Peculiarities of growing pears from seeds at home

Growing a pear tree—not a dwarf or ornamental one—from seed is possible. Yes, it's a complex, labor-intensive process that requires attention at every stage, starting with selecting the planting material, preparing it, and planting it. Naturally, such a plant will develop more slowly than a seedling from a nursery or a plant propagated by cuttings. But growing a pear from a seed at home is entirely possible.

Is it possible to grow a pear from a seed?

Growing a pear from seed is possible, but there's a high risk that the resulting plant won't retain the qualities of the parent tree, but will instead be a wild plant with small, tasteless fruits. This is especially common if the planting material comes from a hybrid variety that combines characteristics of different species.

Pears are grown from seeds in two cases:

1. When a wild fruit tree is expected to grow, they try to cultivate it on a rootstock. This approach allows for the creation of a strong, locally adapted seedling that will produce high yields, be resistant to most diseases, develop a strong root system, and provide a reliable foundation for the scion.
2. For ornamental purposes. Trees grown from seed are typically significantly smaller than their cultivated garden counterparts and are suitable for indoor potted plants or as a home decor.

A miniature tree, a bonsai, can be grown from a seed at home.

How to plant pear seeds

To successfully grow a seedling from a seed at home, it's important to follow a clear procedure and be patient. When selecting seeds, it's recommended to use local pear varieties; this will ensure the resulting seedlings are well-adapted to the local climate and resistant to pests and diseases.

It's recommended to select fruits located on the outer part of the tree's crown. This is where pears:

• receive more light
• are well formed
• ripen faster.

You can cut the seeds into halves or quarters, whichever is more convenient. Remove the seeds; they should be whole, smooth, and have skins free of cracks or other damage. Next, determine which seeds are still viable. This can be determined by placing the seeds in a saline solution or indigo carmine solution.

The saline solution is prepared according to the instructions as follows:

• For one liter of clean water take one tablespoon of salt;
• stir well;
• Place the seeds in the solution.

Any seeds that float to the surface of the solution are discarded. Many gardeners prefer an indigo carmine solution to a saline solution. To test the seedlings, soak them in clean water for 24 hours, then remove the skins, being careful not to damage the core, and place them in a dye solution (2 grams per liter is sufficient). The seeds are soaked in the dye for no more than 3 hours; healthy, suitable seeds should not be stained. Seeds unsuitable for planting will change color.

Next, the selected seeds planned for germination are thoroughly washed again to completely remove any traces of pulp and juice. This is done to prevent the development of pathogenic microorganisms. For the same purpose, the seeds are thoroughly dried for 24 hours. The planting material must be dry before stratification.

Stratification of pear seeds

https://youtu.be/kLSNFJ5bDQk

This is an artificial winter, creating conditions for the successful germination of planting material. The process lasts three months. Stratification is necessary to help the seeds overcome the dormant period and germinate. Without it, the seeds will not germinate.

Preparation is carried out step by step:

• the seeds are washed and dried;
• a plastic container with a lid or a plastic bag is filled with sphagnum (sawdust, peat, sand), moistened with water;
• the seeds are immersed to a depth of about 10 cm, they should not be deeper, but they should not be on the surface either, they are covered with a lid and the contents of the container/bag are periodically moistened;
• The container is placed in the refrigerator or a cool place (from +3 to -5 degrees) for three months.

You can sow seeds under snow for natural stratification. To do this, sow the seeds in peat pots (as shown in the photo) and bury them in the garden, in pre-prepared furrows filled with sand or ash. Be sure to cover them with mulch to prevent the seeds from freezing.

When the outside temperature reaches a positive value, the stratified seeds can be removed from the container and placed in a container with warm water for a couple of days to soften the shell.

Preparing containers and soil

The choice of containers for planting sprouted seeds is at the discretion of the gardener. Reusable pots should be pre-treated to remove any soil residue (if they were previously used to grow seedlings) and disinfected with a potassium permanganate solution to prevent the development of pathogens. Peat pots do not require this treatment, as they are biodegradable.

A drainage layer must be placed at the bottom of the selected container. The soil must meet strict requirements:

• it must be nutritious;
• do not contain spores of pathogenic bacteria and insect larvae.

Therefore, if you plan to use soil from your garden rather than a store-bought potting mix, it must be disinfected. You can warm it in the oven or water it with a potassium permanganate solution. The disinfected soil is mixed with fertilizer:

• ash;
• superphosphate;
• potassium sulfate.

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Planting sprouted pear seeds isn't particularly different from sowing any other seeds. Fill the pots 2/3 full with soil, make a small depression, and plant the seeds. Water as needed.

