To determine the timing of tomato transplanting, it's important to use the lunar calendar, agricultural practices, and folk wisdom. This procedure involves dividing young shoots into individual containers and pinching out the lower portions of the roots.
This stimulates branching and strengthens the root system. A special wooden stick is used, similar to a spear. Not everyone uses such tools in modern gardening. Each month, the moon goes through certain phases, which include both favorable and unfavorable dates for our work.
We'll also talk about the process itself, but we'll go through everything in order, step by step, for beginners, so to speak...
Lunar calendar and favorable days
Pricking out helps:
- acceleration of root growth and development;
- acceleration of nutrient metabolism;
- increasing the volume of incoming light;
- distributing the sprouts so that they do not interfere with each other;
- ventilation of the root system.
No negative aspects were identified. The exception is situations where the procedure was performed in violation of breeders' rules and recommendations.
Favorable days in each month of the current year (waxing moon):
| Month | Date |
| February | 11-23 |
| March | 11-24 |
| April | 9-23 |
| May | 9-22 |
If for any reason it's impossible to complete the work on the days listed above, you can take advantage of a folk wisdom. Males engage in cultural activities on men's days of the week, such as Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday. Sunday is a day off, when it's best to do nothing at all.
There are periods when it is forbidden to work with plants:
- February: 10 and 24.
- March: 10 and 25.
- April: 8 and 24.
- May: 8 and 23.
These days will be the New Moon and the Full Moon. Under their influence, all seedlings touched by human hands will weaken and die.
The remaining dates that are not included in any of the tables are considered neutral.
Peculiarities
You can begin pricking out immediately after the seedlings have developed two true leaves. It's not recommended to do this any earlier, as the shoots are still weak. Late pricking out reduces the likelihood of survival in the new location and increases susceptibility to disease. There are a number of signs that can help you determine the seedlings' readiness for pricking out:
- The tomatoes have reached maturity. The seedlings have a well-developed root system and strong immunity.
- The planting is too dense. A sufficient distance between seedlings is 5 cm. Otherwise, growth and development will be slowed. Crowding will deprive the plant of adequate light and reduce its metabolic rate.
- Pulling out sproutsIf the tops are thin and the stems are weak, then pricking out is the only option. This usually happens when there's insufficient light.
- The seedlings have a stunted appearance. Crowded conditions negatively impact the health of the tomatoes. Thin stems, even if growing well, will not produce a proper harvest.
- There's a sign of disease. Blackleg is especially dangerous. It spreads very quickly and can destroy all the seedlings.
To avoid missing signs of disease, pest attacks, and other harmful effects, seedlings are inspected every day.
Classical method
Water the seedlings thoroughly the day before transplanting them into new containers. This increases the soil's pliability and softens it, reducing the risk of root damage. Only a small amount of water is needed. Use warm, settled water. Next, follow these steps:
- The cups are arranged in a row.
- Add prepared soil. It's best to use the kind sold in specialty stores.
- Using a spoon, create a reinforcement. It should correspond to the size of the root system.
- The seedlings are sorted into weak, sick and strong.
- A teaspoon handle is inserted next to the seedlings. It is used to pry up the root from the bottom.
- They pull out the root ball with the sprout, holding it by the leaves.
The transplant should be done carefully. This is how all plants are transplanted. Plants should be planted deep enough to reach the cotyledon leaflets. This will be beneficial. Firm the soil surface with your fingers. Water with a watering can, but a spray bottle is better. This prevents soil erosion, root slanting, or root curling at the bottom of the cup.
Transshipment
If the seeds were planted directly in individual cups, then transplanting is necessary to increase the soil volume. This will improve nutrition and accelerate development. This should be done immediately after roots appear above the soil surface. The soil will dry out quickly. Delaying transplanting can damage the seedlings.
Rules:
- The seedlings should be watered the day before work begins. On the day of work, larger containers and industrially treated soil are prepared.
- To make it easier to remove the tomatoes, press down on the sides of the cups. This will loosen the soil from the edges.
- Add soil to the new pot. Make sure the seedlings are planted deep enough to reach the cotyledon leaf.
- The root ball is pulled out and wrapped around the roots. It should not be disturbed during replanting.
