Sweet cherries are a southern crop, and they've always struggled in temperate climates. There, they froze more often than they produced fruit. Modern varieties are distinguished by increased frost resistance and hardiness. Sweet cherries are slowly but surely making their way north.
Climate conditions
Cherries would thrive in a temperate climate if not for the low winter temperatures and frosts that can destroy an entire crop in minutes. Otherwise, this climate is perfectly suitable for fruit crops, including cherries.
Climatic features:
- winter is snowy, moderately frosty;
- summer – warm, moderately humid;
- average winter temperature – from -8 to -12°C (respectively for the southwest and northeast of the region);
- the average summer temperature is from +17 to +21°C (respectively for the northwest and southeast of the region)
Planting frost-resistant cherries in this climate and following proper cultivation techniques can yield a good harvest. The key to successful fruiting is fertilizing to boost the tree's vigor and providing reliable winter shelter.
The best varieties
For temperate climates, you can choose a variety with any varietal characteristics—super-tasty fruit, exceptional cold resistance, dwarf varieties, etc. Detailed descriptions with photos will help you choose the right cherry.
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Many regions of Russia are limited in their choice of garden crops due to extremely low temperatures throughout the year. Cherries, as is well known, are heat-loving trees and, for example, have not been grown in Siberia for a long time…
The sweetest
Sweetness and sugariness are characteristic of cherries. Whatever variety you plant, the result is sweet berries with juicy, crunchy flesh.
Julia
It produces fruits with tasty, slightly crunchy flesh. Yields up to 20 kg per tree. This makes harvesting difficult. However, the variety is resistant to fungi and bacteria. A single treatment with pesticides is sufficient for the entire growing season.
Yaroslavna
The sugar content of Yaroslavna cherries reaches 14.2%. This is a record for domestic cherries. Yield: 40-60 kg. Yaroslavna is actively grown by farmers engaged in mass fruit production. Once ripe, the fruits remain on the tree for about two weeks without losing their marketability or quality.
Tyutchevka
This old, proven variety is only a few percent self-fertile. However, it is resistant to fungi. It belongs to the mid-late group. It is grown near Revna, Ovstuzhenka, or Iput. Tyutchevka has average frost resistance. Yield: 30-40 kg. Self-pollination is 5-6%.
Short stature
Dwarf cherry varieties in temperate latitudes have a better chance of producing a good harvest. This is easily explained by the plants' biological characteristics. Tall cherry trees have to expend a lot of energy to withstand the harsh local climate. They develop a lush crown, expending energy that could otherwise be used to produce fruit. Dwarf and low-growing varieties don't have this problem—these miniature trees focus their energy on fruiting.
A key advantage of miniature trees is ease of care and harvesting. Dwarf varieties reach no more than 2 m in height, while low-growing varieties reach no more than 3 m.
Saratov baby
Its main advantage is its extremely early ripening. The hybrid was created by crossing cherries with sweet cherries. The first fruits can be enjoyed after three years. They are quite large—up to 6 g—and delicious. They make excellent jam, pie fillings, and desserts.
This variety is quite climate-flexible, adapting to virtually any conditions. It tolerates droughts well, but most importantly, its flower buds can withstand frost. This characteristic is crucial for many gardeners when choosing the right cherry tree. The only drawback of this "little one" is the need for a pollinator.
Anthracite dwarf
A fairly new variety with excellent adaptability. The fruits are beautiful, large, and delicious, weighing 6 g. Drought-tolerant, but only for short periods.
Winter pomegranate
Height – up to 180 cm. However, a full harvest of approximately 10 kg is only achieved in the tree's seventh summer. The variety is self-pollinating, so it can bear fruit without assistance—it doesn't require a source of cross-pollination. "Winter Pomegranate" is sensitive to weather. Rain and cold negatively affect the quantity and flavor of the berries.
The "Winter Pomegranate" berries are dark burgundy and medium-sized, weighing about 4 grams. They have small seeds and a flavor without a tart aftertaste. The "Winter Pomegranate" tree is not only productive and frost-resistant, but also beautiful.
