grapes are grown in poor sandy soil.
Caring for a young vineyard
Caring for a newly planted grape seedling involves regular watering, fertilizing, and loosening the soil. Grapes require a great deal of water to develop a strong root system. During the first year, the plant is watered up to 15 times. The first watering is done immediately after planting. If the soil is pebbly, the frequency of waterings increases to 18. Compact soil requires less frequent watering, up to 10 times per summer. Watering is especially important in early summer and during grape ripening. In September, watering is reduced. It is preferable to water the vineyard using a thin stream along furrows dug on both sides of the plant. Each young grapevine requires up to three buckets of water. The soil must be moistened to a depth of 80 centimeters. During the second summer, the plant is watered 8-9 times. In the spring, water once per month, as the soil is still sufficiently saturated with snow moisture. In the fall, watering is also done once per month. During the summer months, 2-3 waterings are needed. By the third year, the number of waterings increases to 6-7.
After watering, the soil is loosened, simultaneously removing weeds. If the soil is poor in nutrients, manure is added in the fall of the first year—up to 4 kilograms per square meter. If the soil is well-fertilized, fertilizing begins only the following year.
Although Zilga is considered a frost-hardy variety, it is still recommended to cover the young vineyard for the winter. The base of the trunk is hilled high with soil and covered with foliage. At the end of March, the vines are uncovered very carefully, so as not to damage the buds. Then, the first deep loosening is carried out to saturate the soil with oxygen. After uncovering, the one-year-old vines are pruned. Two to three of the best shoots are left, and the rest are pruned. During fall pruning, two to four developed shoots are left and cut back to 1 meter, forming branches. After pruning, manure is applied between the rows.
Caring for fruit-bearing grapes
As the bush grows, the vines are tied to the support. The first staking is usually done in the second year of the plant's life. A trellis is considered the best type of support for grapes. Zilga is advantageous because it doesn't require winter protection, eliminating the need to remove long, woody vines from the supports. During winter, you can simply mound up the base of the bush to prevent the roots from freezing.
Trimming
In spring, when shoots reach 10-15 centimeters in length and inflorescences are forming, unnecessary shoots are broken off or pruned. Weak and damaged branches, as well as non-fruiting ones, are removed. Pruning is necessary to thin the crown so that the bush is not shaded by excess shoots and so that sun and light can freely penetrate the bush. Zilga is prone to producing large shoots. If these are not partially removed, the vines in the lowest layers may not ripen on time and will freeze in the winter. Even if frost doesn't damage the plant, the vines themselves will intertwine, forming a tight tangle. This will reduce the yield. Pruning the grapes short is not a concern for crop loss. In fact, the more branches pruned, the larger the clusters will form. When pruning fruiting bushes, leave 4-5 shoots on the mother branch—one for fruiting and 2-4 for replacement. No more than 7 buds should remain on any one shoot. Four-year-old bushes should have 6 fruiting shoots and 4 replacement shoots.
Don't rush to prune frost-damaged branches. There's a chance the buds will still emerge and begin to grow.
A plant that is already producing fruit requires additional fertilizer. Grapes that receive a combination of minerals and organic matter, including summer fertilization, produce better results. The basic fertilizer dose includes superphosphate (50 grams) and potassium chloride (6-9 grams per square meter), which are applied to the soil in the fall during tillage. In the spring, after the soil has cleared, garden shrubs are fertilized with ammonium nitrate (30-50 grams) and ammonium sulfate (60 grams).
Potassium-phosphorus fertilizers can be applied in the spring if they weren't applied in the fall. Two additional applications are performed in late spring and midsummer:
- 10-15 days before flowering, apply 20 grams of ammonium nitrate (or 30 grams of ammonium sulfate), 25 grams of superphosphate, and 4 grams of potassium chloride per square meter.
- Twenty days after flowering, plants are fed with superphosphate (25 grams) and potassium chloride (3-4 grams).
Organic matter is added every 2-3 years, using rotted manure or compost at a rate of 5-6 kilograms per square meter.
Advantages and disadvantages of the variety
Latvian grapes are excellent in every way. They are extremely undemanding in terms of growing conditions, rarely suffer from disease, and tolerate Russian winters well. They produce good yields every year. And the bisexual flowers don't require external pollinators, making the hybrid even more attractive for cultivation. The plant grows rapidly, meaning a fully mature, competitive vineyard can be established in just a couple of years. Zilga can be grown as a native plant or grafted onto any rootstock—it takes root easily and grows quickly the following year. Surprisingly, this variety is almost completely untouched by wasps, so the harvest is almost always presentable at harvest. And if you let it hang in the sun for a bit longer, you can produce natural raisins.
The few disadvantages most often include too thick skin and large grains inside.
Reviews
The Zilga hybrid has not yet been added to the State Register, but this doesn't stop it from being one of the most sought-after varieties today. Beginning winegrowers begin their cultivation journey with the Zilga grape. This is no coincidence, as it thrives in any soil and climate. It doesn't require frequent fertilizing or complex cultivation techniques. Care is also simplified by the fact that the vines don't need to be removed from the trellis for the winter. Although Zilga is intended for winemaking, this doesn't mean it can't be consumed fresh or used in compotes and juices. On the contrary, its muscat flavor makes any culinary creation incredibly delicate and aromatic.
Conclusion
Zilga is considered a traditional grape variety. It doesn't produce large bunches, and the fruit's flavor is rather mediocre. However, this hybrid is just as popular as many southern varieties. This is because even with minimal care, no winter shelter, and even in adverse weather conditions, this grape is still capable of reliably producing the coveted bunches.

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