How to properly graft an apple tree in the fall

Apple

Apple tree grafting is not a mandatory procedure. However, many experienced gardeners and summer residents strive to do it annually. The purposes of grafting trees vary. To ensure a positive outcome, it is recommended to first study the characteristics, methods, and timing of grafting apple trees of different varieties and ages.

Why vaccinate?

Every year, gardeners graft fruit trees in the spring or fall. The main purpose of this procedure is to identify new apple varieties and improve fruit production. But that's not all it offers. There are several other reasons to graft apple trees before the winter or summer season:

  • expanding the range of trees in the garden;
  • restoration by tying branches to the stump of a dried or diseased tree;
  • the ability to grow several varieties on one tree to save space on the plot.

There are several reasons why gardeners perform this procedure. The procedure is fairly simple, but it doesn't always produce positive results. This is due to various errors. It's important to research beforehand how and when to graft apple trees: in spring or fall.

How to graft an apple tree in the fall

Normal timing for vaccination

The first thing to consider is the timing of grafting. Gardeners' opinions are divided on this. Some believe spring is the ideal time, while others insist this beneficial procedure should be performed in the fall or winter. Regardless of the time of year, several conditions must be met for grafting:

  • the optimal air temperature is up to -15 degrees;
  • the minimum period of time before the previous frost is 1 month;
  • absence of heat;
  • absence of rain at the time of the procedure.

Adhering to the appropriate timing for favorable planting guarantees a good result. In the central part of the country, where the climate is predominantly moderate, the optimal time is mid-August to the first half of September. In some regions, such as the Moscow region, temperatures drop later, meaning grafting can be done until the first half of October.

Important!
Before tying up your apple tree, it's recommended to check the weather forecast. If frost is expected within the next three weeks, it's best to postpone this procedure until spring.

In what months can you graft an apple tree in the fall?

Gardeners argue, with good reason, that the most favorable period for grafting is a warm or cool autumn. This is because the plant will establish itself better over the winter, and the first fruits of a different variety may appear by the new summer season. However, it's important not to miss the moment. The best time is September, especially for older trees.

October and November are also favorable times for budding. However, in this case, it's important to regularly monitor the air temperature; it's important that the thermometer doesn't drop below -15°C. In October, it's recommended to graft young trees and seedlings. For the cool autumn months, the "bark" or "cleft" method is recommended.

How to graft an apple tree

Necessary tools and materials

Budding, though simple, is an important procedure. One wrong move can result in all your hard work being wasted. It can also cause serious damage to the tree, leading to its drying out and death. The first step in grafting apple trees in the fall is preparing the necessary tools and materials.

  1. A knife. It's important that it's sharp and suitable for gardening. A pair of pruning shears is an excellent choice for this purpose.
  2. Electrical tape. Unfortunately, not every gardener has it. An alternative is a strip of plastic or twine.
  3. Garden var.

First, you need to prepare the rootstock and scion used for grafting. The rootstock is a sapling or small tree to which the scion or bud is attached. The scion is the scion that needs to be grafted. Of course, you'll also need desire, some free time, and skill.

Important!
Bacteria or infection can enter the plant through open cuts. It is recommended to disinfect your hands and any tools you may need with a special solution beforehand.
How to graft an apple tree in the fall

What can be used as rootstock?

Experienced gardeners and summer residents recommend using apple tree saplings aged 2 to 3 years as rootstocks. Their distinguishing characteristic is their greater ability to adapt to new conditions. This is especially true for wild apple tree shoots, which are highly resistant. You can also grow your own rootstock by planting the seeds in open ground.

Preparing the scion

The scion that will be used for grafting onto a seedling or tree must first be cut into several pieces using a sharp knife or pruning shears. This should be done before budding, as these pieces cannot be stored for long periods. The optimal scion length is 25 to 30 cm, and the thickness is 1 to 1.3 cm. Another important requirement is that at least four healthy buds form on the scion after grafting. Rootstock and scion should only be used from healthy plants.

Methods of grafting

There are countless options for how to properly graft an apple tree in the fall. However, dozens of them are quite difficult to perform for someone without extensive knowledge. For inexperienced gardeners, there are four methods for joining several apple tree varieties: budding, copulation, cleft grafting, and bark grafting. The first is the most common, as it is effective and requires little equipment or materials.

Budding

Budding is one of the earliest methods for combining several plant varieties into a single plant. It's so simple that even a new gardener can handle it. Before beginning, disinfect your hands and the necessary tools. Preparing for budding does not require cutting the cuttings; ready-made grafting material is used for budding. The budding procedure consists of the following steps:

  1. Inspect the annual plant and find a healthy bud on it.
  2. Cut off the bud along with a small section of wood adjacent to it.
  3. Take the rootstock in your hands and make a cut on it that resembles the letter “T”.
  4. Split the tree bark slightly at the cut areas.
  5. Insert a bud under the bark so that it faces upward.
  6. Lightly straighten the corners of the bark located on the rootstock.

Perform all manipulations with the bud carefully to avoid damaging it. After completing all the steps, wrap the grafted bud tightly with electrical tape or a strip of plastic film. The effectiveness of the work can be assessed no earlier than after 2-3 weeks. A sign of successful grafting is the formation of new buds. If this occurs, the bandage can be loosened slightly.

