How to properly shape peppers in a greenhouse: formation schemes

The main goal of training pepper bushes is to develop strong shoots that produce new branches, resulting in a bountiful harvest. The growing season for sweet peppers ranges from 150 to 200 days, so in colder regions of the country, peppers are planted in greenhouses. Greenhouse pepper shaping involves pruning branches and leaves and pinching off the tops. This process occurs in stages throughout the growing season.

Why is it necessary to shape peppers in a greenhouse?

Forming sweet peppers increases the yield and improves their quality, affecting their ripening speed. Varieties and hybrids have been developed that don't require pruning or side-sonning (Florida, Topolin, Dobryak, Ilya Muromets, Zodiac, and others). However, many species do require pruning and shaping.

Advantages of growing pepper bushes in a greenhouse:

• pruning barren branches to reduce resource consumption;
• Removing shoots growing inwards from the bush helps relieve the plant;
• shaping allows vegetables to ripen evenly;
• the bushes are ventilated and better illuminated;
• produces high-quality, large-sized fruits;
• reduces the risk of infection and insect infestation;
• crop yields increase;
• neat appearance of bushes.

For low-growing varieties (30-40 cm), only diseased, weakened, or inward-growing side shoots with no fruit are removed. For medium-sized plants (up to 1 m), remove the lower stems without fruit. Tall varieties (100-200 cm) have a large green area, which can cause fungal growth. Therefore, side shoots are trimmed back, leaving 2-3 main stems. This allows the plant to receive better ventilation, improve lighting, and consume less nutrients. For tall peppers, remove some foliage and stunt the growth by pinching the tops.

When to start shaping sweet peppers

Pepper shaping involves pruning shoots and pinching foliage, a step-by-step process. The first pruning is done in seedling periodWhen the seedlings reach 20 cm in height, remove the first bud and trim off the lower branches and leaves. Remove any sterile stems.

Stages of plant formation:

• the crown bud is removed when the trunk is divided into 2 branches;
• After pruning the bud, new branches develop in the fork, select 2 strong stems, and remove the rest with pruning shears;
• pinching of the crown is done after the formation of 16-20 fruits.

Bell pepper formation diagram

Peppers are developed in stages. Flower bud removal occurs during the seedling stage. The stem has been divided into two strong shoots. A bud appears between these shoots. To ensure continued growth, this bud is removed. Failure to do so will slow the plant's development and focus on producing its first fruit. The flower is removed before flowering. If high-quality seeds are desired, the crown bud is left on both plants.

Trimming off excess shoots helps the pepper plant branch out. Several branches grow, leaving two healthy stems, and removing the tops of the remaining shoots.

Pruning foliage and non-flowering shoots helps the plant unburden itself and focus all its energy on the growth of the main shoots. Excessive foliage shades the bush, and non-fruiting branches drain the plant's nutrients. Remove dried side shoots and yellow foliage, as these may be infected with fungi.

Pinching the tops of the main stems helps stop the growth of the bushes. By this time, the peppers will have set at least 20 buds. New buds are no longer needed, and all empty branches are pruned. If the peppers continue to set buds, the buds are chopped up, and new buds are removed. This ensures that the buds grow large, sweet, and ripen on time.

Forming methods with instructions

Pruning depends on the pepper variety, the number of seedlings planted in the greenhouse, and the size of the greenhouse. Excessive pruning stresses the pepper plant, which may prevent it from bearing fruit at all. Proper pruning is essential.

Formation into one stem

The single-stem method is used if the greenhouse is small and the plants are planted close together. Pepper formation begins when several branches have grown on the main stem.

Trimming process:

1. All side branches of the peppers that branch off from the main stem are removed. The result is a smooth bush with a single shoot. This shoot already bears leaves and flowers.
2. As the plant develops, forks of new branches form on the trunk; they are carefully removed, leaving 2 leaves and 1 bud.
3. After 11-13 peppers have formed, pinch off the tops to stop the growth of the plants. All the nutrients go to the development of these vegetables, and new flowers are removed.

Forming peppers into two stems

A two-shoot pruning pattern is most often used when the bushes have 20 fruit sets. This number allows for larger fruits. Bell pepper bushes should be pruned when several stems have grown from the trunk.

How to form a bush into two shoots:

1. Remove the side branches and select two strong, healthy main stems. These will be the first row of shoots.
2. When new branches appear on the main stems, one strong stepson is left, the remaining branches are removed above one leaf and the first flower bud.
3. Continue shaping until 16-20 peppers grow on a plant. Pinching the tops of two stems helps direct all the nutrients toward fruit growth.

Pepper in three stems

When the greenhouse is spacious and the seedlings are spaced 50 cm or more apart, three shoots are left on the bushes. These plants can bear more fruit, resulting in a better harvest. Peppers planted farther apart receive adequate light, allowing the vegetables to ripen faster.

