Grafting apple trees and other fruit trees is one method of propagation. The process involves attaching a scion (rootstock) from another tree to an apple tree, called the rootstock or mother tree. Spring is the best time to graft an apple tree. Beginner gardeners can perform the grafting process using this step-by-step guide.
Why are apple trees grafted?
Grafting is a breeding method that allows one to obtain several apple tree varieties from a single seedling and improve the health of an older tree. Grafting increases yield. For example, if a wild tree grows in the area and produces poor, sour fruit, grafting will increase the fruit yield. The flavor of the fruit will change depending on the apple tree variety from which the cutting was taken.
This procedure can be used to change the tree's crown. If you have a tall apple tree in your garden, you can graft cuttings onto branches located in the lower, central part of the tree, making it more squat and easier to harvest. If space is limited for planting several apple varieties, grafting can be used to produce several varieties of apples on a single tree.
When grafting, you can select scions with a different fruit ripening time, allowing you to harvest fruit from early spring to late fall. Grafting increases the seedlings' resistance to diseases, boosting their immunity. It also improves their tolerance to climatic conditions if the apple tree variety is not suitable for growing in regions with harsh or excessively hot climates.
Grafting is used to restore a tree if, for some reason, it has been cut down. If the root system is viable, cuttings can be grafted onto the stump in the spring. Within a month, they will begin to grow, forming a new crown for the fallen apple tree. If the tree's bark has been severely damaged by disease or rodents, the tree can be restored by grafting, creating a "bridge" from the cuttings to allow nutrients and water to flow to the branches, bypassing the damaged area of the trunk.
Preparing apple tree cuttings for grafting in spring
The material for grafting is taken from healthy seedlings that are at least one year old and show no signs of disease or damage. Cuttings can be collected twice a year—in the fall and winter. In the fall, they are cut before the leaves fall and before frost sets in. The cut material is in a "dormant" state; sap flow is activated by spring grafting. The second harvesting period is in late winter, after severe frosts have passed. Only pome fruit trees, such as apple trees, are pruned for grafting in the fall and winter. For stone fruit trees, the scion is prepared only in the fall. Pruning instructions:
- the scion is cut from a seedling aged from 1 to 10 years;
- the material is taken from the sunny side of the tree from the middle of the crown;
- the branch for cutting should not have any damage, bends, poorly developed or deformed buds;
- the length of the cut material is about 30 cm, the thickness is not less than 6 mm;
- the cutting is cut at an oblique angle;
- The branch selected for cutting must have at least 3 fully formed buds.
The upper part of the cutting should have an oblique cut, the shape of the lower cut depends on the grafting method; it can be figured, sharp, or oblique.
Selection of rootstock, scion
The choice of scion and rootstock plays a significant role in the fusion of seedlings. Recommendations for selection:
- To change the crown and growth of an apple tree, it is recommended to use trees no older than 3 years;
- the scion and rootstock must be adapted to climatic conditions, otherwise the material may not take root;
- It is better to take the scion from an apple tree that has borne fruit for at least 2 seasons;
- The rootstock and scion must not have any damage or deformation of the trunk.
The success of the procedure is also affected by the relatedness of the varieties. The closer the variety, the higher the chance of grafting. This requirement is not mandatory, but if you have a single scion from a valuable apple variety, it is worth considering. Apple trees can be grafted onto different trees, but the best survival rates are observed when combining seedlings of the same species.
When to graft apple trees
The procedure can be performed at any time of year. The exact timing of grafting depends on climate conditions and the apple tree's growing season. Spring is the best time to graft seedlings, as this is when scion survival is highest.
Spring
Early spring marks the first period of active sap flow. The amount of nutrients in the trunk increases, as they are necessary for the formation of buds and leaves. The seedlings' immunity improves, reducing the risk of diseases due to damage to the apple tree. Cuttings should be taken in the spring from apple trees older than three years. It is best to harvest the scion in the morning or evening.
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The timing of spring grafting of apple trees depends on the length of winter. If daytime temperatures reach +10°C, you can begin preparing the grafting material. Budding the tree, or attaching a bud rather than a scion, begins in late April or early May, as warm weather is necessary for the graft to take root. According to experienced gardeners, the best time to attach the rootstock is determined by the lunar calendar, which is when the moon is waxing.
