How to Propagate Plum Trees from Root Saplings: A Step-by-Step Guide

Plum

There are many ways to propagate plum trees. Three main methods are distinguished: cuttings, grafting, and root suckers. These are good ways to preserve your favorite variety and save on purchasing new seedlings. If propagation by root suckers is chosen, consider the specifics of planting and care, as well as how soon the plum suckers will bear fruit, as a good harvest is the main goal of gardeners.

Types of fruit tree propagation

Gardeners are interested in the best way to propagate plum trees. The best method may vary for each individual. Plum trees are propagated using several methods:

propagation by layering;
from root shoots;
budding;
with bones.

Propagation by seeds is a good option for growing seedlings. While these seedlings lack varietal qualities, they are well suited for grafting. To do this, soak the seeds in water for 4 days, changing the water daily. Then, place the seeds in a container with wet sand and store for up to 6-7 months at temperatures ranging from 10°C to 0°C.

Attention!

After this, the seeds are planted in loose soil, and after a year, ready-made rootstocks are obtained for propagating other types of plum.

These rootstocks are used for grafting. The grafting procedure itself is simple. A flexible, young shoot is cut from a cultivar. A sharp knife is used to make a slanted cut and scrape off some of the bark. Then, an incision is made in the rootstock 6-7 cm from the ground, and the scion is inserted into the cut. The grafting site is tightly wrapped in plastic film, which is removed after a month. Using these two methods yields a bountiful harvest.

There are two methods of layering, depending on the species. For trees with low-growing branches, a horizontal method is used. A flexible shoot is bent toward the ground, into which an oblong depression 15-20 cm long and 8-15 cm deep is dug. The shoot is secured in a horizontal position with wire bent into an angle. The shoot is then covered with soil, compacted well, and watered, leaving only the tip exposed. The soil at the point where the stem meets the stem should be kept constantly moist; this will facilitate rooting of the layer. The presence of new foliage at the tip of the layer indicates successful rooting. This seedling is then cut from the main tree and planted in its permanent location.

The second method is "air layering." For varieties with high-growing branches, make a round cut on last year's shoot, cutting it up to 0.5 cm deep. Then, use moistened sphagnum or moss to form a fist-sized ball, place it over the cut, and secure it with opaque plastic film. Care is taken, periodically checking the moisture content of the moss. After roots have formed, the layer is cut off and then replanted in the soil. The soil is loosened before planting.

How to propagate plums by rootstocks

Propagating fruit trees from root suckers is only suitable for own-rooted, not grafted, trees. This is because the suckers of grafted trees will differ from the parent tree in color, shoot shape, buds, and leaves. Own-rooted plums and suckers, however, have a similar appearance. A scar will also be visible on the main trunk approximately 10-45 cm above the ground if a graft was performed. Select a plum tree with the most branched crown and a low trunk, and look for the sucker. The best choice is a sucker growing 1.5-2 m from the parent tree on the sunnier side; this location indicates the sucker is independent of the suckers at the base of the plum.

Select a 2-3-year-old shoot. All other shoots not used for propagation are uprooted to prevent them from robbing the main tree of nutrients. The main seedling is separated in the fall or spring before bud break. The taproot is horizontal, extending from the parent tree to the shoot. Using a sharp shovel, the taproot is severed on both sides.

Important!

After separation, the roots are sprinkled with ash and treated with garden pitch to prevent infection and loss of juice.

The root system is then inspected for damage and disease. These seedlings are typically poorly developed and lack additional roots. Therefore, before planting them in their permanent location, they are soaked in the rooting stimulator "Kornevin" for 15-20 hours. A third of the above-ground portion is trimmed off, the cut is coated with garden pitch, and the plants are planted in a greenhouse for further root development.

Next year, in the spring, this growth plums are planted Plant in loose, moist soil to establish roots in a permanent location. Water and fertilize the seedling regularly. Nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers are suitable during the acclimatization period, and potassium-containing mixtures are suitable during cold weather. These fertilizers are necessary for faster lignification of the shoots and problem-free cultivation during cold weather.

This method is best for rooting the following varieties:

"Medovka";
Anna Shpet
"Local Yellow";
"Tula black".

A rooted plum tree from a rootstock will bloom the following year, but a full harvest is not harvested for 3-4 years. These trees are easy to grow. They are hardy, productive, disease-resistant, and acclimated to local conditions.