How to cover and prepare an apple tree for winter in the Urals

In winter, apple trees develop very slowly, but their growth doesn't stop completely. Therefore, fruit trees growing in harsh climates require shelter to protect them from frost. Mandatory pre-winter measures for preparing apple trees for winter in the Urals include pruning, fertilizing, whitewashing, and insulating the trunks. Properly prepared trees successfully tolerate low temperatures and produce a good harvest the following year.

Climate features

The Ural Mountains stretch from north to south, extending over a vast area. Consequently, the climate in this region varies greatly. In the north, in the subpolar and polar zones, winters are very cold, with frequent winds. Cold summers here last no more than one to two months.

In the central Ural region, the climates of the western and eastern parts differ greatly. In the east, they are milder, with snowy winters and moderate frosts. In the west, the climate changes more dramatically. Summers are dry and hot, while winters can be severely frosty. In the mountainous regions, unpredictable weather prevails. In the south, spring and summer are very windy. Winters here see heavy snowfall, and temperatures can drop to -55°C.

Not all fruit trees thrive in such a harsh climate. To prevent the plants from freezing during the freezing winter, they require insulation. Without proper shelter, they fail to bear fruit and suffer from diseases and insect pests.

Apple trees suitable for harsh climates

Severe frosts are rare in the Ural region. But even with severe frost damage, trees adapted to the local climate manage to recover and produce a good harvest. For this purpose, apple trees grown in the Urals are grown in specialized regions.

Ranetki

This variety was created by crossing the Siberian berry apple and the Kitayka apple. Instead of the latter, European varieties were used for some hybrids. The apples of the Ranetki are small, typically weighing no more than 15 g. They are used for processing. The Siberian apple imparts high frost resistance to the Ranetki. Some varieties successfully withstand temperatures down to -50°C. For additional protection, these apple trees are grown as low bushes.

The best varieties of wild apples:

1. The "Dolgo" variety produces small, egg-shaped, bright red fruits. It was developed by American breeders, but is based on the wild Siberian apple tree. These apples have a slightly tart flavor with a wine-like hue. The crown of this small tree is wide. The yield of this plant reaches 25 kg.
2. The Sibiryachka variety has a compact crown and excellent winter hardiness. Its yellow fruits, with a sweet and sour taste, weigh up to 18 g. The harvest, which ripens in August, is usually used for juice production.

Semi-cultured

This type of apple tree, like the wild apple, is grown as a small bush. Its fruits are larger. However, compared to the wild apple, they are not as winter-hardy. The best varieties include:

1. "Silver Hoof" is a variety with a short ripening period and high winter hardiness. Its fruits are unusually large and tasty, reaching 100 g in weight. They have creamy-orange skin with a rosy tint. After planting, the plant produces its first harvest within three years.
2. The "Dachnoe" variety also produces large fruits, but they ripen in the fall rather than the summer. The fruits have a soft yellow skin with a small blush spot. The plant is resistant to many diseases.

Natural slates

This form was artificially created. The plants exhibit normal winter hardiness, but their crowns lie flat against the ground. When grafted, these fruit trees reach a height of no more than 2.7 m. They produce large fruits, weighing up to 500 g. Despite their small crowns, the yield of creeping varieties is high. They can withstand temperatures as low as -410°C. The best varieties of this type are:

• Down to earth;
• Sayanets of dawn;
• Brotherchud;
• Wonderful;
• Carpet.

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Why hasn't the apple tree shed its leaves and what should I do?
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Preparing apple trees for winter

To prepare an apple orchard for winter in the Urals, work begins as early as September. At this time, the remaining apples are removed from the branches. The trees are finally insulated when cold weather sets in. The timing depends on the climate zone. Insulation of young saplings begins after the average daily temperature reaches -9°C. Protecting them too early is harmful to fruit crops, as is covering them too late.

Trimming

Before covering an apple tree for the winter in the Urals and other regions, perform crown pruningWork begins when the leaves fall. Branch pruning is completed before the air temperature drops to -4°C. In freezing temperatures, wood becomes brittle. Attempts to prune branches leave jagged edges and cuts that take a long time to heal. This weakens the fruit tree's immune system. Normal healing of the damage requires at least 15 days.

