Schemes and technologies for rejuvenating apple trees by pruning

Apple

Fruit trees gradually lose their ability to produce a healthy and abundant harvest. Grafted trees have a particularly short active fruiting period. Therefore, it's important to rejuvenate plantings by pruning them properly and stimulating growth. Apple trees also require this special care. Treatment technologies vary, and they should be selected based on the tree's characteristics, goals, and climate.

Objectives and results

Rejuvenating pruning can produce significant improvements in a plant's health if performed correctly. However, it's not a panacea: very old, diseased trees cannot always be restored. Therefore, it's important to understand the purpose of pruning garden plants and the potential downsides to be aware of.

The purpose of the procedure

Apple trees require rejuvenation approximately every 25-30 years if growing conditions are favorable. Some varieties enter dormancy much earlier, especially if grown in regions with unsuitable climates or on chemically poor soils. Specific pruning of existing apple trees can be performed for the following purposes:

stimulating the growth of new branches;
increasing crop yields;
getting rid of unnecessary volume of “empty” branches;
formation of a beautiful crown;
improving the taste of fruits.

Note!

Rejuvenating an old apple tree is especially important if its variety produces large, brightly colored fruits with a high sugar content. Such hybrids quickly lose their qualities.

Pros and cons

Fruit trees, when properly treated at the pruning sites, quickly form new growth points. After such pruning, apple trees form new flexible, resilient, and viable branches. These branches may not produce fruit in the first few years, but will later produce a harvest with the best flavor. Cut branches will no longer be a source of infestation for the plantings. The risk of pest infestation in the garden is also reduced, as they primarily target older, diseased trees. If the pruning pattern itself is chosen correctly, the crown will be shaped correctly. This is not only beautiful but also beneficial. There is no unnecessary shading, air circulation is free, and the fruit receives sufficient light even near the trunks.

It's important to properly and carefully rejuvenate an apple tree through pruning, as such procedures are always stressful for the tree. If the procedure isn't followed correctly or the timing isn't met, there's a high risk of infecting the tree and stunting its growth. In some periods, healing of cuts is slow, opening the way for bacteria, mold, and insects. The disadvantages of rejuvenating and formative pruning include: apple tree prunings A possible reduction in yield is noted in the first two years after treatment. This time may be required to accumulate the vital energy needed for active growth.

Basic rules

Mature trees must be treated with extreme caution. They often already have damage to the trunk or major branches. Before the active growth period, the apple tree must have time to develop a protective layer on the cut surfaces; otherwise, there is a high risk of death or infection. Therefore, to truly rejuvenate an apple tree, it is important to follow certain rules.

Inventory

The tool is selected based on the condition of the trees, their age, and the number and thickness of their branches. For a wide variety of plantings, the following will suffice:

garden saw with small teeth;
sharp pruning shears;
garden knife.

In rare cases, a chainsaw is required. Larger branches are removed with a regular hand saw or a special hacksaw. Tools with large teeth should not be used, as they leave deep nicks that will slow the "wound" in the tree down. Small shoots are best removed with pruning shears, and medium-sized branches with a knife. It is important to pre-treat all tools immediately before use.

Note!

The sharper the saw, knife, or pruning shears, the better the chances of a quick apple tree recovery. Blunt objects tear the plant tissue rather than cut it.

Deadlines

Only timely rejuvenation will be successful. Pruning can be done in either spring or fall, but it must be done after the weather warms up. Frosts make the wood brittle, making it difficult to carefully trim. The best time is considered to be mid-spring or early spring, depending on the regional climate. During this period, sap flow has not yet begun, and the risk of frost is already low. Over the summer, the tree will fully recover and will be able to survive the winter normally, as well as form new healthy branches that will produce fruit next year.

If rejuvenation was unsuccessful in the spring, you can postpone the procedure until autumn. Pruning should be done after the tree has entered dormancy, but before the first frost. It's best to wait until the leaves and fruit have completely fallen. After this pruning, special attention should be paid to treating the cuts and insulating the roots, as the tree will be more vulnerable. Autumn rejuvenation is not suitable for heat-loving hybrids or non-regional hybrids.

Proper care

Subsequent care will ensure rapid healing of cuts. The first step should be sealing the cuts with garden pitch or another disinfectant. It's best to do this immediately during treatment; afterward, it's easy to miss several entry points for bacteria and pests.

