Is it necessary to prune and cover hostas for the winter, and when?

Flowers

Hostas are relatively easy to grow. They thrive in the shaded areas of the garden and don't require frequent watering or repotting. However, the most challenging time for this plant is winter. The awakening period and the bush's condition in spring depend on how well the plant was treated. Pruning, fertilizing, and pest control are all important steps in caring for hostas in the fall and preparing them for the coming winter.

Main events

Although the bush is perennial and survives even cold and light winters, damage is inevitable unless at least minimal pruning is performed. Whether or not to prune the entire hosta is a contentious issue for most gardeners, but it's far from the only necessary action to plan.

Trimming

Pruning refers to either removing flower stalks or cutting off all the leaves. The former should be done in late summer. The plant is an ornamental foliage plant and does not produce beautiful, lush buds; its flowering is purely practical, serving to disperse seeds. To ensure lush foliage, flowers are removed immediately after the first yellow spots appear or a few days after they appear. If they remain until fall, they must be cut back before winter.

Note!

Hostas shouldn't be pruned at the root. A 5-7 centimeter "stem" should be left at the root.

Gardeners who advocate pruning cite the fact that this allows the plant to accumulate more sap in the roots, making them more resilient and better able to survive the winter. In the spring, the bush is no longer weighed down by old leaves and wastes no time shedding them, but immediately begins growing new ones. Furthermore, last year's growth can introduce various infections and attract pests, which can negatively impact the new foliage and spoil the hosta's appearance.

Opponents of pruning, however, point out that leaves buried under a layer of snow will turn into compost. They will act as a good mulch for the soil, providing the first nutrients the plant so desperately needs in spring. Importantly, pruning any hosta at the wrong time can be very dangerous. It's crucial to ensure all cuts have time to close before the first frost. If this procedure is omitted altogether, the risk of frost is minimal.

Professional growers believe that preparing hostas for the upcoming winter and shelter can be limited to partial pruning. This is the safest option, although a full pruning is also possible. This means removing only wilted and yellow leaves, flower stalks, and stems suspected of disease, leaving the rest. Avoiding this procedure entirely is not recommended, as it could result in the death of the plant.

Shelter

Hostas of any variety must be covered in the fall if temperatures drop below -10 degrees Celsius. This procedure is aimed at increasing snow cover; insulation itself is not required. Covering may be unnecessary in southern regions.

It's important to choose the right material. Even under snow, the bush remains "alive," so roofing felt or plastic sheeting won't work: moisture will accumulate underneath, blocking air flow, and the bush will rot. You can use:

agrofibre;
burlap;
spruce branches.

First, thoroughly mulch the soil, then cover the bush completely, leaving a small "skirt" on the ground. Some gardeners increase the layers of mulch in the area where the root system is located under the soil. If the bush is spreading, additionally weigh down the material with thick branches, and tie the "crown" with a rope or twine. This provides reliable protection from the wind.

In northern regions, multi-layered cover is essential. Hostas are prepared for the long winter cold by covering the roots with a layer of peat, spruce branches, and then covering them with a large-pore geotextile. After the first snowfall in any region, the bush should be covered manually. This way, even with light precipitation, the hosta will be protected.

Note!

Covering the plant with snow provides additional moisture to the soil around the plant in the spring, slowing down the melting and, consequently, protecting it from severe spring frosts.

Preparation timeframes

Planting and caring for hostas in open ground is the primary method for most regions. Regardless of the region, the preparation timeframe is the same. After pruning, fertilizing, and the final watering, allow 2-3 weeks before the first frost. If it's not possible to complete all the work, it's best to skip leaf removal and limit yourself to trimming the flower stalks.

In the Moscow region and central Russia, there's no need for extensive shelter for bushes. Careful mulching and pruning are sufficient. These tasks can be carried out from mid-September to mid-October. In the Volga region, special attention should be paid to wind protection, as large bushes may not be able to withstand such a load.

Given the Ural climate, it's important to consider the forecast for each specific year. Snow cover typically appears immediately, with the first frosts occurring in late October. Therefore, hosta preparation should begin in mid-September and be completed no later than early October. Particular attention should be paid to mulching; the cover can be a single layer. If the forecast predicts a winter with little snow, it's better to apply several layers of protection and cover with additional snow.

