How to store multiflora chrysanthemums at home during winter

Ball-shaped chrysanthemums are popular in landscape design, used to create borders for flower beds and complement various compositions, as well as to decorate paths. The plant can be considered unpretentious, but this only applies to warm seasons, as they are almost completely immune to low temperatures. As soon as the bushes begin to prepare for the dormant period, they require increased attention. Multiflora chrysanthemum: overwintering in open ground, how to cover, when to dig up, and how save the plant.

How to prepare chrysanthemums for winter

Any plant gains strength and actively replenishes nutrients before entering dormancy, and chrysanthemums are no exception. To help the flower withstand subzero temperatures, fertilizers are applied starting in early September. Potassium-phosphorus mixtures are ideal during the summer and fall, as they not only promote abundant flowering but also strengthen the immune system.

The second, no less important step is pruning. This procedure is performed as late as possible (after the first frosts have set in) to allow the sap from all the stems to drain into the roots, thus preventing the plant from becoming depleted. All dry, weakened, or damaged branches, as well as old shoots, should be removed, as there is a risk that they will rot later. The rot will spread to the remaining stems. Main shoots are shortened to 15 cm (miniature varieties to 10 cm), while new growth can be left as is.

From the first days of summer until the onset of autumn cold, closely monitor your bushes. At the slightest sign of disease or pests, immediately spray them with appropriate products. It's important not only to treat the chrysanthemum at a certain stage but also to prevent recurrence (by performing several preventative treatments).

Features of wintering multiflora

Without cover, the heat-loving chrysanthemum overwinters well only in the southern regions of Russia, where winters are short, snowy, and moderately cold. In the central zone, and especially in the north, bushes are usually dug up and optimal storage conditions are created. Many gardeners have learned to leave chrysanthemums in their original location even in colder regions; in this case, winter preparation should include providing reliable shelter.

Covering chrysanthemums for the winter

There are several ways to protect chrysanthemums in open ground. The principle behind their construction is very simple, but be careful, as any improper action can lead to frost damage. Even partial loss of stems and roots will take a long time for the plant to recover, which will negatively impact flowering and overall decorative value. Here's how to set up a shelter:

1. Place bricks on either side of the bush; if there are several chrysanthemums, stones can be laid in a row. Place a board on top of this support, completely covering the structure. Slate or metal can be used. Place a weight on top of the board to prevent it from being blown away by strong winds. This will prevent water from reaching the chrysanthemums, while also ensuring good ventilation from the sides.
2. Cover the bushes with spruce branches or dry branches, then sprinkle leaves on top (at least 15 cm thick). It's advisable to additionally cover the plant with polyethylene or spunbond.
3. In warm regions, bushes are hilled up high; it is important not to leave holes around the chrysanthemum where moisture can accumulate.
4. Some gardeners recommend covering flowers with wooden or plastic boxes, leaving a little space underneath for ventilation.

Covering the bushes should begin when moderately frosty weather sets in; earlier is not recommended, as the chrysanthemums may rot. Each time snow falls, a snowdrift is piled on top of the covered plants. A significant disadvantage of covering the flowers before winter is the inability to monitor their condition during the winter; the results will only be visible in the spring.

How to properly dig up chrysanthemums

When digging up bushes, avoid damaging the roots, otherwise there is a risk of developing various diseases. During storage, the plant will spend a lot of energy restoring its roots after spring planting, even if good care chrysanthemum will grow very slowly. In extreme cases, damage to the roots will lead to the death of the bush. To ensure everything goes smoothly, take the following precautions:

• the soil around the bushes must be watered generously so that the soil does not crumble when the plant is removed;
• there is no need to shake the soil off the roots; it is advisable to keep the entire lump in its original form;
• To remove excess moisture from the soil, the bushes should be left in the air for 1–2 days.

Only properly dug chrysanthemums will survive the winter well, no matter what storage method you choose. Carefully transport prepared bushes; it's best to lay them in a row or individually on sheets of plywood. If this isn't possible, support the plant by the stem and the root ball simultaneously to prevent soil from falling off. Buckets can also be used; in this case, stack the bushes and transport them one at a time.

How and where to store chrysanthemums

In colder regions, dug-up bushes are brought indoors, and in areas where the soil doesn't freeze too deeply and there's a lot of snow, the plants can be buried outdoors. Each gardener must decide for themselves how to store flowers during the winter. There's no point in trying to figure out which option is best; much depends not only on the regional climate but also on the feasibility of growing chrysanthemums indoors.