Winter-hardy
There are several particularly winter-hardy cherry varieties that bear fruit particularly well in temperate climates. These varieties withstand frost better than others and have a better chance of not only surviving the winter but also producing a superb harvest.
Iput
The Iput variety is winter-hardy to temperatures as low as -30°C. The first berries can be tasted only in the fifth year. Fruit weight is up to 6.5 g. The yield per tree is 30 kg. Disadvantages of the Iput variety include difficulty separating the pits, fruit splitting, and the need for pollinators. The berries ripen early, are firm, and transport well.
Jealousy
It requires pollinators. Self-pollination is no more than 5%. The dark-red berries are popular in cooking and make high-quality canned compotes. Each fruit weighs 4.8-5 g. Yield: 30 kg. Frost-resistant to -30°C.
Ovstuzhenka
A delicious variety, early ripening and hardy. The berries make excellent preserves. Thanks to their excellent shelf life and transportability, "Ovstuzhenka," along with "Yarsolavnaya," is among the best commercial varieties. A single "Ovstuzhenka" yields 25-30 kg, with berries weighing 6-7 g. It is semi-self-fertile, so it requires pollinators.
Gronkavaya
This early, self-sterile cherry tree is cold-hardy to -27 to -30°C. The berries are sweet and excellent for canning. Weight: up to 6 g. They travel well.
Fatezh
A domestic self-sterile mid-early variety. The tall tree produces fruit in its third year. The fruits are round, light yellow, and weigh approximately 4.5 g. Weight: 6 g. They transport well. Fruit yield: 50 kg.
Early-fruiting and self-fertile
Self-fertile varieties are self-sufficient—they don't require pollinators. They can bear fruit completely alone. Among self-fertile cherries, there are varieties that differ in frost resistance, flavor, yield, and other varietal traits.
Early-bearing varieties are those that begin bearing fruit no later than their fifth year. These varieties are chosen by the most impatient gardeners.
Large-fruited
A multiple award winner at various exhibitions, this rapidly growing tree produces fruit in its fourth year. Weight: 12-13 g. The berries are dark red, with firm, crunchy flesh and a sweet and sour flavor. The seeds are quite large and easily separated.
People's Syubarova
Suitable for the south, central, and Siberian regions. The tree is vigorous, reaching up to 6 m. The berries do not burst in hot weather. Harvest: up to 50 kg. "Narodnaya Syubarova" has one drawback: the tree does not tolerate stagnant soil moisture. Therefore, seedlings should not be planted in low-lying areas.Self-pollinating cherry varieties Although they can bear fruit without pollinators, their presence is welcome, as it has a positive effect on yield.
Red Hill
A fast-growing cherry with unusually colored fruit. Develops rapidly. The color is a mixture of yellow and red. Weight: 5-6 g. The flesh is uncolored, firm, and easily separated from the small stone. The flavor is tart. Yield: up to 45 kg per tree.
The "Red Hill" variety is not suitable for cooking. Its fruit has too soft a pulp, which immediately turns to mush during cooking.
Leningradskaya
An excellent early-ripening variety. It tolerates frosts well. Yield: up to 40 kg per tree. The fruits are almost black. The first berries appear in the third year. Once ripe, the fruits hardly fall off.
Yellow-fruited
Yellow cherries have an excellent flavor. They are often planted by gardeners who don't want to spend a lot of time caring for fruit trees. Yellow-fruited varieties are much hardier and more undemanding than red-fruited ones.
Drogana Yellow
A relatively new variety, undemanding and with stable fruiting, unaffected by weather. Weight: up to 8 g. Yield per tree: 30 kg. A plus: exceptional resistance to fungi.
Homestead yellow
An early, self-fertile variety with high frost resistance. Height: up to 5 m. Berries are oval-shaped and yellow. No subcutaneous spots. Weight: 5.5 g. Intended for table use. The berries are resistant to cracking in high humidity and transport well. They ripen before the appearance of cherry fruit flies.