Step-by-step care

The key to successfully growing a pear from a seed is proper, consistent care. The first shoots usually emerge 2-3 weeks after sowing; they will need to be provided with the necessary conditions for successful development.

Microclimate

Pear trees don't tolerate dryness well, either in the soil or in the air. They require regular watering and misting, otherwise they can become infected with sooty mold. The temperature in the room where the young seedling is placed shouldn't exceed 20°C. ^OS. There it is necessary to arrange:

• regular ventilation;
• wet cleaning.

The pear tree loves light, but direct sunlight on young foliage will cause burns – the sprout may wither and even die.

It is optimal to place pots with sprouts on a balcony or veranda.

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Watering and fertilizing schedule

Sprouts require regular, frequent watering (as the soil dries out). It's best to avoid direct watering, as this can erode the root system and weaken the plant. It's recommended to use a spray bottle with room-temperature water for watering.

Before planting in the ground, crops are fed with organic fertilizers three times:

• the first time they are fed is at the time of sowing;
• the second - after the emergence of seedlings;
• the third - a month after the cotyledon leaves appear.

Pricking out is the transplantation of strengthened seedlings that have produced two or three true leaves from a common container into individual pots, accompanied by a 25% reduction in the length of the root.

Prick out and transplant into individual, larger containers. Before pricking out, moisten the soil thoroughly to prevent damage to healthy roots (remember, the pear's root system is fragile). Carefully remove the seedlings from the soil, removing any crooked or weak plants. Only strong, healthy plants are selected for replanting. Ideally, prick out the roots by a third of their length. You can dip the treated roots in a liquid clay solution or growth activators.

Until the seedlings become established, they continue to grow indoors. Every day, the pots should be taken outside for half an hour to an hour to harden off, preparing them for planting outdoors.

Transplanting pear seedlings into the ground

When transplanting young pear trees from pots, choose a well-lit, draft-free location in advance. Pears don't like stagnant soil—they shed their leaves and are prone to disease. Therefore, the site is also selected based on this criterion. The soil should be loose and breathable. If necessary, add organic fertilizer in advance.

The second half of May or the beginning of June is suitable for transplanting seedlings into the ground:

• the temperature no longer drops to critical levels;
• the daylight hours are quite long.

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A pear tree planted during this period will have time to develop a strong, robust root system before the frost, allowing it to successfully survive the winter. Don't be alarmed if the tree's crown develops poorly during the first month. All the plant's energy is focused on root formation, and growth will begin later.

The basic principles of planting are no different from planting other fruit crops:

1. In the chosen location, dig a hole no more than half a meter deep and with a diameter slightly larger than the root ball of the seedling.
2. A drainage layer of pebbles and sand is placed on the bottom and covered with soil.
3. Then the seedling is placed, a stake is carefully driven between the roots, and the trunk of the plant is tied to it.
4. The hole is filled with soil, compacted, and the surface is mulched with sawdust.

The seedling should be watered immediately after planting and then moistened as needed. Until the young pear tree's root system is properly developed, it has difficulty extracting sufficient water from the soil. It is recommended to cover the young pear tree for the winter to protect it from freezing. The soil around it should be covered with an additional layer of mulch and covered with snow.

Tips from experienced gardeners

There are many differing opinions on how to properly grow pears from seed. Experienced gardeners often debate the proper methods of stratification, seed preparation, and fruit selection. Approaches to planting in pots and permanent locations also vary. It's worth listening to all recommendations, but developing your own planting and care strategy is crucial, choosing the most appropriate ones:

1. If the seeds do not germinate after sowing, then most likely the preparation stages for planting were violated or the seeds were taken from unripe fruits.
2. In spring, it's essential to fertilize young plants. Nitrogen-based fertilizers are best. During flowering, seedlings can be treated with 2% sulfate.
3. Don't neglect pruning. A properly trained tree will yield a greater harvest and have a beautiful, well-groomed appearance.

Pears are resistant to the main diseases common to fruit crops, but preventative measures should not be neglected. Fungicides or folk remedies can be used for treatment.

Even a novice gardener can grow a pear tree from a seed at home. It will require some effort, and the results may not be quite what you expected. But by following basic guidelines, you can grow a strong rootstock and then graft a cultivar onto it, and the results will invariably be impressive.

The pear is a remarkable plant with great potential for nutrition and excellent ornamental qualities. Growing pears from seed for ornamental purposes can be a great hobby. Under certain conditions, fruiting can be achieved.