One article covers planting pepper seeds for seedlings in the regions of Central Russia.

Pepper planting dates for seedlings in central Russia vary greatly due to the climate of individual regions and the ripening time of selected species and varieties. When consulting weather forecasts and information on seed packaging, vegetable growers should also consider the lunar calendar, in this case for 2024. A table of favorable and unfavorable days has been compiled based on the phases of the moon.

Agroclimatic features of the Central Belt

The region is characterized by a temperate continental climate with warm summers and cold winters, without severe frosts or sudden temperature fluctuations. Seasonality is pronounced here. Since the term is not strictly defined, the term "temperate zone" can refer to various regions with distinct agroclimatic conditions. However, there are also common characteristics that lead them to be grouped together as a single region.

The region's average monthly temperature in the warmest month, July, is 16-18°C, while the coldest month, January, is -10°C. Precipitation is within normal limits, placing the region in the moderate humidity zone. The topography is flat. Soils range from fertile (loam, chernozem) to less fertile (sod-podzolic). The latter require fertilization to maintain a healthy composition.

Suitable varieties

When cultivating peppers in the region's climate, including the Moscow region, consider their characteristic long springs and short summers. To ensure a bountiful harvest of ripe fruit, early-ripening varieties with high cold tolerance are preferred. Since some varieties, even with these characteristics, may not thrive in temperate climates, it's best to select varieties specifically grown in these regions.

Asti

A cold-hardy variety approved for cultivation throughout Russia, including Siberia. The bushes are low-growing, reaching a maximum height of 75 cm. This variety is considered an early-ripening pepper with a growing season of 100 days. It is suitable for growing from seedlings. At biological maturity, when the vegetables turn yellow, the fruits weigh 250-270 g with a wall thickness of 1 cm.

Antiques

A high-yielding semi-determinate vegetable variety with early ripening. It enters the flowering phase just 70 days after germination. Technical maturity occurs on the 105th day, and biological maturity, when the fruits turn red, occurs on the 150th day. The bushes are medium-sized, reaching a height of up to 1.2 m, with medium foliage. This variety is characterized by long fruiting and stable yields. It is resistant to tobacco mosaic virus.

Boyarin

Standard bushes do not exceed half a meter in height. At biological maturity, which occurs 140 days after germination, the red fruits weigh between 90 and 160 g. Rich in carotene and vitamin C, they are suitable for stuffing. The walls are approximately 8 mm thick. This product of Siberian breeders is grown exclusively from seedlings.

Vesuvius

Vigorous plants, approximately 80 cm tall, with strong shoots. This variety is characterized by good fruit production and is tolerant of many specialized diseases. Large fruits have fleshy walls (7-8 mm), allowing a single specimen to weigh up to 200 g. As they reach biological maturity, the fruits turn from green to a deep red. They are suitable for fresh consumption and for preserves.

Blondie F1

The hybrid features medium-sized bushes with short internodes. The cube-shaped fruits, which ripen early (60 days after transplanting the seedlings into open ground), have thick walls. A commercial specimen weighs 190 g. The hybrid is valued for its tolerance to the following:

• temperature changes;
• fungal diseases;
• increased soil acidity.

"The Good Man"

Even in open ground without plastic cover, the peppers develop quickly—the first harvest is already 90 days after sprouting. The medium-sized bush with moderate branching reaches 80 cm in height. The spherical fruits turn red as they ripen. The taste is completely free of bitter notes, making this variety versatile.

Annushka

A promising sweet bell pepper. At biological maturity, the peppers turn yellow. This variety is adapted to temperate climates. However, due to its drought and heat tolerance, it is often grown in southern regions with low rainfall and longer summers. The walls are medium thick. Fruit weight is 130 g. Yield is 10 kg/m².

Emelya

According to vegetable growers, this is one of the best varieties for temperate climates. Plants grow no taller than 70 cm. Since harvesting begins 100 days after germination, the variety is considered early-ripening. Although the fruit walls are thin, they are very juicy. Each specimen weighs 120 g. Its versatility makes "Emelya" popular for both home-grown and commercial production for sale or processing.

Cardinal F1

An ultra-early hybrid, harvesting begins at technical maturity as early as 90 days after germination. The rot-resistant bushes reach no more than 60 cm in height. The onset of biological maturity is indicated by the purple color of the cube-shaped fruits, weighing up to 320 g. The sweet, fleshy walls have a slight bitterness.

Deadlines

Planting seeds according to the lunar calendar should be consistent with the region's weather conditions. Additionally, consider the varietal characteristics and manufacturer recommendations, as indicated on the seed packaging.

By the Moon

The influence of the Moon, Earth's natural satellite, is an indisputable, scientifically proven fact. But the celestial body's impact extends beyond natural phenomena and humankind to vegetation.

Here, both the phases and the zodiac signs are already taken into account, you have nothing to worry about, everything is 100% verified.

Here are the unfavorable dates:

• February: 9-11, 23-25;
• March: 9-11, 24-26;
• April: 7-9, 23-25.

Influence of varieties

Breeders' varieties are divided into three groups based on ripening time: early, mid-season, and late. Seedlings are planted in the beds at different ages, depending on the variety. Early varieties are pricked out when they are 55-65 days old, mid-season varieties at 65-70 days, and late varieties at 70-80 days. For a more accurate calculation, start from the date when the seedlings should be planted in the beds. Then subtract the following number of days:

• emergence of seedlings - 5-10;
• adaptation after picking - about 7-10;
• The standard age of seedlings at which they can be planted in a permanent place is 55-70.

