How to properly train cucumbers in a greenhouse and in open ground

Pruning cucumbers in open ground and greenhouses depends on the variety. To properly perform the procedure, it's important to follow a specific sequence of steps and heed the advice of experienced gardeners. Pruning is performed at specific stages of the vegetable's development.

Why and when is it necessary to shape cucumbers?

Without shaping the bushes, you won't be able to grow a large harvest, as overgrown branches will interfere with proper development. As a result:

• poor air and light supply to parts of the plant, which creates favorable conditions for the life of pests and diseases;
• Pollination is impaired because it is difficult for insects to reach the flowers;
• Nutrients and all the strength of the bushes will go into feeding the branches on the side, and not into growing fruits.

To properly shape the bushes, gardeners recommend tying up the stems in a timely manner, pinching out side shoots, and adjusting the growing points. cucumbers in greenhouses Polycarbonate pruning is carried out almost immediately after planting. After five days, the shoots are tied to the vines, and after a couple of days, excess branches are removed from the sides. The best time is when four pairs of leaves appear on the stem. All shoots from the bottom should be trimmed from the sides.

Basic rules of formation

Each stage of cucumber vine formation—staking, removing side shoots and leaves, pinching—has its own unique characteristics. Before planting the plants in the ground, you need to decide on a staking method. This will significantly facilitate the formation of cucumbers in the greenhouse—you can see this in the video.

There are several types of garters:

• vertical;
• horizontal;
• combined.

The vertical method is most often used for cucumbers in polycarbonate greenhouses. In this case, vertical 2-centimeter trellises are tied perpendicularly to the top profile to the spots under the second leaves of each plant. Loops are created. As the stems grow, they are wrapped around non-slip and strong twine.

The horizontal method involves tautening a rope or wire between tall, vertically installed wooden or metal supports. The distance between them should be approximately 25-30 cm. This type of tying is convenient for use in low-rise greenhouses. However, there are situations where the tendrils cannot reach the next tier and become horizontal.

A combined method involves stretching netting between the supports and forming small groups of beds. Special netting for cucumbers is available commercially. It can be used in place of vertical supports and set up as a tent. Experience has shown that this method reduces damage to leaves and stems and allows for more light.

When tying up cucumber bushes, you must adhere to certain rules:

• the top should be free to prevent yellowing;
• The leaves are removed so that the plant does not waste energy on them;
• It is better to tie the side shoots to the main stem or place them nearby at an angle of no more than 30°-35°.
• removal is carried out in a specific way - by cutting, breaking off is strictly prohibited;
• at a distance of approximately 15-20 cm from the ground there should be no stumps, damaged, yellowed or fresh leaves;
• After the plant reaches the height of the first stretched rope, the stem is released and carefully tied to another support - this is done approximately once a week.

Side-sonning is done to speed up the onset of fruit production, as numerous female inflorescences are appearing. Lateral shoots no larger than 3-5 cm should be removed, usually along with the first leaves. Be careful with varieties whose female inflorescences appear on shoots. If removal is done carelessly, you could lose half the harvest. The main stem is pinched after it reaches the top rope. When the bush has 2-3 stems, the other shoots are also pinched. This will encourage further branching of the lateral shoots, and a new crop will begin to develop.

By following the pattern, it's easy to properly train cucumber plants in greenhouses. They will take on a pyramidal shape. This ensures that the main stem is gradually loaded, while the lower vines are well-ventilated and less susceptible to disease. Moreover, ripe cucumbers should be harvested sequentially. There's no need to wait until the entire crop is ripe.

Formation of parthenocarpic varieties

Parthenocarpic hybrid varieties (pictured) are a species that produces new fruit without pollination. This means they don't require insect fertilization. A good harvest can be achieved by adjusting the bush density and pinching the bushes. These varieties are known for their rapid growth of young shoots. It's worth noting that for hybrid varieties, the light reaching the bush is more important than the shaping. Lateral shoots are characterized by increased branching. Therefore, it's best to grow them as a single vine on a trellis—a single stem.