Summer
Experienced gardeners believe that summer is not the best time for grafting a scion, as it takes root less easily and can cause significant damage to the tree. However, if grafting fails in the spring, it can be done in the summer, as long as timing is correct. The most favorable time is considered to be when the fruit begins to ripen or apical buds are forming. In summer, the bark of young trees peels off easily, making it easier to attach the scion to the bark. Apple tree grafting with scions is most often done in August.
Autumn
In autumn, sap flow in the tree trunk and branches slows, which is a disadvantage. Slower sap flow weakens the tree's immunity, and cuttings have difficulty taking root and growing. During this time, seedlings are grafted due to unavoidable circumstances, such as when a highly valuable apple variety has been developed, but preserving the cuttings until the following season is not possible. Until mid-autumn, scions can be grafted onto an apple tree using the bark or cleft grafting method. Apple tree budding is permitted from September onward. Air temperatures should not fall below -15°C. In October, scions can be attached using the cleft, bark, or butt grafting method.
Winter
Winter vaccination Apple grafting is carried out only indoors, which is why it's also called tabletop grafting. This procedure is performed in winter if a prepared hybrid seedling is needed for planting in early spring. Cuttings are attached from January to March. The key is to time the planting in open ground correctly—the seedling is planted no earlier than 15 days after grafting. The survival rate of the grafted material depends on its preparation. For the winter procedure, the scion must be harvested before frost sets in and the ground freezes.
Storage of scion
The material is tied into bundles and labeled to avoid confusion if it was collected from different apple varieties. A reserve of scion is always prepared in case some is lost during storage. The cuttings can be stored outdoors in the ground. To do this, dig a trench about 30 cm deep. Spruce branches are placed at the bottom, the scion is placed on top, covered with spruce branches, and covered with soil or dry sawdust. After snowfall, the soil is covered with additional snow.
Another option for storing scions outdoors is in sawdust. Spread a layer of dry sawdust on the soil, place the cuttings on top, and cover with a layer of wet sawdust. After the first frost, the top layer will freeze, after which another 25-30 cm layer of dry sawdust is added. Cover the top with a plastic bag. The easiest way to preserve the scion is to refrigerate it. To do this, wrap it in a damp cloth, place it in a plastic bag, and place it on the middle shelf, but not in the freezer.
Grafting material can be stored in a cellar in pots or boxes. Line the containers with perforated plastic bags and fill halfway with dry sawdust or sand. Insert the cuttings, cut side down, and sprinkle with damp sawdust or sand. To prevent mold, maintain proper temperature and humidity. Maintain a temperature of 0° to 1°C and a humidity of 60% to 70%.
Vaccination methods and step-by-step instructions
High survival rates are observed with budding, cleft grafting, and copulation. Other methods include bark grafting, bridge grafting, and semi-cleft grafting. You can see how to properly graft an apple tree in the photos and videos in the article.
Budding
For fusion, buds cut from a prepared scion are used. Apple trees can be grafted using budding in both spring and fall. The timing of spring grafting depends on the choice of bud: dormant or germinating. In regions with relatively warm winters, budding with germinating buds is performed in early spring, when the first leaves appear on the seedlings. Dormant budding begins in midsummer.
Select a strong, undamaged branch from the mother tree, at least 20 cm above the ground, preferably in the center of the crown. Using a sharp pruning knife, make several T-shaped cuts in the bark, each several centimeters long (depending on the thickness of the cutting), and then peel back the bark. Remove a bud from the prepared cutting, leaving a base or base of bark. Press the bud firmly against the exposed area on the rootstock and wrap it in plastic.
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After 1.5-2 weeks, you can check the effectiveness of the procedure. If the graft has taken, the bud will cling firmly to the branch when lightly touched. If it hasn't taken, it will fall off. If the bud is firmly attached but has darkened, this indicates it is drying out and the grafting should be repeated. The damaged bud is removed from the rootstock, and the damaged area is sealed with garden pitch.
The bark method
Suitable for seedlings over 3 years old, this method is used to increase apple tree yield. The technique is simple, but precision is required. This method is best used in spring, as the bark separates easily from the branch fibers at this time. Up to four scions can be attached in a single procedure.
A branch on the rootstock is selected at a height of 1-1.5 meters from the ground. Using a garden knife, cut the bark, making a 5-cm cut. The bark is pulled apart, the scion is recut at an angle, and this cut is inserted behind the bark. The grafting site is wrapped in plastic. Experienced gardeners recommend practicing on spare branches before joining the scion and rootstock using the bark method, as the success of the procedure depends on the speed of the action.
