A universal scheme for pruning apricots in autumn

The growth rate and fruiting of apricot trees directly depend on following certain care guidelines. This plant is considered a sun-loving plant, which is why it tends to form thick, branched branches. This characteristic of the stone fruit tree can hinder the development of new shoots. Therefore, every gardener should know the proper apricot pruning schedule in the fall to ensure a high-quality and abundant harvest.

Features of the procedure

There are different opinions about when to prune apricot trees—spring or fall. Experts recommend pruning even more frequently—three times a year. To form the tree's crown properly and ensure consistent fruiting, remove unwanted branches in early spring, midsummer, and late fall. It is important to understand why pruning is necessary:

• Rejuvenation. If the crown is too dense and bears fruit excessively, this leads to the tree becoming depleted and aging.
• Forming a beautiful crown. Gardeners should annually remove overly long and protruding branches to ensure the tree remains attractive and healthy.
• Minimizing the risk of new shoots breaking off. It's important to regulate the number of ovaries on branches to prevent them from breaking under the weight of the fruit.
• For sanitary purposes, dry and diseased shoots should be removed regularly.
• Increasing yield. If you don't carry out scheduled pruning, the fruits will become smaller and smaller. After a few years, the yield may drop by half.

Types of pruning

A key feature of the apricot tree is its rapid growth and the formation of numerous generative buds. Because the crown is heavily branched and the tree is annually overloaded with fruit, this can lead to disease and branch drying. This is why scheduled pruning of apricot trees is essential in the fall. Early and mid-season varieties require this procedure most.

Depending on the season chosen, the gardener can use the following types of pruning:

• Rejuvenating.
• Formative.
• Restorative.
• Regulatory.
• Sanitary.

In late autumn, experts recommend rejuvenating, regulating, and shaping pruning of apricot trees. The latter option is most suitable for young trees, as its special pattern allows for the most suitable crown shape. These prunings stimulate the active growth of new branches, so that intensive fruiting can begin with the arrival of warmer weather.

Formative pruning is best postponed until the second or third year, when the plant begins its transitional cycle (before fruiting). During this time, the gardener should only prune inward-growing branches that densely thicken the crown, preventing direct sunlight from penetrating.

Once the tree begins to bear fruit, you can begin regulating pruning. The main goal of this procedure is to maintain an optimal physiological balance between shoot growth and fruit yield.

Only mature trees with reduced new shoot growth (which typically grows a maximum of 20 cm per year) should be rejuvenated. After this procedure, you'll notice more vigorous growth of older branches and the formation of new shoots. Furthermore, the apricot tree will become more resilient to seasonal temperature fluctuations.

If a gardener notices any pests or bacterial infestations on a tree, the only way to save the plant is through sanitary pruning—complete removal of all diseased shoots. This is mandatory. treated with special compounds, which kill pests and eliminate diseases.

Fall pruning of apricots prepares the plant for frost and increases its yield next year. Removing unwanted shoots should be done comprehensively, combining all types of fall pruning. If the apricot tree survives the winter frosts well after these treatments, it will not require restorative treatment in spring.

Preparing the tools

Proper pruning of apricot trees is impossible without the proper tools. All tools must be well sharpened. To keep a pruning knife sharp, use a wet whetstone, which effectively removes sawdust. Dull pruning shears should be disassembled before use to sharpen the cutting blade. After reassembly, the tool should be tested for proper operation. The pruning shears can be adjusted using the tension nut: if the grip is too tight, loosen it; if the grip is too loose, tighten it.

For the care of an apricot tree You need to have the following tools:

• Special grafting knife.
• Secateurs.
• Sharpening stone.
• A means for sealing cuts (for example, garden pitch).
• Strong twine for supporting branches and shoots.

