How to grow a tangerine from a seed at home?

Today, flower shops offer all sorts of exotic plants for home growing, and the mandarin tree holds a special place among them. The price of a mature tree with fruit and numerous glossy leaves is quite high, so not everyone can afford one. But don't despair, as there is a way to grow a mandarin tree from a seed yourself, without much effort.

Characteristics of a domestic mandarin tree

The indoor mandarin tree belongs to the Rutaceae family. It is a hardy and low-maintenance plant. Its evergreen leaves are replaced once every four years. Beautiful branches, glossy foliage, and pleasantly scented white flowers are just some of the many benefits this indoor tree has to offer. With proper and patient care, the mandarin tree will also delight you with its fragrant fruit.

The plant propagates vegetatively or by seed. In home gardening, fruit trees are most often grown from seeds. However, in most cases, beginners end up with a beautiful plant that fails to produce fruit. This is understandable, as in greenhouses, mandarins are forced to bear fruit by grafting, so this procedure should also be considered when growing indoors.

Rules for growing a tangerine from a seed

This exotic tree requires proper care, which should be followed when growing it indoors. Creating the right microclimate is not difficult at all, so even novice gardeners can grow it.

Selection and preparation of seeds

For best results, select several seeds at once. This will significantly increase the chances of successful germination. It's best to select seeds from ripe fruits without any damage. The seeds should not be misshapen, have dark tips, or be too thin, as if dried out. First, the seeds need time to swell and sprout.

The following pre-preparation options can be used:

1. The seeds are wrapped in damp gauze or a thin cloth and left for several days. During this time, make sure the gauze remains damp at all times.
2. Hydrogel is ideal for swelling, as it will provide the bones with the necessary moisture.

If you can't prepare the seeds in advance, you can plant them directly in the soil. The sprouts will emerge, but much later than after swelling.

Soil preparation

Acidic and over-dried soil is unsuitable for the plant. The soil mixture should be free of peat, which is found in most commercially available substrates.

It is advisable to prepare the soil yourself using the following ingredients:

• two parts leaf soil;
• two parts humus;
• one part sand.

This soil mixture allows for excellent aeration and moisture drainage. If you can't prepare your own substrate, you can purchase a ready-made soil mixture for roses or citrus.

Landing

Soaked seeds are planted in a seedling tray or small containers with drainage holes. The bottom of the container should be lined with a layer of high-quality drainage material (pebbles, perlite, expanded clay, or pottery shards).

Place the seeds 4 cm deep in prepared soil and cover with soil. Cover the top of the container with plastic wrap, cellophane, or glass to create greenhouse conditions. Move the container to a warm, bright location. The first sprouts can be expected three weeks after planting.

Frequency of watering seeds

Water the planted seeds as the top layer of the substrate dries out. It's best to use settled, room-temperature water. Since the seeds are in a greenhouse, moisture is retained in the soil longer. Therefore, it's important not to overwater the planting material; water moderately.

What conditions do young shoots need?

Three weeks after planting, young shoots begin to emerge. Once they appear, begin applying organic and mineral fertilizers to the soil twice a month. To avoid burning the roots, apply fertilizer only after preliminary watering.

Once the sprouts emerge, move the container to a bright location, but out of direct sunlight. The optimal temperature for the seedlings is 20°C. Water as needed and avoid allowing the soil to dry out.

Transplanting seedlings

A distinctive feature of citrus fruits is their active root system. Until the roots fill the pot, the seedling will not grow upward. Each plant should be planted in a separate container to prevent the roots from becoming tangled. Once established, the seedlings are transplanted into pots that hold at least 4 liters. This process is carried out by transshipment to avoid damaging the delicate roots.

After repotting, the plant is moved to its permanent location. A south-facing windowsill is ideal.

