In the autumn months, after the harvest, cherry trees and shrubs are pruned. Excess branches are removed after the sap flow has ceased and cold weather has set in.
A timely and properly performed procedure helps to fully realize the plant's potential and improve fruiting. Cherry pruning, regardless of age or species, has its own nuances.
The need for autumn pruning
To restore the health of fruit trees and shrubs, it's important to promptly remove old, diseased shoots in the fall. This procedure brings significant benefits to the plant:
- forms the tree crown correctly;
- rejuvenates the plant;
- prevents or eliminates excessive crown thickening;
- provides the potential for increased yields.
There are two methods for pruning. Thinning involves cutting off the entire length of the branch. Shortening involves cutting off only part of the shoot. Both methods are used in growing fruit crops, including cherries and plums.
When to prune
All pruning work is completed before the first frost. In cold climates, such as Siberia and the Urals, temperatures begin to drop as early as October. Therefore, pruning is completed in late September. In milder climates, this work is carried out later, in late November.
Necessary tools for work
Although pruning cherry trees in the fall isn't a difficult task, it does require attention and some effort from the gardener. To avoid damaging the cherry tree, choose high-quality tools from reputable manufacturers. For pruning, you'll need:
- Pruning shears are the main tool for this job. They are used to remove shoots from young plants or thin branches.
- A hacksaw or garden saw is used to cut down branches that are thicker than 50 mm.
- The pruning shears are used when working in hard-to-reach places on the tree crown.
Only sharply sharpened tools are suitable for this work. They require less effort from the gardener. They are safe and cause less damage to the plant. It is advisable to have non-slip rubber grips on the tool handles. To protect your hands, wear special gloves before working.
You may be interested in:Important points for autumn pruning
When thinning a cherry tree's crown, it's important to consider its type. Different approaches are used to shape tree- and bush-type cherry trees. In the former case, the length of one-year-old shoots is reduced. This encourages the plant to form lateral branches, which bear berries. In bush-type cherry trees, one-year-old shoots are not pruned, as this would cause the entire branch to dry out.
After several years of development, the growth of tree cherry trees is restricted. Further treatment involves preventing branches from intertwining and preventing shoots from growing inward or downward. For bushy varieties that tend to become dense, all large branches are removed during cultivation, thinning the plant more thoroughly.
Pruning plants of different ages
Differences in the treatment of individual cherry trees and bushes depend not only on the species or variety. Cherry tree pruning also has its own nuances depending on the yield and age of the plant. Let's examine each method in more detail.
Autumn pruning for young trees
For young trees, the gardener's primary goal during fall pruning is to properly shape the crown. These plants are rarely susceptible to disease and are less susceptible to pest damage, so removing diseased or dead branches is not necessary. Another goal of pruning is to prevent the crown from becoming too dense. In this case, it's important to leave the tree's skeletal core untouched.
The initial removal of branches for young cherries is carried out immediately after landingsIn this case, only 5 or 6 of the strongest branches are left, and the rest are cut off. To speed up wound healing, the cut areas on the tree are sealed with oil paint or garden pitch. To ensure the cherry tree's crown develops a spreading form, branches are left growing in different directions.
Pruning Features for Fruit-Bearing Plants
Unlike other fruit crops, cherries begin bearing fruit quite early. This is both a positive and a negative quality. A high yield is good for the gardener, but early fruiting exhausts the tree, causing it to age faster. Therefore, fruiting shoots are also occasionally cultivated.
Regular pruning reduces tree depletion. Even a small number of remaining branches produce a rich harvest. Berries grow larger and juicier.
You may be interested in:Remediation of old trees
The main task for beginners when cultivating older cherry trees is removing dried and diseased shoots, which prevent young branches from developing. This is essential; it helps prevent disease and prolongs the plant's life.
The best time to prune an old tree is in the spring, when the weather is warm enough and the risk of frost is minimal. At this time, the plant responds more readily to pruning. In addition to damaged shoots, branches that are downward-facing or severely curved are also removed during pruning.
Sanitation of cherry trees of various shapes
Fall pruning of cherries and sweet cherries also varies depending on the plant species. Branch removal is performed differently for tree and bush varieties.
