How and when to plant cherries in the Moscow region

Sweet cherries are heat-loving fruit trees. For a long time, their cultivation was impossible in the Moscow region. Thanks to the work of breeders, varieties suitable for growing in the temperate climate of the central part of the country have been developed. Cherry saplings thrive in the Moscow region if planted correctly in the spring. With the right site and proper care, the trees consistently produce high yields.

Suitable varieties for the Moscow region

Cherries differ from sour cherries and other fruit trees in their demanding nature and high sensitivity to low temperatures. Therefore, varieties with good frost resistance are selected for planting in the Moscow region and other regions with moderate climates. Even regional varieties are susceptible to spring and autumn frosts. To obtain a good harvest, cherries should be planted in areas with fertile soil, well-drained, and sheltered from cold winds. Therefore, when developing new varieties, emphasis is placed on the adaptability to cold climates and plant hardiness.

Valery Chkalov

Cherry tree seedlings of this variety reach a height of 6 meters. The plants produce large, wide, heart-shaped fruits with a blunt apex. The skin of the fruits ranges from dark red to deep burgundy, and the flesh is the same color and has a pleasant flavor. They are eaten fresh, canned, and used for winter preserves. The trees tolerate winter temperatures down to -30°C. For good fruiting, the plants require protection from coccomycosis and gray mold. The following varieties are suitable for pollination:

• Zhabule;
• Bigarro;
• April;
• Early ripening;
• Early June.

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Bull's heart

Mature trees grow to a height of 5 m and form a dense, bushy crown. The fruits ripen gradually, not immediately. The first harvest begins in mid-June. Each berry weighs up to 10 g. The harvest is not suitable for long-term storage or long-distance transportation, as it spoils very quickly. The fruits are covered with a thin skin. To prevent skin rupture, irrigation is reduced during the ripening stage. For good fruiting, the variety requires the presence of pollinators. Mature trees tolerate temperatures down to -25°C.

Iput

This variety is one of the most productive, partially pollinated. The medium-sized trees have a broadly pyramidal crown with dense foliage. The fruits are above average in size and heart-shaped. As they ripen, the skin gradually darkens, becoming almost black. The trees consistently produce a good harvest and are resistant to fungal infections. Mature plants and seedlings of this cherry variety tolerate severe frosts well during prolonged winters. The only drawback is skin cracking due to overwatering.

Large-fruited

The average fruit weight of this variety is 12 grams, with some reaching 18 grams. They are covered with a thin, dense skin. This allows them to be transported over long distances and stored for a long time. The first harvest is in late June. Large-fruited trees begin producing early. The first fruits are harvested four years after planting. Yields reach 55 kg. Plants of this variety tolerate prolonged drought and low temperatures well. They do not require regular fertilization and are undemanding in terms of care and cultivation. For full fruiting, cherries in the central zone require pollinators.

People's Syubarova

Trees of this variety thrive in a variety of climates. Mature specimens are tall, with a straight, sturdy trunk and a well-branched crown. They successfully withstand strong winds and bear the weight of winter snow. Seedlings of this variety can even be grown in loamy or sandy loam soil. The fruits have dark red flesh and a dense, matching skin. They have a very pleasant, slightly sweet flavor.

Franz Joseph

When cultivating this variety, steppe cherry is used as rootstock. The tree grows large with a sparse, broadly oval crown. The round fruits have a distinct longitudinal groove down the center. The flesh and skin of the medium-sized fruits are yellow with an amber tint. Fruiting begins in the sixth year. Some specimens produce their first harvest in the fourth year after planting. When young, the tree produces a small number of fruits, but the yield increases with age. The fruits keep fresh for a long time and are suitable for long-distance transportation.

Ovstuzhenka

This variety has the best frost resistance. During winter, trees can withstand temperatures down to -45°C. It is conditionally self-fertile. Its compact crown and low tree height make it suitable for commercial cultivation. It produces large fruits with sweet, juicy flesh. The following varieties are planted nearby as pollinators:

• I'm jealous;
• Raditsa;
• Iput;
• Tyutchevka.

Vasilisa

This variety was developed by Ukrainian breeders. Plants grow up to 4 meters tall and produce large fruits weighing up to 14 grams. The first harvest is harvested the following year after planting. Ripening usually begins in June, but in cold weather, fruiting occurs a month later. The variety successfully tolerates wintering and prolonged periods without watering, and is easy to care for. Frequent summer rains can cause the fruits to crack.

Jealousy

The trees are low-growing, with a pyramidal crown. This variety is very productive. Although the fruits are small, they have sweet flesh and a pleasant aroma. The cultivar tolerates frost well. Even during flowering, the plants can withstand short-term temperature drops to -5°C. The fruits store well, remaining juicy and firm. They have a burgundy skin on top and dark red flesh. Cherries are planted nearby as pollinators for this variety:

• Compact;
• Iput;
• Venyaminova;
• Tyutchevka;
• Ovstuzhenka.