Orlovskaya Amber
The fruits are amber-yellow in color, with soft flesh. They are used for desserts. A single tree produces 30-35 kg of fruit. The berries weigh up to 6 g. They ripen early. They are moderately frost-resistant, down to -20°C.
Self-sterile
To bear fruit, these varieties require pollinators. Two, or better yet, three different cherry varieties are planted in the same plot. When choosing pollinators for self-sterile varieties, keep in mind that their flowering times should be roughly the same.
Crimean
There's no precise information about the variety's origins. It's known to have been developed by Tula breeders. The tree is relatively short, reaching up to 3.5 meters. It ripens early. This variety is often grown not for its harvest, but as an effective pollinator.
The fruits are small, dark red, almost black, weighing up to 2 grams. A single tree yields 7-7.5 kg of berries. They have a distinctive, slightly tart flavor. The berries make delicious wines and compotes. The tasting score is 4.5 out of 5. Crimean cherry pits are used to grow seedlings, which gardeners use as cherry rootstocks.
Bryansk pink
A late-ripening, self-sterile variety bred about 30 years ago. Berries weigh 4 g. Berries are pinkish-yellow. Average yield, up to 20 kg.
Rechitsa
A self-sterile variety. Fruits weigh up to 5 g. The color is dark red, almost black. A tree yields no more than 23-25 kg. Plus, it has excellent flavor.
Timing and methods of planting a tree
Saplings are planted in spring or fall. In temperate climates, spring planting is preferred due to low winter temperatures. A young tree planted in spring and strengthened over the summer will survive the winter better.
The best time for planting in the middle zone:
- in spring – at the end of April;
- in autumn – from the end of September to the first half of October.
In spring, planting occurs before the buds swell. In autumn, planting time is chosen so that 20-28 days remain before the first frost.
You can plant cherry trees in the following ways:
- buy a ready-made seedling from a nursery;
- grow cuttings from the mother tree;
- plant out the shoots;
- graft onto rootstock.
Most amateur gardeners and summer residents prefer to purchase ready-made seedlings. They are planted in pre-dug holes measuring 60 x 100 cm, spaced at least 3 meters apart.
How to choose a seedling
To ensure a seedling takes root and thrives, it's important to select healthy planting material. Specialized nurseries are recommended.
Rules for selecting seedlings:
- Age – no more than two years. Older trees have a harder time taking root, lag in development, and are often susceptible to disease.
- The appearance must be flawless. Broken, rotted, or dried roots are unacceptable. The bark should also be free of any damage.
- The grafting site should be clearly visible on the trunk.
- The roots are well developed, healthy, and branched.
- It is recommended to select seedlings with a strong central conductor.
- When purchasing a seedling in a container, you need to pay attention to the color of the leaves - they should be a normal green color.
Care
To get a decent harvest year after year, it's essential to take care of your cherry orchard. Cherries require standard care and frost protection.
Watering
If precipitation is normal, water the tree three times during the season. The recommended watering rate is 5-6 buckets per mature cherry tree. Increase the watering frequency during dry weather. Avoid overwatering, as cherry tree roots are susceptible to rot in high humidity.
After watering, the tree trunks are loosened and weeded. To prevent weed growth and retain soil moisture, mulching is used. The tree trunks are sprinkled with peat, humus, straw, or other mulch.
Pollination
The need for pollinators depends on the variety. Self-sterile varieties require cross-pollination trees—cherries or sweet cherries of different varieties. To attract bees for pollination, the flowering tree is sprayed with a honey-sugar solution.
Top dressing
During the first few years of life, the tree is not fertilized. Subsequently, fertilizer is applied every spring. Add 10 kg of compost or rotted manure to each tree.
Mineral fertilizers are applied in the fall. They help trees prepare for winter and survive it safely. Fall fertilizing continues until October.
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Crown formation
The crown is shaped to ensure uniform light distribution across the branches. Fruit on all branches should receive equal amounts of heat and light. Branches should be arranged in tiers. The crown should consist of 6-8 large skeletal branches.