The incision method
The principle is similar to copulation. To attach the apple tree to the incision, you'll need a grafting knife sharpened on one side. A healthy, straight branch is selected from the scion, and the grafting site is chosen 20-25 cm from its junction with the trunk. A new, diagonal cut is made on the scion. The branch on the apple tree is slightly tilted, and a cut is made about 5-6 mm deep. The scion is inserted into the incision on the parent tree, cutting at an angle. The junction is treated with garden pitch and wrapped in plastic.
Into the cleft
A simple method for spring grafting of apple trees for beginners. In this method, it's important to consider the diameter of the scion and rootstock; the mother branch should not exceed 0.5 cm in thickness. The thicker the branch, the higher the risk of scion rot. Select a strong, sturdy, straight, and undamaged branch from the rootstock and cut it back by 1/3. Using a small axe, make splits (split the branch in half) to a depth of about 6 cm. The length of the cut on the scion should correspond to the depth of the split.
The scion can be cut at an angle on one side or at a wedge. The latter method improves the survival rate of the scion, as it is in contact with the inner layer of the apple tree wood on both sides. To prevent the edges of the cut from converging, a spacer is inserted into the cut. After the scion is installed, it is removed, and the edges of the cut are closed, pressing the scion cuts firmly together. The grafting site is treated with garden pitch and wrapped with electrical tape.
Grafting into a stump
This method can be used to graft an apple tree onto an old tree in the spring if the tree has died for some reason. The cleft grafting method can restore the tree and its crown if the root system is viable. The parent tree is cut down, leaving a stump in which horizontal cuts approximately 5 cm long are made. The cut on the scion is renewed and deepened into the cracks in the stump. If the trunk diameter is 2-3 times greater than the scion diameter, up to 6 scions can be used simultaneously. The contact point is treated with a special putty and wrapped in polyethylene. After the scion has taken root, the covering material is removed.
Root grafting
If there's no suitable place on the rootstock to attach the scion, it can be grafted onto the roots of a seedling, provided they are located almost at the soil surface. A cut is made at a distance of 40-50 cm from the parent tree, washed with plain water, wiped, and the top layer scraped off. The scion is cleaned, attached to the root, and wrapped with electrical tape. To prevent breakage, the scion is tied to a stake. If the scion takes root, buds will begin to grow. After a year, the young tree can be transplanted to its permanent location.
Bridge grafting
This method isn't used to create a new variety; it's used to restore a damaged tree. Sapling damage can occur due to sunburn or severe frost. It's also suitable if rodents have damaged the apple tree's bark. Damage to the trunk of the sapling disrupts sap flow, so a bridge graft is used to restore it. The procedure is considered complex, making it difficult for novice gardeners.
The engraftment period depends on climate conditions. The rootstock's readiness can be determined by the bark; if it separates easily from the trunk, the scions can be attached. They should be 10 cm longer than the damaged area and about 5 mm thick. On the apple tree, the damaged area is cleaned and wiped with a damp cloth. The bark edges are trimmed with a sharp knife, being careful not to damage the wood.
The number of scions required depends on the extent of the damage and can range from 2 to 10. Buds are removed from the scion, and diagonal cuts are made at the edges. T-shaped cuts are made on the parent tree above and below the damage, and the bark is peeled back. The edges of the scions are inserted into the prepared cuts: one edge above the damage, the other below. This creates a bridge across the damaged area. The fusion is sealed with garden pitch and secured with electrical tape.
How to care for a grafted seedling
After 1.5-2 weeks, you can assess the initial results and check whether the cutting has taken root. If it has darkened or is easily separated from the parent tree, it has not taken root. The cutting is removed, and the damaged area is again treated with garden pitch. If the cutting has grown and the buds have swollen, the protective film can be removed to prevent it from inhibiting the growth of the new branch.
The film should not be removed until signs of growth appear, as pathogens may enter the fusion site, disrupting the growth of the cutting or causing its death. Subsequently, the seedling should be watered, sprayed in the fall and spring to combat the most common pests and diseases, and fertilized. Lateral shoots from the grafted branch should be pruned to prevent them from siphoning nutrients and water.
Grafting fruit trees is a way to increase yield and improve apple tree resistance to diseases and climate change. This procedure can also rejuvenate the crown and save a dying apple tree. There are many methods for grafting, ranging from simple techniques suitable for beginners to more complex ones.
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