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Storage in a trench

A trench is dug in the selected area, ranging from 50 cm to a meter deep. The length depends on the number of bushes. The width of the trench should be no wider than a spade blade (20–30 cm). Chrysanthemums are placed at the bottom of the pit, as close together as possible; stacking them in two layers is acceptable. Fill any remaining space in the trench with very loose soil, cover the entire surface with spruce branches, and then top with leaves.

To protect the plant from waterlogging, place boards on the leaves and cover with roofing felt and plastic. Secure the edges of the plastic with pegs, stones, or soil. It's a good idea to pile leaves on top of the plastic, and when snow falls, create a deep snowdrift in this area. In the spring, during the first thaw, remove the covering gradually, layer by layer, thus protecting the plant from sudden temperature changes.

Storage in a pot

Chrysanthemum roots grow outward, so the container should also be wide; depth is not important, as long as the root ball is not exposed after repotting. To fill the empty space in the container, prepare loose soil; you can use garden soil mixed with perlite at a 1:1 ratio. To avoid overwatering, which is undesirable for the plant, be sure to make drainage holes in the bottom of the container and add a drainage layer (about 2 cm). Gravel, crushed rock, or expanded clay are suitable.

You can dig up and replant the bush while it's still blooming; it will bloom for a while on a windowsill or balcony. In this case, prune it 5 to 10 days after the buds fade. Store the trimmed bush in a cool, dark room with moderate humidity. If left in the light or warmth, the chrysanthemum will produce new shoots without going dormant, and by spring, the bush will be significantly weakened. Replant the plant in its original location as soon as the last frost has passed.

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Storage in a greenhouse

Chrysanthemums are transplanted into the greenhouse while still in bloom. Dig holes to the depth of the roots; do not plant the bushes too deeply. Prune when the stems begin to freeze; in these conditions, leave branches no taller than 4 cm. Cover the bushes with a generous layer of humus, then top with 20 to 25 cm of dry soil. Even slightly damp soil should not be used, as the bushes will quickly rot under such a cushion. Cover the soil with a heat-resistant, waterproof material.

This method is quite risky, as in spring you need to seize the moment to uncover the bushes, otherwise they will quickly rot under such cover. Multiflora should be dug up as soon as the greenhouse temperature reaches a stable above-zero level; after a couple of weeks, the plants can be transplanted back to their original location. In a heated greenhouse, where the temperature is always maintained between 0 and 5 degrees Celsius, there is no need to cover the chrysanthemums.

Storage in a cellar or basement

This is the simplest and most accessible method, popular among gardeners in the Moscow region, where heat-loving chrysanthemums don't overwinter naturally. The dug-up bushes are placed in boxes or on the floor (in a single row), close together. A layer of soil at least 5 cm thick is added to the bottom of the container or floor, and the roots are also covered with soil. It's important that the air in the basement or cellar isn't dry, as such conditions won't promote proper preservation of the flower. The room temperature shouldn't rise above 4 degrees Celsius or fall below 0 degrees Celsius.

The basement needs to be cleaned to remove fungus and mold, as well as insects and rodents. Once the bushes are moved to storage, there's no need for constant care. Once a month, you can inspect the stems; remove any moldy or rotten bushes from the basement, and treat the remaining ones with an antiseptic. If the roots of some plants are dry, mist them lightly with water. If the chrysanthemums begin to grow due to temperature fluctuations, ventilate the room.

Experience in storing Multiflora chrysanthemums in winter

Anastasia

Two years ago, I bought miniature spherical chrysanthemums. I didn't know how to preserve them over the winter and didn't take care of the bushes. My dacha is in the Moscow region, and in the spring, out of five bushes, only one survived, lasting until midsummer and then drying out. Last year, I dug up only the faded bushes, planted some in a greenhouse, covered them with humus and agrofibre, and moved the rest to the basement. The flowers overwintered well, but they didn't thrive. Now I understand my mistake – you shouldn't dig them up too early. This fall, I waited for a good frost.

Elena

I store my multiflora chrysanthemums in a trench; even in Siberia, this method works well. I don't cover them with leaves; I lay a layer of various melons from the garden on top of the spruce branches, then cover them with slate and plastic. I water the bushes well before digging them up. First, I dig up the sides of the chrysanthemum, then carefully lift it out along with a large lump of soil. I replant it immediately, but cover it a little later when the soil dries out. When we lived in the south, I covered the bushes with a wooden box with gaps, sprinkled a little leaves over them to keep out moisture, laid plastic, and in winter, covered them with snow.

Storing multiflora chrysanthemums over winter is not difficult, but it requires careful consideration. Choose the method that works best for you and follow our recommendations, and this heat-loving flower will delight you with abundant blooms every year. To determine which storage method is best for a particular region, try several at once; this will significantly increase the likelihood of success.