Pricking out tomatoes is one of the key stages of growing this crop. This is the process of transplanting young seedlings from a common container into individual pots or beds. The right timing for pricking out can significantly impact the future harvest.
According tolunar calendarIn April 2024, you should pay attention to the following days:
- April 3-4:This is an excellent time to control weeds, blackberries, poison ivy, and other plant pests. These are also favorable days for transplanting tomatoes.
Remember that each region has its own characteristics, and recommendations may vary slightly. Follow the lunar calendar and consider the climate in your area to ensure successful tomato growing in April.
Necessity of the procedure
As a rule, tomatoes are sown for seedlings into large trays to produce several dozen, or even hundreds, of seedlings at once. Rapid growth leads to the green mass beginning to interfere and shade each other. Under such conditions, seedlings may slow down in development or, conversely, stretch excessively toward the light. Those involved growing seedlings, they carry out picking (transshipment) several times as the crop grows.
Advantages
Gardeners' opinions on the necessity of this procedure are divided between those in favor and those against. Those in favor of replanting believe it's simply unavoidable. Their opinion is based on the positive aspects of replanting:
- Saving space on your windowsill. Seedlings planned for spring gardening will fit compactly into one or two containers.
- Refreshing the nutrient substrate and increasing the container's volume for better root growth. During repotting, the soil is completely or partially replaced, and larger individual containers promote rapid plant development.
- Increased nutrient uptake. A more developed root system more effectively absorbs beneficial micronutrients from the soil.
- Postponing seedling planting outdoors until a later date. It's difficult to transplant seedlings without damaging the delicate root shoots. Initially, after this procedure, the plant will spend its energy recovering, and the green topsoil will temporarily stop developing.
Flaws
Opponents of transplantation are skeptical about the procedure, citing that the disadvantages outweigh the benefits. Disadvantages of transplantation:
- High labor intensity. Vegetable growers spend a lot of time and effort replanting plants into new containers.
- Increased financial costs. In addition to purchasing a large planting container, you need to prepare numerous small cups, as well as the nutrient medium to fill them.
- High risk of disease. Damage to the roots facilitates infection in the fresh wounds.
Suitable days according to the Moon
Pricking out tomatoes according to the lunar calendar involves performing the procedure on favorable days. These are determined by the relative positions of the Earth's satellite and the planet itself. It's best to plant seedlings during the waxing moon. During this time, the sap moves from the roots to the stem. However, if the seedlings have become excessively stretched, it's best to transplant them during the waning moon.
In addition to the moon's phase, the moon's position relative to the zodiac constellations is also considered. The latter are conventionally divided into "fertile" and "barren." Therefore, astrologers recommend planning agricultural work based on the specific zodiac sign and the characteristics of the variety. Thus, the following are considered "fertile": Taurus, Cancer, Scorpio, Libra, Capricorn, and Pisces. For the gardener's convenience, suitable days for transplanting are listed in the table:
| Month | Numbers |
|
April |
3, 4 |
Pricking out tomatoes
Growing tomato seedlings requires certain skills in transplanting. Tomatoes are transplanted 7-10 days after germination. To ensure the plants survive the transplant, maintain a room temperature of 20 to 22°C. At night, the temperature can be slightly cooler – 16-18°C. If daylight hours are shorter than 14 hours or the weather is cloudy, provide supplemental lighting.
Soil requirements
Tomatoes are no less demanding of soil composition than other garden crops. They can grow in a variety of soils, but only if they have the required amount of nutrients. Low-fertility soils require generous additions of organic fertilizers. The pH should be between 5.5 and 6.0. During growth, tomatoes remove large amounts of mineral microelements from the soil, which must be replenished several times throughout the growing season.