Principles of pruning:
- Pruning is done immediately after planting the seedling. Branches are shortened to 40-50 cm, leaving 5-6 buds.
- Formative pruning is performed in the spring, before the buds swell. It helps shape the crown and control shoot growth.
- In parallel with formative pruning, sanitary pruning is carried out – all dry, diseased, incorrectly growing and damaged branches are removed.
- In the second and all subsequent years after planting, a tiered crown is formed by cutting off the shoots of the previous year.
- At a level of 3-4 m, the main conductor is cut off, restraining its growth.
- Pruning is done before the sap begins to flow. In spring, there's less risk of pruned branches freezing. Furthermore, wounds heal faster in spring.
- If there are active buds on the skeletal branches, their pruning is not allowed.
Diseases and pests
To protect the crop from pests and diseases, trees are sprayed with fungicides and insecticides in early spring. Treatments should be carried out before and after flowering.
The most common diseases:
- Coccomycosis. Caused by a fungus. Spores overwinter under the bark, in the soil, or in gum. Small reddish spots appear on the leaves. They grow, merge, and develop into grayish thickenings. Treatment involves three fungicide treatments at five-day intervals. Sprinkle the area around the trunk with wood ash.
- Moniliosis. This is a gray mold caused by a fungus. Leaves are twisted, shoots are deformed, and there is gum on the bark. Treatment is by spraying with copper-containing preparations.
- Shot hole. The fungus attacks leaves and shoots, causing brown spots to appear. The crown is sprayed with a fungicide. All affected branches are removed, and the cut ends are disinfected.
What and when to spray:
- Before bud swelling, apply urea. Prepare the solution by diluting 500-600 g of the preparation in a bucket of water. Spray the crown and water the soil with the resulting solution to kill overwintering pests.
- Before the sap begins to flow, the trunk and crown are sprayed with 5% ferrous sulfate. This treatment helps control fungi and moss.
- When the buds open and the fruit sets, the crown is sprayed with insecticides. Askarin, Fitoverm, and Karbofos are used against pests. These products help protect the harvest from its main enemies—the cherry weevil and cherry fruit fly—as well as other pests such as aphids, mites, and various leaf-eating insects.
Preparing for winter
Mature trees, healthy, strong, and fertile, survive the winter well without any cover. It is recommended to whitewash the trunk and skeletal branches in the fall, fertilize with superphosphate, provide moisture-replenishing water, and mulch the area around the trunk with a thick layer of peat.
Young trees in central Russia are required to be covered for the winter. Artificial materials, such as spunbond, are contraindicated. Natural insulation, such as spruce branches or burlap, is recommended. These will allow the trees to breathe and prevent them from rotting.
Reviews
Galina, 56 years old
The "Iput" variety has been bearing fruit in our garden for several years now. It attracted us with the promise of sweet berries and high yields. We waited three or four years for the harvest. The first few berries were few, but later we collected two or three buckets. The cherries are large, tasty, and very beautiful. They should be picked when they're softer. The description says that "Iput" is an early variety, but in our area it lags behind its early-ripening counterparts.
Valery, 49 years old
I like Fatezh for its excellent flavor and high yield. The downside is that it's susceptible to fungal attacks. It's especially vulnerable to moniliosis, although the description says it has increased immunity to this disease. The berries are large, pinkish-yellow, and a joy to eat. It's the tastiest variety in my garden. The key is to spray it on time. If you wait, the cherry blossom fly will ruin all the fruit.
Thanks to the successful work of breeders, today there are many varieties of cherries suitable for central Russia – large and small, tall and dwarf, yellow and red. This fruit crop requires no unusual agricultural practices. The main thing is to protect the tree from frost, pests, and diseases.
The best cherry varieties for central Russia
How to care for cherries in the fall: preparing cherries for winter
How to prune a cherry tree: a pictorial guide for beginners
How and when to plant cherries in the Moscow region