With the arrival of spring, many gardeners are tempted to graft a pear tree. In some cases, this propagation method can replace traditional seedling planting. This method can often help save a tree if it's damaged or dies. Those wanting to attempt this for the first time should watch a step-by-step video guide for beginners.
The need for vaccination
Grafting is when a bud or cutting (scion) is transferred to another tree (rootstock). This process results in the fusion of the two. If done correctly, a single fruit tree is formed. Grafting can be done on a pear tree to increase yield and resistance to insect pests and diseases. This process improves the taste and quality of the fruit. On a single tree, wild stock can be domesticated, different varieties can be grown, a new species can be developed, or a rare one can be propagated. Other uses include restoring the crown and rejuvenating an old tree. Grafting makes it possible to create standard, ornamental, and dwarf pears.
When to vaccinate
Pear trees undergo vital processes year-round, so in theory, grafting can be done whenever desired. However, the procedure doesn't always yield good results. In autumn and winter, the regeneration process is very slow, so there's little hope that the scion will take root during this period. Spring or summer are ideal for grafting. The most favorable conditions are considered to be consistent daytime temperatures above 10°C and nighttime temperatures between 0°C and 2°C. The buds should already be swollen, so the cambium layer and bark are ready for the procedure.
Grafting in spring
Pear trees can be successfully grafted in the spring. If the rules and timing are followed, the plant is guaranteed 100% survival. Grafting should begin before the sap begins to actively flow, that is, before the buds break. The procedure should be performed when there is no threat of frost and nighttime temperatures will not drop below freezing. March is considered the best time for pear grafting in southern regions, and early to mid-April in northern regions. After the spring grafting, the grafted part, thanks to the warm weather, grows and develops well.
Grafting in summer
If pear grafting was not done in the spring, the deadline was missed, or the procedure was unsuccessful, it can be repeated in the summer: in July or August. During the summer, sap flow continues, and the bark is elastic. Work begins in the evening or morning. The advantage of the summer procedure is that there is no need to prepare or store the scion, and the condition of the rootstock is clearly visible. The result will be known by the end of the season. However, it is important to keep in mind that excessively hot weather negatively affects the scion.
Vaccination in autumn
Grafting a pear tree in the fall is possible, but several factors limit its success. These include variable weather and the short window during which it can be done. Grafting onto pear trees in the fall is possible, but it should be done in early to mid-September. However, it should be noted that the damage, which is inevitable due to the somewhat slower sap flow, will take a long time to heal. Therefore, the grafted area may freeze in winter. The success rate of fall pear grafting is low.
Vaccination in winter
Pear trees can be grafted in winter, but indoors. The rootstock and scion are dormant, and the procedure is performed from December to March. Frost-resistant scions serve as scions, while one-year-old seedlings or wild pear roots can be used as rootstocks. This winter procedure helps produce a hardy variety. Improved copulation or other methods should be used, but bark grafting should not be used. After grafting, the plant should be stored in a cellar or other cool area. As soon as warm weather returns, it is planted in the ground. The chances of the scion taking root are high.
What tree is a pear grafted onto?
The rootstock for a pear graft will have to perform important functions. The root system nourishes the scion. The tree's characteristics determine:
- resistance to drought and frost;
- adaptability to climate;
- land requirements;
- viability;
- compatibility with grafted species.
When selecting a tree for grafting a pear onto, it's important to consider the tree's growing cycles; they must be aligned. Otherwise, the tree will produce little fruit or even die. If a late-ripening pear variety is grafted onto an early one, or vice versa, the tree will become diseased, bear little fruit, and freeze in cold weather.
Wilding
Grafting a pear onto a semi-cultivated pear variety or a wild pear tree often yields good results. Rootstocks can be made from varieties that are distinguished by their increased resistance to adverse external factors. These include:
- Ussuriyskaya. It's cold-resistant, and almost all other varieties thrive with it.
- Thin branch. Characterized by high productivity and frost resistance.
- Severianka. This variety is very cold-resistant.
- Seedless. Belongs to the late-ripening variety.
- Forest Beauty. The tree is undemanding and long-lived.
If you collect fallen wild pear seeds in the forest and grow your own rootstock from them, then grafted onto a wild pear, it will bear fruit for a long time and abundantly. In the fall, pick up the large fallen fruits and leave them indoors until they soften but don't rot. Remove the seeds, wash, dry, and wrap them in paper. Before the frost sets in, specifically in October, sow them in the desired location. With the arrival of spring, thin out the seedlings, weed, loosen the soil, and water. In the south, pruning is done in the first summer, in the north – the following summer. An old pear tree is renewed by grafting a young shoot onto the tree.