A proven scheme for beginners

Already in the second year of a young tree's life, the gardener should begin scheduled branch removal. Specialists a unique pruning scheme was developed, which even beginners can handle:

• A third of the total length of the branches needs to be cut off.
• The scaffold shoots that support the crown's shape should be trimmed to maintain the tree's optimal contours. Any shoots that have grown incorrectly should be removed.
• The frame fruiting branches are cut carefully; their length should be within 50-60 cm.
• Dried and diseased shoots should be completely removed. The cut areas should be treated with a special protective compound. Young shoots will grow in their place the following year.
• If the main branches contain more than 15 leaves, you can pinch off the tops to encourage the tree to grow in width rather than height.

Crown formation

To regularly harvest a high-quality apricot tree, it's important to prune excess branches properly. Autumn crown shaping aims to create optimal conditions for the tree to evenly distribute nutrients. Gardeners should monitor the growth of the apricot tree's central trunk and the placement of its main branches. Avoid excessive pruning of young shoots until the tree is fully established. Once the foliage exceeds 40 cm, it's time to shape the crown.

For fruit crops, experienced gardeners choose a sparse-tiered pruning method. The tree should have 7-10 main branches spaced 40 cm apart. Rarely, unique apricot trees with cupped or flattened crowns can be found in orchards. All branches are placed individually.

Apricot tree pruning scheme for forming a sparse-tiered crown looks like this:

• Already in the first year after planting, the trunk of the seedling should be shortened by a quarter. The tree should retain two main branches, spaced 30 cm apart. All remaining shoots are removed below the ring. After all these manipulations, the branches are shortened so that the trunk is 40 cm taller.
• The following fall, the two strongest shoots are slightly shortened. To form the second tier of branches, the central trunk needs to be extended by 40-50 cm.
• In the tree's third year, new branches on the apricot tree should be pruned at the base. The distance between branches should be increased by 15 cm.
• All shoots on the central conductor are formative. If branches exceed 60 cm in length, they are cut back by half. Short branches should be left alone. When one shoot has grown taller than the trunk, it must be left in place, and the trunk itself is removed to form a ring.
• If a gardener notices that an apricot tree has lateral branches with 10 or more leaves, but they are weak, they need to be pinched. This procedure can be repeated until they become strong and horizontal. These branches will later become part of the fruit-bearing portion of the tree's crown.

If space is limited, a flattening method can be used. As the apricot tree grows, the gardener leaves only the seven largest skeletal branches at a distance suitable for the area. The advantage of this crown is that the fruiting period will begin much earlier. It's worth noting that an old tree with a flattened shape will produce low, poor-quality harvests.

Tree care

Experienced gardeners know that apricot tree recovery after routine pruning directly depends on subsequent care. Only a comprehensive approach can protect the tree from bacterial and pest damage. After removing unnecessary branches, the gardener must perform a number of actions:

• All fresh cuts and wounds should be treated with high-quality varnish. This promotes rapid healing of damaged areas, preventing bacteria and dirt from entering. If varnish is unavailable, regular paint can be used.
• If there are larger cuts on the trunk, they can be disinfected with a copper sulfate solution. Then, apply garden varnish or paint.
• The tree's fastest recovery is observed after it has been fertilized with nitrogen or phosphorus top dressing.

Of course, novice gardeners may find pruning and subsequent care rather complex. However, if you follow all the recommendations, it won't be difficult, and the tree will delight you with abundant harvests.

Rejuvenation of an old apricot tree

If a gardener hasn't been caring for the tree properly, new shoot growth will cease within five years. However, the apricot tree has a good regenerative capacity—a single rejuvenating pruning is enough to restore branch growth. With the arrival of autumn, the gardener must adhere to two basic rules:

1. Identify the oldest branches or those that have stopped bearing fruit. Do not remove all unnecessary shoots at once. Use a sharp saw for this work.
2. Among all the various branches, you need to find the youngest ones. Any shoots growing in a chaotic pattern are cut off.

After this pruning, all the nutrients will be directed toward the development of the remaining branches and the formation of good fruit. It's worth noting that old wood should not be cut off immediately, as this could cause the death of the apricot tree.