Contrary to popular belief, hostas thrive in Siberian winter conditions. A thick layer of snow provides their best protection. Regions closer to the Far East experience less precipitation and stronger cold winds, which should be taken into account when preparing for the winter. The optimal covering option is spruce branches, which are laid down after thorough mulching. If severe frosts are expected, the plant can be additionally covered with soil mixed with straw. In areas with significant wind loads, it is necessary to additionally use agrofibre. Preparation should be completed by mid-September to prevent the first frost from damaging the root system.

Note!

Agrofibre is a durable material that can withstand even the strongest winds. Unlike film, it is highly breathable.

Milder winters are common in the Leningrad Region, but snow often doesn't stay there, melting periodically until January. Therefore, it's important to thoroughly mulch the roots, cover, and tie up the bush, especially if it's large and mature. All work should be completed by mid-October; covering the hosta in early November is acceptable, but pruning should be completed by the 15th of October.

Typical mistakes

Although hostas are considered among the most low-maintenance plants, even minor care errors, especially in autumn, can significantly hinder the plant's development and growth. Frost is the most common cause of root system damage, followed by pests seeking food in harsh climates. Therefore, avoid:

untimely transfers;
late prunings;
incorrect feeding;
drying out the soil;
greenhouse effect.

It's not recommended to repot the shrub after August. During this time, the roots won't have time to strengthen and will be weakened, making it unlikely to survive the winter successfully. The ideal time to repot a hosta is spring. Late pruning is also undesirable; it's best to avoid this procedure altogether.

Pre-treatment

By following the rules for preparing your beloved hostas for winter, you can ensure a quick spring awakening. Particular attention should be paid to fertilizing, mulching, and final watering. Timing should be based on annual forecasts and the average climate, but the general rules for pre-treatment are universal.

Watering should be gradually reduced after August. It's best to limit watering to morning sprays in the absence of natural precipitation. If the bush is located in a sunny location, water regularly before the cold weather sets in. This allows the roots to absorb moisture, becoming more flexible and resilient. This is beneficial before the harsh winter. Watering should only be stopped after the plant is covered.

Hostas respond best to complex fertilizers in the fall, while all stimulating preparations should be avoided. Ideally, apply fertilizer immediately after watering or rain, into moist soil. In the fall, only root feeding is recommended; foliar feeding is no longer necessary, as foliar development is not necessary during this period. Superphosphates and potassium concentrates can be used, 30-40 grams per square meter of soil, diluted according to the instructions.

In winter, caterpillars and beetles pose a particular threat to the hosta. Slugs and snails are virtually inactive during this period. You can protect yourself from all these pests using simple folk remedies. For example, before covering the hosta, sprinkle the entire area under the leaf canopy with crushed eggshells. In the spring, this layer will provide calcium, which is beneficial for the hosta. As the hosta awakens, nematodes, one of the most dangerous pests, become active. It's impossible to eradicate them, so you should check the leaves before covering. Finely chop one hosta branch, place it in a glass, cover it with water, and leave it in the light for a couple of hours. Afterward, carefully examine it: if there are small white worms in the water, dig up the hosta immediately to prevent it from infecting other plantings in the spring.

Note!

Treating the plant with strong chemicals to prevent pests before winter is not recommended. This will weaken the plant, and the pests will likely return in the spring.

Mulching hostas before winter is essential. A mixture of peat, sawdust, and dry humus in equal proportions works well. The resulting layer should be at least 1 centimeter thick. The more severe the frost and the less snow cover, the more mulch is needed. If there are a lot of slugs and snails in the area, add tobacco dust and phytosporin to the mixture. The former will protect against pests, the latter against fungi carried by these creatures. In the spring, the mulch will act as a valuable fertilizer.

Helpful tips

When determining whether hostas of any variety need to be covered for the winter and how to treat them, it's best to follow these simple guidelines. Pruning should only be done with sharp pruning shears. Do not manually remove even yellow leaves or dried flower stalks, or use dull knives or scissors. Torn edges take a long time to heal, attracting pests. The bush will expend a lot of energy healing them, weakening the hosta for the winter.