Tyutchevka

This modern-bred variety possesses many unusual characteristics for this crop. The trees grow to medium size with a small, spherical crown. It successfully tolerates winter temperatures and resists fungal infections. The fruits are very large and tasty, with juicy, sweet flesh. They separate easily from the stem. Even fully ripe berries do not fall to the ground, remaining attached to the branch. To increase yield, Raditsa or Ovstuzhenka varieties are planted nearby.

Timing of planting cherries in spring and autumn

In the Moscow region, cherry trees are usually planted in the spring. This is done as early as possible, before the buds swell. The exact date is chosen based on weather conditions. If the weather is warm and the soil is warm, cherry trees are planted in early April. If the weather is cool, planting is postponed until the end of the month. The dormant seedling is placed in completely thawed soil.

https://youtu.be/mB83bSck0po

Sometimes plants are planted in the fall. In this case, the timing is chosen so that the trees have time to adapt and take root before the cold weather sets in. Planting occurs 30-45 days before freezing temperatures reach freezing.

Planting cherries in open ground

Many modern varieties are adapted to the cool climate of the central part of Russia. However, for the trees to thrive, they require comfortable conditions. This crop requires very high maintenance. To ensure abundant annual fruiting, a suitable site is selected and the soil is prepared in advance. Once planted, the trees are carefully tended.

Selecting a seedling

Planting material is purchased from specialized nurseries. One-year-old seedlings are easier to plant. Tall trees with well-developed root systems and numerous branches are unsuitable, as they have a harder time establishing roots. The grafting point is inspected on the selected specimens. It is located 5 to 20 cm from the root collar and appears as a slight bend in the trunk. The absence of a bend in the plant indicates that the seedling is a sapling. Such plants produce a harvest that does not match the declared varietal qualities.

This annual plant has 2 to 4 shoots up to 20 cm long. The plant height should not exceed 1.5 m. Plants with well-developed roots no longer than 25 cm are suitable for planting. Unbranched specimens with a trunk diameter greater than 2 cm thrive. After planting, the top of such a tree is pruned 20 cm above the bud to stimulate branching.

When purchasing, inspect the seedling's root system. It shouldn't be too dry. There shouldn't be any growths or other damage on the bark or underground part. Cracks and stiff tissue indicate the seedling is overdried. There should also be no unfurled leaves or swollen buds.

Selecting a site

Cherries are planted in areas well protected from the wind. Slopes facing south, southwest, or southeast are suitable. Groundwater should not be closer than 2 meters to the soil surface. A low fence is recommended. Excessively tall structures are unsuitable, as they block sunlight from reaching the plants. Lowlands are unsuitable for planting cherries, as they can accumulate meltwater and cold air.

The plant grows well in sandy or loamy soil. To ensure a bountiful harvest, plant at least two trees close together. Cherry trees have a spreading crown and a well-developed root system. Therefore, maintain a distance of 4 to 5 meters between seedlings.

Cherries, with their extensive root systems, should not be planted next to apple trees. This proximity causes the apple tree's roots to penetrate deep into the soil, resulting in a lack of moisture and nutrients. Apricots are not suitable neighbors for cherries, as their root system contains many toxic substances. Currants and raspberries should be planted farther away from the fruit tree to prevent them from suffering from the same diseases and pests. Nightshade crops should not be planted nearby due to the risk of verticillium wilt.

Preparing the pit

To plant seedlings in the spring, prepare the site well in advance, starting in the fall. If this isn't possible, prepare the soil a few days before the scheduled planting date. Dig the selected site thoroughly. Root systems develop and take hold better in loose soil. For good seedling development, slightly acidic, medium-density soil is essential. If the site contains a lot of peat and black soil, add clay. The same procedure is used if the soil contains a lot of sand. If the soil contains a lot of clay, add a peat-sand mixture.

The area is dug over several times to ensure even mixing of the ingredients. Then, a hole is dug for the seedling, 0.7 to 1 m in diameter and 0.6 m deep. Fine gravel or coarse sand is added to the bottom for drainage. A nutrient mixture consisting of the following components is placed on top:

• 30 l of humus;
• 60 g superphosphate;
• 60 g potassium sulfate.

The mixture is mixed until smooth and watered generously. Form a small mound over the planting hole.

Planting a seedling

Before planting, carefully inspect the roots and trim away any damaged areas. Place the seedling in water for 24 hours. Just before planting, soak the roots in a mixture of clay and cow manure. This mixture improves the plant's survival rate. After removing the required amount of soil from the hole, place the seedling in it. Position the plant so that the root collar is 5 cm above the soil surface. Spread the roots on the mound. Fill the open space with soil. The soil is then compacted to eliminate air pockets.

For stability, tie the seedling to a stake with a loose knot made of soft cloth. After planting, water the cherry tree with 30 liters of water. Add soil on top, forming a rim around the edges of the hole. Cover the soil around the trunk with a 4 cm layer of dry humus. Trim the side shoots to a length of 50 cm.