Pruning patterns and methods

Gardeners use three methods for rejuvenating fruit trees. A one-time or shock pruning is best for the youngest, strongest, and disease-free plants. It produces the fastest results, but if not followed correctly, it can destroy the entire tree. Gradual or three-year pruning is more gentle and is suitable for the most sensitive and oldest apple trees. The main drawback of gradual pruning is the lack of immediate results and the high labor costs. The third method is considered modern, but was previously known as "half-pruning." It combines both shock and gentle pruning techniques, but requires considerable skill from the gardener.

A gentle three-year scheme

The first step is removing dead and diseased branches, known as sanitary pruning. This will allow the apple tree to recuperate before more radical rejuvenation. First, remove branches that:

broken;
dried up;
have signs of frostbite;
eaten by insects;
have black spots;
directed towards the crown;
significantly deformed.

The next step is to shape the new crown to the correct shape and size. The height is shortened by 1/3, ensuring that the lower tier is not completely obscured by the upper tier. Additionally, the density is reduced on the south side, where growth will be most vigorous. It's important to support the north-facing branches, as they will bear the brunt of the load.

In the second year, it's important to remove excess branches, reducing overall weight. To do this, shorten the length by another third. Vigorous growth is trimmed back by half. It's important to prune to create a triangle. This will allow the crown to actively regenerate, while also ensuring the lower tiers receive sufficient light. It's helpful to look at photos of similar pruning examples, as they clearly show the shape. Additionally, remove shoots, including young ones. I leave one of the most regularly shaped shoots on each branch. You can also select shoots based on the direction of growth, focusing on the desired crown shape. If shoots are slightly crooked, they can be secured horizontally for the following season.

The third year is a period of preventative maintenance and final crown formation. Another half of the remaining shoots are removed, selecting the strongest. All clamps are removed. The branches are inspected again for any diseases that may have affected the apple tree in previous years. It's best to leave the skeletal parts of the tree alone if they are still alive.

Note!

By the third year, such an apple tree will produce a bountiful harvest. This is why gradual pruning is so popular.

Shock or extreme method

This rejuvenation option is suitable if the tree has suddenly stopped bearing fruit and has begun to wither and dry out. Shock treatment is also worth choosing to restore a neglected orchard to its proper condition. The weakest and most unviable apple trees will not survive this treatment, so there's no need to waste time and effort on them in the future. Extreme rejuvenation is necessary for trees where fruit mass has migrated to the outer branches. This not only leads to a decrease in yield but also threatens the complete loss of the tree.

The main goal of shock pruning is to stimulate the tree to actively grow and bear fruit. Crown shaping is not the goal here. The first stage is trunk pruning. Find the main growth shoot, measure 2 meters from the base of the tree, and prune the rest. Such radical measures will allow the plant to quickly form a large mass of young branches. Additionally, all other shoots are shortened. The crown ring should not be more than 3 meters in diameter. No other pruning is required during this first stage; only old and dead branches need to be removed. Throughout the season, remove competing shoots and reduce the amount of undergrowth.

Modern method

This pruning method is a two-stage process and requires a certain level of skill in working with fruit trees. The essence of the modern method is to alternately rejuvenate the north and south sides. The south side is started, as it bears the brunt of the fruiting load. All branches and shoots are pruned in a sector no more than 3 meters high and no more than 2 meters wide. The roots are then shortened to a length of 70 centimeters on the same side. Large cuts of the main skeletal branches are covered with black opaque plastic and uncovered after a year. The remaining pruning points are generously treated with garden pitch.

Spring and autumn patterns

If the tree is not neglected and has no obvious problems, but the fruit production has decreased and lost its original flavor, seasonal rejuvenation can be performed. The pruning schedule will depend on the time of year. In spring, it's best not to leave the main central branches alone, especially if sap flow is about to begin. It's important to remove any overly tall shoots and lateral shoots, or so-called competitors. It's important to preserve the central part of the tree, containing the strongest growth, which is likely to bear fruit this season.

Note!

After the buds have opened, you need to conduct an additional inspection, then remove everything that has frozen.

More radical rejuvenation is possible in the fall. During this period, all branches growing in the wrong direction should be removed. Any secondary growth that formed over the summer should also be pruned. One or two lateral branches should be left as the main branches for the following season.

Apple trees require special attention. They quickly develop side shoots, which not only spoil the appearance of the crown but also prevent the plant from devoting all its energy to producing a large harvest. Rejuvenation through pruning produces excellent results if the technique is followed. To do this, you need to choose the right time, choose the method, and prepare the tools. It's important to choose a pruning pattern based on the goals of the treatment and the condition of the tree.