Unfavorable dates

Earth's natural satellite has more than just a positive influence on the growth of flora. There are phases of the celestial body during which sowing and planting are prohibited. During the new and full moons, vegetable crops are susceptible to disease, are easily damaged, and damaged areas take a long time to recover, so seeds may simply fail to germinate.

Seedlings are also vulnerable during these stages. After transplanting, seedlings require more time to recover. To ensure an abundance of high-quality, nutrient-rich fruits, it's best to avoid any sowing or transplanting during the wrong dates, as outlined below.

All other days are neutral.

Features of forcing

Growing seedlings has its own nuances. To ensure the potential yield doesn't decline, the plants must be strong by the time they're planted in the garden. Avoid sudden temperature fluctuations, mistakes during thinning, and intermediate transplanting into individual pots. If proper cultivation practices aren't followed, the seedling stems will become coarse and their immune system will weaken.

Preparing soil and seeds

To ensure uniform germination, it's essential to use viable seedlings. First, inspect the seeds. Remove any shriveled or damaged ones. Healthy seeds are treated with a fungicide solution for disinfection by placing them in a cloth bag and soaking them in water with a seed dressing. If a seed dressing isn't available, use a solution of potassium permanganate. The treatment time is 20-30 minutes.

Afterwards, the seeds are washed without removing them from the cloth. To improve germination, the seeds can be soaked for 12 hours in a solution of Epin. Prepare a working solution of 1-2 drops of the solution per 100 ml. After treatment, the seeds are distributed between two layers of damp, clean cloth, covered to prevent rapid evaporation, and placed in a warm place at 25°C. After a week or two, sprouts will appear.

While waiting for germination, prepare the seeding substrate. If using a ready-made, all-purpose soil mix, add coarse river sand before use to improve drainage. The ratio is 3:1/2. Experienced vegetable growers prefer to prepare the substrate themselves. They combine humus, peat, and washed sand in a ratio of 2:2:1.

Sowing and care

In late winter or early spring, when the optimal time has arrived, begin planting the seeds. Here's the sequence of steps:

1. The seedling container is washed with a solution of potassium permanganate, filled with the prepared soil mixture and lightly compacted so that the soil level does not reach the edge - 2 cm.
2. Using tweezers, spread the hatched seeds out at a distance of 1.5-2 cm. Avoid spacing them too close together, as overcrowding will result in insufficient light for all the seedlings and cause them to stretch.
3. The seed material is sprinkled with soil on top (a layer of 1-1.5 cm) and compacted slightly.
4. Carefully irrigate the crops, ensuring that the seeds are not washed onto the surface of the substrate.
5. The container is placed under film, which prevents rapid evaporation of moisture, creating a greenhouse effect.

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When the seedlings appear (usually this happens on the 55-7th day after sowing the sprouted seeds), the container is transferred to a light windowsill in a room where the temperature is 15-17 °C. Watering the seedlings As the surface layer dries, keep the substrate constantly moist but prevent stagnant liquid from forming in the tray. Use warm, settled water.

To minimize the risk of root rot, transplant seedlings when they have two true leaves. This stage of development occurs in the third or fourth week of seedling development, counting from the moment the first shoots appear. Transplant seedlings without burying them. If they stretch significantly, transplant them no more than 5 mm deep. Before transplanting, water the substrate in the seedling container and allow the excess liquid to drain into the tray.

Small containers are chosen for repotting, as the plant is characterized by slow growth. In 150 ml cups, the plant settles into the soil more quickly—the soil doesn't turn sour when watered, and the roots are less susceptible to rot.

Step-by-step instructions:

1. The seedlings are taken by the “ears” so as not to damage the stem.
2. The hole in the cup is made larger in size than the root system of the plant.
3. Place the seedling with straightened roots.
4. Sprinkle with soil and compact slightly.
5. Carefully moisten, holding the seedling until the water is completely absorbed.
6. If the soil has settled too much after watering, add some soil mixture.
7. The seedlings are placed on the windowsill, shading them from direct sunlight for the first time.
8. Make sure that the soil in the pots does not cool down too much (at least 15°C).

Disease prevention

To protect seedlings from pathogens, it's essential to adhere to proper agricultural practices. Before sowing, the soil must be disinfected, as must the seeds, which may harbor the infection—especially if they were grown home-grown. It's important to avoid overwatering and temperature fluctuations, which can lead to the development of root rot and blackleg.

Helpful tips

To maximize yield potential, avoid allowing shoots to become hard. If the stems of seedlings are allowed to become woody, they will begin to grow less thickly (and may begin to crack with continued heavy irrigation). Such plants will be unable to adequately nourish the ovary, and the yield will be significantly lower than potential.

Since vegetable crops aren't particularly immune to root rot, transplanting seedlings into individual containers isn't quite the same as transplanting tomatoes, for example. When transplanting at the two-true-leaf stage, peppers shouldn't be planted deep enough to the cotyledons. Otherwise, there's a high risk of stunting the plant, prolonged illness, and even death from a fungal infection.