When pruning, damaged, infected, and dried branches, as well as shoots that thicken the crown, are removed first. Then, the crown is shaped. Cuts and saw cuts are made as smooth as possible, avoiding jagged edges. Thick branches are first sawed off at the top and bottom. Once the branch is removed, the cut is smoothed. All exposed areas are sealed with oil paint or covered with garden pitch.

Top dressing

To successfully prepare apple trees for winter, in the Urals or Siberia it is essential apply fertilizers In the trunk circle. Timely fertilization accelerates the maturation of young growth. For this purpose, potassium-phosphorus preparations are added to the soil in granular or liquid form to inhibit branch growth.

For fertilizing, use the following substances per 1 m² of the tree trunk circle area:

• 5 kg of compost or humus;
• 100 g potassium sulfate;
• 100 g superphosphate.

Dry fertilizers are added simultaneously with digging the tree trunk area. Liquid solutions are applied to the soil. Nitrogen-containing fertilizers should not be used in the autumn months, as they slow down wood maturation and reduce frost resistance.

Treatment against pests and infections

Inexperienced gardeners don't always clear the tree trunk area of ​​fallen leaves and small shoots left over from pruning, using the debris to protect the root system from frost. However, plant debris serves as a refuge and breeding ground for insect pests and fungal infections, which can infect a healthy tree. Therefore, before covering apple trees for the winter in the Urals and other parts of the country, the tree trunk area is always cleared. All accumulated debris is collected, removed from the garden, and burned.

For additional protection, the soil around the tree trunk is dug over and treated with a copper sulfate solution. The crown is then sprayed with insecticides to kill insects, such as "Aktara" or "Karbofos." To prevent powdery mildew or scab, use a solution of 10 liters of water and 5 g of urea or "Horus" according to the instructions. If these products are not available, prepare a solution of 10 liters of water, 50 g of soap shavings, and 400 g of soda ash.

Whitewash

Before the onset of winter frosts, fruit trees must be whitewashed. Choose a dry day to ensure the whitewash doesn't wash away in the rain. The trunks of young apple trees are coated with a protective layer of lime without any preparation. Older trees are first cleared of dead bark, lichen, and moss.

The trunks are whitewashed with chalk or lime solution, which is prepared from:

• 10 liters of water;
• 3 kg of crushed chalk or lime;
• 200 g PVA glue;
• 500 g of copper sulfate.

The prepared solution is applied to the trunk and lower portions of the skeletal branches. This layer of whitewash is necessary to protect against parasites, hares, mice, and other rodents. It also protects the plant from the bright sun in spring and winter, and from frost damage to the shoots.

Insulation of trunks and roots

To insulate mature apple trees, cover the area around the tree trunk with peat, dry humus, or pine branches after preliminary digging. If additional insulation is needed, wrap the trunk with spruce branches or a special net. Once snow cover has settled, build a snowdrift at least 50 cm deep around the tree. This snowdrift is replenished regularly throughout the winter.

Columnar apple varieties are particularly susceptible to freezing. Damage to a single growing point results in the death of such plants. Therefore, they require more substantial cover. The trunk circle is covered with plant mulch or agrofibre. A frame of plywood or wooden planks is installed around the crown. The space inside is filled with pine needles. A tarpaulin or perforated film is stretched over the top to prevent condensation. With the arrival of spring, the cover is removed in sections.

Preparing young apple trees for winter

First-year seedlings are tied to a stake to protect them from gusts of wind. After digging around the tree trunk, it is covered with a layer of plant mulch. A wooden frame is installed over the seedling. Spunbond or perforated film is stretched over it. When snow falls, an additional snowdrift is piled on top. Throughout the winter, the height is maintained at 50 cm from the ground. In the spring, the covering is removed gradually, layer by layer.

For apple trees aged one to two years, after digging around the trunk, apply a 10-cm-thick layer of mulch. For colder regions, this layer is increased to 20 cm. To protect the trunks from frost and rodents, wrap them in special paper, burlap, reeds, or spruce branches. The selected material is tied tightly with rope or tape. After the snow cover has settled, a high snowdrift is piled around the trunk. With the arrival of spring, the protective structure is removed and the mulch is renewed.

Successful wintering of fruit trees in the Urals requires special preparation. Apple trees must be pruned, fertilized with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers, and their trunks must be whitewashed and covered. This insulation ensures the apple tree remains healthy and produces a bountiful harvest the following year.