Caring for a young tree

The mandarin tree thrives in high humidity, so it needs to be watered and misted regularly. For these procedures, use well-settled water (for at least three days). For additional moisture, containers filled with wet expanded clay or peat are often placed near the pot. In summer, water up to three times a day, and in winter, as the soil dries out.

How to graft a mandarin tree at home?

The tree will begin to bear fruit in four or five years. To ensure tasty fruit, the mandarin tree must be grafted; otherwise, the fruit will grow wild and taste completely unappetizing. This must be done carefully, in a sterile environment. Grafting can be done during the period of active sap flow—April and August. For the procedure, you will need to prepare:

• a house tree (called a “rootstock”) with a trunk at least 6 mm thick;
• grafted scion. The scion must be young (up to two years old) and freshly cut;
• a preparation for healing cuts (garden var);
• a special knife for grafting and tape.

The instrument must be sterilized, after which the procedure begins step by step:

1. Thorns and leaves are removed from the scion, and a T-shaped cut is made on the trunk (at a level of about 10 cm).
2. Very carefully cut a thin layer of wood with a bud from the scion and immediately insert it into the T-shaped cut.
3. The cut site is tightly wrapped with tape, firmly pressing the scion to the rootstock.
4. For a month, the graft is kept under a bag to create greenhouse conditions.
5. After a month, the juice flow will stop, so to ensure success, it is advisable to do a few more of these procedures on the same day.

After the sprout emerges, remove the adhesive tape, and gradually acclimate the sprout to the room's microclimate, regularly removing the insulating bag. A month later, when the sprout begins to actively develop, cut off the old rootstock stem. The cut should be made at an angle, 0.3 cm above the shoot. To prevent significant sap loss, treat the cut with garden pitch. Provide a small support for the new shoot to encourage vertical growth.

Pest and disease control

Indoors, the tree is often susceptible to disease and pests. The most common pests are:

• aphid;
• citrus whitefly;
• scale insect;
• spider mite.

These tiny insects feed on the tree's sap, causing the plant to become malnourished and even die. Like most houseplants, the mandarin requires regular inspection, as pests often hide on the underside of the leaves. If spider webs or insects appear on the tree, take immediate action:

1. Take the plant to the bathroom and rinse thoroughly under a warm shower. Almost all parasites are afraid of water.
2. In an apartment, it's best to use folk remedies for treatment. You can make a tincture of garlic or onion peels. You can also wash the above-ground parts with a soapy solution.
3. In case of severe damage, the mandarin is treated in several stages with special insecticides (Aktellik, Aktara, Fitoverm).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouVCszI02bw

Plant problems can also arise from improper care. For example, if the soil is constantly overwatered, you may notice small flies on the surface. To get rid of these unwanted plant inhabitants, reduce the frequency of watering, loosen the soil, and sprinkle it with Grom-2.

High humidity can trigger the fungal disease anthracnose. The above-ground parts of the tree become covered with pale green spots, which later darken. To treat the disease, prune the affected parts and treat the tree with a fungicide according to the instructions. For prevention, spraying the foliage with 1% Bordeaux mixture several times per season is recommended.

It's impossible to detect the disease by examining the leaves, as they are the last to be affected by the fungus, once the trunk or branch has already died. Before treatment, the underlying cause of the disease must be eliminated, which may include:

• lack of phosphorus and potassium with an excessive amount of nitrogen in the soil;
• poor or no drainage;
• deep planting of seedlings;
• mechanical damage, which became an “open window” for infection.

In addition to eliminating these causes, the wound on the trunk should be cleaned and disinfected. A 3% copper sulfate solution is suitable for this. Afterwards, the damaged area is treated with garden pitch. This procedure should be continued until the mandarin tree is completely healed. If treatment is unsuccessful, the plant should be completely destroyed.

Frequently asked questions about growing

Growing a mandarin tree at home is fairly easy. However, harvesting a citrus fruit requires some effort. Once successfully grafted, the mandarin tree is sure to delight you with delicious and nutritious fruits.