Today, ready-made potting soil for seedlings can be purchased at garden centers. It will contain all the nutrients necessary for plant growth. However, if the manufacturer improperly prepares the product, gardeners using such a mixture may experience problems with plant development. An excess or deficiency of beneficial elements will cause stunted growth or disease.
https://youtu.be/FbSfBarnLrw
Those who oppose the use of ready-made substrates prepare their own nutrient mixture. The soil is prepared in the fall. The prepared material is placed in seedling trays and stored in a basement or unheated pantry. A few days before sowing, the containers are placed in a warm place to allow the contents to warm to room temperature. If the same trays are used year after year, they are disinfected with boiling water before filling.
There are no uniform requirements for preparing a soil mixture. Its composition depends on the growing region. The substrate is prepared as follows:
- Two buckets of turf soil are poured onto a plastic sheet. It's best to collect the turf soil from the edge or clearing of a deciduous forest.
- Add half a bucket of compost. If the mixture is too sticky or clayey, add sand. Lime is added to acidic soil to lower the pH.
- Apply mineral fertilizers according to the manufacturer's recommendations.
- The soil mass is thoroughly mixed and scattered into trays.
Methods
Tomato seedlings grow quickly – two weeks after germination, gardeners begin transplanting. Regardless of the method used to force the seedlings, gardeners should consider the following when performing the procedure:
- Plant fragility. A newly formed seedling has a single, thin root shoot, damage to which will significantly slow the plant's growth.
- Sowing Timing: If you delay transplanting into separate trays, the extensive root systems of closely spaced seedlings will prevent removal.
Classical
A commonly used method for forcing seedlings among gardeners. The seeds are placed in a single container near a window on a windowsill or other convenient support. During transplanting, the plants are carefully lifted from the container using a fork or dessert spoon. The seedlings are planted in individual containers, such as plastic trays or cups with drainage holes.
snail
A convenient way to grow seedlings For beginning gardeners. This method minimizes damage to the root system. The essence of the method:
- A thin layer of soil mixture is spread on a narrow strip of fabric.
- The seeds are planted evenly, at intervals of 2-3 cm.
- Cover the “bed” with the same piece of fabric or fold the free edge.
- The resulting “pie” is rolled into a snail shape.
- When the seedlings sprout, they are transplanted into separate trays.
"In a diaper"
When preparing tomato seedlings for growing in a city apartment or garden, the "swaddling" method is used. The seedlings are removed from their common container and wrapped in plastic. Rectangles of plastic measuring 10 x 15 cm are prepared for this purpose. Wrapping the seedlings in bags is similar to swaddling, hence the name. The rolled-up envelopes are secured with tape or rubber bands.
Into the greenhouse
If you have a heated greenhouse in your garden, you can transplant the seedlings directly into it. In colder regions, tomatoes are transplanted only in May. In warmer areas, seedlings can be forced year-round, provided artificial lighting is available. To improve growth, bed heating and a biofuel made from manure, straw, or a wood mixture are used. The heating mass is placed under a layer of fertile soil. Tomato seedlings grown in a greenhouse grow strong and healthy. The seedlings have a well-developed root system, and there will be no problem with the sprouts growing.
Care
Simply transplanting seedlings from a common tray into individual containers isn't enough. After transplanting, tomatoes require additional care. To ensure proper formation, vigorous growth, and disease-free growth, they need supplemental lighting (if natural light is insufficient), and the soil is loosened and moistened regularly. Vegetable plants also require disease control treatments and periodic fertilization.
Watering
During the period of intensive growth after transplanting, tomatoes require regular and consistent watering. However, the intensity of watering depends on the weather outside. If it's sunny outside, water the "beds" on the windowsill daily. If it's cloudy, rainy, and humid, water the soil less frequently—once every few days. Use water at room temperature, previously settled and free of chlorine.
To prevent soil salinization, water the plants occasionally until water runs out of the drainage holes. If growth needs to be curbed before planting, due to poor weather conditions or the inability to get to the garden plot at the right time, watering should be stopped briefly. However, this should be done no earlier than two weeks before planting and very carefully, with constant monitoring of the plants' condition.