Rowan
https://youtu.be/z4hetFbfXEw
You can also graft pears onto red-fruited rowan, which is considered one of the best rootstocks for late-ripening varieties due to its frost resistance. This method of grafting pears onto rowan is a good one, as harvesting from its crown is very easy. The crown should be trained so that no more than a third of the branches remain. Only then will the tree receive the required amount of nutrients. Thus, when grafting a pear onto a rowan, keep in mind that a support will be needed under the new branch.
Quince
Many people prefer to graft a pear onto a quince tree. This procedure reduces the tree's height, and if a semi-dwarf or dwarf rootstock is used, it takes up less space. Even incompatible varieties can be used for quince grafting. In this case, a compatible variety is grafted onto the quince in the spring, and the following year, the grafted variety will become the basis for the desired variety in the garden. The fruit ripens earlier, and the pears taste better.
Apple
As for apple trees, the scion takes root quickly. The downside is that the wood may not fully fuse, and the shoot may break off. In addition to grafting a pear tree onto an apple tree correctly, the new shoot must be supported or tied. The result is a rare hybrid, combining branches from both trees. Grafting is performed using an improved copulation technique or a bud grafting technique. Some experts note good survival rates, but they also argue that normal development and fruiting will not occur, and the shoot will die after 2-3 years.
Other trees
Pear can be grafted onto either spike-leaved or round-leaved amelanchier. It thrives well with both. However, the hybrid's lifespan is short. Plum and cherry plum, which are similar crops, are also suitable for grafting. To ensure successful results, scion preparation must be done responsibly, following all the rules. Harvesting should begin after the first hard frosts. Of these two plants, cherry plum is the better choice. The resulting tree will be undemanding, have a compact crown, and will bear fruit earlier. Pear can be grafted onto a small, thornless shrub, such as cotoneaster. This will result in an astringent fruit. Hawthorn, which is drought-resistant, is another suitable plant. The resulting hybrid will thrive even in poor, sandy soil.
When grafting a pear branch onto an aronia tree, which is approximately 1.5 meters tall, be aware that the resulting tree's fruit will be dry and lacking in sugar. Its lifespan is short.
Preparatory activities
https://youtu.be/COhfotpbfbw
There are several methods for grafting pears. Before beginning the procedure, select the rootstock onto which the tree will be grafted. Pear cuttings are harvested in the spring and fall. In areas with harsh winters, autumn cuttings are preferred, as branches often freeze solid during the winter, making it impossible to cut anything by spring. Cuttings are taken after the leaves have fallen, before frost sets in.
For spring grafting material, use one-year-old branches growing on the south side with mature wood. It is not recommended to cut off mature shoots, which have green bark and significantly spaced buds. It will take a long time for them to produce fruit. The prepared shoots should be approximately 7 mm in diameter, 30 cm long, and have well-ripened buds. Use sharp pruning shears or a knife for cutting. The grafting material can be stored in the snow until spring. Spruce branches are laid in the bottom of a 35 cm deep hole, the cuttings are placed on top, covered with more spruce branches, and sprinkled with straw or soil. A half-meter layer of snow is added on top.
For storage, they can be placed in a cellar. Place the lower portion in damp sawdust or sand, which is used to fill the box. To prevent the material from drying out and causing mold, maintain 65-70% humidity, with a temperature of no less than 0°C and no higher than 2°C. Cuttings can also be stored in a plastic bag in the refrigerator at 2°C, wrapped in a damp cloth. In the southwestern and western regions, it is recommended to store grafting material in frozen sawdust. In the garden, spread sawdust on the north side of the site, place the cuttings on it, cover with damp sawdust, and leave in the cold for a while. Then sprinkle with dry sawdust and cover with plastic wrap.
Regardless of the method chosen, work quickly because the cambium layers begin to dry out rapidly, which negatively impacts survival. Avoid touching the cut ends, as this can introduce infection. The branches of the tree being grafted onto should be wiped with a cloth before the procedure. Gardeners consider polyvinyl chloride film to be a suitable material for protecting the graft site. It is durable, prevents moisture evaporation, and allows light to pass through. Special film that decomposes in the sun is also available.
