Dendrobium orchid characteristics and tips for caring for the flower at home

Dendrobium orchid In the photo, it looks like a work of art. The chiseled flower heads are like porcelain, the hues are bright and pure. Botanists classify these plants, which were found on Earth as early as the Late Cretaceous period, ending 65 million years ago, as members of the epiphyte family. They root on tree bark and rocks, adapting to fairly harsh conditions. Only Antarctica does not grow them. Despite their ability to withstand the vagaries of weather in the wild, caring for dendrobiums indoors requires specialized knowledge.

Description of Dendrobium

About 900 species of orchids growing in the wild have been described. Thanks to the work of breeders, 1,500 varieties of epiphytes are known. They vary in size, shape, and color, but they also share common characteristics.

These are aerial roots whose surface is covered with velamen—a multilayered spongy tissue. Mature plants have one main stem, while the remaining stems are called pseudobulbs, which also produce leaves and flower stalks. The leaves are green and can be located at the top of the stem or along its entire length; their shape depends on the species. The size of the inflorescences, their color, and the duration of flowering also depend on the orchid type.

The most popular varieties grown by flower growers:

1. Dendrobium apollo, or noble, grows up to 90 cm tall, with fleshy stems and elliptical, paired leaves. The flowers are large, up to 10 cm in diameter, white, with a burgundy spot on the lower lip.
2. Yamamoto is a Nobile hybrid. Low-growing bushes with vibrantly colored flowers. This group also includes varieties such as Spring Dream, Yellow Song, and others.
3. A beautiful orchid with small, snow-white inflorescences (up to 3 cm) and yellow lips. Height: up to 70 cm, leaves are fleshy and long, located at the top of the stem.
4. Dendrobium kingii is a low-growing epiphyte, reaching up to 50 cm, with narrow foliage and a cluster of peduncles at the end of the stem. Dendrobium petals range in color from white to purple. The inflorescences have a very interesting shape, with a three-lobed lip and fused sepals.

There are so many orchid varieties that it's impossible to describe them all. But when choosing a pet, it's important to consider their different flowering periods, the quality of fertilizer applied, and the length of daylight hours. If these factors are ignored, the plant will die from improper care.

Dendrobium Orchid - Care and Propagation

Enticed by the blooming flower upon purchase, the new owner, if an inexperienced gardener, believes they've acquired an easy-to-care-for plant. Indeed, the orchid does look good for the first few months after purchase. During pre-sale preparation, the substrate was treated with growth stimulants and fertilizers, providing nutrients for several months. However, if favorable conditions aren't created, the epiphyte will die.

Dendrobium nobile and its varieties thrive in apartments, provided they are provided with natural conditions. It's important to observe a seasonal pattern with clearly defined periods of active growth, flowering, and rest:

• vegetation - new shoots appear and pseudobulbs are formed;
• dormancy - budding occurs;
• bloom.

Different orchid species have different cycle lengths. However, the basic care guidelines differ only slightly.

Choosing a location

Dendrobiums are demanding when it comes to light. They prefer long days of at least 12 hours, but they avoid direct sunlight, as it can burn the delicate petals and leaves. To ensure vigorous growth, a grow light is required.

Before introducing orchids to your apartment, you need to choose a location. It's not advisable to move them later: even a slight change in position can stress the plant, causing wilting and drying out of the buds. It's best to place the pot on a windowsill facing east, northeast, west, or southwest. A south-facing window is definitely not suitable, as it will overheat during the summer.

Read alsoDendrobium phalaenopsis: varieties, care, cultivation, replanting Local flower shops typically stock two types of orchids: Dendrobium phalaenopsis and Dendrobium nobile. They are generally similar, but have distinctive features…

Comfortable microclimate

Most epiphytes grow in tropical climates, but this doesn't necessarily mean they require constant heat and high humidity. In their natural habitat, they must withstand strong winds, drought, and occasional periods of shade. To ensure the plant's comfort, regularly mist the stems and leaves, moisten the substrate, and increase the amount of sphagnum moss to retain water. However, draining any accumulated water from the tray is essential, as otherwise the roots will rot. The recommended humidity is 55-65%.

During the growing season—spring and summer—young shoots begin to actively develop, forming pseudobulbs that accumulate nutrients and moisture. The optimal temperature during this period is 20-24°C in spring and a maximum of up to 30°C in summer. During the dormant period, in autumn and winter, it's best to keep the temperature between 15-18°C. During this time, reduce humidity, reduce the frequency of watering, and avoid misting. As soon as new shoots appear on the pseudobulbs, the dormant period is over.

To stimulate flowering, create temperature fluctuations. During the growing season, maintain a daytime temperature of 20-25°C and a nighttime temperature of 15-20°C. During the dormant period in autumn, maintain temperatures of 12-18°C and 7-14°C, respectively. In winter, fluctuations are unnecessary; a constant daily temperature of 10-18°C is maintained.

Selecting a container and preparing the soil

Beginner gardeners are better off planting the plant in a transparent pot to monitor the condition of the root system.