- Using a shovel, add soil to the sides of the container. Tap the sides periodically to distribute the soil evenly throughout the container.
Finally, watering is necessary. For the first two days, the seedlings should be shaded from the sun. This will prevent sunburn on the young leaves.
Planting in a diaper
The method is unique. It's called "in a snail." Growing the seedlings requires subsequent transplanting. This can significantly save space for the seedlings and soil. There's not enough soil for normal development in a snail. Therefore, it's important to adhere to the transplanting schedule. Otherwise, all the seedlings will perish.
The work is carried out as follows:
- First, soak the seeds in a damp cloth. Place it in a warm room for 2-3 days. Then unwrap them. Don't expose all the rudiments at once, as this will cause them to dry out.
- Pour a little soil into the central part of the bag and moisten it slightly using a spray bottle.
- Separation is carried out one by one. The root system requires careful handling.
- Young sprouts are placed on a mound of soil, and if the root is long, it is carefully bent, but not broken.
- Use your hands to rake the soil up so that it completely covers the seedling. If it looks like it's overly covered, don't worry.
- The prepared diaper is rolled into a roll without turning the bottom.
- Once all the seeds have been distributed, the diaper is placed vertically in a container containing sawdust.
The method has been repeatedly tested by gardeners and receives positive feedback.
Into the greenhouse
It's best to transplant tomatoes twice. The first time, transfer them from the box to cups. The second time, transfer them from the cups to the greenhouse. Initially, choose containers with a capacity of 0.3-0.5 liters. When replanting, after 1-1.5 months, prepare the beds. The second time, avoid touching the taproot and disturbing the root ball. This will damage the roots. Plants are moved to the greenhouse only when the soil has warmed to at least 20 cm, warm weather has set in, and the seedlings have become strong. Before planting, harden them off for 1-2 weeks.
The calendar is the same, but the methods may be different.
- The tops of overgrown seedlings are trimmed. They need to be rooted in water and replanted in a cup with soil.
- The remaining stumps will eventually produce new shoots. Once the shoots reach 3 cm in length, pinch off their tops. These can be grown into compact, squat bushes.
The method is labor-intensive but effective. A single seed can produce several strong, healthy seedlings.
Aftercare
Growing seedlings requires careful care before and after transplanting. The procedures described below should be performed regularly. It's important to provide good lighting, water thoroughly, fertilize, and maintain an optimal temperature.
After the tomatoes have been transplanted into new individual containers, additional lighting is necessary. They lack natural light. Lighting is turned on in the morning and evening. During the day, it's necessary if the weather is cloudy, as well as in north-facing windows. The pots are constantly turned toward the light.
Strong seedlings will grow indoors where the air temperature is:
- during the day within +18+22°С;
- at night at 14-16°C.
If the room is too warm, the seedlings will stretch and bloom prematurely. A fresh air supply is essential. This is achieved through a micro-ventilation system installed on plastic windows. After transplanting, it's best to keep the tomatoes in a cool place. Watering should be moderate. Keep the soil slightly moist, gradually watering the surface only after it dries. Overwatering will cause the seedlings to stretch.
While the seedlings are establishing themselves in the soil, do not fertilize them. This will burn the roots and kill them. The first fertilizer application is done 1.5-2 weeks after transplanting. If the seedlings are planted in high-quality soil, this procedure is completely eliminated. A complex fertilizer designed for seedlings is acceptable. These are available commercially in large quantities. After that, the plants should be fed every 10 days.
If young gardeners don't follow the lunar schedule, they can run into serious problems. For example, seedlings die, weaken, and wilt. Here are a few common mistakes:
- Overwatering during the first 24 hours after transplanting leads to root rot. The plant hasn't had time to establish roots and is unable to absorb the incoming moisture. The problem will be exacerbated by maintaining low temperatures. Watering should be gentle, sparingly, and only after the top layer of soil has dried.
- Damage to the root system during transplantation. During the initial stages of growth and development, roots are weak, fragile, and sensitive. To prevent damage, thoroughly moisten the soil before transplanting. Exercise caution when transplanting. A clod of soil should be included along with the root.
- Root bending. This happens if the new hole is made too small during transplantation. It's important to measure the root system's volume against the depth of the container and hole. Before planting, compact the soil to ensure proper root contact.

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