How to form peppers in a greenhouse into 3 stems:

1. On the main trunk, 3 strong shoots are selected, other branches are pinched off.
2. If only 2 shoots have grown, then the branches of the first row are not removed, waiting for the formation of a strong stepson.
3. At the forks of the second row, leave one healthy shoot, and cut off the rest. Leave the first bud and the two leaves above it.
4. The action is repeated for the 3rd and 4th rows of branches, and pruning is stopped after 23-25 ​​peppers have formed.
5. The tops of the first row of branches are pinched. This stops growth, and the resulting bush looks neat.

The process of pepper formation in a greenhouse

Three methods are used to prune pepper plants in greenhouses: removing side shoots, pinching branches, and trimming foliage. Each method must be performed according to the rules to avoid harming the plants. Future yields depend on these actions.

Pinching out stepsons

Pinching peppers involves pruning away all unnecessary side shoots, or lateral branches that grow in the leaf axils. Side shoots arise as the main stems grow and develop. Removing these shoots helps redirect energy toward the development of the plant, improving its quality.

Tips for removing side shoots from peppers:

• do the procedure in the morning, while the sun is not too hot;
• You only need to pinch out pepper shoots in a greenhouse when the bush has reached a height of 25-30 cm and the main shoots are strong enough;
• remove all small shoots on the sweet pepper bush, leaving shoots 3-4 mm long, preserving one flower bud; this pruning will protect the seedlings from diseases;
• The soil between the rows is loosened and watered.

Topping

Pepper pinching involves cutting off the top of the stem and the bud located at the end of the shoot. When the main stem divides, pinch off the branches, leaving 2-3 strong side shoots for further development and shaping of the plant.

How to pinch peppers:

• shoots grow on two stems, they branch out, the strongest of them is chosen, all the remaining ones are pinched;
• On the stepsons of the second row, branches grow, leaving one healthy stem again, the others are pinched above the flower bud;
• when the ovaries appear, leave 20-25 pieces, pinch off the growth point of all stems;
• The last procedure is done 28-30 days before the end of fruiting.

Trimming

Pruning the bushes allows for better ventilation and improves light access. Remove yellowed or unused leaves that shade the plants and rob the peppers of nutrients.

Pruning rules:

• cut off dry, damaged leaves;
• at the time of pruning, the vegetables on the shoots of the first row should be ripe;
• removal is carried out in stages, with 2-3 leaves removed in one pruning;
• when the peppers on the second stems ripen, cut off the subsequent leaves under the branches;
• At least 2 leaves are left above each ovary or fruit; they help nourish the vegetables;
• The last procedure is carried out 40 days before all fruits ripen.

Caring for plants after formation

Any pruning causes stress to plants. To speed up recovery, peppers require proper care after pruning. This should encourage the pepper to begin growing foliage and stems again.

Caring for peppers in a greenhouse after shaping:

1. Water the bushes with water at a temperature of 19-23°C (65-73°F) 1-2 times a week. If the soil dries out quickly, water more frequently. Use settled, melted, or rainwater. Water the plants in the morning or evening.
2. Pepper plants do not like direct sunlight, as the leaves may turn yellow.
3. Top dressing Apply after loosening the soil, combining the procedure with watering. Combined fertilizers are used, and superphosphate and potassium fertilizers can be added.
4. Only tall and medium-sized varieties, at least 60 cm tall, should be tied to trellises or supports. Without support, the stems will sag under the weight of the vegetables. If the plant is no more than 40-50 cm tall, no support is needed.
5. Ventilation is essential for airing greenery. Plants are less susceptible to disease, grow faster, and produce more fruit.
6. Mulching the soil around bushes helps retain moisture, provide additional nutrients, and prevent the soil from overheating. Mulch is applied after watering—peat, straw, hay, or compost, but not freshly mulched.

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Possible mistakes gardeners make

Too frequent pruning can stunt the plant's development, causing the bushes to become diseased and preventing fruit production. Removing side shoots should be done judiciously; the length of the pruned shoot should not exceed 5-6 cm. Pruning longer branches during shaping can cause stress to the plant.

Recommendations to avoid mistakes when shaping peppers:

• Stepchildren are not removed if the bushes are planted at a distance of 30 cm or more;
• the dense crown protects vegetables from overheating and drying out;
• shaping is not done in hot weather, when the temperature remains above 28-30 *C for several days;
• If the procedure is not carried out on rainy days, damaged shoots take a long time to dry out, which increases the risk of infection;
• sick and weakened plants should not be touched, they are treated, and only after recovery are side-sonning done;
• branches should not touch each other after pruning;
• all cut stems and leaves are removed from the greenhouse;
• The last pruning should be carried out no later than 40 days before the end of fruiting, otherwise the plant will not have time to recover and the vegetables will not ripen.

Proper pruning helps peppers grow and develop faster. They're less susceptible to diseases, less susceptible to pests, and yield increases. Peppercorns are larger and more flavorful after pruning. In a greenhouse, where planting space is limited, pruning will save space. To prevent peppers from becoming diseased after pruning, it's best to plant disease-resistant varieties.