Sanitation of felt varieties
This cherry variety is favored by gardeners for its decorative bushes, early fruiting, and lack of undergrowth that can crowd the crown. Therefore, pruning felt cherry bushes in the fall is much easier. At the same time, autumn pruning is a very important part of plant care. Felt cherry varieties have a very short lifespan, no more than 10 years, but with proper pruning, this lifespan can double.
Since felt varieties typically bear fruit on one-year-old shoots, they are left untouched during pruning. Only branches that are significantly elongated and longer than 50 cm are shortened by a third.
This cherry variety is pruned by removing all broken or diseased shoots. Rejuvenation pruning involves removing selected lateral shoots at the ring. In this case, the central part of the crown and skeletal branches are left untouched. These are first shortened and allowed to develop new lateral shoots from dormant buds. Only then is the old crown pruned.
Pruning bush cherry trees
Cultivation of the bush variety is accomplished by cutting off branches completely, without stumps. Otherwise, intense gummosis begins. This slows the plant's recovery after treatment, and unhealed wounds are easily penetrated by diseases and insects.
Branch removal is performed if the plant grows less than 20 cm per year. First, a sanitation is performed, removing broken and diseased shoots. Then, branches that do not branch out are pruned. The remaining branches are trimmed back to the first strong branch.
Pruning cherry trees
Unlike the bush variety, where berries appear on one-year-old shoots and branchlets, the tree cherry harvests only on one-year-old growth. In this case, pruning should be planned in advance. Avoid removing all shoots at once. Branch pruning should be done gradually, leaving shoots shorter than 2-3 meters.
If tree growth slows, branches that don't produce new shoots are pruned. If growth is rapid, thinning is performed. All old branches are removed for rejuvenation only when annual growth does not exceed 15 cm. Cross-growing shoots are also pruned.
You may be interested in:Care after pruning
Once all branch removal procedures are completed, any remaining debris in the tree's trunk circle is raked up and destroyed. This helps prevent the spread of harmful insects and diseases. In addition, the list of mandatory winter care and preparation activities includes:
- Fertilizing with mineral complexes or organic matter. For this purpose, fertilizers with high phosphorus and potassium content are used.
- Watering is combined with fertilization. Cherry trees are watered generously. Before this, the area around the trunk is dug up to half a spade depth.
- Disease and pest prevention is accomplished with a 5% urea solution. Spraying is performed after the first frost.
- Cherry trees don't require winter protection, as they are known for their excellent winter hardiness. During severe winters with very hard frosts, cover the area around the tree trunk with straw and then periodically add snow. This will protect the plant's root system from freezing.
Some tips
Inexperienced gardeners often make mistakes when pruning their cherry trees in the fall. However, this procedure is essential to ensure a consistently large harvest. Moreover, pruning trees in autumn promotes successful wintering of the plant.
When asked how to prune cherry trees in the fall to ensure a good harvest, experienced gardeners recommend following these tips for beginners:
- It is necessary to prune cherry trees correctly before the onset of frost.
- Unlike other fruit trees, cherry tree buds are located at the ends of branches, not along their entire length. Therefore, during pruning, they are completely removed or simply thinned out, leaving 2-3 buds on each shoot. This method maintains high yields.
- Complete rejuvenation of cherry trees can be easily done with a saw.
- The tree is pruned, trying to give all one-year-old branches a length of 30 cm. This method will prevent bare branches.
- Root shoots are removed annually, as they significantly reduce yields.
- The optimal height for a tree cherry is 3 m. Therefore, as soon as the tree reaches this point, the top is pruned.
- The crown of this plant quickly becomes overgrown. Therefore, pruning is carried out annually. Otherwise, the growth of fruiting shoots is inhibited.
- Don't remove every branch on a cherry tree. One-year-old shoots and bouquet branches are always left.
Experts still disagree on whether it's better to prune cherry trees in spring or fall. However, long-term observations have shown that autumn pruning is far more beneficial. It also helps the tree survive the winter cold better. The goal of autumn pruning isn't to completely change the appearance of the tree or bush, but to correct the crown shape and ensure proper sanitation. This is essential for improving yields and preventing various diseases.

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