Loosening
The soil under the seedlings must be loose. Compacted soil prevents oxygen from reaching the root system, as well as the micronutrients needed for proper vegetable development. Furthermore, plant growth is impaired in dense soil. Loosening is carried out after each watering, when the growing medium has dried out slightly. The depth of cultivation depends on the degree of root development.
Top dressing and fertilization
Although the nutrient substrate is intended provide tomatoes with the necessary elements During periods of intensive growth, their concentration may not be sufficient before transplanting the seedlings into open ground. If the plants require additional nutrition, they will "tell" the gardener exactly what they need. Pale green leaves with bright veins indicate an iron deficiency. A purple tint to the green foliage can indicate a phosphorus deficiency. If the seedlings begin to wilt, they may be deficient in nitrogen (although this could also be due to insufficient sunlight or unsuitable temperatures).
Protection from pests and diseases
Beginning vegetable gardeners mistakenly believe that seedlings grown indoors are immune to disease and pest attacks. However, this isn't entirely true. The risk of blackleg or pest infestation always remains. To prevent seedlings from becoming damaged, gardeners carry out preventative treatments against pests and diseases.
A few hours after transplanting, the seedlings are sprayed with diluted Epin. To combat fungal infections, the plants are treated with potassium iodide. The first treatment is performed before transplanting, and the second two weeks later. To protect against pests, the seedlings and soil are treated with Fitoverm, diluting one ampoule of the product per half a liter of water.
Advice from the pros
By following the advice of experienced vegetable growers, novice gardeners can avoid most mistakes when transplanting tomatoes. First and foremost, consider providing supplemental lighting for the seedlings. Too little daylight or cloudy weather negatively impacts plant development. Not all lamps are suitable for this purpose. It's best to choose fluorescent or LED light sources. Incandescent lamps won't provide the desired effect.
In addition to supplemental lighting, it's important to adhere to basic agricultural practices. Professionals advise:
- Discard defective seedlings. When transplanting, avoid sparing underdeveloped plants with visible defects. To obtain the necessary planting material after culling, sow a larger quantity of seeds initially.
- Don't pinch the central root too much. If the gardener does this, don't shorten the shoot by more than a third. Excessive pruning will slow growth for at least 10 days.
- Select the optimal tray size. The plant should be comfortable in its new location after transplanting. For tomatoes, use containers with a minimum capacity of 0.5 liters.
- Don't rush fertilizing. Fertilizing too early can burn the roots of plants that haven't had time to adapt.
At first glance, the transplanting process may seem complicated. However, experience is gained quickly. The main thing is to follow the rules and pay attention to the transplanting calendar. This way, you can count on healthy plants and a bountiful harvest.

Fertilizing tomatoes with salt
How to fertilize vegetable seedlings with regular iodine
When and how to sow tomato seedlings in March 2024 – simple and accessible for beginners
Catalog of black tomato varieties
Alexander Dachny
I don't usually transplant tomatoes. I fill a container with water and sprinkle tomato seeds in it. I place the container in a warm place. Then I watch the seeds sprout in the water. As soon as they sprout, I plant them in a container, one for each seedling, from which I will later transplant them into the garden bed.
Sometimes, it's necessary to transplant, and not just tomatoes, but many other things as well. I don't pry the seedlings where they're growing tightly in the container, but rather wash away the soil, resulting in plants with mostly completely undamaged roots. When transplanted into the ground, the plants are virtually disease-free and grow quickly.
Sometimes seeds don't sprout in water, not just tomato seeds. Then I plant them in a common container and wait for the sprouts to appear. I immediately transplant them, lift out the soil along with the plant, and plant them directly in a separate container, from which I will transplant them into the garden bed.
To reduce the stretching of tomatoes, I plant them in plastic milk cartons. At first, I fold them under like pants to reduce their depth, add a little soil, and plant the sprouted seed in it. Then, as the tomatoes grow, I unfold the bag and add more soil. When planting in a garden bed, I simply cut the bag open and remove it, and place the plant in the prepared hole.