Important!
Only those buds that are in “dormant mode” are suitable for the budding process.
budding grafting

Copulation

The copulation method for fruit trees is only possible when the scion and rootstock are similar in size. A tree or sapling is suitable for planting only if its trunk diameter is no more than 2.5 cm. This method is only effective for grafting apple trees that are less than two years old. To perform copulation, follow these steps:

  1. Take the scion in your hands and make an oblique cut, the length of which should not be more than 4 cm.
  2. Take the scion in your hands and make an identical cut on it.
  3. Close the scion tightly to the rootstock.
  4. Secure the joint with electrical tape.
  5. Treat the areas that could not be secured with electrical tape with garden pitch.

Accordingly, the simple copulation method involves joining the scion and rootstock like a puzzle, through an equally sized incision. It's worth noting that this method is completely unique. Apple trees can be grafted this way in spring, summer, or fall. In rare cases, the procedure can be performed in winter, but only after creating the appropriate temperature conditions.

How to graft an apple tree in the fall

Into the cleft

Due to the vast number of fruit tree varieties, finding scion and rootstock with identical dimensions can sometimes be challenging. Their diameters often differ significantly. Experienced gardeners use this method to grow multi-variety apple trees, as this growth increases the bark thickness and makes the tree noticeably stronger. The "split" technique involves joining the stump and the scion at a right angle. Apple trees are tied in this manner:

  1. Take the rootstock in your hands and carefully cut the branch or trunk.
  2. Clean it with a knife.
  3. Create a shallow slit along it. To prevent a crack from forming, secure the hole with a knife or a narrow screwdriver.
  4. Take the cutting for grafting in your hands.
  5. Make diagonal cuts on both sides. Each cut should be no longer than 4 cm.
  6. Insert the scion into the rootstock cleft, making sure the cuts are completely hidden.
  7. Wrap the branch with film or electrical tape.
  8. Additionally, treat the free spaces with garden pitch.

The uniqueness of the cleft grafting method lies in its ability to join several apple varieties simultaneously. This is because several scions—from one to six—can be attached to a single cleft. After a successful graft, the fruit trees will soon begin to produce apples that will be noticeably different in appearance and size.

Important
Only seedlings between 3 and 6 years old are suitable for rootstock. The trunk diameter should be between 2 and 10 cm.
into the cleft

For the bark

The "bark grafting" method is a reasonable method for grafting mature trees. There are two possible methods: grafting to a small stump or to a separate scaffold branch. The rootstock should be positioned at least 50 cm above ground level. When grafting, follow these steps:

  1. Select a skeletal branch on the tree that is located at least 50 cm above ground level.
  2. Place it in a cool, dark place and leave for 2 days.
  3. Clean the cut areas to ensure they are perfectly smooth and even.
  4. Make a small vertical cut in the bark.
  5. Use a knife to slightly widen the resulting hole.
  6. Make an identical cut on the scion.
  7. Attach it to the trunk with a cut.
  8. Secure the joints with electrical tape and garden pitch.

All four methods for grafting an apple tree are simple. A novice can handle them without difficulty, and experienced gardeners have long since mastered these familiar steps. For effective results, it's important not only to graft the tree correctly but also to care for the plant afterward.

bark grafting

Care

Caring for a tied apple tree involves regularly inspecting the joints. This should be done at least once every two weeks. If the first buds begin to appear, pay attention to their appearance. The bandage can be loosened only in the spring, when the weather thaws. This should only be done earlier if you suspect the scion and rootstock are not mating. In this case, they will need to be reattached.

Harvesting cuttings and branches

It's not always possible to prepare fresh cuttings or branches for tying. They can be prepared in advance and stored in a cool, dark place where the temperature does not exceed 3 degrees Celsius. Cut the cuttings so that they are 25 to 30 cm long and 6 to 9 cm thick. Carefully fold them, wrap them in a damp cloth, and store them in a safe place. If you plan to store them long-term, place the ends in a container filled with damp sand.

What can you graft an apple tree onto?

The perfect grafting option is apple to apple. However, this prolific plant can also be crossed with other similar crops. Experienced gardeners have identified the most successful tree combinations. Apple trees can be crossed with pears and rowans. Lemon grafting is also acceptable, but only in a greenhouse with appropriate conditions.

How to graft an apple tree in the fall

The method for grafting an apple tree in the fall depends directly on the rootstock used. Crossing fruit-bearing trees in the fall can be done on mature trees, young trees, or wild trees. A mature tree is one that is over 10 years old. Gardeners consider young trees to be saplings or recently planted trees no more than 2-3 years old.

On an aged tree

A challenge for many novice gardeners is how to graft an apple tree onto an older tree in the fall. It's important to note that this is a simple, but far from quick, process that can take 2-3 years. The graft is made onto a stump, which is pre-cut into a cup. One to five apple varieties can be attached to this cup. However, trees older than 25 years are not suitable for this purpose.

On a young tree

Another question that concerns many gardeners is how to graft an apple tree in the fall. There are two methods for grafting: onto a sapling or a small tree. Any of the four grafting methods can be used. It's important to note that young trees are not yet strong enough for this purpose, so it's not recommended to attach more than one scion to a single graft, and all steps must be performed with extreme care.

On the wild

A "wild" apple tree is a wild apple tree growing in a garden or outside. Grafting can be done using any method and at any time of year. The scion for the wild apple tree is prepared in advance: after the first frost, cut suitable branches and make scions from them, 20 to 25 cm long. Store these at 0°C (32°F), and graft them at any time.

Conclusion

Apple tree grafting is optional. However, it's the only way to achieve a large, multi-variety harvest. Proper grafting is essential for growing healthy, beautiful trees that will produce juicy fruit. And in just 2-3 years, you'll be able to enjoy a whole new harvest from your garden.

budding grafting
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