Requirements for the landing capacity:

• sufficient number of drainage holes;
• regular shape, without bends on the sides - when replanting from pot-bellied or curved pots, it is easy to damage fragile roots;
• material - wood or plastic.

Glass or ceramic items are not recommended, as they can cause the underground portion of the plant to become too cold. Flowers look best in wicker baskets, as they also prevent water from stagnating.

The substrate can be purchased at the store or made at home. To do this, collect old pine bark, cut it into 1-3 cm pieces, and boil it for 15 minutes to disinfect it. Mix it with charcoal, dried and disinfected fern roots, coconut fiber, or crushed bottle corks. If the moisture level is insufficient, supplement the substrate with sphagnum moss, which retains water well.

Orchids need soil to anchor their roots: nutrients accumulate in the pseudobulbs. However, peat or polystyrene foam can be added to the slightly unusual soil mixture to improve its looseness. Then place the container in a tray, pour boiling water over it, and let it sit for 15 minutes. Then strain the water, and allow the soil to dry.

Moisturizing

Overwatering can quickly cause root rot. To prevent this, re-water the plant only when the substrate is completely dry. It's best to avoid tap water, or let it settle first and mix it with distilled water in a 1:1 ratio. Rainwater is the best option. During the active growing season, water twice a week, once a week in the fall, and once a month in the winter. You can use a watering can or immerse the pot in a bowl of water for 10-15 minutes. If any water accidentally spills on the leaves or buds, blot it with a soft cloth.

Fertilization

You can buy a mineral complex made specifically for orchids at the store. Before watering, dilute it according to the instructions. However, experienced gardeners recommend diluting the solution twice as much with water. If you purchased a regular complex for flowering orchids, dilute it 1:3. During the period of active growth, apply nitrogen-rich fertilizers. When the bulbs begin to form and the dendrobium prepares for flowering, switch to potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

To stimulate flower buds, spray the foliage. In this case, dilute the solution 1:5. Granules or tablets are not recommended, nor are home remedies. Experimenting with orchids is not recommended.

How to get rid of diseases and insect pests

Symptoms of infection include yellowing and rot on stems and leaves, prolonged absence of flowering, and wilting of buds. The orchid should be immediately separated from other plants, the affected parts should be cut off, and the "wounds" should be treated with brilliant green or crushed activated charcoal. Bacterial infections will usually cause the plants to recover, while viral infections will require disposal.

Dendrobiums are susceptible to pests when care instructions are not followed, such as overwatering or excessively dry air. They can be controlled with home remedies: spray with a soapy solution 1-2 times a week and remove the larvae from the leaves by hand. If there are numerous insects, insecticides are essential. Actellic is effective against common orchid pests, such as aphids, spider mites, and thrips.

Care during the dormant period

Plants don't require shaping. Trim off faded leaves and buds, and when flowering is over, remove dried bulbs and stems. In the latter case, leave the stump. This helps prepare the orchid for the dormant season and maintain its decorative appearance.

During the dormant period, stop watering and move the pot to a dry, bright, and cool location. As soon as signs of growth appear, resume the normal care regimen. The dormant period lasts approximately two months.

Transplantation and propagation

After purchase, there is no need to transfer to fresh substrate: the nutrients will last for 4-6 months. The transplant is being carried out for the following reasons:

1. The roots grew, filled the container and became cramped.
2. The substrate has crumbled and the roots cannot hold the flower in an upright position.
3. Rot was noticed in the underground part.
4. The soil has become salty.

When repotting, remove damaged roots and bark. Remove the plant carefully to avoid damaging the fragile shoots.

It's difficult to obtain offspring when propagating them indoors. In the wild, even individual plant fragments broken off from the mother plant produce offspring. But it's still worth a try.

The easiest way is to separate the offspring that form from the buds at the bottom of the stem. Use sphagnum moss for rooting, covering the top to create a mini greenhouse. After a while, the offspring will take root and bloom like adult orchids.

Another relatively simple method is by cuttings. A leafless pseudobulb with dormant buds is cut at the root. The bulbs are divided so that each bulb contains 2-3 buds. The wounds are disinfected with brilliant green or crushed activated charcoal, and the twigs are placed in a container with sphagnum moss. The greenhouse is moved to a bright location and maintained at a temperature of 20-22°C. Water the soil as needed, and ventilate if condensation forms on the lid. Roots usually form within 3 weeks. Once they reach a length of about 5 cm, the new orchids are repotted into separate containers with substrate.

Dividing the mother plant is more difficult. When repotting, use a sharp knife to separate the rhizomes, pseudobulbs, and young shoots from a bush with 5-8 shoots. Treat the cuts with disinfectant and leave them outdoors in the shade for 12 hours to allow the wounds to dry. Only then should they be planted in orchid substrate. The plant will require a little extra attention at first. It may be necessary to cover it with plastic wrap for insulation. Once new leaves appear, care for it as usual.