When to open grapes after winter

All grape varieties are sensitive to low temperatures, especially during budding. Even frost-hardy varieties can be damaged if opened and budded too early or improperly. This is especially true for all covered varieties. When planning spring work with this crop, it's important to consider weather conditions, forecasts, and recommendations for each region.

Opening date

There's no specific timeframe for completing this procedure. For beginners, experts recommend mid- to late March-mid-April. During this period, it's important to be especially attentive to the weather, have time to inspect shelters, and plan all work for a smooth awakening.

Weather conditions

Weather is the most important factor to consider. Air temperature, humidity, precipitation forecasts, and fluctuations in nighttime and daytime temperatures are all important. The first stage of reopening is snow removal. This should begin before the snow melts, but when daily temperatures rise above minus 5 degrees Celsius. In most regions of Russia, this is mid-March, in southern regions, early March, and in northern latitudes, early May.

The plants are fully uncovered when the average daily temperature reaches 10 degrees Celsius and does not drop below that. The condition of other plants can serve as a guide. At this time, buds begin to swell on the trees. The soil has already dried out well and warmed up slightly, and the vines begin to emerge on their own.

In some regions, especially Siberia and the Far East, such weather conditions are rare in spring. Therefore, in these areas, it's best to aim for temperatures of 2 degrees Celsius. Frost-hardy vines can even withstand night frosts down to -5 degrees Celsius when exposed to the elements.

If the spring weather isn't warm, there's no need to rush to uncover the vines. You can use closed ventilation to gradually awaken the vines. Make fairly large holes in the vine cover every 5-7 centimeters. Air and even sunlight will penetrate through them, and the vines will gradually acclimate to the temperatures. You can check the vines' condition without fully uncovering them. If the buds have swollen, it's okay to leave the vines covered. However, if germination has begun, even weakly, it's time to remove the winter cover.

Deadlines for regions

Amateurs and beginners can determine the timing for a specific region by contacting local schools on grape growing and cultivation. This is especially important in so-called "risky farming" zones. You can also use a table that corresponds to average climate norms. For Russia, it looks like this:

In the climate of Ukraine, which is characterized by an earlier spring, abundant seasonal precipitation, and generally favorable conditions for early awakening, such a table is as follows:

All regions of Belarus offer challenging conditions for grape growers. Although springs are typically warm, snow melts late, the soil dries slowly, and night frosts remain a threat for most plants for a long time. In all regions of the country, early and early varieties are recommended for planting. They should be opened between mid-April and mid-May. In this case, it's best to focus on the variety and specific weather conditions, so the recommendations are the same for each region.

Why timing is important

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Some novice grape growers may mistakenly believe that opening the vines late is the right decision. This will certainly protect the grapes from freezing, but it can also lead to a sharp decline in yield. Therefore, it's important to time the opening correctly and open the vines on time.

The main danger is freezing. Buds die before shoots. Most varieties are capable of regenerating vines from frozen formations, spare shoots, and lateral shoots. However, fruiting from such branches is rare. If a vine is frozen due to early opening, it will likely not bear fruit at all, not only for the first year but also for the following year.

Late opening may lead to consequences such as:

• breaking off shoots;
• bud rot;
• development of fungal diseases.

Condensation forms under the film, which is often used for covering, when heated by the sun. Mold and mildew quickly develop in such an environment. The contrast between the temperature of the cold soil and the warm air already rising from the surface is also detrimental to grapes.

If the buds have not only swollen but also sprouted, they will be very difficult to preserve when uncovering and tying. More than half of them usually die during further work. The yield of each bush decreases by the same amount.

Methods of shelter

To open live grapes in spring With slightly swollen buds, it's important to choose the right covering method. This depends on the region, variety, and the owner's capabilities. There are three main techniques:

• full cover;
• partial insulation;
• digging in with soil.

Covering roots and trunks with soil is suitable for southern and warm regions and is acceptable for zoned frost-hardy plant species. It is especially common on young bushes that need to be hardened off and selected for their viability. The advantage of this method is its extreme simplicity. Simply shake the soil off the branches and gradually straighten them to the desired height. This should be done until the soil is completely dry to prevent breakage of the young vines.