Into the cleft
If the tree's crown is severely damaged but the rootstock is still strong, the desired pear variety is cleft-grafted. The rootstock should be larger than the diameter of the scions. If the difference between the diameters of the scions on a single rootstock is significant, it is possible to graft several scions of different varieties. The branch is cut at a right angle as close to the base as possible. Using a sharp knife, make a 4-cm-deep split in the trunk stump in the middle; if the diameter allows, two splits are possible. The split is widened, using a wedge. The lower part of the scion is cut into a wedge and inserted into the split. The goal is to align the cambial layers, then remove the wedge. Firmly pinch the shoot into the split. Wrap the graft site with tape, trim the scion, leaving three buds, and treat the cut with garden putty. Cover the top with a plastic bag to create greenhouse conditions.
Kidney
A bud can be used for grafting a pear. This method, using a bud as the scion, is called budding. Budding is performed with either a budding bud or a dormant bud. The latter method is performed from mid-July to August, or towards the end of summer in the south. Budding with a budding bud is done in the spring. A bud with a shield approximately 3 cm long is cut from a branch. Using a sharp knife, cut the bark in a T-shape on the rootstock, fold back the edges, and insert the prepared bud. This area is coated with garden pitch. The bark is secured with tape.
For the bark
When grafting a pear tree behind the bark, the rootstock wood is not damaged. This method is used on large branches, which can accommodate up to four scions. The branch is pruned, and a vertical 4-5 cm long bark cut is made, capturing the cambium layer. The number of cuts equals the number of scions. They should be evenly distributed along the trunk. A 4 cm diagonal cut should be made at the end of the scions, stepping them out. Insert the scions behind the bark, carefully bending them back, aligning the cambium layers, securing them firmly, and treating the cut areas with garden putty. A plastic bag is placed over the scion and secured. This will protect it from wind and retain moisture. After 14 days, the bag is removed. If the graft is successful, the buds should swell during this time.
T-shaped and butt budding
The step-by-step procedure for grafting a pear tree in the summer, specifically in July, using slit budding, is as follows. First, remove shoots 10 cm from the rootstock's rootstock rootstock. Wipe the trunk thoroughly. Make a 3 cm long cut in the bark on the north side. It should be shaped like a "T." Spread the sides and insert the prepared bud. Wrap it in plastic wrap, but leave the bud exposed.
Any pear variety can be grafted using the budding method. During budding, a section of the rootstock bark is cut off, the same size as the prepared bud. A bud is placed on this area. The cambium layers should be tightly aligned. Secure with adhesive tape, leaving the bud exposed. The procedure will be successful if the bud opens and begins to develop after two weeks. If the bud turns black and dries out, the grafting has failed.
Copulation
In the spring, pear trees are often grafted using a simple copulation. For the procedure to be successful, the rootstock and scion must be the same size. They must not be moved during copulation. The lower part of the scion is cut at an acute angle, while the upper part is cut at an acute angle on the rootstock. The length of the cuts should be three times the diameter of the scions. The grafted sites are aligned to ensure maximum overlap of the cambium layers. The grafted sites are secured with tape.
There's an improved copulation technique. This pear graft is performed in the fall, not before November. It's important to prevent the buds from opening before the cold weather sets in, otherwise they'll freeze. The pruning is done as with simple copulation. The cuts are somewhat more complex, with anchor points added. From the edge located at the top of the cut, approximately a third of the way down, a 1-1.2 cm cut is made into the branch. The prepared scion is inserted into the rootstock, with the anchor points overlapping each other. Secure with tape. The scion should be cut above the third bud, and the cuts treated with garden pitch.
Ablation
This method is rarely used by gardeners; it's completely ineffective for mature trees. It involves gradually merging two shoots growing close together into a single sapling. The bark is removed from the areas where the shoots will touch, then they are brought together and secured with tape. The merging process will take 2-3 months, after which the tape is removed.
Vaccination rules
All work must be performed with special, sharp tools. Pruning shears, grafting and budding knives, hacksaws, and axes must be disinfected beforehand. A 1% hydrogen peroxide solution, alcohol, or 1% copper sulfate solution are all suitable. The cut should be made immediately before grafting. The time from the cut to the joining of the scion and rootstock should be less than 1 minute. For grafting, use a garden sealant containing only natural ingredients. This can include pine resin, beeswax, or lanolin. Avoid direct sunlight on the graft during the first year to ensure better establishment.
Grafting offers gardeners the opportunity to solve many problems and challenges. This work can be performed not only by specialists but also by those with no experience. Successful survival can only be achieved by properly preparing the grafting material and following all the recommendations of experienced gardeners.
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