If you follow the step-by-step instructions, you can form an excellent bush:

• The main stem is tied to the support after about 4-5 leaves have formed.
• Once the vine reaches half a meter in height, the side shoots should be removed. If this is done later, the plant will shed the developed buds.
• Then the shoots are left in 3 tiers: shoots of half a meter - about 1.5 m from the ground, 40 cm - from one meter, up to 20 cm - from a meter.

The tops are pinched so that the lower tier has 1 fruit and several leaves, the middle tier has 2 fruits and several leaves, and the top tier has 3 fruits and several leaves.

Differences in formation in greenhouses and open ground

Properly shaping cucumbers in open ground and in a greenhouse is equally important. The process is virtually the same. The only difference is that in a greenhouse, plants grow faster and more vigorously, requiring more frequent shaping. Furthermore, in a greenhouse, seedlings root more quickly, the root system gains strength quickly, and new shoots form more readily. Therefore, shaping should begin earlier. As a result, a well-formed bush will produce more fruit.

Caring for cucumbers

Caring for cucumbers should begin in the fall. At this time, sanitize the soil and greenhouse, remove debris from the beds, and dig deep. Disinfect the soil with bleach, especially if cucumbers are being planted in the same spot for the third year in a row. Seven days before planting, fertilize the beds well with compost. Without staking, you won't be able to get a bountiful cucumber harvest in a greenhouse.

Watering

When growing these vegetables, remember that watering is measured in cubic meters. The first time, water the bare but richly fertilized soil. Subsequent waterings are applied only when the soil dries out.

It is optimal to use drip irrigation, especially for polycarbonate greenhouses.

In this case, each bush will receive the same amount of water, so there will be no problem of overwatering or drying out.

Mulching will prevent crust formation, improve aeration and maintain a constant temperature.

As a rule, peat, straw, fallen leaves, and dried chopped grass are used.

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Top dressing

During the first few weeks, newly emerged plants will benefit from the applied fertilizer. Then, they should be fed with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. During flowering, cucumbers are fertilized with phosphorus, and after fruit set, with potassium and nitrogen. Carbon dioxide is essential for good photosynthesis. It is found in fresh manure, which is placed in a large container in the greenhouse. Fertilize the crop in the evening before watering. Organic and mineral components can be used. Foliar feeding is considered very beneficial for cucumbers.

Prevention of diseases and pests

In greenhouses, cucumber plants are often attacked by diseases and pests. This is much less common in open ground. If left untreated, the plant will simply die. The main pests include:

• Melon aphids. They attack plants from midsummer. Their attacks are rapid – within a couple of days, they can infest almost the entire planting, destroying leaves, ovaries, and shoots. If aphids are spotted, the crop should be immediately treated with a tobacco and pepper infusion.
• Whitefly. This insect loves plant sap. It leaves a secretion on the leaves, which harbors sooty mold. Sticky traps are used as a preventative measure, and the plant is removed if detected.

Among the common diseases it is worth highlighting:

• Copperhead. This is a fungus that attacks fruits and leaves. Small, ulcerated spots appear on the plant's surface.
• Root rot. It attacks the root, absorbing nutrients from the soil. As a result, the entire bush dies. This disease spreads rapidly.
• Powdery mildew. This virus appears as a white coating on the leaves, causing the entire plant to die.

The appearance of diseases and parasites is provoked by:

• lack of crop rotation;
• temperature control failure;
• insufficient ventilation;
• planting density;
• depleted land;
• incorrect watering.

Reviews

Ekaterina, Smolensk:

I hadn't been taking care of the bushes before, and they had grown too large, as they couldn't shape themselves properly. As a result, insects couldn't reach the flowers properly. After proper treatment, the harvest was very good.

Daria, Vyazma:

After planting, I immediately began shaping the bushes properly, as advised by experienced people, and it bore fruit. There were plenty of cucumbers, all of them delicious, without any bitterness.

Therefore, anyone growing this crop should know how to properly train cucumbers in the open ground and greenhouse. This is one of the most effective agricultural practices, helping to achieve high yields. By removing excess branches, the plant directs its energy toward fruit production rather than growth. Before you begin, you can watch a video on training cucumbers in a greenhouse and open ground.