Semi-covering is typical for the Central Russian region and temperate climates. The roots are earthed up, the vines and trunks are placed in special insulated "sleeves," and everything is covered with a thin layer of protective material. In the spring, the upper sleeves are removed first and the branches are exposed. After two or three days, the rest of the plant is uncovered. The soil beneath the vines is immediately covered with geotextile to enhance warming and speed up the awakening process.

Complete cover This method can also be used in the Central Russian region for southern heat-loving varieties, but it is more practical in the North, Siberia, and the Far East. Branches are carefully laid on a plank base, then covered with natural insulation, and finally wrapped in geotextile for protection. The top layer is film or roofing felt. The uncovering is carried out in several stages, spaced 3-4 days apart. After the final layer of insulation is removed, a temporary greenhouse or hothouse is constructed.

When fully covered, consider hardening off the grapes, especially young plants. In the first few days after budding, buds and shoots are vulnerable not only to frost but also to prolonged exposure to direct sunlight. After installing the temporary shelter, it should be opened periodically to allow the plant to acclimate to the light, wind, and temperature. The first "session" should last no more than 15 minutes; subsequently, the time can be doubled. Hardening off in the shade is not recommended, as the vines may later suffer sunburn, especially in May, when direct sunlight is extremely dangerous for the delicate young leaves.

Spring work

In spring, the first steps in caring for newly awakened grapes should be aimed at protecting them from recurring frosts. Therefore, during this period, the plant is not watered, even if the soil is relatively dry and there has been very little snow. The less moisture in the soil, the better the roots' chances of surviving the colder temperatures.

The first stage of cultivation is staking. This is done after the vines have dried out. In this state, they are more flexible and less brittle, so the bush can be shaped into the desired form. The vines that produce the most fruit are placed on the lower tiers. Avoid raising them too high to avoid them being pulled down by their own weight; the optimal height is 30-50 centimeters, depending on the vigor of the variety and the age of the bush. During the first staking, an inspection is performed, removing any dead branches. This is done to determine whether or not to tie them up. cut off a branch, you can make control cuts at a distance of 1 centimeter from each other. If the core is not black or brown, the branch should be left. The first the garter is performed Only horizontally. Then, approximately in mid-May in the south and mid-June in the north, a second round of bush shaping is carried out. All new shoots are distributed along trellises.

Immediately after lifting from the ground, the soil should be thoroughly loosened. Pay particular attention to the presence of mold, which may have appeared when covering the grapes with plastic. The soil should be immediately treated with special antifungal agents before the disease spreads to the plant. The grapes themselves, after tying. spray copper sulfate solution: dissolve 300 grams of dry substance in 10 liters of lukewarm water.

Fertilizer can be applied to the roots immediately after uncovering. This is avoided if you want to delay bud break due to a forecast of frost. If the forecast is favorable, you can apply either ready-made mixtures, such as "Agrolife," or homemade fertilizers. A suitable ratio for the first application is 5 parts nitrogen-containing compounds, 4 parts phosphates, and 3 parts potassium compounds.

Reviews

Ilya

I grow grapes in the Urals For seven years now. I use only full cover and consistently uncover the vines in late April. First, I make ventilation holes, very small ones, then after a couple of days I widen them, and then I begin uncovering the plastic. I recommend doing this early in the morning, when the sun is bright but not too strong. I do this even with young plants; the losses are very small, but it's essential.

Veronica

We grow grapes for ourselves and a little for sale in Krasnodar. We always open the vineyards early, in early March. If frost is forecast, we treat them with ferrous sulfate, making a weak solution. This both inhibits bud growth and protects against disease. We always try to open the vineyards early, so the buds are very small and the soil is still wet; it dries out quickly here.

Opening grapes is the first stage of the growing season. Timing this correctly is crucial both in northern regions, where late frosts are likely, and in southern regions, where high daytime temperatures often coincide with low nighttime temperatures. Using standard timings, as well as recommendations for a specific variety, you can not only determine the correct opening time but also the best schedule for subsequent cultivation. This will ensure strong plants with a large number of buds and fruiting shoots.