Post-planting care

Once planted, the cherry tree requires little care. In spring, before the sap begins to flow, pruning is performed to shape the crown. The lower two to three skeletal shoots are cut back to the ring, leaving no stump. The exposed tissue is covered with garden pitch or painted with oil paint. If the pruning window is missed and the buds on the tree have already swollen, the procedure is postponed until next year.

When the air temperature rises to 18°C, the trees are treated to prevent pest and disease infestations. The treatments used kill pests that have overwintered in the surface soil and in the bark.

If all the necessary nutrients were added at planting, the trees will not require additional feeding for the next few years. Additional phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are added only after four years. Nitrogen is added to the soil annually. The first time is in the spring, after the weather has finally warmed up. Fertilizer is applied again in early June. Grafting is done in the spring, if necessary.

In summer, the soil around the tree trunk is loosened to a depth of 10 cm using a hand cultivator or hoe. This is best done 24 hours after rain or watering. Watering is performed 3-5 times during the summer. The plant's development is constantly monitored. At the first signs of disease or insect infestation, the tree is immediately treated with medicinal compounds.

In July, mature trees are fed with fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium. A month later, the soil is enriched with organic matter. Throughout the summer, the area around the tree trunk is cleared of weeds. At the end of the season, after the foliage has yellowed, the soil is dug to a depth of 10 cm. Water the tree generously while the leaves are still present. After the leaves have fallen, plant debris is collected and burned. The tree is then treated with pest and disease protection products.

Reproduction

Like other stone fruits, cherries do not retain parental traits when grown from seed. Therefore, this method is not used for propagation. Grafting is used to produce young plants. This is most easily accomplished by copulation. Scion cuttings are taken from high-yielding varieties. Young seedlings of highly resistant varieties are used as rootstock. Grafted plants retain all varietal characteristics and produce a bountiful harvest. The resulting plants have good frost resistance.

Cherry trees are also propagated using cuttings. However, these have very poor rooting rates. Of all planting material, no more than 5% root. Therefore, this method is rarely used in practice due to its low productivity.

Diseases and pests

Most cherry varieties are resistant to fungal infections. However, the following diseases still develop more frequently:

1. When infected with Clasterosporium, black spots appear on the leaves. The affected tissue then dies. As a result, the foliage falls off and the fruit dries up.
2. As cocomycosis progresses, small reddish spots appear on the foliage, gradually coalescing into larger spots. The disease develops in cold, rainy weather. The leaves turn brown and fall off.
3. Trees infected with moniliosis experience dry leaves and shoots, and fruit rot. The infection quickly spreads to the entire crown of the tree. The infection is especially common in low-lying areas with high humidity and dense plantings.

Copper-containing products are used to combat fungal infections. The product "Horus" is effective in killing fungi. A solution is prepared from 30 g of the product and 10 liters of water. Treatment is carried out 3-4 times at intervals of 5-7 days. Before treatment, all infected parts of the plant are cut off and destroyed.

The following insects are most dangerous for cherries:

• leaf roller;
• cherry fly;
• black aphid;
• cherry pipe twister.

Insects attack plant tissue and feed on its sap. As a result of infestation, the tree weakens and yield decreases. Insecticides are used to kill the pests. Treatment with "Karbofos" or "Aktara" is effective. For small pest infestations, they can be controlled using folk remedies. Trees are sprayed with an infusion of tobacco crumbs mixed with laundry soap.

Harvesting and storing fruits

The berries are picked after they acquire the dark color characteristic of the variety. Do not pick unripe berries. They have an unpleasant, sour taste. Ripening is impossible indoors. Overripe berries fall off. Birds eat them, and they rot and attract insects. The berries are picked in the morning after the dew has dried. If it rained the day before, picking the berries is postponed until they are dry. Otherwise, the berries do not store well.

Ripe cherries don't keep for long. At room temperature, they stay fresh for no more than seven days. In the cold, their shelf life increases to three weeks if the berries are completely dry. To preserve them for the winter, they are frozen. Before placing them in the freezer, they are thoroughly washed and dried. Then, they are placed in a container and frozen. Thawed cherries are used to make pie fillings, sauces, compotes, and other dishes.

Reviews

Elena, 36 years old:

After planting the cherry tree, I didn't believe for a long time that it would survive and bear fruit. But despite my doubts, the tree took root and blossomed. The following year, it produced flowers, and then berries. Now the tree is large and bears fruit regularly.

Maria, 44 years old:

I have several cherry trees in my garden. They regularly produce a good harvest. Every branch is covered with bright red berries. For the winter, I cover them with agrofibre for safety, although the varieties are quite frost-resistant.

To ensure regular fruiting in the Moscow region, only varieties with good frost resistance or those adapted for cultivation in the Central Region are planted. By creating favorable conditions and choosing the right variety, gardeners can reap a bountiful harvest.