Houseplants help create a cozy atmosphere in a room. However, many people avoid them, citing their busy schedules. Less experienced gardeners suggest cacti as an alternative, as they're easy to care for. at homedoes not present any great difficulties.
The unpretentiousness of cacti is a big stereotype, but it's far from true. The natural life-sustaining capacity of these plants is not endless, as many might think.
Characteristics of cacti
Today, there are approximately 300 known species and varieties of this plant. What makes cacti unique is that not all of them look the same. For example, members of the Pereskiaceae subfamily have familiar leaves and stems. Opuntiaceae (Opuntiaceae) have foliage only on young shoots, while Cereus (Cereus spp.) are cacti as we are accustomed to seeing them, complete with spines.
Experts also point out the following features:
- The stem of this plant is responsible for photosynthesis, and the entire process of active carbon dioxide and oxygen release occurs at night;
- As you can see in the photo, cacti are distinguished not only by their names but also by their spines. They can be hair-like, bristly, needle-shaped, awl-shaped, or club-shaped.
Unlike many houseplants, cacti produce berries ranging in size from 2 millimeters to 2 cm. Inside each berry are two to three or even hundreds of seeds.
Cacti are most often kept at home for decorative purposes. This means they should not be used as food.
Important points in growing cacti
Cacti are considered by many to be relatively easy to grow. The main reason for this is the natural conditions in which these plants thrive. Their ease of maintenance, however, requires certain knowledge from the grower. Specifically, cacti have a dormant period and an active growth stage, which influences watering, supplemental lighting, and temperature adjustments.
Good lighting
In the wild, cacti grow in regions with plenty of sunshine. Accordingly, similar conditions must be created when growing them indoors. If the light is insufficient, the plant will not thrive, and the stem will become deformed and appear stunted.
Most cacti grown indoors thrive in winter. Providing adequate natural light during this time of year is impossible. To prevent plant deformation and death, experienced growers recommend selecting lighting fixtures. These should be used with the onset of autumn, as soon as daylight hours begin to decrease.
Sodium or halogen lamps are suitable for caring for cacti indoors. A power rating of 300 to 500 watts is sufficient. Ideally, the lamps should have a reflective housing to concentrate the light on the plant.
In the center of the light spot there are ideal conditions for small plants, young ones, and at its edges – taller cacti.
Air humidity
To ensure consistent and proper flowering at home, cacti care requires maintaining optimal humidity. Experienced growers recommend keeping it low. During the growing season, cacti can be placed outdoors, especially in humid weather. To prevent disease, pre-treat the plant with a fungicide solution.
When and how to water
Caring for cacti at home requires knowledge of how to properly water the plant. The exact amount of water is determined by the following factors:
- variety;
- conditions of detention.
Those specimens that are kept in a room with low humidity and, at the same time, high temperature require abundant watering. Howwater correctlyshown in the photo.
In summer, it's recommended to water cacti daily, exclusively in the morning. This will allow the plant to fully absorb the water and prevent the risk of disease. If the plant is grown in a small pot, mist at least once every two days.
There are rules to follow when determining watering times:
- The first watering with the onset of spring is done as soon as young thorns and areas of fresh skin appear on the plant.
- From the first days of September, watering is significantly reduced.
Most cacti enter a dormant period between November and March. Therefore, the soil should be moistened no more than once a month, and only in small amounts.
- Water consumption in cacti decreases during illness.
- When growing cacti in a greenhouse, it's important to monitor the temperature. If the thermometer reads below 10°C, stop watering.
A sign of excess moisture is the appearance of vertical cracks on the stem surface. Cacti naturally have the ability to store water, but this capacity is limited.
You may be interested in:Do cacti need to be fed?
Scientists and growers disagree on whether cacti should be fertilized. Some are convinced that succulents, which were grown using fertilizers, are significantly inferior in their characteristics to those that were not given fertilizers.
Others argue that plants are naturally supplied with the necessary nutrients, sufficient for the entire growing season. Therefore, additional feeding is not required. Experience shows that the truth lies somewhere in the middle.
There are rules for correct feeding:
- Fertilizers are not applied during the period when the plant is preparing or has already entered a state of winter dormancy.
- It's not advisable to feed cacti that are in an unexplained state. The root system is so damaged that nutrients are not being fully absorbed.
- You cannot use fertilizer immediately after transplanting or during the rooting period.
