How to prune viburnum in the fall for beginners: step-by-step instructions

Timely pruning of viburnum in the fall will ensure growth in the central part of the plant. Active fruiting is the result of an even distribution of nutrients. The more side shoots a gardener leaves on the viburnum, the less "juice" the central part will receive. Failure to regularly prune will reduce the yield and make the bush susceptible to diseases and pests.

Schedule of manipulations

The schedule is not a dogma, but only a recommendation. It is adjusted based on the chosen variety. Despite the many nuances, there are several general points. The first rule is to avoid thinning in the fall. In the fall, after fruiting has ceased, the planting is prepared to "go dormant." Thinning is a traumatic procedure. You can't be sure that the bush will bloom vigorously in the spring. The second rule is to avoid pruning a few days before the onset of full winter. The reason is the same as the previous one. Frosts will negatively affect the number of branches that will survive the winter.

Types of deletions

Sanitary or health-improving pruning involves removing weak and diseased branches. If frost-damaged branches are noticed on the viburnum, they may be a source of disease. Removing them is recommended. The second type is thinning. This is necessary to reduce the density of branches. Gardeners know that excessive density makes life easier for pests and diseases. As soon as one branch becomes diseased, the pest or disease will "jump" to nearby branches. The third type is formative pruning. This is used when the gardener plans to grow the berry for ornamental purposes.

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Schedule of events

Botanists have developed a schedule for caring for viburnum in the fall.

Punctuality is the key to a big harvest.

Scheme of implementation

Dense branches accumulate snow, which acts as a thermal insulator. The gardener's task is to prune the viburnum so that enough branches remain to collect snow, but without overcrowding. It is recommended to remove weak shoots that cannot physically support the snow cover.

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Practical recommendations

Before pruning viburnum in the fall, it would be a good idea for a gardener to familiarize himself with the list of recommendations from botanists:

• each dry branch is shortened strictly to the healthy part;
• if a lateral branch is broken, it is removed below the stump;
• If the cut diameter is more than 1 cm, then it is treated with garden pitch.

The cut is made parallel to the trunk, having previously retreated from it up to 5 mm.

Formation of a standard tree

A gardener should know that planting a viburnum in the garden is only half the job. Forming a standard will take more effort. Because the bush produces numerous shoots, regular and targeted removal is necessary. When pruning viburnum in the fall, many tips for beginners recommend removing shoots that grow from the root. The strongest shoots are the ones to leave, which can be identified by their perfectly straight shape.

Thematic videos provide information on the need for trunk fertilization. Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium fertilizers are preferred. The trunk area is mulched using peat compost, mixed with sawdust in a 2:1 ratio. The minimum required trunk length is 50 cm. Once this mark is reached, the standard can be created. If the viburnum tree has reached 100 cm, even small shoots must be removed. When asked whether gardeners can leave the top shoots, botanists agree. They are removed when the crown becomes excessively dense.

Decorative pruning

According to the illustrations found in garden design magazines, viburnum is used to create visual accents. The first rule is to choose an ornamental variety. This information is provided on the packaging. The second point is to follow the diagram below:

• the first pruning is carried out immediately after planting;
• in autumn, all shoots are shortened to 3 buds (above ground level);
• by summer, new shoots will form from the remaining buds;
• as soon as their length exceeds 30 cm, the tops are pinched;
• After the above manipulation, the growth of the left side of the bush is activated;
• each subsequent autumn, several of the strongest root shoots are selected and shortened by 1/3 of their length;
• If the gardener managed to correctly prune the root shoots on his own, the plant will direct all its energy towards lateral growth;
• the previous two points are repeated until a visually attractive bush is formed;
• as soon as the bush is formed, the shoots are removed;
• The gardener limits the height of the shoots himself - here everything depends on the desired parameter.

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When pruning, it is important to remember that viburnum only bears fruit on one-year-old shoots.

Tree-shaped pruning

Beginners should be aware that shaping a planted viburnum bush is more difficult than, for example, shaping other fruit trees. Initially, the seedling is given several years to grow. This time is sufficient for full rooting. In temperate climates, this process can take up to two years. The subsequent procedure is as follows:

• in the 3rd year of growth, remove all shoots except for the strongest one;
• for the next 3 years the main shoot is not touched;
• lateral branches are shortened by 30 cm;
• the upper branches are not touched - they are necessary for the formation of skeletal branches;
• as soon as the trunk has passed the 1.5 m mark, the growth point is “pinched”;
• the crown is formed from the branches of the upper tier;
• When forming the crown, avoid making it too dense;
• root shoots are removed regularly.

Rejuvenating pruning

Before rejuvenation, viburnums must be grown for at least five years. Old branches should be removed. New growth will not appear on them. Branches that are too short should be removed, as this will result in stunted growth. The more short branches, the lower the yield. Bush rejuvenation plans are as follows:

• up to 2 short branches are cut off at a time;
• leave shoots from the undergrowth for replacement;
• the procedure is repeated every 2 years;
• The emphasis is not simply on short branches, but on old and short ones.

Things are more complicated if the gardener has an old viburnum. If it has a dense top and a thick, semi-dry trunk, then pruning is done as follows. The entire bush is removed down to ground level. A new one is formed from the shoots. A similar procedure is used if a young viburnum is growing poorly. This means the soil has exhausted its nutritional resources. No further planting is necessary.

Rules for pruning different varieties of viburnum

In the garden of most summer residents there are 2 varieties - "Buldenezh" and "Ordinary Red." The latter type is pruned as described above. Differences apply to the "Buldenezh" variety:

• the manipulation is carried out so that the bush becomes multi-stemmed;
• the second mandatory condition is the bushiness;
• pruning of young shoots is carried out at 20 cm from ground level;
• summer inflorescences must be removed;
• the procedure is necessary to activate the formation of the root system;
• in summer, the upper part of the root system is removed;
• the procedure will improve branching in the coming year;
• in the second year of the plant’s existence, pruning is carried out immediately after flowering has finished;
• Excessive amount of green mass takes up a lot of nutrients.

The Buldenezh variety should not be pruned in spring. Otherwise, the yield will decrease.

Autumn pruning of viburnum is a must. It's essential for optimal growth. It should be done strictly according to schedule. A good solution is to consider the climate. Finish pruning before the onset of full-blown cold weather. Old and short branches should be removed. They won't produce shoots or fruit. Such rudiments will only rob the plant of nutrients. The second rule is to regularly thin the crown. It shouldn't be too dense, otherwise disease is inevitable.