- Avoid applying fertilizer too frequently, as this can lead to soil rot and pest infestations.
- Only cacti planted in acidic soil should be fertilized. Adding too much lime can stunt plant growth.
The first fertilizer application after the winter dormancy period ends should be done in early spring. This helps to increase the root system's vigor. Sodium humate, humic acids, and potassium salts are the most effective. It is recommended to apply the fertilizer in the evening or on a cloudy day to avoid burning.
Organic fertilizers are best for rhipsalis and epiphyllums. These cacti are recommended to be watered once every seven days with an ammonium nitrate solution. The ratio is 1 g of the substance per 1 liter of water.
You may be interested in:Choosing a pot
The size of the planting container is important. Cacti are most often sold in small pots, so it's recommended to repot them immediately after purchase. When choosing a plant, consider its size. If it's small, the container should be smaller as well. If the roots remain around the soil for too long, they can begin to rot.
Using clay pots for growing cacti has both advantages and disadvantages. Their main characteristic is the porous nature of their walls. Consequently, moisture evaporates quickly. This process is also affected by ambient humidity and light levels.
When water evaporates, especially if it's hard, a white, lime-rich coating forms on the pot's walls. This leads to alkalization of the soil and subsequent death of the root system. This problem is easily solved by using settled water.
In addition to clay pots, plastic planters are also widely used for growing cacti. Their advantage is the smooth walls, making them easy to clean and prepare for reuse. Evaporation through the walls is completely eliminated. However, for inexperienced gardeners, this advantage can easily become a disadvantage.
When watering plants in plastic containers, you need only one-third of the amount of water as when using clay pots. Therefore, if you're inexperienced, it's easy to overwater the soil, which will cause root rot.
Plastic pots pose a high risk of sunburn to the roots. Furthermore, exposure to sunlight can cause the container to deteriorate more quickly.
Transplanting adult cacti
This procedure is recommended only in the spring. However, it's important to first ensure that the plant has begun actively growing and that the current pot has become too small. A few days before repotting, stop watering, the most important part of indoor cactus care. This will help easily shake off the soil, removing it from the roots. The plant can be quite prickly, so wrap it in several layers of paper or cloth before removing it.
The new pot should be large enough for the roots to completely fill its interior surface. A layer of drainage should cover the bottom. Next comes a small amount of potting soil, the plant, and the remaining soil. The base of the stem should not be buried in the soil, otherwise it will rot.
For cacti, it's best to choose potting mixes that include leaf mold, river sand, peat, and charcoal. To avoid mixing errors, it's best to buy a ready-made mix.
The video shows the cactus repotting procedure in detail. This will help novice cactus growers avoid any problems.
You may be interested in:Problems in growing
The main difficulty inexperienced gardeners may encounter is poor plant growth. This can occur for a number of reasons:
- nutritional deficiencies;
- lack of light;
- using low temperature water for irrigation;
- frequent change of location;
- violation of transplant deadlines.
Cacti should also be protected from drafts.
Diseases and pests
Both novice and experienced cactus growers alike face the problem of pests and disease on their plants. Causes include:
- weakening of the plant;
- insufficient lighting;
- over- or under-watering;
- soil depletion;
- violation of temperature conditions.
Spider mites are among the most common pests found on cacti. They are easily identified by small webs on the stems and dry, brown spots. If action is not taken promptly, the plant cannot be saved.
To combat the pest, two types of chemicals are used: contact and systemic. The choice depends on the phase of the tick's detection. Treatment is carried out either in the evening or on a cloudy day.
Another pest is the mealybug. Like mites, it sucks out the sap, gradually leading to the death of the plant. The most effective control method is spraying with a contact chemical. All nearby succulents should be treated.
The root mealybug is an insect no larger than 1-3 mm in size. It parasitizes the roots of cacti. Infestation can be indicated by slow growth and flowering. Control is easily achieved with contact chemicals.
Dry rot and wet rot are the most common diseases. They are caused by fungi.
The causes of wet rot are excessive and stagnant moisture. The risk is especially high during the cold season, as well as if repotting is not done correctly. The plant can be saved by trimming off the diseased root sections, then warming it in hot water, allowing it to dry, and repotting it in fresh, cultivated soil.
Prevention of root rot is the first spring and last watering before winter with a light pink solution of potassium permanganate.
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